Decided to make a few instruction cards, for those who would like some.
Any recommendations for ways to protect the playfield from the slam ramp? I was thinking some felt or something similar for under the ramp and it's metal bracketing. Suggestions or tips?
I've been trying to think of ways to protect the playfield from the slam ramp on my NGG. I thought about using some kind of felt, or putting small furniture pads on the corners, or... I finically decided to cut a custom piece of a kind of thin black craft foam (not sure what's it's really called, my mom actually had some laying around and I grabbed some the last time I was over there.)
Anyway, with the game off I put the foam piece under the ramp and manually pushed the ramp down. I traced the shape of the ramp onto the foam and cut it to accordingly. To adhere it to the ramp I had thought about hot glue, but then remembered I had some clear double sided tape. I figured hot glue would be a lot harder to remove if I ever needed to. With the foam cut, the tape added, I stuck that sucker to the bottom of the ramp and pressed it on. Played a few games and it seems to work perfect so far.
Here are a couple of pictures so you can get a visual of what it looks like. Maybe other owners out there are trying to protect their playfields too, so here is a suggestion for those people.
(By the way, the half moon piece of mylar on the playfield around that slam ramp area was put there by the previous owner. And rather poorly I might add. But it's ok, I hardly notice it really.)
I was worried about it sitting a little higher too but really the difference is negligible. The ramp shots don't feel or appear any different than before. It's working great so far. I hope it stands up against the wear and tear over time (although I don't see why it wouldn't.)
I am planning on buying an NVRAM for my game, but not sure which chip type to go with. I obviously know that NGG is a WPC-95 game, but on Pinitech's website, it says those type games "could use either a 62256 SRAM or 6264 SRAM". I have done other Williams games before and simply matched the number from the existing RAM on the game with the replacement I needed.
However, on my Gofers, the existing chip doesn't seem to list one or the other of 62256 or 6264. Anyone have an idea or recommendation for which NVRAM chip to purchase?
Thanks for everyone's replies, all really helpful. I have done WPC-95 games before and know how delicate the traces are so I'm not intimidated by the board and solder work. NVRAMs are the best solution in my opinion if you don't mind doing a little extra work. Pinitech also includes the socket (already included in the price of the chip) if you so choose that option during checkout.
Quoted from lyonsden:
You can use FM1608-120-PG, which are a direct replacement for the chip on your board.
I'll have to look into these. They work just as any other NVRAM chip? The chip itself on my game is good, just want to eliminate batteries altogether.
Quoted from lyonsden:
If you have the skills to remove the old chip, NVRAM is the way to go.
Quoted from lyonsden:
I am that moron (and have repaired way too many games due to battery leakage. . . )
I am in agreeance with both of these statements. I used to have remote battery packs on my games but became too much of a hassle to write down when the batteries were changed, throwing away dead batteries, buying new ones, checking voltage to see if only one battery is bad, etc.
Although I will say that some board work can be intimidating to some people, which is totally fine. And if that's the case, remote battery packs are a totally viable option and way better than leaving the batteries on the board. If you ever sell you game, the next owner will be very pleased to know you at least did something to take the batteries off the board.
Finally replaced the stock RAM with an NVRAM (I asked about it a few months back on here, but just haven't had much time to mess with games in a while.)
Since the stock RAM is soldered onto the board and not socketed, I clipped the legs of the RAM with a pair of dikes (diagonal pliers), then used the solder sucker to remove the solder. This system worked really well, the sucker actually sucked the cut legs right up with the solder with relative ease. If anyone is worried about board work because of the delicate traces on these WPC boards, this is a great technique to really minimize the changes of damaging those traces.
I wish I had taken some pictures along the way, but I had been putting it off for so long that I just did it without really thinking of taking pictures. Just thought I would relay some info to hopefully make things easier for anyone else thinking about NVRAM, but too nervous to do so because of the fine traces on the board.
If you want to prevent further wear on the slam ramp area here is a link to what I did. Very straightforward process and cheap fix.
Sheesh, 143 Million!? That's a great game. How many extra balls? I think I put up around 65 million one night, can't remember how many extra balls, but more than likely only 1 or 2.
Quoted from dudah:
Took advantage of a snowy Chicago day to start shopping out my game! While it's in great shape for it's age, it's pretty filthy!
I must say, using lug connectors instead of soldering onto coils is a massive headache saver. I was able to tear apart the whole game, easily removing every mech in just a couple hours!
I've shopped out a lot of 90's B/W games. This is my "newest" game and I feel the is by far the best designed one. Not a ton of hardware on the topside, very easy to maintenance anything, very easy to tear down underneath also. To the above point, I was please to find the spinners are one self contained unit. Sad it seemed like Williams really was on top of their manufacturing game when it ended.
Those are the instruction cards I made I feel like such a proud father in this moment. A proud father of my little instruction cards all grown up.
Hard to tell from the picture, but did they turn out ok for you?
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