I *hate* the Sega mechs; they work, but their travel is materially too great and they're just sloppy even with new parts, making passing and such a chore compared to what I'm used to on my Williams games. Trying to swap in parts of the Williams mechs hasn't led to joy; that works too (building a hybrid) but the issue with travel remains, never mind leading me to have to keep different parts around.

I have figured out how to make the Williams base plates fit with only a minor modification to the plate, and the stock coils will fit as they're the same size as the Williams 11629/11630 coils, so that should be ok too.

But Sega uses a very different electrical setup for their flippers; there is only one coil, and they drive it with both low and high power (that is, there's no "hold" coil as there is on a Bally/Williams setup.) Their coil spec is allegedly 22 gauge wire, 1080 turns. That doesn't match any of Williams/Bally coil winding counts but the listed resistance DOES match the 11630..... so should I just stick with the Sega coils or is there a compatible Williams that will work while just using the power winding (e.g. the 11630 coil)? In addition their EOS is normally closed BUT low-power. I think I can re-form the NO gold-contact Williams fliptronic switch to work NC (tungsten NC switches probably won't be as reliable given that this is a signal and not a power connection) but that still leaves the coil question.

(First blush appears to be "no" on that but just wondering if anyone has done this and if so if they liked the results...)

Well, the baseplates will fit. The bottom wings can be made to work by removing one hole on each side, so it'll be six screws instead of 8, but the four at the pivot remain unmolested and that's where the heavy load is. Further the same sort of "one side removed" thing is present in one of my Pin2k tables and it's been fine.

The easy path is to leave the Sega coils in there but my parts box has Bally/Williams coils in it already, and if I do lose a coil in the future if I can swap in one of them that would be excellent. I'm suspicious though because with coils ohms are usually a simple function of the number of windings and gauge of the wire, yet what I have as a spec for the Stern coils and for the Bally/Williams blue show the same gauge of wire but very-materially different turn counts -- with the same ohms!

Done, with the Sega coils, and I like the results. The vertical travel is materially lessened and (as expected) strength is unchanged. That is, the "up" position of the flipper is at less of an angle. Player-perceptible results are:

1. It's (much) easier to execute a pass from one flipper to the other; with the factory setup it is VERY hard.
2. "Catch-n-flip" capability on inbound balls is much improved.
3. Precision on shots rolling down the flipper is materially improved, especially on the DOCK (and other "wide") shots.
4. "Save" percentages where the ball is headed to the drain on somewhat of an angle and you need to do a combination to tip-n-flip is improved (with the factory setup a lot of those go *behind* the first flipper and the ball drains.)
5. But... it's *harder* to cradle (by quite a bit; typical Williams); the factory setup makes cradles ridiculously easy.

Is it worth it and do I recommend it? Uh, yeah. I *much* prefer this setup to factory. As I side effect I now also only need one type of flipper rebuild kit....