Thanks guys - that's helpful.

I had one pain in the ass rottendog power supply board for an older Data East. Seems they are very sensitive to fluctuations in line voltage unlike the original board.

One thing I can say nice about Rottendog is they fixed my Congo AV board for free. I was not the original purchaser and had no idea how old the board was but they still took it in. I tried finding an original but that was nearly impossible. I later replaced the mpu with a Rottendog when the original bit the dust from too much corrosion. I still had some issues with the Rottendog mpu but I believe some of that was related to a short issue I was having. It was also sensitive to what cables I used. I had all kinds of problems with that game but had no issues once I got those board issues resolved.

A bit off topic but does anyone know if the display voltage on a rottendog power supply for Williams system 11A can be dropped to around 91V by switching out 100V zener diodes for 91V diodes? Years ago I saw the mod on the old pinrepair.com website and did the mod to my original power supply to extend the life of the displays.

The high voltage circuit on my old power supply finally went bad keeps instantly blowing its display circuit fuse. I don't have time to diagnose or rebuild the old supply and just ordered a new rottendog replacement. I'd like to drop the display voltage if possible.

Cue the "Rottendog can't even spell Bally" jokes. Yes, I just received this in the mail, no I don't think I trust their boards if they can't even spell. I wish PinLED made these boards. I really also don't want to use a board made by the company that claims they make the cheapest replacement boards. Not a very bright strategy IMO.

IMG_1056 (resized).JPG

The MPU327 has problems when installed in system 7 games. Rottendog is not suggesting MPU 327 for system 7 games. Hopefully they will get this problem solved.

I have one in my Batman Forever, and it's the only SEGA game I have routine problems with. Normally resets and odd game behavior.

I have both rottendog power and dmd boards in WH2O.

Purchased them as intermediate fixes until I got around to doing the repairs/component replacements on the boards.

dmd board has been running since August with no problems and a couple hundred plays.

The power driver board was installed towards the end of November.

I read some people complain about buzzing through the speakers for certain games where the power driver board was installed. I do not have this issue on my WH2O.

Yes to the buzzing on DE games. I put a rottendog PS in my LW3 two months ago. The speaker buzz was intolerable and there is no way to correct it other than to use a standalone power supply for the sound board. I used an ATX power supply from an old computer and there is ZERO buzz now. Even the original had some buzz, but at least it was at a tolerable level.

That being said, I have a rottendog PS in a PinBot as well and there is ZERO speaker buzz with the rottendog board in that machine.

I've had good experiences with rottendog so far. They agreed to take back my board for service even though I was not the one who purchased it and don't know how old it is. Sounds like their services rates are very reasonable

I've used them with no problems.

Wow! I bought a driver board for my SFII from them and when I asked about warranty repair they replied :
"Would it be possible to get your phone number. I can relay that to my tech and see if he cant walk you through a couple things to check."

I wrote back that the board had been tested by Scott Heit, and that I wouldnt be comfortable trying to repair it myself. To that I got:

"One of the main reasons I had asked, was due to the fact of us doing warranty work in house, but not general maintenance. We have grown and are unable to keep up with the man hours it takes to do regular repairs. There are a couple companies out there that will be more than happy to get you taken care of. Ksarcade.net is one of our distributors and very knowledgeable when it comes down to tech support. Lock When Lit and Wide Area Repair are a couple others that can get you rocking and rolling!!"

The boards are so cheap (their words, not mine) they ought to just be able to throw the old one away and send you a new one under warranty.

He did mention they don't really do repairs anymore, my repair is an exception to that due to my situation I suppose

Not only is his warranty page completely blank, but he couldn't even spell "warrantee" right. There seems to be a theme here of being unable to spell, someone with that lack of attention to detail has no business manufacturing high voltage circuitry IMO.

I have a Rottendog system 11b mpu that has never been right out of the box. I've had it for sometime now due to buying original boards that work great. Who are y'all sending the rottendog board to for repair?

Look 4 posts up

UPDATE: I sent my system 3 driver board to them and they fixed it free of charge

Deep thoughts, thanks for sharing.

I've had good experiences with their power boards, but have an mpu327 that was a brick from the get-go. I think a lot of others have the same experience as well, so I'd say go for it unless you're dealing with a system 6/7 mpu, in which case avoid and get the original fixed.

I have a rottendog cpu board in my TAF, no issues whatsoever

I have a burned through hole on my CPU board from a transistor that went way hot. There is even a burn mark on the sheet metal behind the board. Someone did a hack repair job, but it worked. Had a breakdown while rocking a great game(F-14, by the way) and all kinds of problems found including many fried transistors on the CPU. Decided to throw in the towel on the CPU and installed the Rottendog boards. I have very muted sound. If you get close, you can hear something, but that's it.
Anyone have the same problem?

I'll post a picture of the old CPU for kicks.

burned board (resized).jpg

I would be repairing that rather than replacing. Not a problem to repair it and if you don't feel comfortable doing it I suggest sending it out to one of the repair guys.

$100~150 and it will be as good as new and without the replacement board "issues".

I heard that if someone has already done a hack job, they won't touch them. The guy that did the hack job repair was very heavy handed with the solder. It's a bad mess. Besides, already have the Rottendog boards now.

Have a RD MPU in my DE Starwars. Works flawlessly. Put one in my Transporter the Rescue, the game voices were shouting at me. It appears it is the notorious issue of a resister not being high enough from the audio daughter board and has an easy fix. Good luck.

Guess it depends on who you ask. I'd say 75% plus of what I do these days is fixing someone else's hack job or botched repair.

The original board can definitely be repaired. The carbon burn must be removed from the board or it will cause future failures. Time consuming, but certainly doable.

On your RD, be sure the sound connectors are connected properly at the CPU and sound board.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

It looks like system 7 games are no longer supported.
http://rottendog.us/MPU327.html

Still no sound. Doubled checked sound board connection pins. Didn't remove board, used mirror to see, but just for my own piece of mind I'll pull the board recheck everything.
Part two, I know this is off topic a little, but I have also been rebuilding all snubber boards with the information found here at Pinside. Found two fried resistors on two different boards. Aftermarket ones not being made anymore, but from what I found here, might as well rebuild them all. One thing that has confused me. Color code shows 470 ohm resistor, but everyone here is saying 150 ohm. Also upgrading the caps. with 3000 hr. ones instead of the standard 2000 hr. Jameco here in the bay area has everything. Two diodes, one resistor, and one cap. Relays are not being touched. Should I replace them too? Has anyone had a problem with the relays?

Here's a picture of the fried resistors...

Also has anyone seen a C-11232 snubber WITHOUT a resistor? Here is a picture of a C-11232 snubber without the resistor. But if you look close, there are heat markers on the board like one was there. Very weird.

Any input?

snubber3 (resized).jpg

snubber1 (resized).jpg

Original board adds more value IMHO, so whatever you decide keep the original board with the machine in case you decide to sell later.
Same for original DMD vs LED or Color LED. It's personal preference, but being old school I reckon original plasma DMD is the way to go. The sharp LED pixels don't look as good to me.

When I researched, this is what I came up with...

Pinled - works fine with original light bulbs, LED lamps can ghost
Rottendog - some people report problem boards, others say it's fine so go by what the masses say.
XPin - works fine with LED and original bulbs. If you experience flicker on the DMD, change the scan rate form 2x to 1x to suit original Plasma DMD.
Nb. Brett at XPin told me he has a new board in the works, hence why they are currently in short supply.

If it's a HV problem, avoid piggy back plug and play boards. The word is most (probably the no-name boards) are not rated for the correct voltage and can burn out.

Wasn't really impressed with Brett at xPin in my tech support request recently. I guess I need to learn to do my own repairs and not rely on anyone else.

Lots of big changes with XPin recently. IMHO nothing for the better and things are suffering greatly.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

What’s going on with X-Pin recently?

http://21-electronics.com/2015/08/18/21-electronics-acquires-xpin/

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

I was trying to set up a phone call with Brett over the course of a week, but he had a pretty narrow window of time that it would work "because he has a day job and orders to ship in the evening". So I am not sure what Brett's role has been since the acquisition. In the last email relay before the call was to happen, I told him I was becoming reasonably sure that the xPin board wasn't the issue, and was hoping to confirm that notion through the call. After that, he vanished all together. I probably won't be buying anything more from xPin unless the situation is dire.

Back to Rottendog, I have a Rottendog LED alphanumeric display in one of my DE games that works flawlessly.

Really? I must give the xpin guys a shout out. They were more than willing to email me back and forth about an issue that ended up not even being on their board. They didn't need to do it, nothing in it for them. I wouldn't hesitate to buy their product based on my experience.

Rottendog repaired my board for me when it wasn't even under warranty for a very fair price. Communication with them wasn't quite up to par, but the board works and I'm overall happy and would deal with them again.

There were C-11232-1 and C-11232-2 boards without resistors but all C-11232 boards should have a 150 ohm 1/2 watt (or larger if you are replacing them with modern) resistor.

I'm sure you stumbled on our snubber thread but here is a link just in case: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f14-snubber-board-resistor-value#post-1338358

How are you getting 470 ohms from the bands on those resistors? The first band looks red to me (2) then maybe red, then burned... so 22 something, maybe 220 ohms? Did you try and measure those? Do you have any in better shape?

When I got my JP, most of the boards in the backbox were Rottendog and the game played fine. My flipper board started to act up so I got the Rottendog replacement, to complete the set sort of. When I put it in, the right flipper was stuck on and one of the transistors burned. I sent it back to them, they replaced it, it still doesn’t work. I have a service guy who I call when I’m really in trouble and he’s fixing the old board and there’s nothing he can do about the Rottendog board. My thinking is, if you can get or fix and original board, do that. Places like Coin Op Cauldron can fix them up better than new for a similar cost to a Rottendog board. I’m not saying all their boards are bad because only one of my four is messed up but a good original board is always good.

Yes, I have been reading all snubber posts and it is a C-11232. I have two C-11232-1 with just a relay and a diode. Color bands on a non-burned resistor is yellow, violet, brown, gold. That means 470 ohms. This is why I have confusion. I followed the values posted on a picture in the snubber post.
One 150 ohm resistor, two 1N4004 diodes, and one 100u, 100v cap.

Ah, OK, the resistors you pictured didn't have only red, hence my confusion.

Looks like the capacitor is to limit charge or discharge current so I don't think it's value is absolutely critical. I'm sure either would function OK.

Here is a picture of a board before rebuilding. Note the resistor on the board. Looking at the color code shows 470 ohm. You can under stand my confusion after everything read here at Pinside. Plus parts ordered from Jameco. Two 1N4004 diodes, one 150 ohm resistor, and one 100u 100v cap. Note the double size of the cap. being 3000 hr. Standard ones are 2000 hr.

Started into this unless someone has a disagreement with my parts shown. Any input here would be great, Thanks.

snubber2 (resized).jpg

snubber (resized).jpg

It "just needs a fuse".

Jesus F-ing christ

There is a first time for everything!