(Topic ID: 182908)

Atari Superman Group/Club (Everyone Welcome)


By Casinorun

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 91 posts
  • 26 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by DRDAVE
  • Topic is favorited by 22 Pinsiders

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There are 91 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 2 years ago

With parts being so hard to find, and there being so few Supermans left, I felt a group/club where people can come to ask questions or advice on fixing or finding parts would be beneficial to all of us owners.

#2 2 years ago

i have a superman pin.....it was my first pin.......i do have some spare parts.....some to keep.......some i may sell
let me know what is needed

#3 2 years ago

Im looking for info on cabinet restoration, as far as paint goes, what type should I use.

#4 2 years ago

Someone needs to repro the center drop target bank plastic,
as those are always broken or chipped.

pasted_image (resized).png

#5 2 years ago

Wishing I could find a Superman. Hope it's ok I watch this group!

#6 2 years ago
Quoted from indy5mike:

Wishing I could find a Superman. Hope it's ok I watch this group!

This group is open to everyone

#7 2 years ago

I wish the left side shot back to the top
(Fortress of Solitude)
was worth more
maybe have the star rollover near the top exit to
maybe spot a letter in Superman.

#8 2 years ago

I'm in. I actually have two--a HUO that needs some work, and a great player that I had restored (best Superman I've ever played, but the restorer did a crappy job clearing it and the paint is peeling off around the pops--still a gem and works flawlessly).

#9 2 years ago

What are some people's high scores on this game?

#10 2 years ago

My machine is set to high score to date, but not registering any high scores, anybody have any idea why not?

#11 2 years ago
Quoted from Casinorun:

My machine is set to high score to date, but not registering any high scores, anybody have any idea why not?

Mine had this issue when I got it, but it was also exhibiting other strange behavior (losing track of which ball it was on most notably). In my case, the fuse block was the problem, and while it appeared the fuses were in tightly they actually did not have good connection and so there was some intermittent behavior. All the scoring/tracking issues resolved when they were tightened up. My other thought would be the batteries (in my case we'd already changed to an external holder and were still having issues).

Only part that has frustrated me in terms of acquisition are the white octagon stand-up targets. I have a broken one that I'd like to replace but they seem mostly out of stock (at least in that color). I think I saw a place in Canada with them, but since mine still works (just doesn't look great) I've held off.

I really lucked out on Superman; the person I got it from said he got it from another home owner in 1981 and had kept it in his basement ever since. The wear on it suggested it was on location at some point before then, but I was surprised at how nice it looked given what I was expecting when I was told it didn't work right (it was free, so I really expected a total train wreck).

My high score is 542,980. I believe I have special set as a 60,000 point award. Extra balls were enabled.

#12 2 years ago
Quoted from DennisK:

Only part that has frustrated me in terms of acquisition are the white octagon stand-up targets.

Have you tried searching for these targets from a Gen 1 machine? A set of 3 white stand up targets just sold on eBay for $4.50+shipping a few days ago. They were from a Gen 1 machine but some of those parts will work on Superman.

Thanks to casinorun for starting this group

#13 2 years ago
Quoted from gradient9:

Have you tried searching for these targets from a Gen 1 machine? A set of 3 white stand up targets just sold on eBay for $4.50+shipping a few days ago.

Yes, I almost went for it but while the photo was of 3 the narrative indicated only one target. Sold before I learned which count was accurate.

1 week later
#14 2 years ago

Has anyone tried led's in their Superman? Just bought some today and I am pretty happy with results.

IMG_5926 (resized).JPG

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#15 2 years ago
Quoted from Casinorun:

Has anyone tried led's in their Superman? Just bought some today and I am pretty happy with results.

I've been contemplating this but saw that LEDs won't work on the entire machine. I believe only the GI, correct? Thanks for the before and after.

#16 2 years ago
Quoted from gradient9:

I've been contemplating this but saw that LEDs won't work on the entire machine. I believe only the GI, correct? Thanks for the before and after.

Yeah they work on GI, and back box, they still work for inserts but they flicker like crazy.

#17 2 years ago

I put LEDs in the GI and backbox. Just white ones I had leftover from other projects. I like the games brighter for playing in the dark. Never tried the inserts (I know Gen 1 Atari used warming current so LEDs are a no-go, I saw a few of those in the backbox on Superman, despite being Gen 2 I guess they used it sometimes, and didn't want to mess with trying to get the inserts going since I have nothing around non-ghosting and the GI was what I really wanted brighter).

#18 2 years ago
Quoted from Casinorun:

Yeah they work on GI, and back box, they still work for inserts but they flicker like crazy.

Is the flicker on the inserts any worse than the regular bulb flicker? I've got an issue with the GI fuse blowing so I might swap with LEDs when I get around to troubleshooting that. Any recommendations for LEDs? What brand did you guys use?

#19 2 years ago
Quoted from gradient9:

Is the flicker on the inserts any worse than the regular bulb flicker? I've got an issue with the GI fuse blowing so I might swap with LEDs when I get around to troubleshooting that. Any recommendations for LEDs? What brand did you guys use?

Mine are from pinballbulbs.com. I used all frosted, and the main bulb I used was frosted cool white. Oh and the flicker is like a "Warning flashing lights can cause seizures" kind of flicker.

#20 2 years ago

I used Comet brand. All frosted. I try to use warm white under the warmer colors (reds, yellows) and cool white under the cooler colors (blues, greens). Their sunlight white option works good under everything (I've used those exclusively on some other backglass swaps I've done), but honestly I think any shade of white is safe. I think cool white throws light the farthest, and I know others who always use it for GI for that reason, regardless of the color of the plastic above.

Any white will look clean. No clown puke risks.

1 week later
#22 2 years ago

If anyone has an extra Superman backglass, or knows someone who does, I am in need of a new one.

#23 2 years ago

Can anyone take a good picture of their backglass so I can use it for reference, with machine off.

#24 2 years ago
Quoted from Casinorun:

Can anyone take a good picture of their backglass so I can use it for reference, with machine off.

Here are several that I've archived for reference.

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#25 2 years ago

Thanks a lot, your Superman looks like it is in excellent shape.

#26 2 years ago
Quoted from Casinorun:

Thanks a lot, your Superman looks like it is in excellent shape.

Ha! The top one is mine. The others were from an eBay listing that was immaculate. I saved them for reference/motivation.

#27 2 years ago

Just had my backglass reproduced at my local sign shop, the quality of it is awesome, but the guy made it look to dark, the image I submitted was the original that machine comes with, what are your opinions???

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1 week later
#28 2 years ago

Is the mirroring there or could they not do it? I am asking because I was going to have a new one made myself.

#29 2 years ago
Quoted from PromoJoe23:

Is the mirroring there or could they not do it? I am asking because I was going to have a new one made myself.

No mirroring would have cost way to much.

1 month later
#30 2 years ago

Just figured out something pretty kool, as long as you don't have "keep alive" option set on your dip switches you can LED entire machine without flickering, discovered it completely by accident LOL!!! I love when that kind of stuff happens.

#31 2 years ago
Quoted from Casinorun:

Just figured out something pretty kool, as long as you don't have "keep alive" option set on your dip switches you can LED entire machine without flickering, discovered it completely by accident LOL!!! I love when that kind of stuff happens.

Wow, how could that be?

#32 2 years ago

Really? It can't be that easy. After all this time and discussions about warming circuit for bulbs and not getting past the design...you flip a dip switch and
I gotta try this!
-Mike

#33 2 years ago

Lol im telling you, my entire machine now has LED's in it, no flickering, and thats all I did. Will post pics

#34 2 years ago

So I put led's in my GI to start as I was under the impression that led's only worked in GI and back box in Atari pins. Then I tested the pop bumpers with led's. My pop bumpers flickered like crazy with Led's installed in them, I almost needed a "WARNING!! Pop bumpers may cause seizures" sign on my machine. Got used to it and just stopped paying attention. The other day I decided to try and figure out what the "keep alive" feature was all about, so I shut it off, as it has always been set to the "on" position, and BANG no more flickering pop bumper led's. So I installed led's in all the rest of the inserts and it looks awesome, ZERO FLICKERING everything is the same as incandescent lighting.

#35 2 years ago

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1 week later
#36 2 years ago
Quoted from Grizlyrig:

Really? It can't be that easy. After all this time and discussions about warming circuit for bulbs and not getting past the design...you flip a dip switch and
I gotta try this!
-Mike

The PinWiki guide on Atari machines does talk about this. I'll put the link below, but the warming circuit issue was a Generation 1 trait that couldn't be circumvented (well, without changing how you power the lights). Since Superman is Generation 2, they can be done (it mentions the dip switch):
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Atari_Repair#LEDs

I've been meaning to get around to doing the rest of the playfield, I only did the backbox and GI (I was a bit short on LEDs at the time).

4 months later
#37 2 years ago

Would anyone be willing to send me a hi res scan of their backglass, would be greatly appreciated.

1 week later
#38 2 years ago

Thinking about picking up a Suoerman. Wonder what things to look at/for when I go view. What would any current owners suggest? Should I be worried about the lack of available parts?

Doesn’t get much love on the Pinside ratings list and I have never played it but it looks fine from the layout.

#39 2 years ago
Quoted from pinchamp:

Thinking about picking up a Suoerman. Wonder what things to look at/for when I go view. What would any current owners suggest? Should I be worried about the lack of available parts?
Doesn’t get much love on the Pinside ratings list and I have never played it but it looks fine from the layout.

In my experiences of owning one for 3 years, I'd say the parts not available notion is somewhat of a myth. You're not going to be able to go on Marcos and order everything you need right away but they come up on eBay from time to time. Some can be expensive as well but they are out there, you've just got to ask around. I'd bet that people on this thread could provide a lot of the parts you'd be looking for. That's where most of the parts I needed came from.

If you need board work, there's someone in Houston area I believe that does repairs. I think they also offer the service on eBay. Some connectors might need replaced but that's common with older games like this.

Also, keep in mind that aside from the game specific pieces, boards and some of the other playfield mechanics, most of the pieces used are the same from an Atari System 1. I grabbed a few common pieces, siderails and a lockdown bar from an old Airbourne Avengers that was infested with mice.

Good luck in your hunt

#40 2 years ago

Do it. But, be prepared to haggle hard. Week flipper, pay less. Green faded on back glass, pay less. Cracked center plastic-pay less. If it's going to need board work, pay less-you'll probably need to send it to Johns Jukes for work, unless you know an Atari expert.

If you get it up an running and playing well, it's a killer game. All the crappy reviews are from poorly maintained machines with weak flippers and poorly maintained pf's. Clean it up and get the flippers fixed, and it's a tremendous game.

#41 2 years ago
Quoted from pinchamp:

Thinking about picking up a Suoerman. Wonder what things to look at/for when I go view. What would any current owners suggest? Should I be worried about the lack of available parts?
Doesn’t get much love on the Pinside ratings list and I have never played it but it looks fine from the layout.

It can take some scavenging to find Atari parts. Some are available, a few have been remade (such as coils), and some pop up on ebay occasionally.

If boards are missing or in rough shape, you will have to look long and hard for replacements. The backglass is unavailable, but I think bgresto.com remakes it (but without the mirroring). Cabinet stencils are available from pinballpimp.com.

#42 2 years ago
Quoted from pinchamp:

Thinking about picking up a Suoerman. Wonder what things to look at/for when I go view. What would any current owners suggest? Should I be worried about the lack of available parts?
Doesn’t get much love on the Pinside ratings list and I have never played it but it looks fine from the layout.

Love my machine!! But when I bought it I had to dump a bunch of $ into it, new rubbers, rebuilt flippers, rebuilt pop bumpers and Im still in search of an original backglass. When this game is fine tuned and running as it should it is a very fun game, mine plays fast, which I like because Ive heard a lot can be very sluggish. When buying make sure all plastics are intact (these are impossible to find), see how much play are in the flippers, and also look at the boards for burning (when I bought mine it wasnt working, lol but I live 30mins away from John Jukes, turned out it was only a fuse). If everything is complete and appears in good condition I dont think you can really go wrong.

2 months later
#43 1 year ago

Lighting & Score Display Problems on Atari Superman.

This past June I purchased ea non-working Superman machine that sat for a few years but looked in great shape. I got it home, put it back together and to my surprise it worked just fine. After some restorative cleaning, new rubbers, play field repairs and bulbs it was 100%. What a great find and a lot of fun to play. BUT...... And there’s always a but; right?

Out of the blue, after a hour of play today, I sprayed the coin mechanisms with “quick drying Electronic Cleaner Spray”. (Did I mention that I’m NEW to this hobby?) Immediately after I sprayed, I noticed the following:
- on the back glass; all four player score displays went dark but the back glass illumination bulbs stayed on.
- under the play field; all lights went dark.
- above the play field; all of the lights stayed on.
- the “test button” behind the coin door does not put the machine in test mode.

So... I have no idea what happened.
I checked the continuity on fuses 3, 4, 5, 6, 7.
I didn’t smell anything burning.

If anyone has any basic suggestions to help me debug this problem I would love to hear from you.
Thanks in advance....

#44 1 year ago

I did some more looking and reading and found that if the game is not going into test mode, then to check my LED lights on the PCB board. (See picture below of service manual page 1-7).
Of L1, L2, L3 and L4 lights; when I pressed the self-test button on the inside of the coin door;
—- L1 is ON,
—- L2 is off,
—- L3 is flashing,
—- L4 is flashing.

If I understand what I’m reading (I’m new at this), that’s telling me that my J6 and K6 RAM are bad.
Hmmmmmm. Anybody think I should go ahead with replacing those as a first step, or am I missing the boat here?

C7DB0D40-9C56-459B-BC9C-E80E845675DC (resized).jpeg

#45 1 year ago
Quoted from RonP:

Out of the blue, after a hour of play today, I sprayed the coin mechanisms with quick drying Electronic Cleaner Spray”.

Why?

Did you spray it with the game powered up?

Did anything else get misted or sprayed?

Check all the wiring for the coin door (and anywhere else that might have been sprayed) and make sure there is no residue that was left behind.

#46 1 year ago

Yikes. Thanks for the reply. It’s nice to know that this forum is responsive. Thank you!
Well here’s an update on my dilemma.
- actually sprayed it with the power “OFF”. But I turned it on only a minute or so after that. Why I sprayed it... The wiring looked dusty (newbie mistake).
- do you think the spraying might be a red herring? Or do it think it may be the cause?
- nothing else, other than the coin mechanism got sprayed.
———-
Update on the red LED test lights on the PCB board.... I read the lights backwards. They are actually numbered right-to-left.
So:
- L1 is flashing
- L2 is flashing
- L3 is off
- L4 is on steady
Which is saying that RAM H6 and J6 is bad.
———-

I’ll do a thorough cleaning of the coindoor wiring and let you know what changes.
Thank you for the suggestions.

#47 1 year ago

Ive just acquired a SUPERMAN and have a non booting CPU board. As you all know, information on these is scant.
The 4 LED's on the lower part of CPU give an indication of what may be wrong but can someone please clarify for me what these are supposed to do on initial start:
Briefly flash and stay off..

or..

Not flash and stay off.

Many thanks..

#48 1 year ago

ForceFlow —- I did a thorough cleaning of the coin door wires and connections. Nothing Changed.
I did try to bypass the RAM test (holding the test button and credit button at the same time) but nothing changed. However, the 4 LEDs showed this during the bypass attempt: L1, L2 and L3 all go dark and L4 flashes. ☹️

Retro pin —- When I get my machine up and running again, I’ll be sure to look at the normal condition of the four LEDs and report back to you.

8E60192F-9C34-40B7-B456-9DEF14B94B25 (resized).jpeg

#49 1 year ago

Anyone willing to send me a 300dpi or greater scan of their backglass?

#50 1 year ago
Quoted from Casinorun:

Anyone willing to send me a 300dpi or greater scan of their backglass?

I'm starting to work on this pin next, so if nobody sends one by then, I can. I'm also scanning the building plastic over the center drop bank, and might do a run of a few of them on the laser printer.

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