Please give this group a heads up if/when you produce some decorated sets of these.

Hey gang, does anyone have, or know where I can find a high-res file of the lower cabinet graphics? One that might be used to print decals, altho I am not doing that.

I ordered a set over the weekend... Hopefully it will ship soon!

The common advice is to do it with them down, from under the playfield.

While i'm swapping my gofers, i'm going to strip and repaint the black caps with some high-end ceramic paint, then put mylar on them to protect the paint.
Seems like with home use, they should stay pretty for a few years!

You are incorrect... The exact opposite it true. NGG has a backglass, not a translite, as do all games with the integrated light panel.
If your NGG has a translite, its a repro and a sheet of glass, not original.

I said nothing about "mirrored".

Do a RAM clear... Turn the game off and remove the batteries and let it sit for 10 mins, then do the reverse.
You'll lose your settings and high scores, but that usually clears up nutty behaviors.

Nice stuff, but how does the panel decal cover the raised "Williams" logo and not look terrible?

Its a good fail safe, but it must be the thinnest felt you can find, like fuzzy paper. More importantly, what 95% of people dont realize is, if properly adjusted, no part of the slam ramp should ever make contact with the playfield!

After much "slamming" the coil-stay can start to bend down (even a hair!), not necessarily obvious to the eye. Make sure its level, or you can even bend it upward toward the PF, which will shorten the plunger travel. If you push the ramp all the way down by hand, you should be able to slide 3 stacked pieces of copy paper under it. If your ramp doesnt hit, but your flap does, obviously you can carefully bend that upward slightly as well. Contrary to popular belief, a ramp flap doesnt need to contact the PF with pressure to be functional as intended.
Also make sure the screws that attach the posts are not only tight and loctite is used, but that they are the correct ones!!

From a logic perspective, Lawlor and Williams didnt create a game element that would very obviously destroy the PF over time.

I got mine from Treasure Cove. Expensive, but its excellent quality and if you install it correctly, you'll never know its even there.
Use glazing putty to fill any divots in the PF where the ramp marks are, wet sand lightly with 800 grit and then clean the area with windex.
Use the soap & water method to position the overlay, but dont dally, the decal will lock on quickly!
I suggest putting mylar over it... I laid the overlay decal on top of a mylar sheet, then cut the mylar out about 1/2" larger all the way around the overlay.
Lastly, inspect and adjust the slam ramp related components so it doesn't hit the PF anymore (its not supposed to actually touch the PF)!!

TMI for the question? just trying to help.... Good luck!

The overlay is laminated but its very thin, so the lamination and ink may wear off over time or if you rubbed it with chemicals. A non-concern for me with the mylar. If the ramp continues hitting the PF, it will probably shred up the decal quickly without the mylar protection.

Puuuurdy!

Ok, this may sound nuts but... If your flasher for the insert "Wheel Value" was replaced with an LED.... Try changing just that flasher bulb back to an incandescent bulb and see what happens.

Go to flasher test mode and make sure the flasher bulb isn't burned out.

Nice work!!

Someone must have removed the connector... Cant imagine why, but most operators are stupid hacks. You can just solder the leads to a GI socket or do it correctly and make an inline connector.

Before going to all that trouble, try a RAM clear, take the batteries out and leave the game off for 1/2hr. You'll lose all your settings and scores, but same if you swap out the MPU, unless you have a spare MPU with NGG ROM's.

It clears up many nutty logic problems, which appears to be the cause, based on your testing results thus far. I'm wondering if your RAM is failing or has some bad blocks.

It really depends on the games history... how long it was routed, how many plays, how many hours its been powered on, etc.
RAM should theoretically last the life of the game, but dirty power, spikes, heat and fluctuating voltages due to power supply components not performing as they once did, are all factors. boards dont typically fail, and can almost always be repaired if they do, but notorious components like capacitors, transistors and IC's certainly do fail.

That's as good as any! I've been doing it with a 90 degree pick or a tiny flat head screwdriver for nearly 40 years so...

If you're referring to the processor (ASIC chip), there's no need to bother with that in your case, and that is not game specific. There is a specific tool for the ASIC chip, but you don't use that tool for IC's or SIP chips like ROM & RAM chips.
Even an IC removal tool is only good for socketed chips, most of the IC's on the MPU are soldered and are destroyed to be safely desoldered and removed. Typically only the ROM chips are socketed because they are commonly replaced for updates. So if you are replacing a non-socketed chip (like RAM), its best to solder a socket in place of the removed IC and then its easily replaced in the future.

One board controls both the sound and DMD, typically if a DMD lights up, its ok... My first instinct would be to make sure none of the ribbon cables are off by a pin or 2. Clearly this is an issue with the A/V board or the data signal to it from the CPU, since both functions are wonky.

Nice!! I worked at the Livonia, MI location of CCME back in 1991-92. That's when I got Williams tech certified. The last thing I did before I left, was buy a shiny new T2 (at cost), and I still have it!
Congrats on a kickass find, and thanks for the throwback... Even though it fully renews my contempt and fury for the despicable greed that has ruined this hobby.

Interesting! Weird that this is my first clue that this even existed! Looks pretty cool!

You sure did!

Thanks for posting all that! The coolest thing i've seen and read, about pinball, in a while!!

Based on the wire colors, that plug would be for a GI string that would be attached to a detachable playfield assembly with GI lights on it, like an upper PF, spotlights, etc. Its entirely possible that it is unused. You could confirm this by checking if there is 5-6VAC at that connector.

Find which driver transistor relates to that flasher in the solenoid matrix and replace it. Leaving that transistor shorted and "on" all the time will eventually overheat and burn up your PD board. Stop playing the game until you fix it, don't let a $1 problem turn into a $200+ problem.