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Quoted from Whysnow:you fogot the bulbs in WH2O topper
All that matters is you enjoy them.
Nope - I bought the Great Lakes topper board which enables LED's up there.
Btw, in person, these look killer - the pic came out like a cartoon. The incandescents looked drab and dark - you couldn't see the artwork
Took a few more pics up close, but WH20 doesn't look anywhere near as blue and flat as pic. Much more subtle.
Quoted from swampfire:Did you check your GI connector to see if it was toasted? That's usually the problem.
Nope - that wasn't an issue. I just don't appreciate how flat and dim incandescents are, particularly in a dark environment.
Quoted from pezpunk:i will say in his defense, generally cameras greatly amplify the intensity of colored GI.
Exactly. The pics don't look anything like the reality... The WH20 has frosted blues from Art in the GI's where appropriate - that's all. They're not "purple", they don't look like "pink elephants"... they match the plastics they're under, and match the water theme. They are less distracting than white GI's since they're actually more muted.
No, they're not what the game shipped with in 1993.
And they do look much better in person.
They just don't photograph well.
Quoted from MK6PIN:That shot looks pretty good!!!...are you using cool white under the inserts? Can never really tell with photos (I take the worst), but the white under your yellow inserts look like they are clear, or no cap, ...the frosted 2led sunlights definitely seem to soften and disperse the light really well.....I just mention this because I was unhappy w "spotlight effect" under some of my inserts, and those bulbs really did the trick for me.....
Nice machine btw (will have one someday, hopefully).....
The inserts are all color-matched and non-ghosting.
Btw, this is my second WH20 - and it's a complete restoration - including new clear coated Mirco PF, all new PF parts - ramps/targets/mountains - literally everything... New flipper builds... New boards... New speakers... Color DMD... All new topper dome, light boards... New glass, legs and on and on...
Switched out a few more blues for whites in the lower GI - looks very good. I started to switch some on the upper PF, but the whites were distracting... The blues look much better. Think I'm done...
Again, in person the lighting looks spectacular - and I would even dare say "tasteful." No sore eyes... Original game colors are vibrant and true. More visible than they ever were with incandescent.
This picture is grossly over-saturating the reds and blues, but here you go anyway...
Actually, a game lit white LED's in most rooms/venues captures more of the true intent of the designer's art direction. You can actually see their work.
Conversely, it is hard to make out the color via the dim, muted and yellow incandescent light. Unless you're in a very well lit room. But, hey, that was the only option for these guys.
I suspect that many of you look at this through the prism of nostalgia: these games were all lit this way when you played them years ago, so that's what feels "right."
As for colored GI lighting, that does change the "look" of a game. In some spots and instances it works. But is a departure, no question.
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:My first WH20 was $800 and TOTAN $2200. Times have changed. LEDs must have made up the cost difference...
That's just pure supply and demand economics, my friend. If you bought games like WH20 for $800 - consider yourself blessed.... That's a 500%+ appreciation, and if you bought a lot of games like that, you have helped your family (while having a lot of fun, of course).
I'm one of the suckers who paid today's prices.
As for LED's - I have a pin up for sale that I have offered to custom tailor the lights for the buyer, in part due to the opinions expressed in this thread.
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