Hello everyone, just joined the club last week. Hoping someone can look at the pic of the back glass lighting and tell me if the splices are normal. Also what bulbs are supposed to go in the black holders?

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Thank you sevenrites!! I'm sure I'll be asking for more help as I dig in and ship the machine.

Has anyone used a SmartDMD or DMD Extender on Gofers? I've searched but came up with only Color DMD. I would like to make a larger display is possible, which is why I'm asking about the DMD Extender options.

Starting to get an order together for a shop job and realized that I need to remount the left and right flash lamp assemblies - they just aren't mounted right... Does anyone know what size spacer posts go where? Can't find it in the manual.
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Also, I found these wire taps on the line to the middle spotlight on the right ramp. I can't imagine this is normal, but figured I'd ask before tracing through the harness.
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The #25 nut is a nyloc nut, and should only be used 1 or 2 times before it is replaced. They can also get old and brittle... It relies on the screw threads gripping into the plastic insert to keep it from falling off, not toque like a traditional nut in a metal joint. You can find them at most hardware stores and are worth the 30cents to just replace them next time your working on the machine.

So my back-box connector is hacked, could someone tell me if the backbox ever changes during gameplay? Mine is just always on with the 5 random flashers working. In test mode GI strings 4 & 5 don't seem to turn anything on/off, just wondering if the backbox is wired wrong and I should look into it.

Mine is flaking bad on the edges, I too would be interested in a scan or print if anyone has one.

Could someone confirm the length of the post that mounts the upper playfield? I am replacing, and think mine is too short since it has a marks from the right gofer ramp hitting it.

Yes, please measure the post. Has anyone used a washer our something to space up the mini playfield? I don't want to scratch the new one after waiting so long to replace it.

I choose not to NVRAM because I wasn't comfortable soldering in a socket. I did un-solder the battery holder from the board and install a remote one in the bottom behind the speaker.

I think you can add the GIOCD board, and program it to dim the back-box lighting once a game is started.

I'd have to check, but I thought NGG took 4 balls, not 6.

PinBuck Please check out the mini-playfield I have in the market place: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/58274

Swap out isn't hard, just takes some time. The whole upper assembly is actually only held on by one screw. My advice is to find the harnesses that go up there for the lights and switches and disconnect, and free those before you remove the screw. Once the single screw comes out, you pull it forward about an inch, and carefully maneuver it out between the ramps. Once removed, it is fairly simple to remove and transfer all the parts. A few wires need to be zip-tied to the bottom, but not tricky at all.

Schamattack awesome grab, I saw that on CL and almost thought of buying a second. If you need to do any comparison or need any pics let me know I'm right down the road in Oak Creek.

Not the best picture, and my wiring harness it hacked, but this may help you with lamp placement. All the black bodies should be 455 random flash bulbs.

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Also check out post #712: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attaaaack-no-good-gofers-club-all-welcome/page/15#post-3593667

You can't find it as a kit, but you can find the individual items per the bulletin.
https://www.ipdb.org/files/4338/NGG_A_22599.pdf

Ramp piece
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=01-15002

Has anyone else gotten tired of unplugging the back-glass and installed a light board? Did this the past weekend and eliminated the tub. Used LED strips for most of of it, but still installed 5 sockets for the 555 blinkers. Had most of the parts around the workshop, only ran out and spent $2 on the bolt latch. Used JM for sizing the board.

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Regarding the slam ramp: How is everyone's ramp for "twist"? The play on mine after replacing the coil sleeve and nyliner is minimal, but it has 5-10 degrees of twist-ability in it. I realize the custom 10-32 SHCS is supposed to hold the ramp straight, but it is really sloppy.

JT-Pinball I would recommend test fitting your upper playfield now and checking that balls on the main play field don't hit the leading edge. I bought the replacement from PPS and had to heat and bend the front edge up about 3/8" because the ball was catching it. If yours is the same, it is much easier to do now than after everything is mounted.

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I have a homemade version of this, that run off my drill battery. It drains quickly, but I can usually 2-3 bends before I have to charge the battery.

Take a look at Post 1449 - I eliminated the TUB and put in a hinged board like other machines before they started cutting costs. I like being able to remove the glass without struggling with the plug.

allsportdvd I ordered and received a no-bend Mini-playfield from Planetary. Balls hit it like crazy and I had to put the bend in. The other solution is to use a slightly taller mounting post until balls clear.

I have a homemade line heater made from some Ni chrome wire. Sort of like this

, but I use an 18V drill battery. I clamped some scrape wood on either side of the bend line, heated for ~4 minutes, bent it and held it at the angle until cool.

TimBoch - With LED strips it is pretty straightforward to replace the whole tube with a more traditional light board, just need a piece of wood, some hinges and a latch. I used strips for the general lighting and kept sockets for the flashing bulbs.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attaaaack-no-good-gofers-club-all-welcome/page/29#post-6133887

I removed the tower of spot lights from mine. With LEDs in them they would fall out from vibration and it also clears up visibility of the left ramp shot. With LEDs in the GI they aren't as neecesary, but I put an LED strip across the back, under the glass channel to keep the upper playfield well lit.