Thinking about getting this game but the music especially (along with some of the voices) really annoy me. Has anyone released a pinsound mix for this as I love everything else about the game.

So I was playing more of it on TPA and it's growing on me. Music changes to guitar rifts which I dig. Fun game.

So code - I thought there was a code update recently - someone working on one. Is that not the case? Wasn't sure which code I should be on as I plan on getting the game this friday - giving it a shot. Love the theme, layout, cab art, etc

Also - can you hit either ramp with the right flipper and can you hit the ball into the pops from the flipper or is that completely blocked?

You'll probably like it even more in person. I was very mixed about it on TPA, but it's much better live. TPA doesn't do the ramps, light show, or hole in one shot justice. It's a game that really needs to be physical/three-dimensional as opposed to being on a screen.

Yes, 1.3 is the latest.

You guys are starting to make me think about keeping mine and buying a colored DMD.

Color dmd is great for this game!

I'm surprised there's not more mods for this game.Color dmd is great and I have
the ramp and other decals.Just seems like there would be more.I was also hoping
the guy who was working on code would finish but he threw in the towel on that project

man - how anyone doesn't have a color dmd in this game - which is so vibrant in color and animation, is beyond me. Def a must have mod!

I bought the LED colour dmd for it,but then swapped it for the LCD I had in totan.
The LCD with the ‘smoothed’ lines in Gofers is perfect I think.
The play field decals from that Canadian fellow are a nice touch also.

A color DMD for my NGG is my next purchase (as others have said, this is a game that really calls for one). Been torn between the LED and LCD version so glad to see you've tried the game with both. Why did you prefer the LCD over the LED? I am used to the orange dots of the stock DMD, and my game is pretty bright with LEDs, so was thinking of going with the LED, but now not sure.

I find that colorful games with a cartoon feel like Simpsons look best with the smooth/HD look which only LCD provides. All opinion though.

I installed a ColorDMD LCD in my NGG over a year ago, haven’t regretted it. You get more methods of customization with LCD. For the cartoon look, the LCD is definitely the way to go. ColorDMD has a pretty good description of their own LCD vs. LED on their website. Both displays are a great improvement in this game.

I use smooth on all mine.

That's it delt31

Thanks all for the advice on going with the LCD over the LED. Sounds like that is the direction I should go.

I’ll tell you why. $400

Yeah but you can sell your old DMD and that color DMD keeps it's value so when if you sell you get it back. No brainer to me I guess

I hear you man,I’m really just afraid if I buy one I’ll want it for all ten

Yes - that actually will happen so I understand!!

First Indiana Jones then NGG

anything special about this game and getting the tilt bob working? Never owned a williams from this era and my tilt looks installed perfectly fine but is not registering. Game plays perfect.

So tilt Bob was my fault. Didn't realize top was unplugged...

One other question for guys without color DMD there anything plugged into your J138 slot? If so what does it power?

Hello All,

About to be a new member on Saturday. I'm buying a project with a lot of new parts. It comes with a complete set of brand new ramps. The old ones are also included and maybe salvageable. I was told the ramps could bring upwards to $700 because they are now unobtainable. I was able to find one of the ramps online for $75. However, it appears no one has the larger left ramp. Does anyone know the value if I decide to use the old ones and subsidize the purchase by selling the new ones?

Pinball spare parts Australia seems to have some. So to answer your question.. for a set maybe closer to 250 usd. What’s wrong with your old ramps?

Hey guys, I recently joined the club and I have a couple of issues:

1. Are there any tips to help with the glare on the upper playfield? It seems like it is a thing that everyone just deals with, but I'm curious if anyone has had luck with any lighting strategies that reduce the translight glare on that clear plastic?

2. I didn't even realize there was supposed to be a pin for a flag above the hole in one shot. Is it just a certain gauge wire and a flag sticker?

Thanks

You can put a polarization filter on the dmd to block some glare.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/best-25-you-can-spend-large-polarizing-film-for-backboxdmd

You are correct the pin is just a bent wire held in place by a rivet. It looks close to a .047 music wire, maybe a bit smaller. You can make your own flag or you could buy a set of flashinstincts decals.
https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Hobbies-Collecting/Tools-Blades/Music-Wire---047/p/97976
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1054-flashinstinct/00667-no-good-gofers-target-decals
NGGFlag (resized).png

Thanks, but the issue isn't the dmd, it is really the translight. I guess I could just remove some lights from it to reduce the brightness and the glare, but that isn't fun.

When I have a translight that's too bright I put automotive tint behind the translight. That way I'm still getting even light distribution unlike removing bulbs and having hot spots.

I think you can add the GIOCD board, and program it to dim the back-box lighting once a game is started.

Any one have any suggestions on what might be causing the game to eject a second ball from the left exit above the pop bumpers? It does this when I have one ball already in resting in the subway area (after locking the ball via the left gofer) and often when I then hit a second ball into the Putting Green the game will first eject one ball from above the pops and then like 2 second later eject the second ball (when it should only eject one). Sometimes it even tries to eject a second ball when there is no second ball to eject (that is, none have been locked). The game has the correct number of balls in it (6) and all switches test fine. Even though they test fine, I am thinking it might be the micro switch or the optic switch at the end of the balls path before it is ejected. I posted this question in the Tech section (more detail there) and a couple of helpful Pinsiders offered some good advice there, but also suggested I post my question in the general NGG forum since maybe someone else who owns/has owned NGG has experienced this same issue, or at least may be more familiar with the game. Thanks.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/no-good-gofers-kicking-out-second-ball-from-above-pops

I'd have to check, but I thought NGG took 4 balls, not 6.

It has 6.

Robert

Hey guys, I recently bought a NGG. Has anyone replaced the mini playfield? It has some heavy scratches over Buzz's slam ramp so I'd like to buy a new one and replace the original, but it looks a little complex and not everything seems to be held down by screws. Can anyone provide some advice/guidance?

Thanks in advance

PinBuck Please check out the mini-playfield I have in the market place: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/58274

Swap out isn't hard, just takes some time. The whole upper assembly is actually only held on by one screw. My advice is to find the harnesses that go up there for the lights and switches and disconnect, and free those before you remove the screw. Once the single screw comes out, you pull it forward about an inch, and carefully maneuver it out between the ramps. Once removed, it is fairly simple to remove and transfer all the parts. A few wires need to be zip-tied to the bottom, but not tricky at all.

Joined the club today! This guy has been sitting in storage for the last 12 years. While it's in great shape overall, it's in need of some cosmetics.

While I cruise through this club's archive, here are my questions:

Slam ramp wear - does anyone make a nice decal that isn't $50? Have color codes for the paint?
Wheel decal - How are the repro ones? Textured? Any advantage either way?
Slam ramp - Mine is welded in a few spots. Should I just bite the bullet and get the Mantis one?
Slam ramp side posts - Mine are missing, where to get em?
Plastic protectors - Anyone make 'em?
Ball hangup mod - Anyone still making this? DIY version?

Thanks!

IMG_20180514_150357 (resized).jpg

Marco has the ramp, the posts, protectors, float ramp guide and the decal.

If you are willing, you can take your game to Home Depot or a paint store and have them do a paint match for the yellow under the slam ramp. It's a bit of work but that way you'll have a really good match.

Robert

Not really...

The paint match may not be exact, but it will be very close and give someone a place to start at least.

Another way is to use Pantone color matching, borrow a pantone color chart from a paint store and see if you can find a match that way, or at least get close.

A couple links to playfield matching:

https://havepinwilltravel.wordpress.com/2012/03/27/starting-paint-matching-and-touch-up/

http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/pinball-restoration/playfield/223-ultimate-playfield-restore-touch-up-painting

Robert

If you want to prevent further wear on the slam ramp area here is a link to what I did. Very straightforward process and cheap fix.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attaaaack-no-good-gofers-club-all-welcome/page/18#post-4080398

OK despite my slam ramp being spot welded, it seems to be in good shape.
Still missing the side posts. Marco has the posts.
Do I really need those special gray 23-6824 post rubbers? Or can I use any standard or wider (yellow) post rubber?

Put what ever you want on there, the wider yellow ones would protect your ramp better. I put blue urethane posts on there of the normal size.

What does it mean when the machine is randomly making a three 'dong' sound similar to when you first power on? Is that code to check something?

EDIT: sometimes its only 2 'dong' sounds in a row.

hmmm....must be sound chip related. I was just playing a game and all of a sudden the sound stopped. I turned the machine off, rebooted, and powered on and the sound was back. When the sound was out, it started playing that 'dong' sound over the speakers again. Is this a sign my sound chip is going bad?

That means there is an issue...it also shows up on the DMD as a dot, called a "credit dot" (the dot next to "free play").

Credit Dot (resized).jpg

Credit dots also appear if a switch hasn't been triggered in 30 balls...meaning you're not that good a player.

Open the coin door and push the "begin test" button and this will display the full test report of the issue.

Robert

I don't have a credit dot. The background music will just randomly stop during play and then a two 'dong' tone is played thru the speakers. The rest of the sound effects still play during gameplay. If its really bad, the game just ends and goes the thru the test power up. WTF? This just started happening out of nowhere.

I turn the game off, then back on, the background music is playing...play the game a bit and everything seems normal, but somewhere randomly the background music just stops playing and the machine makes that 'dong' sound repeatedly.

I just started a game, and left it alone....a minute in without touching anything, the background music stopped playing and the machine began playing that 'dong' sound over and over until finally nothing.

The game in attract mode is randomly making that 'dong' sound. It's that 'dong' sound that happens right after powering up the machine and it completes its test.

Do a factory reset and see if that corrects your issues.

Robert

The factory reset seemed to help and it played/sounded normal, but the game ended abruptly on the last ball, no audio.

I gently pushed on all the cables going to the audio board, and then my display started wigging out. Went from garbled images to nothing at all.
I pushed on some of the ribbon cables going to the main CPU board and it all went back to normal. Played 3 games and it seems normal for now. One of the ribbon cables maybe moved a micro-fraction, but that seems to be all it took. I must've bumped it when swapping out the batteries? Ugh.

Seems to be working now.

Post #1000!

Robert