(Topic ID: 193047)

Atari Airborne Avenger Pop Bumper Not Working

By Ramtuathal

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9 posts
  • 2 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by Zitt
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 6 years ago

So far, I've replaced:
1) Blown fuse for Upper Right Thumper Bumper solenoid (2A, 125V FB, replaced with good fuse with same specs)
2) Q8 transistor (2N6044, replaced with NTE261)
3) Coil / diode / coil sleeve (coil A007030-01 (from Marco's)), new coil registers 8.8ohms as it should

The switch for the bumper "clicks" and gives the appropriate audio scoring report. The bumper assembly has been put back together correctly.

History:
After transport, I plugged all the boards back in and when I fired up the game, the old Q8 transistor popped and smoked. Pulled Q8 off and it tested bad. Replaced it and the fuse that probably blew somewhere around when the transistor popped. Coil was fried, especially the coil sleeve, and the plunger was stuck halfway down. Replaced coil, cleaned old parts, reassembled. No action at all.

Help and advice appreciated.

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#2 6 years ago

I don't know if this helps but the lamp for the upper right pop bumper is also out. Correct wires attached, new bulb installed - still no light.

#3 6 years ago

I should add that I tried the diagnostic test as well, no dice.

#5 6 years ago

Wondering about the messed up through hole where I replaced the transistor...

I don't know what else to look at other than checking the power (checking for broken wires), and I'm not sure how to do that. Anyone?

#6 6 years ago

Welp. One more bump before I go back to work.

#7 6 years ago

Well, Again - not familiar with Atari machines...
but there is one of two things. My assumption is the Pop is controlled by the CPU ... IE it detects a switch hit; then fires the offending coil. Unlike Gottlieb which fired the coil directly from the switch bump w/o CPU control. If my assumption is correct; then you have either an input or an output problem.

Input being the switch detection is fried or the Output drivers are fried.

So; on this game do the pop bumpers trigger a switch edge in the diagnostic menu?
If I were doing this on my 79 bally star trek; I'd put the system in switch test mode and hit the pop bumper switches. If all but this one registers... then you know it's something in the switch matrix.

If all pops trigger switches; then it's probably a output driver.
I think Bally debug wiki says you ground the tab of the driver transistor; if the coil fires - then the connection to the coil is good.
Then you work your way backward in the driver circuitry.
That said SOMEONE needs to confirm grounding the tab of the driver transistor is ok to do for Atari... DO NOT try my method without someone confirming it operates the same.
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Solenoid_Driver_Board_Issues
There isn't an equivalent section in the Atari debug wiki afaik:
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Atari_Repair

Assuming you replaced the driver transistor (Q8) is still good; then I'd test the Diode behind it (CR16). If it's good; then test R20 as good. If that's good then might be D20 (the output latch).

However, given the amount of damage you have seen... I'd be more inclinded to believe there might be a burnt trace on the board. Have you done continuity between the collector (C) and the pin on the board (J8-16)?

#8 6 years ago

@zitt
Thanks for your advice! I started backtracking the circuit in question and I found the problem when I started testing the continuity of Q8. When I replaced Q8, I noticed the through hole was "burnt" looking, but I tested continuity after replacing the 2N6044 with an NTE261 and it was "fine". Well, according to your suggestion, I retested continuity (note that the pinout on 2N6044 is BCE (left to right from the front), which is weird (in my limited transistor experience)) and I was getting OPEN from base to emitter (ground). I'm not sure why it worked before but didn't after reinstalling the board, but seems to be the case. Well, to fix the problem, I did some soldering that you won't be able to unsee, but it is functional for now. There was some sketchy soldering on that old Q8 in the first place, but I am not proud of the "through hole repair" I did either. Upper right pop bumper works with this messy monstrosity. (The lamp is still out, but I think that is one of the Ax logic chips...). Thanks again!

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