Glendale, AZ
Quoted from MrBigg:I can totally relate to that, says the guy who dropped and broke his.
Yes, that incident haunts me. Hence why I'm working around a lot of soft stuff.
(Topic ID: 324332)
Reichenau Im Mühlkreis
me too. Only think about pinball stuff anymore. And often when you try something in the evening and it doesn't work, the night is ruined
The 4 ball trough part #pbl-100-0015-00 from Pinball Life has ball 1 and jam opto switches. These hooked up to the CobraPin controller direct input switch jumper with no mods (EDIT!) to the opto transmitter/receiver boards. EDIT! I added a 100 Ohm resistor in series on my 3.3 VDC input to drop the voltage and limit the current on my transmitter optos. I power the transmitter board with another 5-3 VDC step down voltage regulator. All my input switches are wired in and good to go!
IMG_20221128_124559497 (resized).jpgIMG_20221211_125048710 (resized).jpg
Clermont-ferrand
Quoted from cwg29:First Opto Drop Target installed and tested.
Well done !
I had an opto on my drain (the same you have from pinball life).
I tried to figure it out for several month.... Before getting rid of it (destroyed it and "replaced" it with a mechanical switch).
You're progressing very fast ! Amazing !
Quoted from cwg29:The 4 ball trough part #pbl-100-0015-00 from Pinball Life has ball 1 and jam opto switches. These hooked up to the CobraPin controller direct input switch jumper with no mods to the opto transmitter/receiver boards. I power the transmitter board with another 5-3 VDC step down voltage regulator. All my input switches are wired in and good to go!
[quoted image][quoted image]
Are you sure this is safe? I have the same ball trough and I thought the forward voltage on the opto transmitter were lower than 3V. Do you send 3V without any resistor to limit the current? If so my guess is your opto will die pretty soon. Seeing how you rebuilt your opto board I guess you know what you do and I'm wrong. 
Personally I use a Opto Power Board (#600-0256-00), it use a 47ohm resistor to limit the voltage from 5V to 1.7V and current to 75mA.
Quoted from Gillen:Are you sure this is safe? I have the same ball trough and I thought the forward voltage on the opto transmitter were lower than 3V. Do you send 3V without any resistor to limit the current? If so my guess is your opto will die pretty soon. Seeing how you rebuilt your opto board I guess you know what you do and I'm wrong.
Personally I use a Opto Power Board (#600-0256-00), it use a 47ohm resistor to limit the voltage from 5V to 1.7V and current to 75mA.
Thanks for the info. You make a good point. I probably should add a resistor in series with the voltage. Optos are a totally new thing for me.
Coils and playfield LEDs wired up. Had a mishap with one flipper coil. I ignored the * key on the outputs and I think I put 48 VDC on the wrong spot. CobraPin straightened me out. I love this controller. When it's all good to go I think I want to buy a 2nd one for backup. Used the FAST pinball RGB LEDs because they mount so nicely. Need to do GI LEDs next. Service Mode in MPF is handy for pulsing coils and lighting individual LEDs.
IMG_20221214_131120051~3 (resized).jpgIMG_20221214_131321475~2 (resized).jpgWell done, every project look super cool with some lights on it ! (take a picture at night !!!)
Quoted from cwg29:Used the FAST pinball RGB LEDs because they mount so nicely.
I'm interesting on those LED, can you direct us to the "pin" you used ?
It look likes you didn't soldered your wires on the LED.
Quoted from leeoneil:Well done, every project look super cool with some lights on it ! (take a picture at night !!!)
I'm interesting on those LED, can you direct us to the "pin" you used ?
It look likes you didn't soldered your wires on the LED.
I love the way they mount! I used a rubber washer (Home Depot Plumbing Supplies) under each one. I found the 3 pin jumpers on Amazon and Ali Express (bulk and much cheaper). No soldering. This idea comes from:
Great videos!
https://fastpinball.com/products/lighting/rgb-led-insert/
Quoted from cwg29:I love the way they mount! I used a rubber washer (Home Depot Plumbing Supplies) under each one. I found the 3 pin jumpers on Amazon and Ali Express (bulk and much cheaper). No soldering. This idea comes from: Great videos!
https://fastpinball.com/products/lighting/rgb-led-insert/
amazon.com link »
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804622139811.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.4.581f1802Df8VoH&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US
[quoted image]
Although I am a fan of the pins, and faster, I'm also a fan of less connection pins for less trouble later, and less jumble of wires i can strap down. I'm a mech/electrician at my job, so soldering is an easy task. Neither is wrong, and love your work.
Quoted from MrBigg:Although I am a fan of the pins, and faster, I'm also a fan of less connection pins for less trouble later, and less jumble of wires i can strap down. I'm a mech/electrician at my job, so soldering is an easy task. Neither is wrong, and love your work.
Solder is great for things not falling apart. In the Navy we called it Battle Ready. But with these serial LEDs if there is a bad one I heard it's like looking for a bad light on a Christmas tree. If I can pull off the connector and jumper passed a few at a time that might be helpful in troubleshooting. I want to order some additional length jumpers to shorten up a few. As far as cutting and re-pinning I've had enough of that doing the J connectors!
The playfield is back in the box! Refinished a old EM William's apron. More clean up on the wiring. GIs installed on a 2nd RGB LED string. Flipper tested. One playfield issue I have so far is when the ball hits the left middle lane it tends to skip over the left saucer. I noticed on Xenon there is a post with a tight spring wrapped around it in front of the saucer. I'm looking for something like that or if anyone has any suggestions I'm all ears.
IMG_20221219_165600729 (resized).jpgIMG_20221222_111948950 (resized).jpgIMG_20221222_112155929 (resized).jpgIMG_20221222_113501153 (resized).jpgQuoted from cwg29:One playfield issue I have so far is when the ball hits the left middle lane it tends to skip over the left saucer. I noticed on Xenon there is a post with a tight spring wrapped around it in front of the saucer. I'm looking for something like that or if anyone has any suggestions I'm all ears.
On a game like Eight Ball Deluxe, Bally would have the ball guide plastic bend out right before the saucer forming something like a pinch point. It's wide enough for the ball to go around, but it takes away most of the momentum so it falls into the saucer instead of shooting past it.
Maybe you can change the flat metal ball guide a bit, add a strategically placed nail or two, and/or use a ball centering one-way wireform to get the ball slowed down and pointed straight into the center of the saucer.
Filming how it's missing the saucer might help. Is it due to too much momentum or not being sent center enough to the saucer.
Beveling the saucer edges more may also be of help?
Quoted from TreyBo69:On a game like Eight Ball Deluxe, Bally would have the ball guide plastic bend out right before the saucer forming something like a pinch point. It's wide enough for the ball to go around, but it takes away most of the momentum so it falls into the saucer instead of shooting past it.
Maybe you can change the flat metal ball guide a bit, add a strategically placed nail or two, and/or use a ball centering one-way wireform to get the ball slowed down and pointed straight into the center of the saucer.
Filming how it's missing the saucer might help. Is it due to too much momentum or not being sent center enough to the saucer.
Beveling the saucer edges more may also be of help?
I will take a close look at Eight Ball Dlx. Thanks for all these ideas. It sometimes drops in so I know it shouldn't take too much coaxing. I really want to take some of that kinetic energy away.
another option would be something like this '78 williams world cup, on the right side has a post that essentially takes the ball momentum although it does occasionally sneak by.
Pezjohnson just streamed it last night if you want to see some of it in action https://www.twitch.tv/pezjohnson
pasted_image (resized).pngShort video showing first real gameplay! Using the MPF pinball framework. I see why some homebrew folks might not see MPF as real programming. After listing the devices, a lot of the real code is in the background. I suppose if you wanted to really get wild this would not be desirable. I'm actually very thankful a lot of the mechanics are hidden and adding multiple devices that may have overlapping logic has already been considered. Still a lot to learn about what you can and cannot do but so far I love MPF. Seems pretty flexible and has a good template for newbies.
I’m really liking your shooter lane/skillshot setup! Can’t wait to see more.
MPF, while a lot is hidden, still takes work to make everything jive together. I am also thankful a lot has been precoded
Quoted from Octomodz:I’m really liking your shooter lane/skillshot setup! Can’t wait to see more.
MPF, while a lot is hidden, still takes work to make everything jive together. I am also thankful a lot has been precoded
I'm seeing some brain busters coming my way.
Quoted from BorgDog:another option would be something like this '78 williams world cup, on the right side has a post that essentially takes the ball momentum although it does occasionally sneak by.
Pezjohnson just streamed it last night if you want to see some of it in action https://www.twitch.tv/pezjohnson
[quoted image]
A nail did the trick! A very manicured nail. Drops in the saucer every time. Thanks for the suggestion.
IMG_20230101_081757961 (resized).jpgPushing along. Getting a little experimental with the backglass. Trying to add a mirrored piece that is set 1 inch behind the front artwork piece. The idea being to create a little infinity mirror effect. Still working on it. Started creating artwork for the plastics. Last time I did this I had the art printed on translite material and attached it to Lexan pieces I cut myself. I see that CPR now has some custom art plastic services, but this falls out of my current budget. There are a lot of things I would like to do (print direct to playfield) but this can all be done later if necessary, plus I might not like something after it's all put together.
Arzach_P_sling_4 (resized).jpgBoth_Playcards (resized).pngHendix (resized).jpgIMG_20221229_130332097 (resized).jpgIMG_20230101_122240449 (resized).jpgQuoted from cwg29:I see that CPR now has some custom art plastic services, but this falls out of my current budget.
I've started shopping around for UV printing services myself, I didn't find CPR's offer very attractive, feels too pricey. They're trying to offer a full service option I think, but I just want someone to take my already set up files.
Quoted from Aurich:I've started shopping around for UV printing services myself, I didn't find CPR's offer very attractive, feels too pricey. They're trying to offer a full service option I think, but I just want someone to take my already set up files.
Reading thru the CPR process does give some insight to what might cause that washed out look. Maybe printing a mask layer for the blacks might help. Also, my friend recently turned me on to white sunscreen material that helps spread the light out more evenly, although this seemed to not be an issue with white backed translite. I was planning on also contacting the company I used for the backglass. https://www.squaresigns.com They seem to have good technical people when contacted. They printed the art on acrylic and with the proper .svg file they can leave transparency shapes and still back everything else in white. What I don't know is if they will print on thinner materials like pteg or lexan. I can cut them myself.
Quoted from Aurich:I've started shopping around for UV printing services myself, I didn't find CPR's offer very attractive, feels too pricey. They're trying to offer a full service option I think, but I just want someone to take my already set up files.
Fantastic pinball did league of legends for ernie at about a 3rd of the cost as cpr, and it turned out amazing as you can see. Seems like a nice guy, I talked to him after I broke my first playfield about printing mine, but was still out of budget after eating all that from the first one. They are a good option for saving for printing direct
My backglss was done by a guy named nick McDaniel of Dirty South graphics out of Mississippi, it's basically back-lit sign grade vinyl on glass I bought myself then then laid on myself. It's basically sign material, and is supposed to not shrink like typical vinyl, plus leds took the heat factor out of the back glass issue anyway, so Temps shouldn't be a big issue.
Quoted from MrBigg:Fantastic pinball did league of legends for ernie at about a 3rd of the cost as cpr, and it turned out amazing as you can see.
I’m not familiar with them, sounds worth investigating. I’m working on a little project that would be more than a one off print job.
Quoted from Aurich:I’m not familiar with them, sounds worth investigating. I’m working on a little project that would be more than a one off print job.
Not sure if he's on here, but he has a Facebook page under "fantastic pinball"
Quoted from MrBigg:Not sure if he's on here, but he has a Facebook page under "fantastic pinball"
He is here: https://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/fantasticpinball
Which is great, since I don't do Facebook. Thanks for the tip!
I ordered my backwall vinyl from Nextdaydisplay and it came out really good. It's not playfield art though, so I am sure that is why. will keep an eye on how your plastics come out.
Quoted from Octomodz:I ordered my backwall vinyl from Nextdaydisplay and it came out really good. It's not playfield art though, so I am sure that is why. will keep an eye on how your plastics come out.
Doesn't the guy who printed your playfield do plastics too?
Quoted from Aurich:Doesn't the guy who printed your playfield do plastics too?
I need to ask him on the plastics, I don't see why he couldn't but need to confirm. I meant to ask him yesterday and forgot. I will find out today.
Quoted from Aurich:Doesn't the guy who printed your playfield do plastics too?
he is working on getting the stuff to do it, he plans to offer the service as well.
Quoted from Octomodz:he is working on getting the stuff to do it, he plans to offer the service as well.
Awesome, that would be a really good resource to have.
Quoted from cwg29:Thanks for the info. You make a good point. I probably should add a resistor in series with the voltage. Optos are a totally new thing for me.
I have several extra opto power distribution boards I had made for my homebrew that work perfect and are leftover from the economies of scale in fabbing/purchasing them.
Send me a pm if interested and I can go over their details. Just cover the shipping and handling and I will even give you the mounts I designed (intended for mounting either vertical or horizontal on the playfield).
Quoted from P1nhead:I have several extra opto power distribution boards I had made for my homebrew that work perfect and are leftover from the economies of scale in fabbing/purchasing them.
Send me a pm if interested and I can go over their details. Just cover the shipping and handling and I will even give you the mounts I designed (intended for mounting either vertical or horizontal on the playfield).
I'm good but I sent a pinball pal a message with your shop link.
Toronto, ON
Quoted from jwilson:I had Spooky print up my plastics for me and they did a great job. Gave me a ton of extras too.
I'm really looking for a commercial resource I can use for projects, kind of thing where if I want a run of 100 sets it's no big deal, and re-ordering them when I have people asking me for them is easy.
Ultimately that may just mean working with an established commercial printer, and I've already started looking, but if I could work with someone who understood pinball, and how we light plastics, handles PETG instead of just acrylic, etc that would be ideal.
So here is how things turned out with the plastics. Ended up doing that same exact thing I did in the past. Cutting the plastic from Lexan and attaching the artwork to the backside with packing tape. Sounds trashy but it turns out better than one might think. The print quality seems better than before and lights up nicely in my opinion. For now, I'll consider this my low cost solution til more services become available. Definitely a good way to prototype.
IMG_20230107_175613731 (resized).jpgIMG_20230106_084218783 (resized).jpgQuoted from andylama:Bravo, sir. Hands down the prettiest table art I've ever seen with my own eyes.
Just really happy with the way it's turning out. The final art pieces are coming in soon. Then there is all that game code!
IMG_20230108_082029514 (resized).jpgQuoted from MrBigg:You have absolutely killed it on the art, and the build. Fantastic cabinet, and just a thoughtful, and tasteful machine.
Wow, that means a lot coming from a fellow homebrew guy! Got in a few more plastics and side art. I have one plastic left. Somehow that artwork got rescaled and was too small. My fault. Hope it ships soon. So close. I've been painting and drawing with the Moebius pallet for years so this all came together pretty naturally. I was sneaking thru Heavy Metal Magazine when I was 7. That style and those colors never left my mind.
IMG_20230109_133638312 (resized).jpgIMG_20230109_133730390 (resized).jpgIMG_20230109_150149115 (resized).jpg
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
