(Topic ID: 101269)

"ATTAAAACK!!!" No Good Gofers Club. All welcome.


By Marten

5 years ago



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There are 1338 posts in this topic. You are on page 24 of 27.
#1151 1 year ago

Yep, this machine is HUO so things that require a ton of play will likely be fine but anything common is worth stocking up on.

#1152 1 year ago

Took advantage of a snowy Chicago day to start shopping out my game! While it's in great shape for it's age, it's pretty filthy!
I must say, using lug connectors instead of soldering onto coils is a massive headache saver. I was able to tear apart the whole game, easily removing every mech in just a couple hours!

I've shopped out a lot of 90's B/W games. This is my "newest" game and I feel the is by far the best designed one. Not a ton of hardware on the topside, very easy to maintenance anything, very easy to tear down underneath also. To the above point, I was please to find the spinners are one self contained unit. Sad it seemed like Williams really was on top of their manufacturing game when it ended.

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#1153 1 year ago
Quoted from dudah:

Took advantage of a snowy Chicago day to start shopping out my game! While it's in great shape for it's age, it's pretty filthy!
I must say, using lug connectors instead of soldering onto coils is a massive headache saver. I was able to tear apart the whole game, easily removing every mech in just a couple hours!
I've shopped out a lot of 90's B/W games. This is my "newest" game and I feel the is by far the best designed one. Not a ton of hardware on the topside, very easy to maintenance anything, very easy to tear down underneath also. To the above point, I was please to find the spinners are one self contained unit. Sad it seemed like Williams really was on top of their manufacturing game when it ended.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Hey Dudah, since you can obviously take apart and put this pin back together, can I ask you a question? My plastic upper playfield has scratches on it from the gopher slam ramps hitting it from underneath, but they look riveted. Is it hard to replace that part? Do you have any advice on how to remove the rivet and then does it need to be riveted back together? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

2 weeks later
#1154 1 year ago
Quoted from dudah:

Took advantage of a snowy Chicago day to start shopping out my game! While it's in great shape for it's age, it's pretty filthy!
I must say, using lug connectors instead of soldering onto coils is a massive headache saver. I was able to tear apart the whole game, easily removing every mech in just a couple hours!

I've shopped out a lot of 90's B/W games. This is my "newest" game and I feel the is by far the best designed one. Not a ton of hardware on the topside, very easy to maintenance anything, very easy to tear down underneath also. To the above point, I was please to find the spinners are one self contained unit. Sad it seemed like Williams really was on top of their manufacturing game when it ended.

Those are the instruction cards I made I feel like such a proud father in this moment. A proud father of my little instruction cards all grown up.
SoProud.gif

Hard to tell from the picture, but did they turn out ok for you?

#1155 1 year ago

Ever since bringing home my NGG I've had a buzzing slam ramp coil, but just now getting around to tackling it. I filed down the coil stop and plunger end, no change. Ordered up a new coil stop, installed, and now I've got even more coil buzz!!!

I've got a 2nd NGG with no buzz at all, I'm tempted to swap parts to see what happens, but don't want to end up with two NGGs with slam ramp buzzers. One Buzz in that game is enough!!! Haha

Any other ideas? Could the off center mark on the old stop be a sign of an alignment issue that is causing the buzz?

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#1156 1 year ago

Will soon join the club! My dealer (sound like a druggie...lol) has hooked me up with a sweet NGG. He has done a bunch of work on it and it looks awesome! I can’t wait to play it, but vaca first. I’m jonesn’ for a new pin!

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#1157 1 year ago
Quoted from dnapac:

Will soon join the club!

Nice pick up.i love mine,had it for years.Consider a LCD color display for it.Suits the cartoony animations very well.

#1158 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballCoug:

Ever since bringing home my NGG I've had a buzzing slam ramp coil, but just now getting around to tackling it. I filed down the coil stop and plunger end, no change. Ordered up a new coil stop, installed, and now I've got even more coil buzz!!!
I've got a 2nd NGG with no buzz at all, I'm tempted to swap parts to see what happens, but don't want to end up with two NGGs with slam ramp buzzers. One Buzz in that game is enough!!! Haha
Any other ideas? Could the off center mark on the old stop be a sign of an alignment issue that is causing the buzz?[quoted image]

Is the buzzing slam ramp going all the way down to the playfield? Once in awhile mine is every so slightly elevated and it buzzes. Just wanted to pass that along as a potential area for you to troubleshoot.

#1159 1 year ago

Would like to be a member one day and try to get that hole in one! If anyone has one for sale in the NY area give me a shout...thanks!

#1160 1 year ago
Quoted from nicknack66:

Is the buzzing slam ramp going all the way down to the playfield?

Yep, definitely goes all the way down. I also swapped in the coil and coil stop from my non buzzing NGG and still have the buzz. I'm thinking it's an alignment issue with the slam ramp components now.

#1161 1 year ago

Just got done shopping mine out - LED's, color matched silicone rubber, flipper rebuild, rebuilt pop bumpers, flame polished plastic, replaced all the coil sleeves, German playfield protector, flashinstinct decals, and a new disc decal! The top side of the playfield doesn't have a ton of pieces, and it all came together very easy and intuitively.
Also did a great job matching the paint and touching up some slam ramp damage - can't even tell with the game on.

Plays like a totally different game! I love the shots and how easily they all line up, great flow.

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#1162 1 year ago
Quoted from dudah:

Just got done shopping mine out - LED's, color matched silicone rubber, flipper rebuild, rebuilt pop bumpers, flame polished plastic, replaced all the coil sleeves, German playfield protector

Did you have to adjust the slam ramp at all with the playfield protector on?

#1163 1 year ago

I raised my wheel up when I added the protector but no need to adjust the slam ramp. Btw 2019 pf protectors are super thin. Big improvement.

#1164 1 year ago
Quoted from jfh:

Did you have to adjust the slam ramp at all with the playfield protector on?

There's no way to adjust the slam ramp for that. I did add some felt on the bottom of it.

Like terror said, the protector is extremely thin. Got a bunch of games in on it last night and no signs of scratching the protector. PETG is very tough plastic.

#1165 1 year ago

After more than a year of public play my protector was hammered. My pf was not, though! I recently did a pass at buffing out all the scratches. It’s shiny and passable but now I’m hankering to replace it with a thin one.

#1166 1 year ago
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:

After more than a year of public play my protector was hammered. My pf was not, though! I recently did a pass at bugging out all the scratches. It’s shiny and passable but now I’m hankering to replace it with a thin one.

I have no problem paying for replacement protectors if they save the PF

I had an NOS playfield I sold a few years back. Probably should have kept it. My current playfield is an original with very little play on it but thinking about putting on one of the new PETG protectors to be super safe since NGG is probably not leaving my collection in my lifetime. I only have one game with a protector on it (BM66) and haven’t seen any issues with game play because of it.

Be interested to hear how anyone with one on Gofers feels about it.

1 week later
#1167 1 year ago

I’m having an issue where my NGG resets constantly but only after being on for 3+ hours. Any ideas?

#1168 1 year ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

I’m having an issue where my NGG resets constantly but only after being on for 3+ hours. Any ideas?

Perhaps a long shot since you said it only occurs after 3+ hours, but have you tried plunging the game in a different outlet which is on a different circuit from the current one? My game used to reset and I believe that these games are very sensitive to I think voltage (which when it drops causes them to reset) so when I moved to a different outlet on a different circuit with less other stuff running on it my game stopped resetting. I am not an electrician so my terms may be off, but for clarity, when I say a different outlet on a different circuit, I mean an outlet that is associated with a different fuse in the fuse box (not simply an outlet with less stuff plugged in since if it's on the same circuit/fuse it won't really change anything).

#1169 1 year ago

Comments and tech question

I visited the Coin Op Game Room barcade in San Francisco the other day for the 1st time.

They had a NGG that was kind of cool. Blue powder coated rails etc...
It had all blue LEDs in the back. Although for me it made it hard to see things as it was kind of darkish and there was no contrast.
Also pulling the plunger was unable to get the ball up the left plastic ramp, so getting a chance at a hole in one shot was gone in that situation.
That spring issue kind of ruined the game play for me.
Otherwise it seemed to be in great shape, and somebody had obviously put some time and money into it at some point.
I'll need to contact the operator somehow about the spring / plunger.

QUESTION! That game had a flasher bulb sideways under the word "Hole" (obviously under the plastic, near the hole in one shot / closer to the front of the machine / between the metal ramps).
That flasher blinks when the hole in one ramp comes down.
My NGG has a 555 LED there that remains steady on when the time the jump ramp is down (it does seem to go on and off in attract mode).
Which configuration is "normal"?
Is the blinking flasher there a mod?
Do you think somebody put a 555 there for fear of a flasher melting the plastic?
Wrong bulb in the socket?
Did a code update change the light behavior on purpose or accident? (I'll have to double check my code version, usually I have the newest)

Please advise

Thanks!

BobC

#1170 1 year ago
Quoted from BobC:

Also pulling the plunger was unable to get the ball up the left plastic ramp, so getting a chance at a hole in one shot was gone in that situation.
That spring issue kind of ruined the game play for me.

In that situation (on any machine), trying slapping the plunger with the heel of the palm of your hand. You can _usually_ get enough velocity that way to make that kind of shot without attracting the attendant's attention.

#1172 1 year ago
Quoted from BobC:

Comments and tech question
I visited the Coin Op Game Room barcade in San Francisco the other day for the 1st time.
They had a NGG that was kind of cool. Blue powder coated rails etc...
It had all blue LEDs in the back. Although for me it made it hard to see things as it was kind of darkish and there was no contrast.
Also pulling the plunger was unable to get the ball up the left plastic ramp, so getting a chance at a hole in one shot was gone in that situation.
That spring issue kind of ruined the game play for me.
Otherwise it seemed to be in great shape, and somebody had obviously put some time and money into it at some point.
I'll need to contact the operator somehow about the spring / plunger.
QUESTION! That game had a flasher bulb sideways under the word "Hole" (obviously under the plastic, near the hole in one shot / closer to the front of the machine / between the metal ramps).
That flasher blinks when the hole in one ramp comes down.
My NGG has a 555 LED there that remains steady on when the time the jump ramp is down (it does seem to go on and off in attract mode).
Which configuration is "normal"?
Is the blinking flasher there a mod?
Do you think somebody put a 555 there for fear of a flasher melting the plastic?
Wrong bulb in the socket?
Did a code update change the light behavior on purpose or accident? (I'll have to double check my code version, usually I have the newest)
Please advise
Thanks!
BobC

That flasher blinks when the hole in one ramp comes down. <---CORRECT
My NGG has a 555 LED there that remains steady on when the time the jump ramp is down (it does seem to go on and off in attract mode).
Which configuration is "normal"? <---SHOULD BE A 906
Is the blinking flasher there a mod? <---DOUBTFUL
Do you think somebody put a 555 there for fear of a flasher melting the plastic? <---MAYBE
Wrong bulb in the socket? <---YES

NOTE: I installed Cointaker Super 13 #906 in mine.
https://cointaker.com/products/906-super-13

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#1173 1 year ago
Quoted from nicknack66:

Perhaps a long shot since you said it only occurs after 3+ hours, but have you tried plunging the game in a different outlet which is on a different circuit from the current one? My game used to reset and I believe that these games are very sensitive to I think voltage (which when it drops causes them to reset) so when I moved to a different outlet on a different circuit with less other stuff running on it my game stopped resetting. I am not an electrician so my terms may be off, but for clarity, when I say a different outlet on a different circuit, I mean an outlet that is associated with a different fuse in the fuse box (not simply an outlet with less stuff plugged in since if it's on the same circuit/fuse it won't really change anything).

Tried that and now the game resets upon startup each time

#1174 1 year ago

Has anyone noticed any bugs with the slam ramp lane switch and not triggering the slam ramp?

#1175 1 year ago
Quoted from dudah:

Has anyone noticed any bugs with the slam ramp lane switch and not triggering the slam ramp?

Yes, it happens once in awhile for me as well. I have never quite pin-pointed it down as to what causes it because it’s so infrequent. As I understand, the NGG code is incomplete. Not as bad as some other games (ex. Cactus Canyon), but there are little bugs in NGG code. I’m not saying the occasional non-responsive slam ramp is a code issue, but it’s hard to be certain what is and isn’t in NGG.

1 week later
#1176 1 year ago

Thanks for the info!

BTW, I see there are 2 flashers listed for the upper playfield.
Where does the second one go?
I think I have another socket behind the hole in one hole, but right now it's a steady on blue 555 or 47 bulb (incandescent?)

Thanks again!

BobC

Quoted from evh347:

That flasher blinks when the hole in one ramp comes down. &lt;---CORRECT
My NGG has a 555 LED there that remains steady on when the time the jump ramp is down (it does seem to go on and off in attract mode).
Which configuration is "normal"? &lt;---SHOULD BE A 906
Is the blinking flasher there a mod? &lt;---DOUBTFUL
Do you think somebody put a 555 there for fear of a flasher melting the plastic? &lt;---MAYBE
Wrong bulb in the socket? &lt;---YES
NOTE: I installed Cointaker Super 13 #906 in mine.
https://cointaker.com/products/906-super-13
[quoted image][quoted image]

#1177 1 year ago
Quoted from BobC:

Thanks for the info!
BTW, I see there are 2 flashers listed for the upper playfield.
Where does the second one go?
I think I have another socket behind the hole in one hole, but right now it's a steady on blue 555 or 47 bulb (incandescent?)
Thanks again!
BobC

In the settings for NGG, go under TEST and select 'T.5 Flasher Test'.
Next, find 'T.5 45 Upper PF Right' and there are a total of two #906 flashers that will flash simultaneously provided you either close the coin door or block the two white high-power switches (normally blocked by the coin door). I've circled the flashers for you in yellow.

NOTE: If the white high-power switches inside the coin door are not continuously blocked/held, the flashers will flash (eventually growing dimmer w/ each successive flash) until the high-power is used up. So if you want them to flash continuously during test, block those white switches (or just close the coin door while you test) and keep you hands off anything with high-power unless you want an electrifying experience.

The other two #906 flashers are associated with 'T.5 46 Upper PF Left'. Do the same thing to see them flash at their location or take a look at where I've circled them for you in the pictures.

All of these should be replaced with #906 flashers according to the manual. I have CoinTaker Super 13's in mine...all blue w/ the exception of the one just under the 18 flag, but that's user-preference. I've tried red, but I like the white better.

So, there are a total of four upper-playfield #906 flashers to be aware of!

To change out all of these flashers, you need access to underneath the upper-playfield. To do that, you remove just one screw and I've circled it for you in green in one of the pictures. Then all you have to do is carefully guide the upper-playfield up and out being careful not to stress any of the wires underneath. It's a one-man job.

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#1178 1 year ago

Wow! Ok thanks LOL
Looks like I have some work to do!

#1179 1 year ago

Joined the club! An awesome addition to the collection.

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#1181 1 year ago

My backbox lights don't light up very well. Any suggestions for a good backbox lighting kit for NGG?

#1182 1 year ago

Check your back box connector the one you disconnect to remove translite

#1183 1 year ago

I’m new to ththe club. If I play in free play, it doesn’t seem to keep track of the high scores. Is this how pins of this era work? Yes, I have high scores turned on.

#1184 1 year ago

Batteries replaced

#1185 1 year ago
Quoted from Madmax541:

Batteries replaced

I have an nvram.
Do others in free play get to enter initials when they get higher than the default high scores?

#1186 1 year ago

Should be able to enter initials with free play or paying.

Does it go back to factory setting every time you turn game on?

#1187 1 year ago

Ok, I gotta be doing something wrong. In the adjustments menu for high scores I have set all 4 defaults to low scores...so I can beat them. But when I let the system scroll through in attract mode, it displays the original high scores, which are quite high.

It keeps my settings in the adjustment menu when I power cycle.

#1188 1 year ago
Quoted from Madmax541:

Check your back box connector the one you disconnect to remove translite

Will do. Thanks for the help, I hope that's all it is!

1 week later
#1189 1 year ago

Figured out my high score problem. After setting the default high score I had to reset all the high scores. All fixed.

#1190 1 year ago

New to the club after last night.
Great game and excited to have it.
Only problem is insert wear.
Is there any place to buy any insert decals?
Clear or colored, any?
Thanks.

1 week later
#1191 11 months ago

Just joined the club. Pretty excited!!

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#1192 11 months ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

Just joined the club. Pretty excited!![quoted image]

glad it found a good home!

#1193 11 months ago
Quoted from Elevatorman:

New to the club after last night.
Great game and excited to have it.
Only problem is insert wear.
Is there any place to buy any insert decals?
Clear or colored, any?
Thanks.

Id also like insert decals as the drive one in from of my left ramp is missing

#1194 11 months ago
Quoted from rwalters21:

glad it found a good home!

The boys love it. They are hooked on it lol

#1195 11 months ago

What’s the better of the two ColorDMD for no good gophers? LED or LCD? I have the LCD in my walking dead which is nice and has multiple effects. Unfortunately I don’t have the cabling to try it in my NGG...anyone own the ColorDMD for their NGG?

#1196 11 months ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

What’s the better of the two ColorDMD for no good gophers? LED or LCD? I have the LCD in my walking dead which is nice and has multiple effects. Unfortunately I don’t have the cabling to try it in my NGG...anyone own the ColorDMD for their NGG?

I've had the LCD in my NGG for almost two years. It's almost a no-brainer because its a pin that needs color. Looks great and it installed easy.

#1197 11 months ago

How exactly is the wheel calibrated when what it is pointing to on the playfield doesn't match with what it reads on the DMD in test mode? In the manual, it says to rotate it in the opposite direction one full revolution when you move the wheel manually. I do that, exit the test, then re-enter test. It then lands on another item that still doesn't match, maybe closer than before, maybe not. I had it match once, exited, then re-tested and it was wrong again. Seems just random. Since this game is on 1.2, I'll update to 1.3 and see how that goes.

Added 11 months ago:

Flaky wheel was resolved by replacing the $25 spinning disk opto board.

#1198 11 months ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

How exactly is the wheel calibrated when what it is pointing to on the playfield doesn't match with what it reads on the DMD in test mode? In the manual, it says to rotate it in the opposite direction one full revolution when you move the wheel manually. I do that, exit the test, then re-enter test. It then lands on another item that still doesn't match, maybe closer than before, maybe not. I had it match once, exited, then re-tested and it was wrong again. Seems just random. Since this game is on 1.2, I'll update to 1.3 and see how that goes.

I responded to you in your other post.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/no-good-gofers-switch-issue-possibly-related-to-wheel-opto#post-4953836

2 weeks later
#1200 11 months ago

I just joined the club last week with a decent NGG, it needs a full tear down and clean but plays well. Thanks to the info in this thread I have managed to tweak some of the common issues. Unfortunately the previous owner has incorrectly installed a new wheel decal, is there anyway to adjust it without taking it off and replacing it?

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