The ramp is not only attached by hardware on the far right, but by machine screws into the sides of the right metal ramp. You can access these topside. It also is plugged in to 4 connectors beneath the pf, and is fitted into the back board slot. It will lift out, no prob, just find everything and unscrew. You’ll have easy access to the spinner which can be removed entirely if needed with two nuts and a plug.

Ok I’m kinda stumped on this one. My NGG was playing fine except for two rollover switches not activating every time (right out lane and right cart path). I lifted the playfield and adjusted the switches. When I put it back down and restarted the game, all 6 balls just kept ejecting into the shooter lane and were fired out into the play field. At this time everything acts as it is supposed to during a game, except that pressing the flipper buttons does nothing. The balls continue cycle through the machine until I shut it down. The right gofer also remains in the up position during this time, and the putting green fires trying to find balls.

When I go into test mode it tells me that “wheel motor is broken”. The motor spins free from underneath and is not locked up. I took a look at the motor control board under the playfield and noticed the 100uf 35v capacitor was puffed out with a tiny leak, so I replaced that and restarted but still got the same result with the error and the balls ejecting.

I then figured it might be a dirty opto sensor on the ball ejector as there are six of them, so I took the assembly apart on both side and cleaned the opto leds, and realigned them. Turned the machine back on and still the same problem.

I reseated all connectors under the playfied and in the back box and changed the batteries for good measure (no acid corrosion).

Can someone point me in the direction of where else to start or what tests to run?

I also uploaded a short video of what the machine is doing here:

https://streamable.com/wbirb

Thanks so much for any suggestions or advice.

I am planning on buying an NVRAM for my game, but not sure which chip type to go with. I obviously know that NGG is a WPC-95 game, but on Pinitech's website, it says those type games "could use either a 62256 SRAM or 6264 SRAM". I have done other Williams games before and simply matched the number from the existing RAM on the game with the replacement I needed.

However, on my Gofers, the existing chip doesn't seem to list one or the other of 62256 or 6264. Anyone have an idea or recommendation for which NVRAM chip to purchase?

NGG RAM.JPG

I choose not to NVRAM because I wasn't comfortable soldering in a socket. I did un-solder the battery holder from the board and install a remote one in the bottom behind the speaker.

Your chip is a 6264 equivalent. So you can replace it with the 6264 NVRAM.

Relatively easy to figure out on the non-typical part numbers. Googling "LH5160-10L" brings up some data sheets / summaries in the first few search results. If you see 8K x 8 mentioned, that's a 6264 equivalent part.... your LH5160-10L is a 6264. If it was 32K x 8 that would be a 62256.

You can use FM1608-120-PG, which are a direct replacement for the chip on your board. These chips cost about $2 on Ebay and AliExpress. This link has a lot of information about getting those chips and putting them in WPC games https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/nvram-experience and this link for photos doing a NGG: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/nvram-experience#post-2798593.

One thing to keep in mind is that the traces on WPC MPU boards are delicate and can be pulled easily. If you are to going to do this yourself, remove the old chip by cutting of all the legs and remove them one by one. Make sure to add a socket for the new chip. Don't worry about saving the old chip -- if you want an old one, just PM me and I'll mail you one that I've pulled.

Thanks for everyone's replies, all really helpful. I have done WPC-95 games before and know how delicate the traces are so I'm not intimidated by the board and solder work. NVRAMs are the best solution in my opinion if you don't mind doing a little extra work. Pinitech also includes the socket (already included in the price of the chip) if you so choose that option during checkout.

I'll have to look into these. They work just as any other NVRAM chip? The chip itself on my game is good, just want to eliminate batteries altogether.

Does anyone know when the red dome above the upper flipper is supposed to illuminate? It is not listed in the manual lamp or flasher locations and does not light up through lamp, flasher, or GI tests.

NGG Red Dome (resized).jpg

Yes, they are the "original" NVRAM chip for standard battery powered RAM in WPC. Most of the ones you buy online are pulls from old equipment (copy machines, I think). The new chips with adapter boards are made by various people here because those old chips became very, very rare due to not being manufactured (before old pulls were available). It is up to you which way you want to go, I've been running FM1608-120-PG in all of my games for years without any problem. You may get a bum chip (I've had one in the nearly 100 I've purchased), but if you socket it, it is easy to swap with another (and you might as well purchase 5 for $10).

If you have the skills to remove the old chip, NVRAM is the way to go. In the long run, it is cheaper than batteries with zero chance of battery leaks (yes, remote holder does keep the board safe, but if they leak, it can still make a mess.) The only downside with NVRAM is that the time will not be kept in sync with the real world as the game's internal clock only works when there is power. For NGG, that is not a big deal, but for some games with a midnight madness mode or a real clock on the playfield, it can annoy some people. These games have a midnight madness mode that is triggered at midnight:

Congo
Dirty Harry
Johnny Mnemonic
Junk Yard
NBA Fastbreak
Who Dunnit

And Twilight Zone has a clock that shows the real time when it is turned on.

I am that moron (and have repaired way too many games due to battery leakage. . . )

I am in agreeance with both of these statements. I used to have remote battery packs on my games but became too much of a hassle to write down when the batteries were changed, throwing away dead batteries, buying new ones, checking voltage to see if only one battery is bad, etc.

Although I will say that some board work can be intimidating to some people, which is totally fine. And if that's the case, remote battery packs are a totally viable option and way better than leaving the batteries on the board. If you ever sell you game, the next owner will be very pleased to know you at least did something to take the batteries off the board.

Guys I have no idea why people are still talking about remote battery packs. Put in Lithium AA batteries last very very long and can NEVER leak. NVRAM only other opinion. Leave them on the board get rid of the pack.

It illuminates at various times, but I believe that it is tied to the right spinner insert flasher (not the spinner insert GI light).

Robert

Rip Off Multiball

What are the goals of Rip off Multiball?

Turn a 2 ball multi ball into a potential 5 ball multi ball by repeat hits to the captive ball.

Is it the same upper left ramp for jp's during that? Been a while since I've played.

I did some investigation today and you are correct, it's tied to flasher 20 the right spinner. I cleaned up the contact a bit and mine is working again. Thanks

I finally made a Pinduino kit for No Good Gofers! I really like how this came out. Addressable LEDs are mounted to the ramps facing towards the middle of the playfield and do a great job of lighting the game up!

Code is open source: https://github.com/elyons/professor_pinball_pinduino_sketches/tree/master/No-Good-Gofers

And you can get a plug and play kit from my pinside store: https://github.com/elyons/professor_pinball_pinduino_sketches/tree/master/No-Good-Gofers

Or make your own (Pinduino needed): https://docs.google.com/document/d/11dvWLn5GuwVkKGALNcZdN98K1qqAlEKzqyIpqNevzU4/edit

Lights off:
IMG_6831.JPG (resized).jpeg

Lights on:
IMG_6832.JPG (resized).jpeg

Hey everyone! New member here. Just picked up the game on Saturday!

Looking forward to dialing this thing in and getting familiar with the game.

AFCAAEF7-7861-4403-8594-FFEA43495C9C (resized).jpeg

F009F59F-F90E-4B32-945A-8E44789D2089 (resized).jpeg

D2443C6F-8F2B-431D-BA07-CCAA647D81AB (resized).jpeg

Also, looking for some recommendations on lighting/spotlight kits. I will re-do the GI with brighter lights but still might need some LED strips or spotlights.

Welcome to the club. NGG is a family and guest favorite at my house. Each his own, but if you go all LED on the game (including GI and spots) it should be plenty bright without the need for LED strips or additional spotlights. Enjoy the game!

Ok thanks guys, I will do some quick replacements for the GI and give it a go!

comet 2smd works just fine.Can play in the dark

A few more questions,

-the slam ramp doesn’t seem to be going up enough. Is there anything I can adjust or tweak? I haven’t gone under to look at it just yet

-is there any way to get the daily high score default any lower? It’s at 15 mil right now.

Does anyone have a tip on adjusting the ball guide at the end of the shooter lane so that it shoots cleanly up the left ramp?

Mine shoots high and hits the upper post at the left ramp (both manual and autoplunges). I've bent the end of the ball guide inward which fixes the problem for maybe one game then the problem returns.

You can loosen up the nuts that hold the ball guide from under the play field. The holes are big enough to allow for adjustments. I had the same problem when I first got my game.

Well....I'm not sure how I missed that easily identifiable slotted hole under the playfield that is designed for ball guide adjustment!!! Much thanks for pointing me in the right direction, it was a 30 second fix and now plays perfectly. When adjusting I noticed a washer imprint well up the slot where I ultimately moved and tightened the nut, so it seems this nut came loose over time and the ball guide slowly moved out of position.

I have had my NGG machine for about a month, has been working great.

Last night the slam ramp got stuck in down position. Looked for anything obvious but not sure of the issue. Does the spring alone push it back up? When I fiddled with it under the playfield the spring was not strong enough to push it up.

Thanks for any help,
Mike

Any pics of this,don’t think I’ve seen this mod.

Damn it I forgot about that a long time ago.Thats pretty crazy

Anyone ever have a problem when the spinning wheel awards a Players Choice and the flippers won't stop the wheel and progress the game to give the award?

I just started having this issue and the machine starts going into a ball search, the music doesn't change, and it forces a reset.

I didn't see anything missing or loose under the playfield.

Finally replaced the stock RAM with an NVRAM (I asked about it a few months back on here, but just haven't had much time to mess with games in a while.)

Since the stock RAM is soldered onto the board and not socketed, I clipped the legs of the RAM with a pair of dikes (diagonal pliers), then used the solder sucker to remove the solder. This system worked really well, the sucker actually sucked the cut legs right up with the solder with relative ease. If anyone is worried about board work because of the delicate traces on these WPC boards, this is a great technique to really minimize the changes of damaging those traces.

I wish I had taken some pictures along the way, but I had been putting it off for so long that I just did it without really thinking of taking pictures. Just thought I would relay some info to hopefully make things easier for anyone else thinking about NVRAM, but too nervous to do so because of the fine traces on the board.

Anyone have tips for diagnosing and dealing with a switch 45 right popper jam error?

If that happened to me,I would be compelled to reseat some of the ribbon cables and I'm far from being any good at trouble shooting.

This game is on my wishlist. Would love to find one near me.

I have one on the pinside market. I checked your over 400 miles away. Not so close

I didn't get a response for this, so I will try again

Sometimes the ball ever so slightly nicks the slam ramp after the ramp goes back up. Only happens once in a while. Are there any suggestions? I'm thinking...

-replace slam ramp spring
-rebuild mech
-??

I bought new slam ramp protectors and they are quite thick so it might get worse after those are installed

My ramp orriginally had the same problem, I replaced the spring and put a little bit of Super Lube on the post, now it always goes all the way up.