(Topic ID: 86826)

Attack from Mars [AFM] - martians club


By OlDirty

5 years ago



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  • 632 posts
  • 171 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by hlaj78
  • Topic is favorited by 106 Pinsiders

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There are 632 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 13.
#601 46 days ago

F105 is blowing and the manual says that is for 5V logic. However, all of my results are showing up with people talking about coils being powered with that fuse. What's the deal?

#602 45 days ago
Quoted from desertT1:

F105 is blowing and the manual says that is for 5V logic. However, all of my results are showing up with people talking about coils being powered with that fuse. What's the deal?

F105 is the +5V in the schematic for WPC 95. For the WPC driver board F105 is high power solenoids according to the schematic. Check if your search is coming up with games prior to Congo which is the first to use the WPC 95 driver board.

It looks like F105 goes through D7-D10 Then C9 then Q1 etc until leaving the board at J101, J138, J139, J140, and J141

Pull those connectors and replace the fuse. If the fuse blows again the problem in on the driver board start with testing D7-10 and working towards those connectors J101 etc.

Good luck

F105 (resized).PNG
#603 44 days ago

So I finally got around to installing chrome saucers, looks awesome much better than original dull grey.

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#604 43 days ago
Quoted from KJL:

F105 is the +5V in the schematic for WPC 95. For the WPC driver board F105 is high power solenoids according to the schematic. Check if your search is coming up with games prior to Congo which is the first to use the WPC 95 driver board.
It looks like F105 goes through D7-D10 Then C9 then Q1 etc until leaving the board at J101, J138, J139, J140, and J141
Pull those connectors and replace the fuse. If the fuse blows again the problem in on the driver board start with testing D7-10 and working towards those connectors J101 etc.
Good luck[quoted image]

Thanks. D8 was shorted open. Replaced that and AFM is happy again.

#605 43 days ago

Does anyone know where this plastic goes? It’s parts of the Pinbits fluorescent set. Considering here with a spacer but that’s not where it goes.

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#606 42 days ago
Quoted from shovelhed:

So I finally got around to installing chrome saucers, looks awesome much better than original dull grey.[quoted image][quoted image]

Where did you get the main saucer in chrome? I only have the smaller ones thanks

2 weeks later
#608 25 days ago

Although I developed for AFMr, I thought I would share my rendition of the VUK covering with the AMR group. I know there is another prominent version out there, but I wanted something a little different. I wanted to better match the style of the buildings in the games artwork on the backboard and backglass, and also wanted to do something more with the lighting. Here are a few pics along with a short vid (video was taken before I actually put the burns on the model).
EaE-1.jpgEaE-2.jpgEaE.gif

#610 24 days ago

Looks cool. Reminds me of revenge from Mars kinda. One thing it needs is the cutouts by the lettering to expose the bulbs. That's one of my favorite things on the original.

#611 24 days ago

So, I've been asked about any pointers I might have when installing the Pinball Life EVO BriteCaps. Here is my best effort to document the process. Before starting I recommend placing a towel over the playfield to protect it. I meant to post this in the AFMr thread, but hopefully the instructions are the same or similar enough for AFM.

-1) Remove the cow ramp by removing the 2 post screws and the 2 ramp flap screws. Be sure you use a screwdriver with the correct size head so as not to strip the ramp screws. When replacing the 2 ramp flap screws, make sure the heads are seated below the metal flap. You may have to use something thin and non-abrasive to "pop" the flap up over the head when you are re-installing.
IMG_2909 (resized).JPG

-2) Remove the right wire frame. Pay careful attention to the center mount screw as there will be a zip tie that will come loose from this. When re-installing, be sure to first put the ramp in position and slide the zip tie back over the post.

a) Remove the nut and washer from the right lower sling.
IMG_2912 (resized).JPG

b) Remove the screw from the center support.
IMG_2911 (resized).JPG

c) Carefully slide the two wires from where they are seated into the metal bracket attached to the top ramp. Note that you cannot fully remove the wireframe since wires are attached to it, but carefully set it out of the way and be careful not to scratch anything.
IMG_2910 (resized).JPG

-3) Loosen the top ramp so that you can maneuver it around enough to replace the pop caps You do not need to fully remove the top ramp, but if you do you will need to cut all of the zip ties off and disconnect cables - I highly suggest not doing this.

a) Remove the nut and washer from the post securing the top ramp above the 3 pop bumpers.
IMG_2907 (resized).JPG

b) Loosen the top gate nut and remove the lower gate screw securing to the plastic, then rotate the gate so as to access the ramp flap screws. Also, remove the 2 ramp flap screws as performed in step 1.
IMG_2906 (resized).JPG

c) THIS IS CRITICAL OR YOU WILL DAMAGE YOUR PLAYFIELD AND/OR CABINET | 1) Use a small bag or sock or something to wrap around the upper ramp flap. When maneuvering the ramp around you could scratch the playfield with the thin metal piece. 2) Do the same to cover the metal support bracket at the right of the top plastic ramp. This piece is sharp, and it will scratch your side blade/panel or even the top of your side rail as you maneuver it around.
IMG_2914 (resized).JPG

-4) Maneuver the top ramp so as to access removal of the 2 screws on one of the pop caps. You may have to hold it up or to the side (or have an assistant do it) to keep it out of the way depending upon which cap you are replacing. Be careful not to scratch the underside of it with a screwdriver or other tool while working to replace the caps.

a) Remove the two screws, and set them aside as you will be using the longer screws supplied with the BriteCaps to re-secure the caps after installation.

b) Remove the LED bulb.

c) Insert the new BriteCap module and orient it so that 1) the screw holes line up with the holes in the housing, and 2) the two small adjustment screws on top of the BriteCap are accessible (i.e. not covered up by the ramp to where you can't get to them).

d) Repeat the process for the other two pop caps.

-5) Turn the pin on in order to adjust the brightness of the outer rings and to set the inner rings to be solid or triggered by vibration. The document that comes with the caps will tell you which adjustment screw is which, or you just turn one to see what it controls. You'll need a fine tipped Philips screwdriver to turn these screws. You only need to turn slightly to achieve change, so don't over do it.
IMG_2913 (resized).JPG

a) Find which screw controls the out ring brightness. Turn this screw to adjust to desired brightness (I have mine at 100%). Perform this for all 3 caps, as you'll want them to be equally bright, I assume.

b) Turn the other screw to desired setting. If the inner ring is currently on, then it will always be on. If you want it off by default and triggered by vibration then turn the screw slightly until the inner ring goes off. When set to the off position, the inner ring will flash during vibration (i.e. when a ball activates its pop). When adjustments are completed, turn the game off.

-6) Using the longer supplied screws, secure each of the caps by carefully aligning all of the holes. Tighten the screws until the caps are snug and don't vibrate, but don't tighten so much that you strip the holes.

-7) Install the top ramp.

a) Position the top plastic ramp back in place over the post and align the ramp flap holes. Insert and fully tighten the two top ramp flap screws, making sure that the heads rest below the metal flap.

b) Reposition the gate and insert the screw and tighten to secure the bottom part of the gate, then tighten the top nut of the gate.

c) Place the washer and nut back on the support post and tighten.

-8) Install the wire frame.

a) Insert the 2 wires into the support holes on the metal bracket attached to the upper ramp.

b) Place the bottom of the rap over the sling post but do not add nut back yet. Loop the zip tie over the center post to secure the wires, then insert the center post screw and tighten.

c) Place the washer and nut back onto the sling post, position the wire frame so that it is aligned with return lane, and tighten nut.

-9) Install the cow ramp.

a) Position the ramp in place and secure the 2 ramp flap screws fully. Again, make sure the heads of the screws sit below the metal ramp.

b) Insert and tighten the two post screws to secure the ramp.

ALL DONE! Turn the game back on, and enjoy your new PBL Brite Caps.

1 week later
#612 13 days ago

Hoping someone can help with the the bill ung expansion kit. I've emailed them as well.

Is the yellow wire meant to go in the IC socket or not attached but bent out?

Thanks in advance.

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#613 13 days ago

Also I saw somewhere to order the eat at eddys building as mezel are unavailable, pps??

#614 13 days ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

Hoping someone can help with the the bill ung expansion kit. I've emailed them as well.
Is the yellow wire meant to go in the IC socket or not attached but bent out?
Thanks in advance.[quoted image][quoted image]

Can’t help with the answer as it’s been way too long now, sorry, but I had exactly the same issue with that particular weakness in the kit. My yellow cable snapped off!

#615 11 days ago

Just a follow up. Firstly the support has been fantastic and Bill was very helpful. If only all suppliers were as good as this. Thank you Bill!

The yellow wire goes to the add on socket leg which you bend out to bypass the actual pcb socket. I bought a new socket and re wired it all up and all working perfectly now.
20191031_144337 (resized).jpg

#616 11 days ago

After a long absence, I’m getting back in the club! Couple of questions for everyone. Is there a consensus on LED GI color (cold, warm, or sunlight whites)? Is there any big benefit to GI OCD board on afm? I know it can recreate the blackout mod. But any other noticeable difference? Is Pinbits still making the blackout mod or shaker??

#617 11 days ago

So I went with cool white for GI. Havent seen afm with ocd board. Pinbits has blackout mod but no shakers in stock, I wish they did though. Here’s a pick of mine with cool whites in gi.
Harley D.

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#618 11 days ago

I have a new red Bill Ung saucer light kit I bought many years ago and never used it since I ended up with a AFMr. I will be listing it for sale soon. Is $150 a fair price?

#619 11 days ago
Quoted from shovelhed:

So I went with cool white for GI. Havent seen afm with ocd board. Pinbits has blackout mod but no shakers in stock, I wish they did though. Here’s a pick of mine with cool whites in gi.
Harley D.[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks. Cool white is what I usually go with. I’ll probably stick with it. Your game looks great.

#620 5 days ago

Time for a fresh bump. Going to look at a very nice original this weekend. Doesn’t have too many mods. ColorDMD and fill LED. Which ColorDMD is better for this game, LED or LCD?

#621 5 days ago

Both are great, I prefer Led on wpc games
I have Lcd in all modern Sterns. The colors really pop on the Led, much more options on Lcd.

#622 5 days ago
Quoted from shovelhed:

Both are great, I prefer Led on wpc games
I have Lcd in all modern Sterns. The colors really pop on the Led, much more options on Lcd.

Does the Remake employ LED or LCD?

#623 5 days ago

Im not positive but think its a lcd

#624 5 days ago

Lcd on the remake. Its also even bigger than the opening and the Bally logo is part of it. I saw someone hacked it and had a pic of a dog

#625 5 days ago

Are there any additional animations or anything in the Remake that is not in the original?

#626 4 days ago

Not that I'm aware of but getting extra ball and seeing him get smacked in the face losing teeth looks great in color

#627 4 days ago

Here are a few pictures of the one I'm going to hopefully buy this weekend.New playfield. New decals. Cliffys. ColorDMD. Back Board decal. New coin door. New lock down bar and possibly new rails. I think that is all it has done.

IMG_3642.jpgIMG_3644.jpgIMG_3643.jpgIMG_3645.jpgIMG_3651.jpgIMG_3652.jpg
#628 4 days ago

Nice looking pin, you won’t be disappointed.

#629 4 days ago

The credit dot is from Time & Date not set.

#630 4 days ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

[quoted image][quoted image]
Taking an idea from a friend..... Rigged up a "moon" from a space Invaders vid with a blacklight fixture.

Ditto!

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#631 2 days ago

It’s official, I made the deal today to pick up that original AFM I posted earlier. New decals, New PF, Cliffy’s, full LED, ColorDMD, Rottendog board, all new plastics with protectors, backboard art, new coin door, new rails.

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#632 2 days ago

Congrats

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