Quoted from yzfguy:Cool, thanks! And wet sand with those? I have a whirlwind lockdown bar I'd like to make nice, but I have a spare I plan to practice on.
I do dry, but you can do wet. I like the grained look more than the polished look.
Quoted from ralphwiggum:I do dry, but you can do wet. I like the grained look more than the polished look.
Thanks guys. I'm gonna try it out. Sorry to derail.
Quoted from yzfguy:Thanks guys. I'm gonna try it out. Sorry to derail.
To be fair, the lockdown bar does touch the front cabinet decal... lol
Quoted from Blackbeard:My backbox has some dinged up corners. Is really bondo the stuff to use here? I've never used it prior.
I'd love to get away with something like wood filler for corners, as they're really not bad.
Bondo is great for general repairs as it sands down easily. It'd probably be fine for the back box. However, I wouldn't use it on corners/edges. Corners tend to get "dinged" as yours already have. And bondo doesn't hold up well to impacts. I'd look at getting "Bondo Glass" instead:
Quoted from ralphwiggum:If you want to regrain a lockdown bar, grab these- amazon.com link »
Stay the same direction as the grain, you will be done in no time....
yup, what I use on mine.
Quoted from ralphwiggum:I like the grained look more than the polished look.
I agree... I prefer the grained look over polished. Especially, when the glass side rails are the grained look. I've used 300-400 grit wet/dry sandpaper with hard rubber sanding pad to re-grain too.
Thanks. I already checked with them and apparently Classic Arcades now sells them. And that’s where I ordered.
The color is pretty off. I’m not sure whether to send them back or not. It’s not like decals are readily available.
I have had pretty good luck with decals from here...But I want to make it clear that I have not personally seen their BC decals to give you an opinion on the color...
https://pinballdecals.eu/shop/bad-cats-pinball-cabinet-decals-set/
Shipping is about 3 weeks
20191206_062656 (resized).jpgThanks Cosmo. I am going to check with them.
The only thing I noticed was the William's "W" was cut out of the head decals in the picture. Not sure if that's how they come or not.
They are skirting around licensing by not posting pic with the W. Same thing on the other decal sets they sell, look for any Williams/Bally logos or words, not there in the item pics
Quoted from Blackbeard:My new cab decals. [quoted image][quoted image]
I will just say this, and I've dealt with dozens of sets of decals/artwork. When compared to originals, repro decals may be somewhat off on colors. I couldn't tell you how many times I've seen this with plastic sets too. Once the game is done, I doubt no one will look at it and say it's wrong, unless you had an original game sitting next to it, which you won't.
Quoted from ralphwiggum:Its the process of sanding with water. You will want a sanding block and real fine sand paper. Apply a bit of water, and sand "wet" for a super smooth finish.
If someone wants to wet sand before applying decals, there's no harm, but it's totally not necessary. That's going way beyond what's needed.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:I will just say this, and I've dealt with dozens of sets of decals/artwork. When compared to originals, repro decals may be somewhat off on colors. I couldn't tell you how many times I've seen this with plastic sets too. Once the game is done, I doubt no one will look at it and say it's wrong, unless you had an original game sitting next to it, which you won't.
That's what I'm debating at this point.
The issue I had Bryan is that I didn't want to paint the top and back of the backbox, as I was hoping they'd match the decal's color. Now, if I'm going to be a perfectionist, i'll have to do so. I just don't own a spray gun and I'm positive I'd never get a good match with rattle.
I don't know. I've contacted the outfit in Europe and i'll see what they say.
Quoted from Blackbeard:That's what I'm debating at this point.
The issue I had Bryan is that I didn't want to paint the top and back of the backbox, as I was hoping they'd match the decal's color. Now, if I'm going to be a perfectionist, i'll have to do so. I just don't own a spray gun and I'm positive I'd never get a good match with rattle.
I don't know. I've contacted the outfit in Europe and i'll see what they say.
You'll have this issue with every head that's not painted black. WH2O and WW blue come to mind. I don't care who makes the artwork, they won't match the blue on the head. In your case, no one will match the orange on your game.
It also has to do with colors fading. Your orange will look different than the orange on someone else's game.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:You'll have this issue with every head that's not painted black. WH2O and WW blue come to mind. I don't care who makes the artwork, they won't match the blue on the head. In your case, no one will match the orange on your game.
It also has to do with colors fading. Your orange will look different than the orange on someone else's game.
Makes sense.
I just didn't want to get into spending a ton on paint sprayers, etc. I did see harbor freight has some very inexpensive ones however. I'd think for the limited purpose I'd be using for, maybe something like that would work.
Quoted from Blackbeard:That's what I'm debating at this point.
The issue I had Bryan is that I didn't want to paint the top and back of the backbox, as I was hoping they'd match the decal's color. Now, if I'm going to be a perfectionist, i'll have to do so. I just don't own a spray gun and I'm positive I'd never get a good match with rattle.
I don't know. I've contacted the outfit in Europe and i'll see what they say.
Another option is to get some paint swatches and match the cabinet decals. Get a quart mixed of the proper color, and use a standalone hvlp kit. You CAN get good results with those guns with proper thinning and technique. I am not a huge harborfreight fan, but here is a standalone kit that is the right size for pinball application. (I have actually seen people paint cars with these that turned out really nice- which is crazy to me).
https://www.harborfreight.com/high-volume-low-pressure-spray-gun-kit-44677.html
Quoted from ralphwiggum:Another option is to get some paint swatches and match the cabinet decals. Get a quart mixed of the proper color, and use a standalone hvlp kit. You CAN get good results with those guns with proper thinning and technique. I am not a huge harborgreight fan, but here is a standalone kit that is the right size for pinball application. (I have actually seen people paint cars with these that turned out really nice- which is crazy to me).
https://www.harborfreight.com/high-volume-low-pressure-spray-gun-kit-44677.html
I think our posts crossed in the mail, so to speak.
Yes, I could just use the decal scraps to get a match at Home Depot, they purchase a sprayer.
Quoted from Blackbeard:I think our posts crossed in the mail, so to speak.
Yes, I could just use the decal scraps to get a match at Home Depot, they purchase a sprayer.
HAHA.... yep.... those turbine sprayers would be fine for pinball application. Oil and water based based should have no problem with them.
Quoted from ralphwiggum:HAHA.... yep.... those turbine sprayers would be fine for pinball application. Oil and water based based should have no problem with them.
Don't you need to buy a huge air compressor too?
UGH
Quoted from Blackbeard:Don't you need to buy a huge air compressor too?
UGH
No, those are different...... Check out turbine sprayers. They are often called HVLP (because of the style of the gun), but what you want is turbine. HVLP is a gun style that is found on turbine sprayers and traditional air compressors.
The link I posted was for a Harborfreight style turbine system, there are quite a few out there.
if you only need to spray a small area and you have an automotive paint supply place near by, they can color match your decal with automotive enamel and put it in a "rattle can" for you. Assuming you can achieve decent results with a can, it could be a reasonably priced option.
What did you guys use as an instrument to smooth out the decal when you’re applying it? And where did you get it?
Quoted from Blackbeard:What did you guys use as an instrument to smooth out the decal when you’re applying it? And where did you get it?
Quoted from ralphwiggum:If you want to regrain a lockdown bar, grab these- amazon.com link »
Stay the same direction as the grain, you will be done in no time....
Got these today, thanks again! Didn't realize they are gynormous, I was picturing little rectangles like a dish sponge, these things should last me a lifetime 
Quoted from ralphwiggum:Another option is to get some paint swatches and match the cabinet decals. Get a quart mixed of the proper color, and use a standalone hvlp kit. You CAN get good results with those guns with proper thinning and technique. I am not a huge harborfreight fan, but here is a standalone kit that is the right size for pinball application. (I have actually seen people paint cars with these that turned out really nice- which is crazy to me).
https://www.harborfreight.com/high-volume-low-pressure-spray-gun-kit-44677.html
Would this be a good beginner spray kit?
Quoted from chad:Would this be a good beginner spray kit?
For sure... I personally don’t have this turbine kit, but have seen good results with turbines. There have been lots of mixed reviews on using turbines with paints and catalysts, as the catalyst uses air to work.
Hit up the google machine to review turbines. There are lots of great results with oil and water based paints... and some great results with lacquers as well.
Quoted from yzfguy:Got these today, thanks again! Didn't realize they are gynormous, I was picturing little rectangles like a dish sponge, these things should last me a lifetime
They are huge, for best results, I like to fold them to get more pressure on them. They seem to last forever too.
Quoted from yzfguy:Got these today, thanks again! Didn't realize they are gynormous, I was picturing little rectangles like a dish sponge, these things should last me a lifetime
Better yet, get flap wheels. Something like these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z4DK/
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:I recommend cleaning both the cabinet and the paper side of the artwork. Paper side of decal has dust and lint on it that will land on your smooth cabinet and look like pimples when you're done.
Prior to application, how do I clean the paper side of the decal?
Also how do I clean cab? Naptha?
Quoted from ralphwiggum:For sure... I personally don’t have this turbine kit, but have seen good results with turbines. There have been lots of mixed reviews on using turbines with paints and catalysts, as the catalyst uses air to work.
Hit up the google machine to review turbines. There are lots of great results with oil and water based paints... and some great results with lacquers as well.
Thank you!
Quoted from Blackbeard:Prior to application, how do I clean the paper side of the decal?
For me... I use a clean micro fiber towel and spray, then wipe all sides (top of decal, bottom paper side and cabinet) with my "wet solution". I've used water w a dash of Dawn liquid soap, in spray bottle. Others recommend Rapid Tack. It appears to be a cleaner as well.
On my next cab re-decal job... I'm going to try Rapid Tack.
Quoted from Blackbeard:Is there something I should clean the cab with prior to decals? Like naptha or something?
I replied #88... maybe someone else can contribute.
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:I use the plastic squeegees from Tap Plastic (a little larger than a credit card). I cut the square edges round w scissors. Those square edges can and will scratch most shiny / glossy artwork.
Or just get decal squeeges like these... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HPYRPB0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00 right shape and already felt covered.
Quoted from Blackbeard:Thanks
What did you use for a primer? I think my options are limited to rattle cans. Was thinking Rustoleum paint and prime.
Priming with a high fill primer or filling with a skim coat is key. The wood will often be very porous.. and every dent, mark, or blemish will transmit through the decal. High fill primer then sand, or filler+primer+sand.
Surface prep is the big difference between glass smooth, and defects being seen through the decals.
Quoted from Blackbeard:Guys: can I get away with wood filler on this stuff or do I need to go Bondo?
These repairs aren’t really bad.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
You are really on the edge there if bondo filler is enough.. or if you should be using fiberglass resin. Resin is more durable and less likely to chip back off, but requires some extra steps to apply and is harder to sand than just straight filler.
Many of your questions are covered in detail in this thread - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cabinet-restoration-vids-guide
My bigger concern from that photo is the amount of planking you have in the wood. That's gonna take a lot of sanding to get flat and should be filled or prime to get a uniform surface again.
Also, a tip I would give someone looking to have a great looking end product... don't skimp on prep'ing (filling, sanding, squaring up) any of the visible surfaces. You may think the face of the backbox looks fine, and you aren't decaling that edge.. but when it's next to all your finished perfect surfaces.. it will stand out like a sore thumb. Sand, fill, prep, all the external surfaces. Cabinet head top, front edges, back, etc.
Quoted from Blackbeard:Is there a way to prevent lock down bar from scratching things up?
Put adhesive felt on the back edges. Looking good well done.
Quoted from Yelobird:Put adhesive felt on the back edges. Looking good well done.
Great idea.
I know about cutting out area where cab leg protectors will be screwed on to prevent wrinkling, but what about bolts, like for coin door and lockdown receiver? Besides cutting out those holes, should anything special be done to prevent wrinkles there?
Quoted from Blackbeard:Still some trimming to do and the straight edge but it came out better than I thought[quoted image]
All this work and you have not sanded the bottom of the cabinet. 
I am kidding , the decals look great!.
Quoted from chad:All this work and you have not sanded the bottom of the cabinet.
I am kidding , the decals look great!.
Was thinking about it actually. I’m sure I will once things are done.
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