(Topic ID: 182908)

Atari Superman Group/Club (Everyone Welcome)


By Casinorun

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 91 posts
  • 26 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by DRDAVE
  • Topic is favorited by 22 Pinsiders

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There are 91 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 1 year ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

I'm starting to work on this pin next, so if nobody sends one by then, I can. I'm also scanning the building plastic over the center drop bank, and might do a run of a few of them on the laser printer.

Awesome man thank you!!

#52 1 year ago

All good... Ive answered my own question.
No brief flash on the LED's is wrong as game doesn't boot

1 week later
#53 1 year ago

I have a Superman machine that the F6 fuse blows just every so often. I can put a new one in it and have it on for hours and hours and then it will just blow randomly. It has blown playing the game. It has blown just setting not being played. It has never blown instantly. Anyone have an idea where would be the best place to look for this kind of problem? Thanks

#54 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballman3:

I have a Superman machine that the F6 fuse blows just every so often. I can put a new one in it and have it on for hours and hours and then it will just blow randomly. It has blown playing the game. It has blown just setting not being played. It has never blown instantly. Anyone have an idea where would be the best place to look for this kind of problem? Thanks

Is the F6 the solenoids? Sounds like you have a short somewhere...or a switch that's shorting out. I'd start tracing wires that correspond to the fuse usage or load. Check whatever transistor corresponds on the solenoid / driver board also.

#55 1 year ago

The F6 fuse is to the GI circuit. Backbox and playfield coin door light. Maybe a GI socket shorting out randomly? I would think if it was a direct short it would blow fuse instantly.

#56 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballman3:

The F6 fuse is to the GI circuit. Backbox and playfield coin door light. Maybe a GI socket shorting out randomly? I would think if it was a direct short it would blow fuse instantly.

You would think, but not always from what I've seen. I would check all the light sockets to make sure there's no proximal wires touching, lack of proper grounding or broken solder joint, etc.

#57 1 year ago

I had this exact issue and finally just went to LEDs and that resolved it. Also, recently in a Facebook group, a contributor said that using too many 44 bulbs could blow it as Atari originally used 47s which pulled less total amperage.

#58 1 year ago

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#59 1 year ago

Thats what it was. Had a bunch of 44's in it. Thanks

#60 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballman3:

Thats what it was. Had a bunch of 44's in it. Thanks

Switching the bulbs out did fix your issue?

Anybody know if John's Jukes still works on these boards? I need my MPU worked on badly.

#61 1 year ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

Switching the bulbs out did fix your issue?
Anybody know if John's Jukes still works on these boards? I need my MPU worked on badly.

I live 30 minutes away from John Jukes, hes the Atari guru! Yes he still works on everything Atari.

#62 1 year ago
Quoted from Casinorun:

I live 30 minutes away from John Jukes, hes the Atari guru! Yes he still works on everything Atari.

Great, I just sent him an email. Thanks.

11 months later
#63 10 months ago

Hello,

I'm helping a friend fix up his Superman. We got everything working well. The last thing to fix up is the flippers. At some point it was rewired to eliminate the eos. This caused one coil to melt and a ton of damage to the flipper switches. I've managed to find coils (had to turn the diodes around,) but I'm having problems finding some other replacement parts. Any help would be appreciated.

I need switches for the flipper buttons themselves. Part number A020931-01. Does anyone know a replacement part number? Would any high voltage switch work?

I'd like to rebuild the flippers as well, if anyone knows alternate parts for the bushings that would be great.

Im thinking of the eos too. Part numbers 020923-01 and 020923-02.

On a long shot, I also need a coil stop. Part number A020401-01.

Thanks again in advance,
J

#64 10 months ago

What are the rules for bumping a thread?

#65 10 months ago

Flippers.com had the eos and even the coil stop i needed. Anyone have any experience ordering from them?

I'm still looking for the flipper switches. Again, if anyone has info on a replacement switch it would be greatly appreciated?

Thank you

#66 10 months ago

As far as i know, you should be able to use any high-current/tungsten cabinet flipper switches. Only difference might be the length of the switch leafs, you may have to reposition the switch if that's the case.

#67 10 months ago

Hello everyone, new guy here from Northern VA and a new pinball owner... I got my first Pinball Machine this week... SUPERMAN!!!! I’ve had it a few days now and I absolutely love it. It’s in pretty great shape, especially for its age. After playing for a few days I’ve noticed some issues that I’d like to resolve. I finally figured how to lift the play field today so I took a look around to see if I could troubleshoot some issues I’m having. Pretty minor stuff I think.

I defydo not know part names yet so I’ll do my best to describe what I’m trying to talk about.

The rollover button needs replaced, It’s difficult to depress and it’s been holding the ball when it isn’t able to go through the turn. When I lifted the field I noticed the switch was bent. Before I try and straighten it I wanted to see if there was a replacement before I make things worse. Aside from that, the plastic is worn and rubbing when you press it, it’s definitely not smooth as the other ones. I removed the part and cleaned it, still not depressing correctly so I want to replace it.

The next issue I’m having is with the bumper. It’s broken. The piece that the spring pushes up is broken in half.

The paper clip looking part is broken off. It still works, but I’d like to get a new one.

I’m also not sure of the name of this plastic piece but it’s cracked off, it still functions. It’s the one that illuminates the “S”.

I’ve got some burnt out bulbs that I want to replace and I’m considering going the LED route. I read that flipping the dip switch would stop the flickering issue that some have had. The posts are older, is this still holding up? Also, what is the difference in bulbs? I see clear, white and soft white? Is it personal preference or will they effect the board? I love playing in the dark so everything pops, What is recommendated?

Other than that I guess it’s going pretty well. I put two coats of Mill Wax on the field yesterday, it makes a pretty big difference. It could probably use a couple more.

When I flip it on, it makes some sounds and everything lights up, is there supposed to be a test that it runs through each time it starts up?

Anyway, looking forward to the replies and love the information so far from this place.

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3 weeks later
#68 10 months ago
Quoted from Brandon101884:

The rollover button needs replaced, It’s difficult to depress and it’s been holding the ball when it isn’t able to go through the turn. When I lifted the field I noticed the switch was bent. Before I try and straighten it I wanted to see if there was a replacement before I make things worse. Aside from that, the plastic is worn and rubbing when you press it, it’s definitely not smooth as the other ones. I removed the part and cleaned it, still not depressing correctly so I want to replace it.

Welcome to the club. If taking it completely apart and cleaning it didn’t work (which usually does), you can replace it. Did you try putting the playfield up, and working it yet? Push the rollover star down and back up with a finger on each side of the playfield and work it back-and-forth quickly and repeatedly. Loosen it up.

If not, Marco or Pinball Resource (PBR) has star rollover replacements. Check their sites first.

Quoted from Brandon101884:

The next issue I’m having is with the bumper. It’s broken. The piece that the spring pushes up is broken in half.

You need to rebuild that whole pop assembly. It needs a new skirt, spring and yoke. The spring is caught up on the switch, it’s not positioned properly.

Quoted from Brandon101884:

I’m also not sure of the name of this plastic piece but it’s cracked off, it still functions. It’s the one that illuminates the “S”.

It’s called a stand up target. Pinball Resource should have some, or just look around on the web.

Quoted from Brandon101884:

what is the difference in bulbs? I see clear, white and soft white?

You probably want to go with cool white or soft white. Natural or sunlight bulbs will mirror incandescents better if you like that look. I would suggest buying a few different ones and trying them to see what you like.

#69 10 months ago

Worked on my game a little, and wanted to try something different with the powder. Broke my flush snips, so still have to do the armor in the same red to match.

Here are some pics before and after.

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#70 10 months ago

Also had a second backbox that was really nice, with some paint imperfections. Switched those over, reinforced the sides, repainted and clearcoated the bottom, touched up the game.

I still have the old backbox, which isn’t in horrible shape, in case somebody needs one. It does have a small chunk out of the upper left corner on the one side seen in the first pic below.

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#71 9 months ago

Where do people get red top and base ball riding butyrate posts or is there a good replacement. Many of mine are broken from getting old and brittle. Thanks for any help!

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1 week later
#72 9 months ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

Welcome to the club. If taking it completely apart and cleaning it didn’t work (which usually does), you can replace it. Did you try putting the playfield up, and working it yet? Push the rollover star down and back up with a finger on each side of the playfield and work it back-and-forth quickly and repeatedly. Loosen it up.
If not, Marco or Pinball Resource (PBR) has star rollover replacements. Check their sites first.

You need to rebuild that whole pop assembly. It needs a new skirt, spring and yoke. The spring is caught up on the switch, it’s not positioned properly.

It’s called a stand up target. Pinball Resource should have some, or just look around on the web.

You probably want to go with cool white or soft white. Natural or sunlight bulbs will mirror incandescents better if you like that look. I would suggest buying a few different ones and trying them to see what you like.

Awesome, I appreciate the reply.

Your machine looks AMAZING!

Has anyone been able to reproduce the backglass?

#73 9 months ago
Quoted from Brandon101884:

Has anyone been able to reproduce the backglass?

On the positive side, BGresto remade them.

On the negative side, they don’t replicate the mirroring and substitute a grayish color for all the mirrored sections of reproduced glasses.

That’s the only thing that has stalled me from ordering one. Mine is really good, but it would definitely be nice to have a spare on hand, especially something unfaded that looks brand new.

I looked on Shay’s site, and he hasn’t remade it. He does the mirroring on his repro glasses but unfortunately no Sup listed. I know a few other people had scans earlier in the thread, but not sure if they ever had any actual glasses made.

#74 9 months ago

And if you just want to save yours for now, check this out from Clay’s guides if you want to clear it.

http://www.pinrepair.com/restore/index1.htm#bg

#75 9 months ago
Quoted from tberger:

Where do people get red top and base ball riding butyrate posts or is there a good replacement. Many of mine are broken from getting old and brittle. Thanks for any help!

I didn’t see the exact part in a quick search, but you should be able to measure it with a micrometer or tape and order replacements from Marco. I have faceted posts on mine, which I think are original. If they are 1 3/16, these are it:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C-11562-20

They have other sizes. If you find a different size is actually right, post the link back here.

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#76 9 months ago

the posts that he is asking about are the 2 piece posts that mount the return lanes by the flippers

#77 9 months ago
Quoted from zerbam:

the posts that he is asking about are the 2 piece posts that mount the return lanes by the flippers

Odd post. I’m assuming you mean the guides. Don’t see those on Marco. Maybe Pinrescue Australia?

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#78 9 months ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

Worked on my game a little, and wanted to try something different with the powder. Broke my flush snips, so still have to do the armor in the same red to match.
Here are some pics before and after.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Powder coat looks nice Coloson.

1 week later
#79 9 months ago

I believe I need either new springs, or a whole new kicker... Well, two of them. For the ball to eject it takes the kicker sometimes 10 times for it to project the ball far enough. The one in the Playfield ejects the ball, but with hardly any force. I’ve been looking on Marco specialties and there are over 30 pages of these things. Does anyone know which ones I need?

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3 months later
#80 5 months ago

Anybody have a playfield scan I can use to have an overlay made. I'd be interested in a back box too. My BG is pristine but the cab and of are trashed, idk how that even happens. The BG is the only reason I bought it off the guy for 300 bucks but the playfield looks like he let his dog touch it up, wrong colors and everything, not even an attempt at color matching whatsoever. Please help!

1 month later
#81 3 months ago

almost ready to put my N.O.S. clear coated playfield into the cabinet

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3 weeks later
#82 3 months ago

Good friends. I would like to join the club. Does anyone know of any superman in a state of collection or restored for sale in Europe? regards!!!!

2 months later
#83 15 days ago
Quoted from pinballman3:

The F6 fuse is to the GI circuit. Backbox and playfield coin door light. Maybe a GI socket shorting out randomly? I would think if it was a direct short it would blow fuse instantly.

(This is a repeat of a fix from earlier in this thread. Repeated here for emphasis.)

*FIX FOR GI FUSE BLOWING*
I had this EXACT problem as well. After I had replaced all the lighting (incl GI) with #44 instead of #47 which was installed at the factory for a reason.
Putting an amp meter in series with the GI fuse reveals that the 44's in the GI pull 11 amps. So no wonder that it blows the slow blow 10 amp fuse after bit when it warms up enough to do so. After all it is a slow blow fuse of course.
The fix is to go ALL #47's or go LED. If going LED make sure the stay alive switch is set to OFF then they won't flicker.

Hope that helps!

David
pinballdoctor.com

#84 15 days ago
Quoted from DRDAVE:

(This is a repeat of a fix from earlier in this thread. Repeated here for emphasis.)
*FIX FOR GI FUSE BLOWING*
I had this EXACT problem as well. After I had replaced all the lighting (incl GI) with #44 instead of #47 which was installed at the factory for a reason.
Putting an amp meter in series with the GI fuse reveals that the 44's in the GI pull 11 amps. So no wonder that it blows the slow blow 10 amp fuse after bit when it warms up enough to do so. After all it is a slow blow fuse of course.
The fix is to go ALL #47's or go LED. If going LED make sure the stay alive switch is set to OFF then they won't flicker.
Hope that helps!
David
pinballdoctor.com

Just to add so folks don't misread or make assumptions--don't use a standard multimeter on a circuit that is expecting 10amps or greater. Multimeters are typically rated for a maxiumum of 10 amps, so putting a multimeter on a 10+ amp circuit will likely blow the fuse inside the multimeter.

An amp meter is a different tool than a standard multimeter, and depending on the model, can usually safely handle 100amps or more.

#85 11 days ago
Quoted from DRDAVE:

If going LED make sure the stay alive switch is set to OFF then they won't flicker.

Will this stop the flickering when you put LEDs in the PF inserts as well?

#86 9 days ago

Yes. That switch setting is for the feature lights. The GI isn't affected by the switch setting (they are good with switch set to on or off).

#87 8 days ago
Quoted from DRDAVE:

Yes. That switch setting is for the feature lights. The GI isn't affected by the switch setting (they are good with switch set to on or off).

Cool. Thanks Dave.

#88 6 days ago

Hey guys have a question about the Superman Backglass... does it have any sort of plastic trim on it? Id even like some close up pictures of how it's held in the frame of the head... My friend's game has NO trim on it and it seems to be held in kinda sketchy with some screws kinda pushing against it. Hard to describe...

We have a new CPR Backglass coming so if any of you guys have some pics of how it's held in there, I'd love to see it even.

Make sure we can keep that thing as nice as possible as long as possible

#89 6 days ago

Just moved a refurbed Superman working well and upon set up / putting the head and re-hooking up the connections, no displays.

No fuses blown. Thinking it must be a connector issue as when I took the suspect head over to a known working other Superman cabinet, all displays now work in this suspect head.

I'm thinking the issue is now cabinet wiring related either with the bottom connector that goes on MPU J2 connector or the J44 cube connector that goes to the power distribution board. Also could be the Transformer itself or it's connector as all these are cabinet domain items that the displays are dependent on.

Anyone else ever have a no display issue in the Superman and your fix?

#90 5 days ago

This is a shill post.

Dr. Dave takes the above posts and puts it into words.

Take a listen to us on our latest podcast: Atari Superman. The Classic Pinball Podcast.

#91 5 days ago

Nice opening music selection George. Very appropriate. =)

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