Superman
Atari, 1979You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider colsond3.
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Quoted from Casinorun:Anyone willing to send me a 300dpi or greater scan of their backglass?
I'm starting to work on this pin next, so if nobody sends one by then, I can. I'm also scanning the building plastic over the center drop bank, and might do a run of a few of them on the laser printer.
Quoted from pinballman3:I have a Superman machine that the F6 fuse blows just every so often. I can put a new one in it and have it on for hours and hours and then it will just blow randomly. It has blown playing the game. It has blown just setting not being played. It has never blown instantly. Anyone have an idea where would be the best place to look for this kind of problem? Thanks
Is the F6 the solenoids? Sounds like you have a short somewhere...or a switch that's shorting out. I'd start tracing wires that correspond to the fuse usage or load. Check whatever transistor corresponds on the solenoid / driver board also.
Quoted from pinballman3:The F6 fuse is to the GI circuit. Backbox and playfield coin door light. Maybe a GI socket shorting out randomly? I would think if it was a direct short it would blow fuse instantly.
You would think, but not always from what I've seen. I would check all the light sockets to make sure there's no proximal wires touching, lack of proper grounding or broken solder joint, etc.
Quoted from pinballman3:Thats what it was. Had a bunch of 44's in it. Thanks
Switching the bulbs out did fix your issue?
Anybody know if John's Jukes still works on these boards? I need my MPU worked on badly.
Quoted from Brandon101884:The rollover button needs replaced, It’s difficult to depress and it’s been holding the ball when it isn’t able to go through the turn. When I lifted the field I noticed the switch was bent. Before I try and straighten it I wanted to see if there was a replacement before I make things worse. Aside from that, the plastic is worn and rubbing when you press it, it’s definitely not smooth as the other ones. I removed the part and cleaned it, still not depressing correctly so I want to replace it.
Welcome to the club. If taking it completely apart and cleaning it didn’t work (which usually does), you can replace it. Did you try putting the playfield up, and working it yet? Push the rollover star down and back up with a finger on each side of the playfield and work it back-and-forth quickly and repeatedly. Loosen it up.
If not, Marco or Pinball Resource (PBR) has star rollover replacements. Check their sites first.
Quoted from Brandon101884:The next issue I’m having is with the bumper. It’s broken. The piece that the spring pushes up is broken in half.
You need to rebuild that whole pop assembly. It needs a new skirt, spring and yoke. The spring is caught up on the switch, it’s not positioned properly.
Quoted from Brandon101884:I’m also not sure of the name of this plastic piece but it’s cracked off, it still functions. It’s the one that illuminates the “S”.
It’s called a stand up target. Pinball Resource should have some, or just look around on the web.
Quoted from Brandon101884:what is the difference in bulbs? I see clear, white and soft white?
You probably want to go with cool white or soft white. Natural or sunlight bulbs will mirror incandescents better if you like that look. I would suggest buying a few different ones and trying them to see what you like.
Worked on my game a little, and wanted to try something different with the powder. Broke my flush snips, so still have to do the armor in the same red to match.
Here are some pics before and after.
495EF17D-9F79-46D9-AD03-B5E1E531B23B (resized).jpegE66C402F-AA47-4ECA-B2D1-9FF13D060143 (resized).jpeg251E5AF7-1343-46ED-BA68-1DF778290BFE (resized).jpeg5E769B5A-6FC8-4F98-B6EF-5C6A8F807819 (resized).jpeg1935F121-9394-42EA-8202-CC40E6A1105A (resized).jpeg86A2630B-00B9-470C-9BF4-FBF39D3FB5FD (resized).jpeg35953FD4-B68B-4603-88CB-7E8B8A8ABC94 (resized).jpegB94B19EA-49E8-4A42-BF74-372796B4B0A5 (resized).jpegB7907CAE-5FBB-4AC1-9ACE-2183A52E6F55 (resized).jpegAA1D72AA-99F3-4ED2-8EA2-4C441087B680 (resized).jpegAlso had a second backbox that was really nice, with some paint imperfections. Switched those over, reinforced the sides, repainted and clearcoated the bottom, touched up the game.
I still have the old backbox, which isn’t in horrible shape, in case somebody needs one. It does have a small chunk out of the upper left corner on the one side seen in the first pic below.
254CF89C-CEB4-44A6-92C3-2078D02462BB (resized).jpegE9E1D0FA-430E-43A1-9062-2A52C5CB2E44 (resized).jpeg230BDC73-42CE-4B06-9F99-A09CACB2A3D9 (resized).jpeg0260C158-1DC6-4500-810C-96C1DC6B30A1 (resized).jpeg8BAE3F02-41C8-4505-8667-51C73677F11F (resized).jpeg59179ADE-AA11-4595-8BAE-A4FEAC6EDEC3 (resized).jpeg73226B5D-8B06-48F3-86C3-F01DB10D7EB8 (resized).jpegFA014DA7-8347-4BF8-8055-75341BEDD553 (resized).jpegB03D68C2-EAF3-4ACE-87C1-F5313A13B987 (resized).jpeg68BDE257-6677-48D9-887A-520F60E40315 (resized).jpegQuoted from Brandon101884:Has anyone been able to reproduce the backglass?
On the positive side, BGresto remade them.
On the negative side, they don’t replicate the mirroring and substitute a grayish color for all the mirrored sections of reproduced glasses.
That’s the only thing that has stalled me from ordering one. Mine is really good, but it would definitely be nice to have a spare on hand, especially something unfaded that looks brand new.
I looked on Shay’s site, and he hasn’t remade it. He does the mirroring on his repro glasses but unfortunately no Sup listed. I know a few other people had scans earlier in the thread, but not sure if they ever had any actual glasses made.
And if you just want to save yours for now, check this out from Clay’s guides if you want to clear it.
Quoted from tberger:Where do people get red top and base ball riding butyrate posts or is there a good replacement. Many of mine are broken from getting old and brittle. Thanks for any help!
I didn’t see the exact part in a quick search, but you should be able to measure it with a micrometer or tape and order replacements from Marco. I have faceted posts on mine, which I think are original. If they are 1 3/16, these are it:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C-11562-20
They have other sizes. If you find a different size is actually right, post the link back here.
38FF5C76-E4F5-48A6-9893-A71CE7582F70 (resized).jpegQuoted from zerbam:the posts that he is asking about are the 2 piece posts that mount the return lanes by the flippers
Odd post. I’m assuming you mean the guides. Don’t see those on Marco. Maybe Pinrescue Australia?
C1260BC8-5496-4151-AAEC-78D88A98C5AE (resized).jpegQuoted from DRDAVE:If going LED make sure the stay alive switch is set to OFF then they won't flicker.
Will this stop the flickering when you put LEDs in the PF inserts as well?
I just finished my Superman a few weeks ago. All new posts, hardware, etc. Created a kit on Titan’s site with the rubbers I used.
https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/4848
Mostly red, some blue on the left near the pop, yellow at the top rollovers and plastic-matching rubber post caps in yellow, blue and red all around.
8E184024-8972-475C-BA09-9B3EF4B7CC7B (resized).jpegD615C893-94AB-4B56-8021-386834A69BC0 (resized).jpeg4EFDF56E-AD0B-4324-80BD-48D541035D33 (resized).jpegB05ADC1D-B8F8-4A0D-B9A7-86F182344328 (resized).jpeg6149F435-2F00-4EF6-9057-D03F486D2A5A (resized).jpeg649A1466-6AAC-4D87-878F-39B9861B692C (resized).jpegE7AD7F16-5A25-4CB6-8D17-9A180A599385 (resized).jpeg516C4310-DAE4-4CC6-9BCF-566AC506B66D (resized).jpegQuoted from MANTO1975:what is the going price for one of these machines, I have come across one but its not working, I haven seen it but if everything is there what would it be worth?
cheers
Not working could be tough...if the MPU is damaged at all. Depending on cosmetic condition...I would say anywhere between $800 - $1400 USD.
Quoted from Enron64:I just picked up an Atari Superman a few months back. Thanks to everyone’s posts and info on here has it has been very helpful. It was my first pin and has given me the fever.
Nice. Post a pic or two. Is it in good shape? Welcome to the hobby.
Quoted from Enron64:The cabinet has some wear and there is a bit of damage on the top left corner of the back glass. The play field has some wear around the pop bumpers.
Nice! Looks pretty damn good to me. Most Sups have at least a little wear around the pops.
Your backglass looks pretty good overall other than that left corner you pointed out. If it really starts to bother you, there are reproductions available from CPR for $250- $300, or in that ballpark.
The siderails and lockdown bars are always rusted or oxidized on Atari pins. One of the main reasons I powdercoated mine...they had some pretty bad spots.
My game is throughout the last few pages of this thread, and a few posts above. Just about done my restoration.
Great game to grab as your first. The second will soon follow. 
Atari games can be very difficult. I can repair many games on my own, but I actually enlist someone else to work on my Superman. He’s actually working on it right now again.
Thought it was bulletproof last time, and it ended up having an issue again.
Did you check the memory address decoder chip?
Quoted from Louie:I'm also looking for Superman pinball drop targets.
Pinrescue AUS sells new drop target decals. I’ve never seen actual drop targets for sale.
Quoted from Brandon101884:What is the glowing 25 cent piece in the center? Is it a coin return? I’m missing mine and can’t find it online to replace. What is the name of the part?
[quoted image]
It’s a price plate. Probably not the easiest part to find. Check with Steve at Pinball Resource. Or you could make one if you have access to a 3D printer.
It’s accessed by removing parts on the backside of the coin door. Held in by a bracket / plate. Here’s some pics from when I disassembled and restored my game.
599BC9F2-D441-4E7C-93CD-6A96A5BBEE8F (resized).jpegAD4FAFE1-4197-4B6A-9022-FD331680EC69 (resized).jpegDA9D1605-AA0F-4923-B043-1C905E44217B (resized).jpeg06AF1314-DDFC-4AD1-9DAD-71F98B6716E0 (resized).jpegQuoted from Zartan:This is the pin
Still have the problem? Did you check with Steve at PBR? He usually has obscure parts. I have a box of spare parts, but don't think I have a full drop assembly. I'll take a look tonight when I get home.
Quoted from Zartan:Colsond3
Yes, I have now fixed it I ordered a new pin. I have also ordered an LED kit. Hopefully that will resolve the light situation. The next thing I need to do is purchase a new pop bumper light fixture.
Lastly when I replaced my rod and ring set I over tightened the nut and snapped the post! I guess I learned the hard way the machine is 40 years old and needs a gentler hand!
Thank you
Jeff
Yes it does. And you don't want to break an Atari game. Not easy to fix when they go down, unless you have mountains of electronic experience. Congrats. Check back if you encounter any other issues.
Quoted from Maverick87:Some of my red playfield posts are chipping or falling apart. Are they just normal star posts? Or something else they seem kind of different.
Quoted from Zartan:Yes, Zerbam had me go to Marco’s. Just type red posts. They are identical!
Superman actually uses (OEM) 1 3/16” faceted posts. I replaced all of mine last shop job.
These are the correct posts:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C-11562-20
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Quoted from Diane_Sauer:Can anyone confirm if this is an Atari Superman lockdown bar? Thanks.
It looks to be. The holes are offset with the receiver and it looks like they match up.
5687FE4A-B422-45A8-8C05-AC9E63763E98 (resized).jpegQuoted from DragonLord:After switching to LEDs the 50 point rollovers stopped scoring. They still lights up.
As energyspike said, start with checking every switch that scores 50 points. Chances are the bottom leaf is just bent out too much and not making contact.
They will still light because there is just a bulb under them that’s always on under star rollovers. He probably bent the bottom leaf.
Check the solder joint on the lugs of the switch under the rollover that’s not working as well.
Quoted from tem92:Hoping someone might have some insight on this. The "M" on SUPERMAN stays lit when you start the game. I also have several lamp sockets out that read no voltage. Also, one of the pop bumpers light is out but the bumper works fine. It's only a few lights?
1. The leaf switch for the M is stuck, making contact or arcing. Adjust it and re-gap, that will resolve that issue.
2. The bulb is bad in the pop bumper, or the contacts on the socket aren’t adjusted properly. You can pry the bottom contact up with the game off, and crimp the sides in slightly and carefully with a pair of pliers, but lightly so you can still get a bulb in but snug.
Or worst case, one of the wires on the socket lugs (long prong) underneath the playfield most likely came off. The socket arms go down through two holes inside the pop body. Check and resolder the wires if necessary.
The light being out has no effect on the functionality of the pop mech itself.
Quoted from tem92:Thanks for the reply.
I Just checked the leaf switch on the "M". Gap seems ok. I adjusted it a little further but its still comes on as lit at the start of the Game. I will check the pop bumper. The weird thing is on the light of the "M", I am not getting any voltage to that light socket plus only a couple others. Any other ideas? I appreciate It.
Which are out? Any GI, or just controlled lamps?
Check the lamp matrix in the manual to see if all the lights that are out or have no voltage are on the same string or circuit. If they are, you’ll have to trace from the board. Could be a short, or burnt connector at the corresponding pin.
Also check the solder joints on the header pins for the controlling connector. I can check my manual tomorrow if you can’t.
What’s up man!! Sounds like a short. I don’t have a manual in front of me. Are all four switches that are out on the same matrix line?
Do you have the bridge rectifiers in the backbox soldered directly to the lugs? If not, test those with a DMM. They can be problematic with those crappy connectors that Atari used. Cause some weird issues.
I have a red powdercoated apron for Superman in my stash of parts that I never installed. If anybody is interested, let me know. I would be willing to ship it.
18715371-19A8-4008-899E-6C4971FBB0AF (resized).jpegA5F2734D-85D6-4071-9025-41C7EC80E309 (resized).jpegE19AA320-A080-4EDD-B883-019CB67454A1 (resized).jpegYou're currently viewing posts by Pinsider colsond3.
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Langhorne, PA