(Topic ID: 194240)

Arcade monitor question

By cdnpinbacon

4 years ago


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  • 72 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by cdnpinbacon
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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There are 72 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 4 years ago

Good stuff. Shut her down for the night and will take some more pics tomorrow.

#52 4 years ago

This is a REALLY good video about arcade monitors. If you have any doubts about doing the work, HIRE SOMEONE!

#53 4 years ago

I will check out the video for sure.
Been looking at some convergence repair videos. Mark the fin position, loosen and adjust accordingly...

#54 4 years ago

Are there any components that would really benefit from a que tip and electronics cleaner spray?

#55 4 years ago
Quoted from cdnpinbacon:

I will check out the video for sure.
Been looking at some convergence repair videos. Mark the fin position, loosen and adjust accordingly...

But what you want to look for FIRST is if there are already white marks on the rings that might not line up any more. If they are there but not all in a line, you should put them back so that the white marks all connect. And that marking is usually placed at 12 o'clock.

This might correct the majority of the error.

#56 4 years ago
Quoted from futurepinhead:

I've personally never heard of a Neo Geo using a 26" so I'm not going to be of any use. I've had 4 Neo Geo's and they all had a 25". I have a friend with a 19" in theirs and I have another friend who has a cabaret one with 13".

Op is in Canada. What we refer to as a 25" CRT is considered 26" in Canada (measured across the entire diagonal surface of the tube, not the viewable area). It wasn't uncommon to see CRT T.V. boxes marked 25" (26" CA) back in the day.

#57 4 years ago

I can't wait to get home from work to work on it! I thought it was pooched

#58 4 years ago

Didn't think of that Jack...thank's

#59 4 years ago

Once this is complete...on to the re-capping. Also bought some rubber gloves.

#60 4 years ago

What kind of silicone should I buy?

#61 4 years ago
Quoted from cdnpinbacon:

What kind of silicone should I buy?

Any silicone is fine. Your choice of color. They used both white and black back in the day (clear is fine too). You are not looking to weather caulk a window or anything. Just placing a flexible bead across it. For the cost of a tube, I wouldn't even bother with it unless I had some laying around already.

#62 4 years ago

Adjusting with success...
The monitor is starting with much faster, almost instant brightness. I messed a little too much and have blue slightly off.

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#63 4 years ago

Like you said Jack, won't be perfect and I'm already very happy with the results so far. No capping needed for now. Will de-gausing also improve the image? Should I even bother at this point?

#64 4 years ago

Degaussing is normally only necessary if the corners are badly discolored. And I mean a wash of the wrong color or a rainbow etc. Not just that the three color guns don't line up there (that's convergence and purity). This distortion is often introduced by powering up the game facing one way, and then turning it to face another direction. My normal suggestion to the people that work our arcade floor is to: Turn the game off, let it sit 10 minutes, move it to where you want, let it sit 10 minutes, and then turn it on. This allows some of the magnetism to diminish and it also allows the Auto-Degaussing circuit to cool off enough to provide another "Zap" to the coil upon next power up. You can also rotate the cabinet watching the picture to see if there is a direction where everything looks the best. Then, leave it there and follow the instructions above to move it how you desire it to stay.

Of course, the metal chassis can also be magnetized and sometimes the only way is with a professional degauss coil. Its rather hard to clear this kind of distortion by just using an Electric AC drill motor (a home brew degaussing coil). If you do have an actual degaussing coil, then go to town on it. If you haven't seen instructions elsewhere for using it, the technique is to power it up flat to the screen. Roll it around the screen in a swirling motion trying to cover all the territory. Ending by moving it to center. Back off with it still flat to the tube (and still powered). Once you get about 10 feet away rotate the coil to be perpendicular to the screen (90 degree rotation), and then turn it off.

#65 4 years ago

Excellent! thanks again to everyone. Arcade is in place and good to go!

#66 4 years ago

My trick for degaussing an arcade monitor is to take a CRT PC monitor, put it face to face with the arcade one (while they are both on) and hit the degauss button on the PC monitor. Works incredibly well.

#67 4 years ago

off on vacation starting tomorrow so I will be taking the time to fine tune and apply the silicone. I did notice when I turn the machine on with a cold start, red seems to take a minute before it comes on.

#68 4 years ago

My cabinet has a "trace light" for the 6 slot marquees...can I jump a wire over the rust marks or is there a trace solder available? Only 1 square lights up. I'll post pics after work.

#69 4 years ago
Quoted from cdnpinbacon:

My cabinet has a "trace light" for the 6 slot marquees...can I jump a wire over the rust marks or is there a trace solder available? Only 1 square lights up. I'll post pics after work.

The panels that light up are usually burnt out and are not cheap to replace. Most people put a single fluorescent tube up there.

#70 4 years ago

I had recently read that people are getting smaller UL's and making their own to fit the rectangles. Supposed to be a fraction of the price. I cannot verify this since all of mine have always been replaced with a florescent. I'd be curious to see if something could be done with LED strips.

#71 4 years ago

There is a place not far from me that supposedly sells the actual filament (sayal is the name of the franchise store) used to repair the traces. this I have got to see and try.

#72 4 years ago

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There are 72 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.

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