Quoted from schudel5:

To each his own. That's a spend road as you start to pick up more and more games. Definitely one I'll never travel down.
I only have two games with Altek MPUs, but everything else is original. I very rarely wrench on any boards. If I do it's typically very minor like connectors.

Quoted from CaligoldBob:

Still no sound. Doubled checked sound board connection pins. Didn't remove board, used mirror to see, but just for my own piece of mind I'll pull the board recheck everything.
Part two, I know this is off topic a little, but I have also been rebuilding all snubber boards with the information found here at Pinside. Found two fried resistors on two different boards. Aftermarket ones not being made anymore, but from what I found here, might as well rebuild them all. One thing that has confused me. Color code shows 470 ohm resistor, but everyone here is saying 150 ohm. Also upgrading the caps. with 3000 hr. ones instead of the standard 2000 hr. Jameco here in the bay area has everything. Two diodes, one resistor, and one cap. Relays are not being touched. Should I replace them too? Has anyone had a problem with the relays?
Here's a picture of the fried resistors...
Also has anyone seen a C-11232 snubber WITHOUT a resistor? Here is a picture of a C-11232 snubber without the resistor. But if you look close, there are heat markers on the board like one was there. Very weird.
Any input?

Quoted from CaligoldBob:

Yes, I have been reading all snubber posts and it is a C-11232. I have two C-11232-1 with just a relay and a diode. Color bands on a non-burned resistor is yellow, violet, brown, gold. That means 470 ohms. This is why I have confusion. I followed the values posted on a picture in the snubber post.
One 150 ohm resistor, two 1N4004 diodes, and one 100u, 100v cap.