(Topic ID: 260651)

Arctic gun by Williams


By yosam2002

62 days ago



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  • 40 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 days ago by Coindork
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    #1 62 days ago

    Hello to all . I am a new member to your forum.
    I recently purchased a gun game called Arctic gun. It is in pretty rough shape but could quite possibly be brought back to life. I have been cleaning the machine up but have found some issues. The motor that runs the bear has a large gear that is stripped out. (8-10 teeth are flat). Can this motor by fixed with a new gear? If so where should I begin my search for the gear?

    The beat score stepper unit has a broken finger arm.
    Im pretty sure this can be repaired but I have no idea which row of contacts the broken finger belongs to.

    I have not done much resto work on these EM machines though maybe 7-8 years ago I restored a 1946 Fishing Well by Mutoscope. It is a conversion game that originally was Atomic Bomber. I have also completely restored a 1936 Buckley Deluxe digger machine. My main interest in coin op is mechanical gambling machines.(slot machines, trade stimulators etc.).
    Looking for some advice as to how to proceed on this project.
    Scrap it and part it out?
    Attempt to bring it back to life?
    Paid $100 for but its rough probably been exposed to the outdoor elements for a time as there is water damage to this machine. Not wanting to dump loads of cash into this machine but if I get it to operate would like to really clean it up with a new back glass and some new graphics as well as a paint job.
    Thanks for any assistance and guidance.
    Sam

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    #2 62 days ago

    I've got one of these in my garage.
    Cool games where you shoot a polar bear, penguin, seal and even a walrus LOL.
    My vote is restore it.
    Cant have enough EM shooting games in the world.

    #3 62 days ago

    Coin dork
    Thanks for the encouraging words! Any chance you could snap a pic of that beat score stepper unit on the wiper side?
    Thanks
    Sam

    #4 62 days ago

    Fun gun game.

    #5 62 days ago
    Quoted from yosam2002:

    Coin dork
    Thanks for the encouraging words! Any chance you could snap a pic of that beat score stepper unit on the wiper side?
    Thanks
    Sam

    Sam,
    There you go man.
    When you get further into it, if you need any other pics let me know.
    Cheers
    Kent

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    #6 62 days ago

    Thank you Kent!

    #7 62 days ago
    Quoted from yosam2002:

    Thank you Kent!

    No worries.
    Does your game have the gun?
    I don't know if you know this or not, but that game has a real 22 caliber rifle mounted on it for the gun.
    The barrel has been cut off and plugged and the bolt action is non functional, but it's a real gun.
    I guess it was cheaper to buy a 22 rifle to use for the game than it was for them to manufacture a mock gun part.
    Pretty interesting anyhow.

    #8 62 days ago

    Yes the game has the gun and yes I have been reading up on this machine and read where the stock and the barrel are Remington rifle parts.
    The machine appears to be complete but in rough shape very dirty and dusty with some rust and other water issues

    #9 62 days ago

    Cool man.
    As long as it's complete, I'm sure it can be fixed.

    #10 62 days ago

    These games are pretty easy to get working.
    If the cabinet can be repaired to at least be sturdy it's worth getting going.
    Steve at pinball resource can help you get a new wiper arm for the stepper (plus a schematic).
    What does the gear look like? A metal fabrication shop may be able to make a new one.

    #11 61 days ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    These games are pretty easy to get working.
    If the cabinet can be repaired to at least be sturdy it's worth getting going.
    Steve at pinball resource can help you get a new wiper arm for the stepper (plus a schematic).
    What does the gear look like? A metal fabrication shop may be able to make a new one.

    Here are 2 pics of this gear it’s the gear with the arrow. Looks possibly like 2 gears in 1 . The larger portion of the gear has about 8-10 teeth have been worn off.
    Can this motor be disassembled? If so maybe I can locate a donor motor for parts?
    The motor itself is the motor that runs the bear drive chain.
    Thanks
    Sam

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    #12 61 days ago
    Quoted from Coindork:

    Sam,
    There you go man.
    When you get further into it, if you need any other pics let me know.
    Cheers
    Kent[quoted image][quoted image]

    Kent
    Here is a picture of the other side of the stepper unit. It shows a switch but I don’t see anything that would activate the switch. Am I missing part of this stepper assembly?
    Thanks
    Sam

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    #13 61 days ago
    Quoted from yosam2002:

    Here are 2 pics of this gear it’s the gear with the arrow. Looks possibly like 2 gears in 1 . The larger portion of the gear has about 8-10 teeth have been worn off.
    Can this motor be disassembled? If so maybe I can locate a donor motor for parts?
    The motor itself is the motor that runs the bear drive chain.
    Thanks
    Sam[quoted image][quoted image]

    I've heard of those brass gears losing teeth. Would be pretty tough to locate another gear box these days. I know Steve at PBR rebuilds the motors and has a little machine shop, worth asking if he can fix it!

    #14 61 days ago

    Whats the number on that motor? It should be on the outside casing along with RPMs

    #15 60 days ago
    Quoted from yosam2002:

    Here are 2 pics of this gear it’s the gear with the arrow. Looks possibly like 2 gears in 1 . The larger portion of the gear has about 8-10 teeth have been worn off.
    Can this motor be disassembled? If so maybe I can locate a donor motor for parts?
    The motor itself is the motor that runs the bear drive chain.
    Thanks
    Sam[quoted image][quoted image]

    This guy has tons of motors. ebay.com link You just need the RPM and Spec Number to find a match.

    #16 60 days ago

    Is this different from Polar Hunt? Also by Williams just a few years earlier.

    http://www.pinrepair.com/arcade/polarhu2.jpg

    Thanks
    Blake

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    #17 59 days ago
    Quoted from smohr:

    Whats the number on that motor? It should be on the outside casing along with RPMs

    Tag on this motor reads :
    50 volt
    60 cycle
    Bear run motor
    100 RPM
    14A-7825
    344-12

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    #18 59 days ago

    Flippers has one but it's pricey: https://www.flippers.com/catalog/product_info.php/reversing-motor-rifle-game-p-4842
    I'd call Steve at PBR and get a quote on him fixing it.

    #19 59 days ago
    Quoted from edward472:

    Flippers has one but it's pricey: https://www.flippers.com/catalog/product_info.php/reversing-motor-rifle-game-p-4842
    I'd call Steve at PBR and get a quote on him fixing it.

    I had Steve at PBR rebuild my 1969 Williams Phantom Gun motor and it ran around $100.00 + shipping both ways.

    #20 59 days ago
    Quoted from edward472:

    Flippers has one but it's pricey: https://www.flippers.com/catalog/product_info.php/reversing-motor-rifle-game-p-4842
    I'd call Steve at PBR and get a quote on him fixing it.

    I saw that motor $195 is not in the budget for this unknown condition machine

    #21 55 days ago

    Ok quick up date on this machine. I don’t want to throw money into a dead horse, if I can bring it to life the bear motor will be rebuilt by Steve. I conntacted him he says the motor is no big deal and can be repaired.

    I have made a temporary repair to the broken stepper finger by riveting a small piece of aluminum to the finger and another rivet was installed as a wiper conductor. These are small brass spread rivets which Were installed then cut and pounded flat with a small ball peen hammer.

    As of now the score motor runs continuously until the fuse blows.(circuit breaker)Hopefully I can somehow isolate this problem. Any suggestions on this issue would be very much appreciated.
    I have a copy of the schematics but don’t really know how to interpert them properly. I think if a wiring diagram were available it might easier to follow???

    Machine is also in need of a new back glass. The cardboard graphics will need work. This is only happening if the machine comes back to life.

    Sam

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    2 weeks later
    #22 39 days ago

    For sale first $250 takes it
    In California central valley
    I’m tired of it can’t get to work let one of you EM guys bring it back to life.
    Its in rough shape but I believe it’s all there

    #23 38 days ago
    Quoted from yosam2002:

    For sale first $250 takes it
    In California central valley
    I’m tired of it can’t get to work let one of you EM guys bring it back to life.
    Its in rough shape but I believe it’s all there

    I'd throw an ad up on Pinside and Facebook. These don't pop up too often anymore so should hopefully be an easy sell.

    1 week later
    #24 27 days ago

    No longer for sale at this time.

    Just about have this machine working. Machine will reset but the score reel stops just before the switch drops in the divet to shut it off and enable the rifle to shoot. If I turn it by hand it will drop into the switch divet and the gun will shoot.
    Anyone know why the cam seems to stop to soon?
    Thanks
    Sam

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    #25 26 days ago

    I'm no expert on those Williams switch wheels, but I'd inspect what's making the motor turn off. Or perhaps there's a way to calibrate that last wheel to make it turn that last little bit.

    Glad to hear you've got it going!

    #26 26 days ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    I'm no expert on those Williams switch wheels, but I'd inspect what's making the motor turn off. Or perhaps there's a way to calibrate that last wheel to make it turn that last little bit.
    Glad to hear you've got it going!

    Thank you for your reply.

    Yes I have been all over that wheel. A lot of the times it lands in the right spot and I can continue to shoot. But I still haven’t isolated the specific issue.
    A few other hiccups I’m working on as well, that same wheel doesn’t rotate far enough on a 30 point hit. It generally works right on the higher point hits. That 30 point row just isn’t working right.
    Next hiccup, the rifle aim seems way off. Is there a way to zero the rifle?
    Anyway it is nice to be moving in a positive direction! I’m starting to believe this 53 year old game is going to back to life!

    #27 26 days ago

    On mine (Midway games) the rifle moves an arm underneath. At the end of it is a pin that makes contact with a plate with metal contacts on it. Be sure that plate is clean and lightly lubricated. There are adjustments to move the plate to adjust aim. I line the rifle up with a known stationary target, then move the plate to match the position of the rifle arm pin to the contact on the plate. Here’s a video I made describing it

    #28 25 days ago

    Hey dudah
    Just revisiting this post this morning. Havent watched the video yet.
    Update gun is pretty much zeroed. It was brought to my attention from another gun game enthusiast that the “stylus board” has adjustments. I look at stuff and look at stuff it’s right in front of my face yet don’t see it. Anyway Will look at your vid as there is always room in my head for different information. Getting it to stay inside, that’s another story.

    The next issue is the low score row of targets(walrus , penguin etc)and figuring out why they don’t signal the score reel to turn far enough to reset the rifle to fire? The mid target(bear)and upper target(moving star)reset the score reel to the proper position and the rifle continues to shoot.

    Thanks again for the help
    Sam

    #29 24 days ago

    Good morning
    Got the rifle zeroed.
    Still looking for the reason the gun quits firing when a lower 30 point target gets hit? On that white roller bundle in the picture the 30 points hit(penguins walrus) the switch stack on the right stops about 45 degrees away from the divet. The gun won’t shoot if the stack doesn’t come to rest in the divet on the white wheel.
    If anyone has advice it would be great.

    Are these white reels that run the switch stacks available for sale? If I can find one of those I could possibly modify it to have a switch stack stop at 4 places
    instead of 2.
    Thanks
    Sam

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    #30 24 days ago

    Not sure why that would be, does it feel like it's sticky?
    Taking the mechanism apart carefully (take lots of pictures), cleaning and relubricating as needed may fix it.
    Flippers.com may have the discs, and Steve at PinballResource may. Otherwise they'd be a prime candidate for 3D printing.

    #31 23 days ago

    It’s alive!!!

    #32 22 days ago

    The solve for this issue was the center wheel (30 point shot wheel) was installed by a previous owner in the wrong position.

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    #33 22 days ago

    Thank you to everyone here for your help with this project.

    #34 22 days ago
    Quoted from yosam2002:

    Thank you to everyone here for your help with this project.

    Awesome job sticking with it bother.
    Glad it worked out.

    1 week later
    #35 12 days ago

    Hello again!
    Does anyone know if the cardboard fluorescent graphics on the inside of this machine can be reasonably reproduced?
    Thanks
    Sam

    #36 12 days ago
    Quoted from yosam2002:

    Hello again!
    Does anyone know if the cardboard fluorescent graphics on the inside of this machine can be reasonably reproduced?
    Thanks
    Sam

    Is yours missing? Or is the ink just not all that reactive now?

    #37 12 days ago
    Quoted from Coindork:

    Is yours missing? Or is the ink just not all that reactive now?

    Get a scan from another owner.
    You can print stuff real cheap at posterprintshop.com
    Since you'll already have scans, you can make stencils for the UV inks and airbrush those on last.

    This guy did a great job - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/restoring-fluorescence-to-interior-artwork

    #38 12 days ago
    Quoted from Coindork:

    Is yours missing? Or is the ink just not all that reactive now?

    Hey Kent
    No not missing just dirty and ugly water stained. White is the worst.
    Sam

    #39 12 days ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    Get a scan from another owner.
    You can print stuff real cheap at posterprintshop.com
    Since you'll already have scans, you can make stencils for the UV inks and airbrush those on last.
    This guy did a great job - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/restoring-fluorescence-to-interior-artwork

    Looks like quite the interesting read. I started it but will have to wait for some spare time to reread abd process all that info and measure whether I am up to a challenge
    Thanks
    Sam

    #40 12 days ago
    Quoted from yosam2002:

    Hey Kent
    No not missing just dirty and ugly water stained. White is the worst.
    Sam

    Sam,
    Before you go recreating or restoring the art, try cleaning it.
    If the art is really dusty try wiping it off with regular old sliced white bread.
    It’s moist enough and soft enough that it will remove the dust without messing up the art.
    Cheers
    Kent

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