(Topic ID: 135989)

Atlantis cab re-spray


By BCpinhead

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 48 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by bznhvx
  • Topic is favorited by 8 Pinsiders

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#1 3 years ago

Hi, it has been awhile. Game has been played pretty regular and is a favourite. You may remember that I picked this up not working for super cheap. At the time I really did not know how cool this machine is, and really started the pin fun (addiction) here.

So the cabinet was shamed before I got it with thick blue oil based paint. I ordered the stencils from thisoldgame long ago when our can $ was worth a bit more as I knew I needed them, others on here gave me good advice and spoke highly of them. I finally have some free time to get this re-spray started ...I hated to see the blue cab.

Started with 120 grit and hand held orbital sander today...

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#2 3 years ago

good luck! Great game. Pretty soon we will have pfs too!

#3 3 years ago

You can see I left the side rails on. I'm really wanting to keep them on for the main reason i'm very concerned that I will dent them taking the nails out and I simply cannot buy new ones. They are flawless now and scratching and bending them would really really suck. Are they glued on too? Or just nailed?

I need to keep this a very simple project and not get all ADD and order new Chrome and bits and get side tracked. I'm confident I can mask around the side rails but if there is a simple method of taking them off and they are not glued, then maybe I should take them off. I ran out of time and did snap pic but cab and backbox are sanded down to bare wood now.

#4 3 years ago

Most of the corners on the inside of the cab and the backbox (the little wooden pieces stapled in) are loose or cracked or both. I will take some pics tomorrow am but I'm puzzled what to do to try and reinforce the corners.

Getting the backglass out was a real pain and very nerve wracking. One section about 8" long was glued into the wood frame by a previous owner so I had to slowly cut it away with a small razor knife. The glass seems good with a few small wear holes in it, no cracks. Around the score reel windows you can see oily grime on the silkscreening. If I wanted to spray the triple thick, how do I clean up the glass enough for decent adhesion?

I could just leave as-is but the ancient fuzzy bits that help avoid wear holes in the silkscreen just turn to dust when you touch them ...what does one do to , try to scrape as much fuzz off, then replace? I was thinking of using fuzzy side self adhesive Velcro.
Thanks for your advice.

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#5 3 years ago

Someone posted a long while ago on how to take those nails out. Ask vid1900.

#6 3 years ago
Quoted from BCpinhead:

Most of the corners on the inside of the cab and the backbox (the little wooden pieces stapled in) are loose or cracked or both. I will take some pics tomorrow am but I'm puzzled what to do to try and reinforce the corners.

Get the HD metal leg corner braces from Marco.

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from BCpinhead:

You can see I left the side rails on. I'm really wanting to keep them on for the main reason i'm very concerned that I will dent them taking the nails out and I simply cannot buy new ones. They are flawless now and scratching and bending them would really really suck. Are they glued on too? Or just nailed?
I need to keep this a very simple project and not get all ADD and order new Chrome and bits and get side tracked. I'm confident I can mask around the side rails but if there is a simple method of taking them off and they are not glued, then maybe I should take them off. I ran out of time and did snap pic but cab and backbox are sanded down to bare wood now.

Good side rails info:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/removing-side-rails

#8 3 years ago

The side rails are not glued, only held with twist nails.

That pedestal for the backbox also comes off (held in with two screws). Easier to repaint it on its own then.

The old foam on the backglass can just be crumbled away/off with your finger, leaving just the base tape part. Leave that part in place. Unless there's evidence of the ink already lifting/flaking, I wouldn't seal the glass.

The wood corner pieces can be knocked out and reglued/replaced.

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from BCpinhead:

You can see I left the side rails on. I'm really wanting to keep them on for the main reason i'm very concerned that I will dent them taking the nails out and I simply cannot buy new ones. They are flawless now and scratching and bending them would really really suck. Are they glued on too? Or just nailed?
I need to keep this a very simple project and not get all ADD and order new Chrome and bits and get side tracked. I'm confident I can mask around the side rails but if there is a simple method of taking them off and they are not glued, then maybe I should take them off. I ran out of time and did snap pic but cab and backbox are sanded down to bare wood now.

Take the side rails off before painting or we will ban you from pinside!

#10 3 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Take the side rails off before painting or we will ban you from pinside!

Lol!! Thats what I figured. Fair enough, they will come off today. Steve furys advice on the other thread on how to remove them seems straight forward.

Thanks for the great information everyone. I'll have a bunch of fiddly work before painting with rebuilding those corner blocks but it has to be done. Will have to recut some blocks, then use polyurethane wood glue and staples. That is the plan anyways...

#11 3 years ago

Prep is 90% of a good paint job. I do a lot of bondo and sanding to fix up those dings and scratches.

Again good luck. the first one is the hardest. Its usually 30-40 hours for me to strip, fix, repaint, clean, rebuild.

Ken

#12 3 years ago

30-40 hours about the same for me. But that includes tracing & cutting stencils. I think I learned that less is more when it comes to webbing. Have not tried Montana yet or another trick is to spray Krylon after heating the can in the sun to thin it out

#13 3 years ago

I am facing my first paint job with the Bowling Queen I am picking up later this week. Is there one thread or link you would recommend for a newbie? (By the way, I am getting good stencils, so that base is covered, but everything else is a bit of a mystery to me at this point.) Thanks.

#14 3 years ago

Craig,

Talk to Pinhead52 he's helped me out quite a bit . I'm also on RGP that's where I know some of these guys from. I was Wedgehead Killer until Google changed my name to my email acct.

Delta

#15 3 years ago

Thanks. I'll be in touch once I have the pin and have some time to deal with it. Much appreciated.

#16 3 years ago

We is here to help!

#17 3 years ago

And the key to a good webbing. This little touch-up sprayer from HR

http://www.harborfreight.com/touch-up-air-spray-gun-66871.html

Spray Krylon webbing into res., cut it with lac thinner and 60 lbs on the compressor and you get this

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#18 3 years ago

Ken,

I'm Wedgehead Killer from RGP.

Had health issues in family still unraveling that medical cluster mess. But I will get those Flipper Pools done in the near future.

Bryan

#19 3 years ago

Some great follow up info and questions from others thanks everyone. Good to see others fixing up the classic EMs.
The side rails are off...they were not too bad to take off. That was a good move to do.

I'm starting with the backbox as the corners are the bottom corners are the worst. Definitely evidence of torquing / pulling the backbox forward towards the flippers thereby cracking both lower corner joints as shown in pics.

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#20 3 years ago

Woodwork finishing is not my forte. I went to the chainsaw school of wood working. Lol..

What's your thoughts on how to fill in the outside corners where the wood seems to have been ripped away. I 'm really hoping to not take the joint completely apart....but.....? I guess I have to pull the nails in order to "rework" the split joints.

Was thinking to glue new blocks on the inside lower corners, clamp, shoot new staples and retap in the nails on the outside, then fill the gaps on the outside with plastic wood filler (then sand down, then primer). Solid plan?

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#21 3 years ago

I like screws (stainless) over nails...but yea other than making a new whole side thats what I'd do.

#22 3 years ago

You have to be sure the alignment is tight then loosen it enough to glue and screw. If the old blocks are there glue and screw again. I suggest you predrill the blocks before screwing so they don't split.

Use a two part wood filler to cover the screws and fill gaps and imperfections. Sand it down and then paint.

#23 3 years ago

Anybody use any of this stuff?

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In the cabinet shop, we use 2P-10 thin for hairline cracks and the medium for structural cracks that need to be held together for strength. The 3M epoxy we use for filling bigger holes, mostly knots in stained wood but sometimes for paint.

#24 3 years ago

Nothing wrong with advice offered it all works but no need to spend money on that fix if you have some screws glue and a wood pile.

I make sure the wood can go back in place the way you want by cleaning out any particles first. drill and countersink for some wood/drywall screws. Use a liberal amount of wood glue (not gorilla) in the joint and screw together. Wipe any glue that comes out up and clamp and leave overnight. Glue in new wood blocks in morning from any wood pile suitable piece. Use bondo for filling, edging and sand until perfect. Prime and paint. It will be stronger than the original joint.

#25 3 years ago

Wood glue eh?
Thanks Steve. That really jives with what I was trying to figure out. The order or sequence in which to go about the fixes. Makes sense to set up the frame where needed, glue and clamp w screws as needed. Let dry. Then tackle new corner blocks.

I'd never be able to track down 3M specialty products out here in booney-ville (but it's all good), plus you need a special gun to apply them , those 2 part ones anyways but thanks for suggesting them...I'm sure they wood be absolutely bomber as adhesive.

So wood glue and a few screws it is. Definitely need some predrilling too. Regarding the main cabinet, I was thinking of making or getting some thin alum plates to use as "backing plates" to glue on the 45 corner pieces that the legs bolt into -on mine the narrow steel threaded plates are very bent (I'll straighten them) but they have been reefed on over the years and therefore cracked 2 of the 45 wood corner brace pieces in 1/2. If I have to use a nut on very inside so be it. (The alum plates would be drilled to accommodate the leg bolts.). The cab is pretty straight and actually not loose like the backbox so really don't want to take the cracked 45s out....i know this is a short cut but ... I can feel some frowns out there... I plead the time management defence.
I
Oh yea, and bondo....why is everyone using bondo? no one uses plastic wood filler? I bought a can of plastic wood filler but maybe it is not the best to use. I can source bondo tho living in the winter salt-belt. Lol...

#26 3 years ago

Bondo sets up in 15 mins hard enough to sand. It sticks quite well and seems not to shrink. It's a quick easy product that you can apply, sand, reapply to an edge, sand etc etc and be happy with the finished product in short order and get on with the priming.

#27 3 years ago

This style replacement leg bolt bracket sounds like what you need....
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=144

Quoted from BCpinhead:

Wood glue eh?
Thanks Steve. That really jives with what I was trying to figure out. The order or sequence in which to go about the fixes. Makes sense to set up the frame where needed, glue and clamp w screws as needed. Let dry. Then tackle new corner blocks.
I'd never be able to track down 3M specialty products out here in booney-ville (but it's all good), plus you need a special gun to apply them , those 2 part ones anyways but thanks for suggesting them...I'm sure they wood be absolutely bomber as adhesive.
So wood glue and a few screws it is. Definitely need some predrilling too. Regarding the main cabinet, I was thinking of making or getting some thin alum plates to use as "backing plates" to glue on the 45 corner pieces that the legs bolt into -on mine the narrow steel threaded plates are very bent (I'll straighten them) but they have been reefed on over the years and therefore cracked 2 of the 45 wood corner brace pieces in 1/2. If I have to use a nut on very inside so be it. (The alum plates would be drilled to accommodate the leg bolts.). The cab is pretty straight and actually not loose like the backbox so really don't want to take the cracked 45s out....i know this is a short cut but ... I can feel some frowns out there... I plead the time management defence.
I
Oh yea, and bondo....why is everyone using bondo? no one uses plastic wood filler? I bought a can of plastic wood filler but maybe it is not the best to use. I can source bondo tho living in the winter salt-belt. Lol...

#28 3 years ago
Quoted from stashyboy:

This style replacement leg bolt bracket sounds like what you need....
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=144

That bracket is overkill for an Atlantis.

PBR will have a more proper replacement for the leg bolt plate for your Atlantis. Include it/them in an order identifying the game it is for and they will provide it/them. I couldn't find a link on their website or I would have included it.

#29 3 years ago
Quoted from MikeO:

That bracket is overkill for an Atlantis.
PBR will have a more proper replacement for the leg bolt plate for your Atlantis. Include it/them in an order identifying the game it is for and they will provide it/them. I couldn't find a link on their website or I would have included it.

Yes, but he sounded like the corner needed reinforcement too. I will replace broken corner blocks and use original style brackets every time, but I don't mind the woodworking stuff.

#30 3 years ago

Here's some woodworking

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#31 3 years ago

I see room for one more clamp. Maybe two.

2 weeks later
#32 3 years ago

Seems like ages since last update.
everythng has been going well but 4 times as long as I thought. No rush though...
Base coat is on, but shiney so knocking that off w 3m pads before going any further. We used some bondo, automotive primer and base coat....very nice!

Question about speckles....just about to tackle that but, the original paint job....did the speckles go on the base coat THEN the stencil colours, or are the speckles on over top of the funky sea weed and fish scheme? Could someone please have a look on their machine and let me know? Thanks!!!
Edit...going to use a toothbrush and cup full of rattle ran gloss black.

#33 3 years ago

Splatter or webbing etc are always applied to the base coat.

Always

#34 3 years ago

Point of clarification for a relative newbie here (certainly a newbie to painting): is the base coat the color you see surrounding the stenils (usually an antique whiteish color), or are you guys describing a primer coat that goes on before that base paint color? Do you prime after doing bondo-sanding and then put on the base-paint coat, or is the base-paint coat all that goes on in terms of paint before you do the spatter or webbing and then the stencils? Thanks!

#35 3 years ago

I sand until it's smooth as an infants ass. Then I seal the wood with a latex sealer. I then spray antique white with a gun as the base coat. Most guys use Heritage White Krylon in rattle cans.

#36 3 years ago
Quoted from goldenboy232:

is the base coat the color you see surrounding the stenils (usually an antique whiteish color), or are you guys describing a primer coat that goes on before that base paint color?

Speckle or webbing go on top of base paint color. Anything you apply, primer or whatever, goes underneath the base color.

Stencils are the next direct step after speckles or webbing.

#37 3 years ago

Perfect thanks!
Agree above... sand until baby ass smooth

#38 3 years ago

Has anyone posted a video demonstrating webbing that you'd recommend? I think I can handle all the rest (he says), but I would love to see a good example of someone webbing. My quick search on YouTube didn't come up with anything.

#39 3 years ago

I think Atlantis was speckle and not webbing... ie get a firm bristle brush, dip it in black enamil paint then run your fingers across the bristles. (practice lots first).

as to webbing, Krylon black lava (used to be webbing) sprayed into the resivoir of a HF touchup sprayer, cut with lac thinner, 60 lbs of air and you get a nice fine webbing.

Here's a flipper cowboy I just did with this method. cut the webbing pretty good and you can get pretty fine
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the HF touchup sprayer
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#40 3 years ago

I used a new toothbrush and my small cap from my bondo container, filled it quarter full of spray paint.
I hummed and hawed this for awhile wondering what brush etc and did practice for a few seconds before just jumping in....really. felt strange approaching a beautiful cabinet fresh paint etc to mark it up w a toothbrush, but it worked absolutelyvgreat I think.

Start from a distance out ....you can always move in for heavier coverage. I did have one screw up on the face of the back box....nice prominent place!! I had too big a speckled blob that started to run and I panicked and wiped it w my finger....nice smear then resulted. Could not wipe w solvents as problems bigger and bigger....just chilled , clean up and dry....
Will have to lightly sand this out tomorrow...fingers crossed!

Also, another tip, I primed my brush after a fresh paint dip with a few strokes away from the target to get the heavy specks away, actually had quite a bit of control combined w how close you get. Also, work fast, the paint drys fast!! Gets heavier and heavier clogging up my fancy brush. Lol!!!!! Will post few pics shortly but still very pleased with this stage over with.

#41 3 years ago

A few pics

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#42 3 years ago

Doh!! That oops on the last photo sux. So close!
Sorry for the crappy pics ...I'll zoom in a bit tomorrow.
I had really hoped to tackle the stencils tomorrow and will probably start with the cab front if it is a nice day...the cab tuned out perfect so far so I can started with that, and try to rework the backbox section that's messed.
Finding a suitable green colour has been very tough by the way...

#43 3 years ago

Looks good, you are a born splatterer!

#44 3 years ago
Quoted from goldenboy232:

Point of clarification for a relative newbie here (certainly a newbie to painting): is the base coat the color you see surrounding the stenils (usually an antique whiteish color), or are you guys describing a primer coat that goes on before that base paint color? Do you prime after doing bondo-sanding and then put on the base-paint coat, or is the base-paint coat all that goes on in terms of paint before you do the spatter or webbing and then the stencils? Thanks!

Yes I meant the base colour coat (heirloom white). The primer is just that and yes I did use an automotive primer on bare wood / bondo that we mixed and my friend shot in his spray booth after bondo and lots of sanding (mostly hand sanding not orbital). Ditto with the base colour, no rattle cans. But I got tossed out of the shop today for better paying jobs so on my own with the 2 colours in rattle cans. Deep breath! Heading to Atlantis!!

#45 3 years ago

Then I will clearcoat it and cut polish it to take off the sheen with the auto body products we are using. Should last awhile!!

#46 3 years ago

The clear gloss seems to fade away in about a year so I leave the sheen, saves waxing.

#47 3 years ago

Thanks Steve that is very handy to know. Most likely I'll leave it then. Really looking forward to getting my game back in one piece.

#48 3 years ago
Quoted from BCpinhead:

I did have one screw up on the face of the back box....nice prominent place!! I had too big a speckled blob that started to run and I panicked and wiped it w my finger....nice smear then resulted. Could not wipe w solvents as problems bigger and bigger....just chilled , clean up and dry....
Will have to lightly sand this out tomorrow...fingers crossed!.

It's real tempting to try to fix an "over-blob" right away... but as you found, don't! If you let it dry, you can take a knife tip and scrape the blob off of the surface and presto... problem gone.

Mac

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