(Topic ID: 239045)

Arduino Pinball Controller


By AmokSolderer

88 days ago



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    #51 10 days ago

    Hey Frank, I think C19 and C26 are mixed up on the BOM. C26 is the SMD, while C19 in throughhole. I just wanted to make sure that these are just mixed up and both are still 100n? Also, C20 is listed as throughhole, but it is SMD.

    Also, can you explain the jumper JP1 for Millionaire? I believe this would be shorted to ground, but I'm not sure how to do this. I'm assuming I just make a solder connection between two of the squares?

    EDIT: I'm pretty sure the JP1 pin that is closest to the corner of the board is ground. I jumpered it that way.
    EDIT: Displays worked!

    #52 10 days ago
    Quoted from Tranquilize:

    I had Tool playing on my machine with a sound playing every ten seconds

    Congratulations, that means you have already completed the most difficult soldering tasks.

    The sound quality should be quite good. That means if you hear some kind of noise or distortion than something is not right. A bit of static is normal of course, but it should only be audible when you turn up the volume without playing any sound. This will vanish if you later decide to use the digital volume control, because then the audio amp will be muted when no sound is played.
    With the old boards you sometimes had quite some distortion depending on lamp and display activity - this should also be gone now.

    Quoted from Tranquilize:

    On a side note, as you can see in the image, some of my connectors (volume and speakers) were different than your schematics and the Williams Millionaire manual schematic

    Sorry, but I don't see it, can you post a close up of the connectors? Basically your Millionaire should have the same connectors as my Pinbot and I didn't have any problems.

    Quoted from Tranquilize:

    EDIT: Displays worked!

    You're soldering faster than I'm able to reply.
    For the next step you need to use the normal APC.ino software instead of the Soundcheck, because the latter doesn't support the switches.

    I'll check for the BOM issues. Thanks to you there will be a new BOM coming soon with all parts having Mouser ordering numbers, but until now it's just in the AmokWork branch. I'm going to merge it to the master branch soon, but first I have to implement the new version of the USB API.

    Glad to see you're making so much progress. You have already been of great help for this project.

    #53 10 days ago

    Congratulations, that means you have already completed the most difficult soldering tasks.
    The sound quality should be quite good. That means if you hear some kind of noise or distortion than something is not right. A bit of static is normal of course, but it should only be audible when you turn up the volume without playing any sound. This will vanish if you later decide to use the digital volume control, because then the audio amp will be muted when no sound is played.
    With the old boards you sometimes had quite some distortion depending on lamp and display activity - this should also be gone now.

    The sound had a slight hiss and some tiny crackling, nothing too noticable. It was actually clearer than the game was before, so I think the sound is good.

    Sorry, but I don't see it, can you post a close up of the connectors? Basically your Millionaire should have the same connectors as my Pinbot and I didn't have any problems.

    Here is an image of how my boards are different. The schematic in the manual says J115 is for speakers, but there isn't a J115 header on the board. It turned out to be what looks to be J5 on the sound board. It also states that J16 is volume control, but the volume control was J2 on the sound board. Not sure why.

    sound-board.jpg

    You're soldering faster than I'm able to reply.For the next step you need to use the normal APC.ino software instead of the Soundcheck, because the latter doesn't support the switches.
    I'll check for the BOM issues. Thanks to you there will be a new BOM coming soon with all parts having Mouser ordering numbers, but until now it's just in the AmokWork branch. I'm going to merge it to the master branch soon, but first I have to implement the new version of the USB API.
    Glad to see you're making so much progress. You have already been of great help for this project.

    I successfully ran the full software. I was able to complete step three and check the switches. The switches worked fine, although sometimes I would get a switch repeatedly firing without clear text on the display, so I could not tell which switch. I'm not sure if this is the new 760 chip or if I actually have a sticking switch.

    #54 10 days ago
    Quoted from Tranquilize:

    The sound had a slight hiss and some tiny crackling, nothing too noticable.

    Could also be the old volume control knob. As you now have control of the switches, you could try to unplug the connector for the old volume control and use the digital one instead. For this you have to enter the System Settings then press Advance until you reach 'Speaker Volume'. The System should play the MUSIC.BIN file and you can increase the volume by pressing the 'Game Start' button.
    When there's still some crackling take a look at your speakers. I didn't realize the speaker of my JL was damaged until I tried the APC in this machine. The speaker was still good enough for the old Sys7 sounds, but it sounded lousy when the APC was playing real music.

    Quoted from Tranquilize:

    It turned out to be what looks to be J5 on the sound board.

    Ah OK, I thought you were referring to the connectors of the APC. The Sys11 Sound configuration was quite messy, because they changed it several times over the years.

    Quoted from Tranquilize:

    I would get a switch repeatedly firing without clear text on the display

    When does this happen? Every switch being triggered should leave a message in the 'Switch Edges' test.

    #55 9 days ago

    When does this happen? Every switch being triggered should leave a message in the 'Switch Edges' test.

    It appears to be working fine. I think it was just a sensitive switch.

    #56 9 days ago

    I finished the board tonight, and unfortunately, things did not go so well.

    I tried using the software to boost the volume, and I think I overheated the amp or something. I didn't notice any change in volume as I raised the numbers, then suddenly the sound became distorted and turned into a hum and shut off before I could cut the power. The amp was extremely hot after this. Now I just get crackles in time with the music and sometimes nothing. Should I replace the amp?

    The display works, but the far left digits do not light up, and some of the words/numbers are missing cells, seemingly at random. Is this more to do with code than hardware?

    I have a logic probe, but I have no idea how to use it. When I finished the board, I plugged in one solenoid plug at a time and started the machine. Each of them locks on coils an/or flashers... Sounds like I may have messed up while building part of the board... Any help would be appreciated.

    Good news: lights and switches work fine. I had a few switches that triggered twice, but if I hit them quickly, they trigger just once.

    #57 9 days ago
    Quoted from Tranquilize:

    Should I replace the amp?

    It has a temp sensor, so it should protect itself. Try it again when it has completely cooled down. Probably something is wrong with your digital volume Control, so switch the setting back to zero and use the knob for starters.

    Quoted from Tranquilize:

    The display works, but the far left digits do not light up

    That's a bad soldering joint at U14.

    Quoted from Tranquilize:

    Is this more to do with code than hardware?

    Can you make a photo of this? It it only in the lower display row? Then you have to change the Display Setting to Pinbot.

    Quoted from Tranquilize:

    Each of them locks on coils an/or flashers... Sounds like I may have messed up while building part of the board... Any help would be appreciated.

    This is probably not a big deal, but the problem is that I'm busy for the next 6 hours at least. Don't worry - we're going to fix this later.

    #58 9 days ago

    Thanks again for your help! I'm in no rush, so if you're busy, I completely understand.

    I set the music level at 00 and still just get crackles. I think something might be blown.

    I will check the solder on U14 for the left digits.

    Here is a picture of the abnormalities on the alphanumeric. The left column is out, and some of the second row displays strange artifacts. Digits work fine. I tried F14 and Pinbot in the settings, and they still display these problems.

    AlphaNumerics (resized).jpg

    Thanks!

    Lance

    #59 9 days ago

    Hi Lance,

    Quoted from Tranquilize:

    Thanks again for your help! I'm in no rush, so if you're busy, I completely understand.

    No problem, I'm back, slightly drunk but hopefully still helpful.

    Quoted from Tranquilize:

    I set the music level at 00 and still just get crackles. I think something might be blown

    That's strange. Like I wrote the IC has a temperature protection, so it won't die from overheating. That means if it's really blown than something has killed it and we should find out what it was before we put the next IC at risk. Most probably it's a short somewhere.
    Let's first measure your speaker. Please unplug the speaker connector from the APC (10J2) and measure the resistance of the APC pins and the speaker cables to GND. None of them must have a resistance of less than 1Kohm to GND.
    Then try whether the amp IC still get's hot with the speaker connector and the volume connector (10J4) removed and the digital volume set to 00.
    Also check the voltage at pin 3 of the TDA. This is the volume control, which means the voltage at this pin should be 0V when the voltage control is set to 00 and then rise when you increase the setting until it reaches 5V at a setting of 255. After that, set the volume setting back to 00 and connect the manual volume control (10J4). When you turn the knob, the voltage should vary between 0V and 5V but it must never exceed 7V.
    Also note that the manual volume control must always be unplugged when using the digital volume control, but even if it's not it shouldn't damage anything.

    Quoted from Tranquilize:

    some of the second row displays strange artifacts.

    This is due to a wrong display setting. The default setting of the APC is for both rows having alphanumerical displays. That means the APC treats your lower display row like alphanumericals which leads to these artifacts.
    It's the first entry in 'System Settings', the default is '4Alpha+Credit', press 'Start' to change it to 'Sys11 Pinbot'. After that proceed to 'Exit settings' which should write this setting to your SD Card. After that the artifacts should be gone (if not do a power cycle).

    To be continued ...

    #60 9 days ago

    Ok, I checked the resistance on the plug, and it looks good. However, the voltage on the volume control is a constant 0.29v, with digital volume. I set the digital volume to 00 and 255.

    The physical pot showed 0.29V and jumped to a max of 0.5V when turned up. Pin 5 is at a constant 5V. When I first turned the machine on, it did play some distorted music for about 15 seconds, so maybe it isn't fried

    When I was testing the board, I had it resting on a towel, but maybe the corner of the board touched metal? Would this create the sound issue? I don't think this is the case, but it is possible. I have since mounted the board to prevent any possible shorts.

    I did change the display to pinbot and F14, but both display some minor artifacts in the lower row. Some of the pics are in the settings, but I did save beforehand and power cycle. See Pic below.

    AlphaNumerics2 (resized).jpg

    #61 9 days ago
    Quoted from Tranquilize:

    the voltage on the volume control is a constant 5v, regardless of the volume plug or not.

    That's good news, because it means that it's just your volume control causing the problems. Apparently the control voltage is stuck to the maximum volume which leads to distortion and overheating of the amp. Please unplug the manual voltage control (10J4), remove R70 and measure the voltage again. If it's still stuck to 5V then you have a short to 5V somewhere near C4, R76, C10 or even at pin 3 of the TDA itself. If it's close to 0V now, reconnect 10J4 and you should be able to use your sound with the manual voltage control. In this case check the soldering joints of Q5 and R68.

    Quoted from Tranquilize:

    I did change the display to pinbot and F14, but both display some minor artifacts in the lower row. See Pic below.

    Look good to me. The lower display row of your Millionaire has only numerical displays and that's how it looks when the APC tries to show characters on them. But you're only going to see this in the settings, because in the game mode the lower row is only used for numbers.

    The next steps involve the use of your logic probe, so let's first make sure that we're talking about the same thing. Your logic probe should have a GND and a supply cord, each with a clamp. A tip of course and two LEDs (probably red and green), one for high and one for low logic level.

    Unplug connector 1J1 of the APC, then connect the supply clamps of the logic probe to +5V and GND on the power board of your Millionaire and power it up - both of your LEDs should be unlit as well as the Player 1 and the Player 3 display. Now try all pins of connector 1J1 with your logic probe. Both LED should light up which means that the pin is toggling. I expect that to happen at every pin except pin 7, as this is the one responsible for your leftmost Display column. If no LED is lit at this pin you have a bad solder joint at your connector, if only the high level LED is lit, the bad joint is probably at pin 2 of U14.

    Try the logic probe also on all pins of the Solenoid Drivers (1J11, 1J12 and 1J19) with the connectors unplugged. Both LEDs should stay off, but as you said all coils at one solenoid connector were being activated I expect the low Level LED of your logic probe to be lit at these pins. It would be important to know whether this is the case for all pins of all solenoid connectors or just for some of them.

    Cheer up - we're making progress. I'm confident you're Millionaire is going to work soon.

    Frank

    Edit: fixed some typos

    #62 9 days ago

    Sorry, I was counting pin 5 as pin 3 The voltage is not at 5... was pin 5. Sorry! I edited my previous post.

    #63 9 days ago

    Okay, I reflowed all of U14 and the left display column now works!

    I reflowed the amp as well. Now I'm getting really high temps on the amp again and around 1.5V. I will reflow all of the parts you mentioned that are inline with the amp. It's strange that it worked well for a while then stopped...

    As for progress, I am very happy so far!! The display is working along with the switches and lamps. Thanks so much!

    #64 8 days ago
    Quoted from Tranquilize:

    Sorry, I was counting pin 5 as pin 3 The voltage is not at 5... was pin 5.

    OK, I've attached a pic of the TDA pinning, because we should be very clear on what pins we're talking about. I also added a picture to the docs which should help to identify the connectors:

    https://github.com/AmokSolderer/APC/blob/master/DOC/PICS/APC_Connectors.png

    For the following test you should unplug the speaker connector (10J2) in order to protect the amplifier.

    As your problems started with the digital volume control it's probably a good idea to disconnect it. As mentioned above you can do that by removing R70 on the APC board. After that reconnect the volume connector (10J4 or 1J16 for Sys11), power up and look what happens to the voltage at pin 3 of the TDA when you turn the old volume control knob. Can the voltage be smoothly adjusted this way or do you read sudden jumps to 5V?
    If this looks good you should be safe to try the sound again. For this you should adjust the volume to a low level (low voltage at pin 3) and reconnect the speaker connector. Now play some music and try if the manual volume control works.
    Depending on your results we can decide how to proceed.

    Good luck

    Frank

    TDA_pinning (resized).PNG
    #65 8 days ago

    Hi Frank, The pin I'm testing is the third from the bottom, which is the second one in the front row (facing inside the board). That is the one that appears to match the diagram.

    I took out R70 and hooked up the board leaving the speakers unplugged. When I first tested the voltage with the pot turned down, it about 3v but was rising. I tested the pot at full, and it was rising and went up to 7V . After that jump, the voltage then went down to 0.9V and stayed there. Once it stabilized at this low voltage, I could adjust from 0.6v to 0.9v with the pot. I let the game sit for a while and tested two more times. Each time, there was no spike. The voltage was 0.5v at low pot and 0.7v at high pot.

    The initial spike would explain why I'm getting a moment of distorted sound when I first turn on the game after a long rest. Yesterday I had some erratic moements of sound returning here and there. Any idea on what would cause this?

    #66 8 days ago
    Quoted from Tranquilize:

    The pin I'm testing is the third from the bottom, which is the second one in the front row (facing inside the board). That is the one that appears to match the diagram.

    Sounds completely correct and I might be getting paranoid, but I've attached another picture anyway - just to be very sure.
    Please check the GND of your multimeter also, the 'Solenoid GND' connector of the APC is a good place to connect it to. Pardon my scrutiny, but you can get all kinds of strange results if the ground connection is bad.

    However, if all the above is correct and the voltage at pin 3 of the TDA is still as you've described then please measure the same at pin 2 of the voltage control connector (10J4). Can you now use the pot to control the voltage?

    TDApin2 (resized).JPG
    #67 8 days ago

    We are on the same page with pin 3 on the TDA .

    Pin 2 of j4 allows me to control the voltage. The range is 0.07v - 10.7v.

    #68 8 days ago
    Quoted from Tranquilize:

    We are on the same page with pin 3 on the TDA .

    I guessed so

    But the result of all of this: you have a break between both pins and it is probably a loose connection at R76 - Please check the solder joints.
    To check the connectivity, disconnect the volume connector J4 again, do not power up the board and measure the resistance between pin 3 of the TDA and pin 2 of J4. When everything is right, the resistance should be 300K.

    #69 8 days ago
    Quoted from AmokSolderer:

    I guessed so
    But the result of all of this: you have a break between both pins and it is probably a loose connection at R76 - Please check the solder joints.
    To check the connectivity, disconnect the volume connector J4 again, do not power up the board and measure the resistance between pin 3 of the TDA and pin 2 of J4. When everything is right, the resistance should be 300K.

    I get 288.3k

    #70 8 days ago

    Just like this or did you resolder it?

    #71 8 days ago
    Quoted from AmokSolderer:

    Just like this or did you resolder it?

    Without soldering. I think that measurement is fine, correct?

    #72 8 days ago

    That measurement is fine indeed.

    But the sound has worked before, so we're dealing with a loose connection which means it can be OK in one second and then gone. You're close, it has to be there somewhere. May be try to apply some pressure to the resistor and remeasure it. Or just try to resolder it and then check again if you're able to control the voltage at pin 3 of the TDA with the pot (reconnect J4 of course

    #73 8 days ago
    Quoted from AmokSolderer:

    That measurement is fine indeed.
    But the sound has worked before, so we're dealing with a loose connection which means it can be OK in one second and then gone. You're close, it has to be there somewhere. May be try to apply some pressure to the resistor and remeasure it. Or just try to resolder it and then check again if you're able to control the voltage at pin 3 of the TDA with the pot (reconnect J4 of course

    I replaced R76 with a new resistor and made sure it was connected well. I get 299k resistance, so the new resistor seems to be connected fine. After reconnecting the board (including J4) I tested pin 3, and it is the same. 0.6 to 0.9v after it settled. This time it started at 4v with the pot at zero and climbed down to 0.6 range.

    I'm going to examine and reflow the audio area of the board. Any other ideas as to what I should be looking at? Is it possible that the amp was shorted? Capacitor issue?

    #74 8 days ago

    Is it also possible that I shorted the amp just by touching it to metal? I don't think this occured, but it is possible. I could replace the amp as I do have one spare...

    #75 8 days ago
    Quoted from Tranquilize:

    Is it also possible that I shorted the amp just by touching it to metal? I don't think this occured, but it is possible. I could replace the amp as I do have one spare...

    I don't think so. For some reason you cannot control your voltage at pin 3 any more. From the voltage readings you get it sounds like the pin is not connected and floating, which would result in random volume levels with a strong spike after turn on (which is what you see). As long as we're not able to adjust the pin 3 voltage the amplifier cannot work properly.

    Could you please measure the voltage between both pins pf R76 with the same setup as above and see if the voltage changes when you turn the pot?

    #76 8 days ago

    I reflowed everything in that zone, and I was able to control the voltage with the pot. However, it did go up to 7 volts at the highest point of the pot. I turned it down to around 2.5v, turned off the machine, then plugged in the speakers. I had normal sound and was able to control it. Then it started to get louder, so I felt the amp and it was super hot, so I turned down the pot. The music went down a bit, but it was still pretty loud for having the pot at zero. At that point, I turned it off.

    I'll check the R76 voltages with the pot and report back.

    Thanks again for all of your help. This must be a pain in the ass!

    #77 8 days ago
    Quoted from Tranquilize:

    This must be a pain in the ass!

    Oh yes it is, but that's not your fault. You just have one nasty problem there.

    However, you should be able to mute the sound with the pot, so something's still not right there.

    And let me rephrase my latest statement. Of course it is also possible that the pin 3 of the TDA itself is faulty and causing a current which spoils the voltage at this pin. But I don't just want to replace it because these pins don't die easily and I don't want to put the next amp at risk. We have to find the root cause first.

    So please disconnect your speaker again, then try to unsolder pin 3 of the TDA and lift it until it has no electrical connection to the pad any more (I know this wont be easy). Then try the standard measurement again (adjusting the voltage with the pot), but measure the voltage at the pad now being empty, not at the lifted pin.

    #78 8 days ago

    Back. With the pot set to zero, R76 registers as 0.07v on toward the outside of the board and the solder joint facing the inside mirrors pin 3 of the TDA, which was 2.6 and dropping.

    #79 8 days ago
    Quoted from Tranquilize:

    and the solder joint facing the inside mirrors pin 3 of the TDA, which was 2.6 and dropping.

    With pin 3 being lifted? That would mean the TDA is not damaged.

    OK C10 is the last device left, please remove it and try again.

    #80 8 days ago

    It looks like the issue may not be the TDA as the votage was still high (1.9v) when I pulled pin 3 and tested the board with the pot set to zero. It also had spiked voltage when I turned the machine on.

    #81 8 days ago
    Quoted from Tranquilize:

    It looks like the issue may not be the TDA as the votage was still high (1.9v) when I pulled that pin and tested the board with the pot set to zero. It also had spiked voltage when I turned the machine on

    Do I get you right that with pin 3 lifted you get the correct voltages on the outer pin of R76, but the same strange voltage readings at the inner pin of R76?

    #82 8 days ago
    Quoted from AmokSolderer:

    Do I get you right that with pin 3 lifted you get the correct voltages on the outer pin of R76, but the same strange voltage readings at the inner pin of R76?

    The pin was not lifted when I checked R76. Did you want me to check R76 again?

    #83 8 days ago

    Removed C10. I still get high voltage (2.2v) at pin 3 of the TDA (pin removed, testing on the board itself). R76 still gives the same readings: no voltage to the outside, equal voltage (2.2V) to the inside.

    Edit: all with pot at zero.

    Edit: removed wrong cap. Be right back!!!

    #84 7 days ago

    My last post was accurate. Removing C10 did not change the voltage...

    #85 7 days ago

    Hi Lance,

    it's still getting more strange. Either we have some misunderstanding or things are really weird on your board. To prevent the former let me just summarize what we did and what the results were. I have attached a picture of the circuit we're dealing with. As you can see this is nothing fancy.

    At the beginning you removed R70 to disconnect the digital volume control. After that it's just the pot, a bit of RC filtering and the input pin of the TDA. For clarification I have named the input side of R76 (the pin closer to the rim of the board) as 'Node A' and the other pin of R76 (which is connected to pin 3 of the TDA) as 'Node B'.

    Our goal is to use the pot to control the voltage at Node B, but for some reason you can only control the voltage at Node A, but not at B.

    At first you checked R76 to ensure that the electrical connection between Node A and B is OK. You used a multimeter to measure the resistance between A and B and found it to be in the range of 300K which is fine. You even measured this resistance between pin 3 of the TDA and pin 2 of J4 to check the corresponding board traces also.

    As the voltage at Node B was different from Node A and R76 was fine, it had to be a current through R76 causing a voltage drop at this resistor. But this current has to come from somewhere so we tried to exclude the possible candidates. First you lifted pin 3 of the TDA and after this didn't help you also removed C10.

    However, when I got you right then all of this didn't help, the voltages at Node A and Node B are still not equal, right?

    That means we still have a voltage across a resistor and according to ohms law this requires a current. But since you have removed all electrical connections except the resistor itself there should be no path left for the current to use and that means there has to be an unwanted current path from Node B to somewhere else.

    Please check the pads of R76, C10 and pin3 for possible shorts. It might be a barely visible droplet of solder, so try to use a magnifier. And be sure to check the pad of pin 3 also on the top side of the board, may be something is hidden there. Try to measure the resistance between Node B and it's neighbours as well as GND, +5V. None of these values should be less than the value of R76, because this should be the only way out for the current.

    Even though it is extremely unlikely, it might also be a board manufacturing problem. We know, that the design and layout is working, because several people are using it already, but it might be an issue with your particular board. Therefore please take a close look at the board traces also.

    I'm afraid that's all I can do for you from the technical point of view. If all of this doesn't help we can try to setup a Skype meeting to look together.

    Good luck

    Frank

    APC_Audio (resized).png
    #86 7 days ago

    Thanks so much Frank. I'll look over everything today. I replaced all the resistors and tiny capacitors last night, and everything worked fine, even the volume control at the pot, but I noticed the pot is dirty and kept sending voltage spikes. Now I'm back to where I was before. I don't know if the pot has anything to do with it, but it did function for about 10 minutes. As you say, it is more likely a short with my soldering.

    #87 7 days ago
    Quoted from Tranquilize:

    but I noticed the pot is dirty and kept sending voltage spikes.

    Yeah, but that's normal with the old pots. In the end I would recommend to use the digital voltage control anyway, but before we have to find out what causes your problems.

    Like I wrote above, the critical point is that you have measured different voltages at Node A and Node B. This can only have two possible reasons, a damaged R76 or board trace (which is not the case according to your measurement) OR a current through R76.

    Let's assume there is an unwanted current path to Node B and it's so well hidden that you're not able to find it. Then let's try to avoid Node B by building a new one. Just put R76 vertically on the pad belonging to Node A without the second pin touching Node B, do the same with C10, solder it vertically on the GND pad without the second pin touching Node B. Then simply connect the lifted pins of R76 and C10, power up and measure the voltage at Node A and the two connected lifted pins. If your problem has something to do with the board trace then you should now be able to control the voltage at the connected lifted pins with the pot, because we avoided the trace completely.
    If it works you can also lift pin 3 of the TDA again to disconnect it from the pad and use a wire to connect it to the lifted pins of R76 and C10.

    #88 6 days ago

    Wauw nice post and a lovely project!

    This is what I'm looking for my "Programming with Arduino MCU" lessons!

    I'm going to order the board, are there other people that need 1 board (Need to order min5pcs!), area Rotterdam Netherlands?

    #89 6 days ago
    Quoted from AmokSolderer:

    Yeah, but that's normal with the old pots. In the end I would recommend to use the digital voltage control anyway, but before we have to find out what causes your problems.
    Like I wrote above, the critical point is that you have measured different voltages at Node A and Node B. This can only have two possible reasons, a damaged R76 or board trace (which is not the case according to your measurement) OR a current through R76.
    Let's assume there is an unwanted current path to Node B and it's so well hidden that you're not able to find it. Then let's try to avoid Node B by building a new one. Just put R76 vertically on the pad belonging to Node A without the second pin touching Node B, do the same with C10, solder it vertically on the GND pad without the second pin touching Node B. Then simply connect the lifted pins of R76 and C10, power up and measure the voltage at Node A and the two connected lifted pins. If your problem has something to do with the board trace then you should now be able to control the voltage at the connected lifted pins with the pot, because we avoided the trace completely.
    If it works you can also lift pin 3 of the TDA again to disconnect it from the pad and use a wire to connect it to the lifted pins of R76 and C10.

    I went over the simple circuit very carefully. I checked terraces and replaced everything. The voltage remained. I replaced the amp and the voltage is now fixed! It now reads at close to zero volts closed. However, the pot or power supply appears to be the culprit. I'm getting just over 10v from the power supply, and the pot allows far too much voltage after 50% volume. This means that the dirty pot was spiking to well over 5 volts, possibly to 10, which seems to have fried the amp. To compensate, I have cleaned the pot and I'm in the process of lowering the volume of the sound file by 10db to help with the speakers drawing so much power. I'm also going to reconnect the digital path to see if it's voltage remains in the correct range. I'm being very careful with testing.

    Edit: Should I be getting 10v from the supply? 5 seems more appropriate, but the spec for the amp says it can 8v (maximimum input voltage) if I'm reading correctly.

    Edit: my power supply is a rotten dog replacement of that makes a difference.

    #90 6 days ago
    Quoted from Tranquilize:

    Should I be getting 10v from the supply?

    I have to study the schematics to see if that's possible. I never had any problems with my Pinbot though, which is the same generation as your Millionaire. However, 10V at the volume pin could possibly fry the amp, as the max voltage at this pin is specified with 7V.

    Quoted from Tranquilize:

    I'm in the process of lowering the volume of the sound file by 10db to help with the speakers drawing so much power.

    I wouldn't do that, because it'll cost you some audio quality. Just disconnect the pot by unplugging J4 and just use the digital volume control instead. It cannot cause any damage, as it applies 5V max. I use a volume setting of 35-40 and never got any problems. The worst thing to happen is that the amp gets too hot and mutes the speaker, but it's not giong to be damaged by this. If this happens, you can just apply a heatsink to it's back. I never had the need to do it, but that's the reason the amp is sitting at the rim of the board.

    Concerning your solenoid issues. Are all three solenoid connectors (J11, J12 and J19) affected or is it only one?
    If you don't want to use your logic probe as I described in the assembly help wiki you could also use your flippers to check. There is probably an extra two pin connector for pin 1 and 2 of 1J19 (APC connector 2J12) - this is for the flippers. The advantage is that they wont suffer from being acitivated permanently, so you can use them to probe whether the coil drivers of a certain connector are powered or not. Just connect the small connector to the one you want to probe and try the flipper buttons, if the coil driver is active then the flippers will work.

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