Thats cool! If I didn't already have some coming from a mail forwarding company I'd be getting some for you. Are you also going to carry their pop bumper lights? Theirs seem unique in that they can be always lit as well as wired to flash when hit. http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-modding/noflix-bumper-light/6711/noflix-bumper-light?c=2975

Britemods, http://www.britemods.com/britecaps--evo.html, has something similar but it adds 5mm to the cap height which I can't fit in my Diner project.

They didn't have a flash option.

Still making progress but regular life keeps slowing me down. I recently got my translucent pop bumper bodies to play with. It took a little while because they come from Pinball Center Germany and he doesn't ship to the US so they needed to be shipped via a mail forwarding system as described here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/german-mail-forwarding-workaround-for-pinball-center

After I ordered them from Pinball Center, pinsider Zitt announced he would be the official US distributor for these in the states. Yes, my timing sucks. I did end up buying a few from him as well because I wanted to get a few other colors. The thread talking about Zitt's avaialbility of these is here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/transparent-sternballywilliams-pop-bumper-bodies

I also bought some of the Pinball Center No-Flix pop bumper lights. These are similar to pop lights sold by cointaker and others except they also have a flash feature. So they can be set to be always and also flash when the pop coil is fired (or any other coil/flasher in the game). The only other pop light I found that does this is the Britemods brand sold by pinball life.
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3624

The only problem with the Britemods caps is that they add 5mm height to the pop bumper. On my game there are ramps resting just above 2 of the pops so the extra 5mm is a problem. The pinball center lights do not add any height.

I really like the look of the translucent pop bodies. I wasn't sure what color would look best so I bought a bunch to try out different body/skirt combinations. I noticed they are a little shorted than a standard pop body I had by about 2 mm.
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The pop light worked well as well. The top side had 6 surface mount LED's. Four of these are wired to the existing pop bumper light circuit, two can be wired to a coil ground to flash whenever that coil is activated. The top side also has a brightness control.
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The underside has 3 lights that fire down into the translucent body to light it up.
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To wire it up the two thinner wires go to your current pop light or to GI. The third thicker wire goes to the coil ground that you want to control the flash effect. To make this more future proof, I installed a 555 socket in my pop body. I then put the mating 555 male end from a broke LED on the bottom of my No-Flix light. The third wire is still hard wired though. If I ever want to replace it with something else I'll just snip that wire and I'll still have the 555 socket all ready there.

After trying a few combinations I decided I definitely want to use red bumper caps but I'm still not sure what body color and skirt color to go with it. The clear and yellow bodies just didn't look right so I've narrowed it down the red or blue bodies. So I tried a few combinations of different colored bumper skirts with the red and blue bodies. In these pics the white wiring is clearly visible since the no-flix light shines down into the body. However one the wedge socket is in it, it will much cleaner looking.

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I think I like the red caps with blue bodies and red skirts the best.

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You can get a glimpse of my side rails in this pic. I had Taylor Reese make some new rails for me in a blood red finish. they came out great. If you re thinking about new rails and want a custom color, he's your guy.

I've been taking a while to fully assemble the playfield because I realized it would make more sense to get the art done on things like the ramps and backboard before putting it all together. So I've been putting together some more art work for the playfield areas.

In diner there is a plastic Juke box at the top of the shooter lane that is used for the skill shot. It alternately flashes between 150K, 100K, 75K, 50K, and 25K. When you plunge the ball it will award the points that what ever light was light the ball lands in the upper left saucer. If your plunge doesn't land in that saucer then you get no points.

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For my re-theme I'm removing the juke box and putting in a "weapons locker". The function will be the same as the juke-box, the lights will alternate between 5 weapon choices. Obviously the chainsaw is worth the most points followed by shotgun, axe, knife, and a broken beer bottle. There is a funny joke in one of the "Ash vs Evil Dead" episodes when Pablo only gets a broken beer bottle for his weapon so that's where that one came from.

You may notice there is a lot of blood splatter in most of my artwork. If you watch show you see they when things get going the amount of blood used is pretty ridiculous. A lot of the behinds the scenes and making of features related to the show has most of the actors complained about how they are almost constantly getting drenched in blood. So my game has a a lot of blood on everything.

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For the speaker panel I want to add some back lighting to it. Kinda like the back lit "love never dies" lighting effect on BSD. I'll have to route a hole in the back panel then add some additional lights there. There are a ton of quotes from the show that would look great there but I think this one fits the style of the show the best and could also refer to someones pinball shooting style.

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Maybe I should try the clear bodies and then tri-color LED's in there. Than it could be change colors during the game based on whats going on?

Still making progress but not flipping yet. Playfield underside is down and most of the top side s done. I was going to leave some of the "buried" plastics (i.e. under ramps and other things making them hard to see) clear with no art work. However after I started putting everything together I decided I wanted to put some art on them to add more color tot he game. So I've been side tracked doing that. Here's some work in progress.

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Something else I'm playing with are some star post flashers. These are Small circular LED boards that are designed to fit underneath a star post. I want my slingshot area star posts to be lit all the time and also do a flash when the sling is hit. The ones sold by Great Lakes Modular can do this. I think the ones from cointaker and pinball life can flash or be constantly on but not both.

Here's the great lakes modular page that has a little video of them in action on a twilight zone.
http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/spl_kit.html

Here is a pinball news article on them:
http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/starposts/index.html

Here is the cointaker version:
http://cointaker.com/t/post-lights

Here is the pinball life version:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1995

For Europeans here is the pinball center version:
http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-modding/noflix-post-light/376/noflix-post-light-red?c=2259

I really like how these look so I bought 4 of them to put on my sling star posts.

It wasn't as straight forward to install as I initially thought. The GLM star post flasher needs 20-24V and a true ground signal to power them for the always on mode. I could tap a ground signal from the nearby drop target board and get 25V from a nearby coil. For the flash mode you hook a third wire to the ground side of a coil or flasher that you want to activate the flash effect. Diner is a system 11C game and the some coils run off of 25V and some are 50V. Turns out the sling coils are driven on a 50V circuit. Not sure if driving the always on at 25V and the flash at 50V would be a problem or not.

I decided to measure the voltage on the 25V line and was surprised to see it read 32V. The 50V line was measuring at 70V. I thought something might be wrong but it turns out that is normal for sys11 games of that era. Now I was concerned that 32V was quite a bit higher than 20-24V. I was also wondering if the flash effect can be driven off the 50-70V coil voltage as well. I reached out to GLM for help but never got a response so I decided to just try it and see what happens.

For the steady on mode, the LEDS were very bright due to the higher voltage. I left them on in attract mode for an hour and the LEDS were pretty hot. So I even though it worked I was concerned about over driving it so I needed to find another power source.

It turns out there is a lower voltage available in the back box. It's an 18V circuit that is used to supply power for the lamp matrix. I tried running the star post LED's via this 18V and it worked great.

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Now I needed to test the flash effect. The sling coil is held high at 50V-70V on both terminals and then the coil is fired by dropping one of those terminals to ground. That ground terminal on the coil is the one you hook up to the coil/flasher lead on the star post LED.

My worry was that when the coil was at rest the 50-70V signal would be on the star post board and that would be too high. I tried it out and it seems to work fine so far. Here is a pic of it installed under a post. The terminal side of the board sticks out a bit but once everything gets assembled its not noticeable.

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You can see in this pic that that I installed a playfield protector. I wasn't sure how the laminated vinyl overlay would hold up so I decided to put the protector in there. There are some areas that are not covered by it so I'll be keeping an eye on those to see how it holds up over time.

Next job to tackle is the apron.

When I was originally re-theming this as a Batman I bought a repro Tommy blinders mechanism to install in the game. This was going to be penguins umbrella opening up to mess with you by keeping the flipper area hidden. I really like how that toy works on the Tommy pinball game. I decided to keep the blinders in this version of the game.

I'l have the blinders open up when Ruby is active in gameplay. Ruby is played by Lucy Lawless on the Ash Vs Evil Dead show. She is a character that is sometimes helping the Ash and sometimes not. So even though she is on the "Ghostbeaters" team most of the time she still can mess with you by blocking your view when the blinders are on.

So to use the blinders I need to replace the original Diner apron with one that is open in the front to let the blinders come out. I have a Guns and Roses apron which I'm modifying to fit my Diner. I also need to make some ball guides to put in front of the apron so the ball can't get into the mechanism.

I've been working on the plastics as I re-assemble the topside of the playfield. Here are some links I found informative.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-those-who-make-your-own-plastics
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-guide-to-making-your-own-reproduction-plastics
http://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php/Construction#Plastics

For the color scheme of my plastics, I choose a dark purplish blue with lots of red blood splatters to match the playfield design. The raw plastics themselves were made by Joe at laseriffic, http://www.laseriffic.com I traced each of the plastics onto paper and sent him of scan of each one. He then created vector files and had them laser cut. If you have the ability to make the vector files yourself it will be a cheaper to just send those to him. The new plastics are a little thinner than the originals (0.06" vs 0.09") but were very accurate to the originals.

I tried a few techniques for the artwork to see what I liked best. Based on my previous experience with the water slide decals I decided they were not opaque enough. I preferred the look of glossy inkjet photo paper. I compositied the various plastics onto 8.5" x 11" sheets and then cut them out after printing. A few of the plastics were too big to fit on a single sheet so I had to print them as 2 separate pieces.

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A drawback to the photo paper approach is how to attach it to the plastic. If you put adhesive on the artwork side of the photo and then attach it under the plastic you can see the glue through the plastic. It dulls the colors and gives the art a hazy look. I tried using the adhesive based cartridge with a xyron sticker maker available at many craft stores or amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Xyron-Creative-Multi-Use-Permanent-Adhesive-Cartridge/dp/B00013MUVS

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I also tried some old spray adhesive I had on my basement.

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The results with the spray adhesive and the xyron were about the same. The coverage of the adhesive left a "spotty" looking image that was not very good.

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I then tried using the recommend adhesive on the pinball makers website (3m 77). I thought maybe the spray adhesive I was using was too old? The 3M 77 looked about the same. I experimented with very light coats vs very heavy coats and it still looked uneven via either approach.

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I found an alternative solution to seems to work well. A purchased a Diner plastic protectors set

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pf-plastic-protectors-for-salediner

which had 8 protectors for most of the more visible plastics on the game. I sprayed the adhesive on the backside of the artwork and then stuck it on top of the plastic protector the I put the clear plastic on top of the art. This way the top plastic is still crystal clear and the artwork colors are not dulled by the adhesive layer. This looked much better.

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For my plastics that don't have a protector I glued the artwork on top of the plastic instead of under it. I the put some adhesive backed clear mylar on top of the art. This will protect the photo paper surface and makes cleaning it very easy.

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In two pics below you can see the difference between the upper plastic which used the adhesive to attach the art below the plastic vs gluing the art on top of the protector then placing the plastic on top of it.

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so where ever possible I'm using the 2 plastic sandwich approach.

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Something else I did was to use a black sharpie to blacken the edge before applying the art. The printed photo has some thickness to it and if the edge is white I think its more noticeable than if its black. In pic below I started blackening the edge on the left, while the right side is still white.

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I have also been working a few of my playfield "accoutrements".

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-pinside-skit-b-predator-discussion/page/262#post-3555239

My accoutrements include; an Eligos figure to mount above what was the grill target, an Ash figure mounted on the right ramp, and a few of the "creepy kids" that were spawned at the cabin in the season 1 finale, and Ash's Delta along with trailer .

I mounted each differently based on where it was going and what I had to work with on the bottom of each one. Eligos just has a coarse thread screw going through the plastic and into his gut along with a lock washer. Ash is mounted onto a dome flasher receiver so I can pop him in or out easily. I wanted to put Ash between the two flashers on the ramp but he didn't quite fit there so I put him in the location of lower left ramp flasher. I will relocate the displaced flasher somewhere else. The creepy kids will probably go around the diner cup which now represents the cabin. The delta will go right over the special hole. Still working on the mounting for that one. I might have to re-locate the right ramp entry switch to make more room for the Delta. I still need to light the interior of the trailer and Delta to come on when the special hole is lit and also give it a proper paint job.

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Next set of things to tackle include are the back panel of the playfield, the alpha numeric display cover, the apron, the and all the exterior cabinet artwork. I also.need to redo the light panel.in the backbox to relocate the clock motor and the character flashers to match my translite.

I also just read that the pinsound board folks just released new firmware that includes shaker support. I've been planning on having a shaker in the game so now I can update my pinsound board firmware and start tinkering with that as well.

So many things left to do. Still shooting for a Pintastic show premier in July. I need to help a friend install his dock this weekend and get stuff read for Allentown the week after that so It might be a few week til the next update.

My plastics were PETG. Maybe differences with the photo paper brands? I was using Epson Ultra Premium glossy photo paper.

I'd love it someone offered a printing and cutting service for plastics! Would have made my job a lot easier.

Figures were the Neca brand. Lots of detail and relatively cheap.

http://necaonline.com/2016/07/ash-vs-evil-dead-7-scale-action-figures-bloody-ash-vs-demon-spawn-3-pack/

Update is long overdue. Still working on the game but have had a lot of distractions last few weeks due to things like allentown, work stuff, visiting relatives, kids high school graduation, etc. Still shooting for a pintastic premier. It's gonna be a race to get it all done in time.

Here's a quick recap on what I've been up to with it.

Made a lot if progress with the cabinet. I removed everything from the base and head. It's amazing how much stuff is in there. Took lots of pictures to help with re-assembly.

Here's the paint stripper I used it works well and doesnt stink too much. Took a few applications to get it all off.

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Once striped I needed to fill in voids and patch up the corners.

Vid's excellent guide on cabinet repair described how to use fiberglass resin to fix the corners.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cabinet-restoration-vids-guide

Here's the resin I got at Lowes. Worked great. I also bought some cheap flashing material to make my corner dams. I used regular bondo to fill in the minor cuts and gouges in the cabinet.

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I decided to go for a two tone paint scheme in the inner cabinet. Ash vs The Evil Dead is probably one the bloodiest show ever made. They must go through gallons on it every episode. So I thought it would be nice to go with red and black for the interior of the cab. Took a little more work but I like how it looks.

In keeping with the blood theme I also did some red splatter on the inner sides as well as the back of the head and cab. I also painted the cab and heat vent screens red.

Also decided to replace the "skids" on the back of the cab. I used poplar and screwed and glued them in so they should hold up to lots of abuse.

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I also had to go visit the "Rick-Mobile" when it came to Boston last month. The line to buy anything was hundreds of people long so I wasnt able to get anything but it was pretty cool to see.

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For area that get a decal, I used polycrylic instead of paint. I got that idea from here:

http://robertwinter.com/pinball/restorations/cc/cabinet/index.html

This approach fills in wood to make a super smooth surface for the decal. You still paint around the edges that will not be covered by the decal.

Here's a preview of the cab and head art on of my sides. I'll hold off showing the other until the game is done. Gotta save some surprises for later.

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I also spent sone time making a new rotisserie. I wsd using a DIY iron pipe one as decribed here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/just-in-case-you-havent-built-a-rotisserie-yet

It worked ok but I then saw another rotisserie build thread here and really like the design of that one better than the iron pipe version so I decided to build one.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sky-pilots-rotisserie-plans

Having two rotisseries may seem redundant but it will be handy in the future for playfield swaps. I opted to make version that could be dissassembled for easier storage. I really like the sturdiness of it and the storage area underneath.

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Also got the speaker panel done. I added some blood splatter to the grills. Can't have too much blood on this theme.

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Sam Raimi (creator of the Evil Dead films and show) loves to put his old 73 Oldsmobile Delta 88 in as many of his film as he can.

http://evildead.wikia.com/wiki/The_Oldsmobile

In "Ash vs Evil Dead" Ash is still driving it after all these years (along with his home, an airstream trailer).

Theres a great episode in season 2 where the Delta gets possessed by the necronomicom and goed on its own killing spree. Theres a great fight scene at the end where Ash has to battle his own possessed car.

I decided early on that I'd need to have a Delta in the game. I wanted it to light up similar to the car mod on Creature From The Black Lagoon. I bought some tiny led's here:

http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/

I'm using 4 led's. Two for the headlights, one in the main seating area, and one the trailer. The car used is a Dodge Monaco that required a new paint job.

The car is mounted just above the gobble hole on the right side of the game (was "Today's Special" in Diner). The insert has been re-labeled as "Delta" and all the car lights will turn on when that insert is lit.

There was a small problem due to tbe ramp entry switch being mounted right where I wanted to put the car. I had to relocate the switch to the left side of the ramp. Still deciding how to best mount the car/trailer to the ramp.

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Me Too !