Pretty much anything that sees ball travel (playfield, ramps, ball guides, etc)
(Topic ID: 207105)
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Quoted from bonzo442:I use wax but some argue just wiping with a rag & Naphtha is quick & easy. I’ve tried it and it is a lot easier of course but to me the wax protects. There was long threads written about this subject.
Naphtha is a solvent and offers no protection. It is also good at removing certain materials, such as wax. For a playfield that has already been previously waxed, novus 1 can clean a surface without removing too much of the wax. Then once you've done your pass with novus, you can apply the wax to the areas that need it. Note that wax does not "layer", so trying to apply multiple layers of wax is just a waste and you still end up with just one layer.
Yes, the point of the wax is to add a layer of protection and help fill in any small scratches, gaps, or holes in a surface that would otherwise start developing wear.
Also, a lot of the time, the ball slides, glides, skids, and drags, rather than rolls. Yes, the ball spins, but the spin of the ball does not propel it like a soccer ball, and even sometimes doesn't even go in the same direction that the ball is traveling. The speed of the ball sliding around exceeds the spin, more like a hockey puck. This effect can better be observed with some of those custom balls that have patterns or symbols on them.
Anyway, any time you have something rubbing against something else (in this case, a metal ball against a playfield), lubrication helps to prevent materials from wearing down.
A harder surface (clear coating) helps prevent the paint from wearing down, but you still eventually get ball trails (a form of wear), since the surface is still less hard than a steel ball.
Quoted from Darcy:With fresh paint or even clear, most detailers will not recommend a wax coating for at least 8 weeks after painting. (Generally).
Let the clear coat cure for the recommended amount of time, but after that yes, wax on 
Quoted from SUPERBEE:Whats the average recommended time ? I figure the clear has been curing for about a month and im planning on starting the swap soon taking my time and spending about a month on getting the swap done.
CPR recommends 30-45 days for their playfields.
http://www.classicplayfields.com/guides.html
Quoted from RobKnapp:I was told years ago like 25 years ago ; not to apply wax to plastic ramps as it would build up or dry them out to be honest I can not remember the exact reason I was told just (do not do it) . I have never applied wax to plastic ramps ever . I would use only 'Novus # 2' and or Novus #1' . Now this original advise came from a long time pinball tech. Back in those days the
(distributors) sold . Millwax and Wild Cat I found Novus #1 #2 0n my own . So maybe that is why the advise was given to me as I stopped using Millwax years ago and never used Wild Cat . I still am under the mind set to only use a Carnauba wax base with out any polishers on playfield it is very hard to find "BLITZ" is out of production I think. And Novus which is designed for plastic #1 or #2 on Plastic Ramps . I not inclined to change however ForceFlow is well informed and I really am wondering about his statement on waxing plastic ramps. Informed feed back would be great.
Petroleum-based wax will wreck plastics. Carnauba wax does not harm anything.
Millwax contains petroleum solvents and silicone--so it's not really a wax.
Blitz wax can still be found at a handful of car-related shops: https://store.carcareonline.com/onegrandblitzcarnaubawax-15ozcan.aspx
I think they just just scaled down production and stopped selling with amazon and whatnot.
Novus 2 is abrasive and shouldn't be used just for general cleaning.
Quoted from ecmurrayf1:I like Wizards Mist-N-Shine. No residue.
I wonder if it's just spray-on silicone. The MSDS sheets don't contain any ingredients, unfortunately.
[edit]: well, it says "contains no wax, silicone or petroleum solvents", so I really wonder what's in that stuff. 
Quoted from FalconDriver:The ramps will just yellow and crack over time.
With products that contain petroleum. If you use a wax without that, then your plastics will be fine.
Quoted from FalconDriver:These new ramps these days can't be
any better in quality than they were before.
After-market ramps are made with PETG plastic. It's much more durable. I'm not quite sure what plastic is currently being used on games coming out of the factories.
Quoted from spinal:What benefit would there be to waxing something you are completely covering?
If you're putting down mylar, it makes it easier to remove later.
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