(Topic ID: 266549)

Apollo 13 cant get off the ground. (FIXED)


By Three60in

9 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 60 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 months ago by vireland
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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There are 60 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 9 months ago

Been working on this Apollo 13 for months now. Had all boards sent off and checked. I replaced a few suspicious connectors, installed color dmd.

Game wont start. I have all 4 LED lights on io power. But no leds on cpu. Ive checked power going in at connector 5v, 12, -12 all there. Also checked test points on cpu show 5v on the board test point. But no leds. Game wont start up. Any ideas?

Previous owner replace 2 connectors on the display power board before i got it. I believe they are correct. Can anyone upload a pic or confirm i have the wires correct.
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#2 9 months ago
Quoted from Three60in:

Been working on this Apollo 13 for months now. Had all boards sent off and checked. I replaced a few suspicious connectors, installed color dmd.
Game wont start. I have all 4 LED lights on io power. But no leds on cpu. Ive checked power going in at connector 5v, 12, -12 all there. Also checked test points on cpu show 5v on the board test point. But no leds. Game wont start up. Any ideas?
Previous owner replace 2 connectors on the display power board before i got it. I believe they are correct. Can anyone upload a pic or confirm i have the wires correct.[quoted image][quoted image]

I'd put the original display back in first.

Then once you have the machine working, install the color DMD. Less problems to check for that way.

More pictures of the whole backbox to see how things are hooked up. When you upload them, select "original size, no rescaling" from the dropdown box so pinside doesn't reduce them. They need to be big so they can be zoomed in on.

#3 9 months ago

I replaced the power connector for cpu and j15 on power driver.

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#4 9 months ago
Quoted from Three60in:

I replaced the power connector for cpu and j15 on power driver.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Where did you measure the 12v and 5v power on the CPU and power driver board?

#5 9 months ago

5v was measured here. The 12v were measured from back of connector.

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#6 9 months ago
Quoted from Three60in:

5v was measured here. The 12v were measured from back of connector.[quoted image]

Measure at the BOTTOM of the connector. Depending on what kind of connector you used, maybe the insulation wasn't totally pierced and it's not making a good connection with the board pins, so power isn't being transferred. Also with the machine on, try applying pressure to the power connectors in different directions to see if it's a bad connection.

Have you tested all the fuses out of the board (sometimes they test okay falsely in the machine)?

#7 9 months ago

I checked all fuses. But I will pull them off the board and test them. It thought the same thing about the connector. But I was showing voltage so assumed that the connector was working.

#8 9 months ago
Quoted from Three60in:

I checked all fuses. But I will pull them off the board and test them. It thought the same thing about the connector. But I was showing voltage so assumed that the connector was working.

Voltage at the top doesn't always mean voltage at the bottom. Since you made the connectors (they're not factory) that's a good place to start looking closely (after testing all the fuses out of the machine).

#9 9 months ago

Nicely timed thread - they splashed down in the South Pacific 50 years ago today!

#10 8 months ago

Update: Pulled every fuse and checked them. All test good. Check MPU for cracked solder joints on the connectors. They really all looked ok. But heated them up just to be safe.

Still not getting a start up. Game powers up, you can hear the speakers pop, display powers but is black. GI comes on. But no life.

This one has me stumped.

#11 8 months ago

Not sure if the door interlock switch could have a fault in it.

#12 8 months ago

I noticed that if the coin door isnt shut I only get 2 of the 4 lights. Shut the door. I get 4 LEDs. but no action.

#13 8 months ago

Looks like your Battery holder might be in bad shape. Looks like the top contact is missing and the middle one has turned blue.

#14 8 months ago
Quoted from grumppy:

Looks like your Battery holder might be in bad shape. Looks like the top contact is missing and the middle one has turned blue.

Would that cause it not to start? Or are segas like WMS. Where they boot then give error message. I will check for volage.

#15 8 months ago

Checked batteries 1.5v each. Check leads to board 4.75v. I believe thats in range. Should be good there.

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#16 8 months ago
Quoted from Three60in:

Would that cause it not to start? Or are segas like WMS. Where they boot then give error message. I will check for volage.

It's not so much voltage as did any of that spread to the chips below the battery area (which it commonly does). Take a closeup, hi-res pic of that whole area.

#17 8 months ago

No spread.. but i should re-seat the chips. Il try that next

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#18 8 months ago
Quoted from Three60in:

No spread.. but i should re-seat the chips. Il try that next[quoted image][quoted image]

It might be the angle, but U213 looks suspect. Can you take a shot of that from the right side so the pins on that side are more visible? They look corrosion-dull.

#19 8 months ago

I think its just the angle 213 legs look shiny.

Reseated all chips on mpu. Still nada

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#20 8 months ago
Quoted from Three60in:

I think its just the angle 213 legs look shiny.
Reseated all chips on mpu. Still nada[quoted image][quoted image]

Wrong side of U213. The other side.

#21 8 months ago

Looks like U213 has battery acid all over the pins right at the board solider pads. Maybe causing resistance between them from the pic.

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#22 8 months ago

I really dont see any acid damage. It looks very clean. Not even a hint of it. I know its hard to tell but the board is shiny and clean. Feet arent fogged also board by holder is clean like bran new. Usually you can tell if someone tried to clean it up.

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#23 8 months ago

Sorry i know my super close ups arent the best.

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#24 8 months ago

Bad rom?

#25 8 months ago

Maybe is there anyway i can check that? Measure voltage on the board someplace and say well. If it has power here its gotta be a bad rom? Im new to fixing segas.

#26 8 months ago

Right side of U213 seems bad, but I can't tell from the pics for sure. The bluish tint of the solder on that side is usually a telltale sign.

Anyway, here's a chart of the continuity between pins you need to check to make sure they're all talking ok. U209 is CPU, U210 is EEPROM, and U212 is RAM. Unfortunately all are in the area often damaged by leaking batteries (even if it was cleaned up before you got it).

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#27 8 months ago

Excellent. I will check these and report back.

#28 8 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Right side of U213 seems bad, but I can't tell from the pics for sure. The bluish tint of the solder on that side is usually a telltale sign.
Anyway, here's a chart of the continuity between pins you need to check to make sure they're all talking ok. U209 is CPU, U210 is EEPROM, and U212 is RAM. Unfortunately all are in the area often damaged by leaking batteries (even if it was cleaned up before you got it).
[quoted image]

I was thinking behind the whole chip and the blue looking line between the pins. That shouldn't be there. It's acid damage.
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#29 8 months ago
Quoted from erak:

I was thinking behind the whole chip and the blue looking line between the pins.[quoted image]

Left side has the look, but it's more pronounced on the right side because there's dullness on the pins, too. So yeah, pretty sure that adds up to some issue with U213.

#30 8 months ago

Your remade plug at CN2 Does not look correct, is there a red/white wire connected with the gray/white 12 volt wire? When comparing to pics online there is only 4 wires on that plug. Yours looks like it has 5. If so this could be some of the problem.

#31 8 months ago

Game came with this wonderful hack. (CN2 not pictured but also looked like this) So i replaced the connectors because someone soldered wires in. I put new crimps and connectors in. So thats why i initially wanted to confirm the wires. Thanks for the heads up.
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#32 8 months ago

Also these are not my zipties. So something was added or modded. Can someone send a pic of their cn2? So i can match wires.

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#33 8 months ago

I confirm that your display connectors are wired correctly and that your CN2 is strangely wired. Here is a pic of my CN2.
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#34 8 months ago
Quoted from Three60in:

Also these are not my zipties. So something was added or modded. Can someone send a pic of their cn2? So i can match wires.[quoted image]

Do you have the original DMD? I'd still recommend going back to a fully stock setup until you get it working right, then add the colordmd back in after that.

#35 8 months ago

Unfortunatly the dmd was shot. I no longer have it. I had to buy a new display controller board. Hence why i jumped to a color dmd.

That cn2 needs another look. This pin sure has a story to tell...

#36 8 months ago

The A13 I purchased a couple of years ago had no display and no sound. Pressing start started the game though. I ended up replacing the DMD to fix the display issue and the U212 RAM on the CPU/Sound Board to fix the sound issue. Going back to the original DMD is certainly worth a try.

#37 8 months ago

Thanks for the help guys. This game feels like somethings not plugged in. Ya know. Anyone whos been around pinball knows that feeling of.. oops i missed a plug. Then find it and it works. Well a wire wrong on cn2 could be the issue.

#38 8 months ago

You may want to trace down where the red wire that is attached to the Gray wire goes because 12 volts was sent to the other end. Red wires are normally 5 volts. Maybe both reds that are on the CN2 plug.

If you don't have a manual it might pay to get one.

#39 8 months ago
Quoted from Three60in:

Also these are not my zipties. So something was added or modded. Can someone send a pic of their cn2? So i can match wires.[quoted image]

Does your game have the extra loose connectors on the left side under the power supply? Would it be possible that the previous owner cut into one and added it to the C2 .
Hence the double red wires and gray wire.

#40 8 months ago
Quoted from grumppy:

You may want to trace down where the red wire that is attached to the Gray wire goes because 12 volts was sent to the other end. Red wires are normally 5 volts. Maybe both reds that are on the CN2 plug.
If you don't have a manual it might pay to get one.

Yep I have a manual and will start my hunt from that CN2. For sure.

#41 8 months ago

OK Updates 4/27/20
Checked extra wires on my cn2. they run to a game counter down by the coin door. This game is a reimport so possibly something to do with that. Pulled fuse on the small game counter board. No changes.

Check continuity from chart above. NOTE: VCC on u212 does not go to leg28 it goes to a diode (D200)then to pin 28. in case anyone else has to test their board.

All continuity is ok. reseated all chips. No change.

I can confirm power is getting into the board however I did notice 5v is actually 4.8V. I know games can be picky about getting exactally 5v. Im a right to suspect that this could be the reason for no power up? I checked voltage coming out of power board is 4.8 and noticed my 4 main leds are lit but my 5v led is not lit. Is that pot next to the led able to be adjusted? I see its set from factory.

#42 8 months ago
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#43 8 months ago
Quoted from Three60in:

OK Updates 4/27/20
Checked extra wires on my cn2. they run to a game counter down by the coin door. This game is a reimport so possibly something to do with that. Pulled fuse on the small game counter board. No changes.
Check continuity from chart above. NOTE: VCC on u212 does not go to leg28 it goes to a diode (D200)then to pin 28. in case anyone else has to test their board.
All continuity is ok. reseated all chips. No change.
I can confirm power is getting into the board however I did notice 5v is actually 4.8V. I know games can be picky about getting exactally 5v. Im a right to suspect that this could be the reason for no power up? I checked voltage coming out of power board is 4.8 and noticed my 4 main leds are lit but my 5v led is not lit. Is that pot next to the led able to be adjusted? I see its set from factory.

Does the D200 diode have continuity from one side to the other?

#44 8 months ago

Just realized I was reading MV 4.8 MV milivolts. ITS NOT GETTING 5V! Darn autoranging meters tricked me.

Still hasnt booted but Im onto something now.

#45 8 months ago

Yes, you can adjust that pot to get the voltage up to 5v.

EDIT: But, no, it won't get you from 4.8mv to 5v. Your problem is elsewhere.

#46 8 months ago

Thanks I may have to do that. Let me dig a little deeper into this 5v issue.

#47 8 months ago
Quoted from Three60in:

Thanks I may have to do that. Let me dig a little deeper into this 5v issue.

I'd check the bridge rectifier at BRDG21. There's an "OK" with two dates to the left of it in your picture of the board, but maybe that's for the bridge rectifier above the writing, I can't tell. Also, those two dates pretty close together. If that rectifier blew within 3 months, either the board work was bad or there's a problem somewhere else that's blowing the rectifier. Given the writing on the board, this BRDG21 rectifier seems very close to your 5v problem, if not the problem itself.

OPs that write on circuit boards drive me crazy.

#48 8 months ago

OK Checked brdg21 got 13.5V DC out of the bridge. I tried adjusting the pot it only adusts the from 4.5-5.0 MV.

#49 8 months ago

Bad regulator?

#50 8 months ago
Quoted from Three60in:

OK Checked brdg21 got 13.5V DC out of the bridge. I tried adjusting the pot it only adusts the from 4.5-5.0 MV.

Are you measuring the 5v at R114?

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