I have some createx opaque here. Very much a novice & I know transparent paint won't go on as solid or could get darker or lighter in spots if you don't have an even spray or the right amount.
I'm tempted to get a huge set of Wicked colors just to make color matching easier. Are there tips to get this to go on as if it is opaque? Or am I better off sticking with opaque?
I am right where you are. I am waiting for my Sparmax tc-2000 compressor to show up today. I have been experimenting with airbrush painting now for about two years. I have used a cheap one for awhile now with acrylic water based paints with good results. Now its time to step it up with nicer equipment. I got my Sparmax Max 35 Airbrush yesterday. I did the armor on this SS.
B73813D4-F560-4FB9-8A90-B4EA2A1028F8 (resized).jpegQuoted from robx46:I know transparent paint won't go on as solid or could get darker or lighter in spots if you don't have an even spray or the right amount.
I've only used transparent for backglass repair. On a playfield or cab, you want the opaque.
20170709_163957 (resized).jpg20170730_141137 (resized).jpg20171026_055423 (resized).jpg20180222_203030 (resized).jpgTransparent paints are great for color transitions, such as feathering between two colors on the Silverball Mania shown above.
In some cases you can layer them to create different effects, or transparencies.
I used to use Tamiya 'clear' series paints a lot for lenses and stuff too.
Most playfield work you want to stick with the opaques though.
I've used the transparent sometimes as a tint, using an opaque base.
-Hans
Quoted from Atari_Daze:I've only used transparent for backglass repair. On a playfield or cab, you want the opaque.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Great work! I suppose that is a perfect use of transparent paint! But you are right I'd likely never encounter a situation where it is required.
Quoted from HHaase:Transparent paints are great for color transitions, such as feathering between two colors on the Silverball Mania shown above.
In some cases you can layer them to create different effects, or transparencies.
I used to use Tamiya 'clear' series paints a lot for lenses and stuff too.
Most playfield work you want to stick with the opaques though.
I've used the transparent sometimes as a tint, using an opaque base.
-Hans
This is exactly the answer I was looking for. Thanks. I better get good at color mixing. I wish createx had a larger selection of opaques.
Quoted from robx46:I wish createx had a larger selection of opaques.
They actually do, you mention wicked, that is Createx. My local Hobby Lobby has a great selection. Between plain Createx and Wicked, I've yet to need a color they did not carry.
I always have to mix to the desired result but have always been able to do so with their supply.
Do some experimenting with thinning, I know they state it is not required but in my limited experience, it is highly suggested.
I used to struggle painting based on their no thinning required comments but once I started mixing with some thinner, my stress level dropped exponentially.
Quoted from Atari_Daze:They actually do, you mention wicked, that is Createx. My local Hobby Lobby has a great selection. Between plain Createx and Wicked, I've yet to need a color they did not carry.
I always have to mix to the desired result but have always been able to do so with their supply.
Do some experimenting with thinning, I know they state it is not required but in my limited experience, it is highly suggested.
I used to struggle painting based on their no thinning required comments but once I started mixing with some thinner, my stress level dropped exponentially.
I thought I read that wicked are transparent paints?
Whenever it comes to thinning paints of this nature, if you aren't familiar with paint chemistry, get the thinner marketed by the company selling the paint.
Sometimes there are odd things in the thinner and using the wrong stuff can make your life miserable.
-Hans
This is from createx website...
"Made with lightfast pigments and an exterior-grade resin, Wicked Colors™ is a multi-surface, water-based airbrush paint suitable for any surface. Wicked Colors are transparent with a high pigment-volume, so they cover semi-opaque out-of-the bottle and may be over-reduced to create very transparent colors for detailed artwork."
So they are transparent, according to them?
Quoted from robx46:may be over-reduced to create very transparent colors
I think they are mincing terminology, and I think this has actually come up before in regards to heat cure, them vs. experts on here...
if you "over-reduce" (thin them to the extreme) you can achieve transparent. I can tell you from my experience, > the way I apply them (the Wicked line), they are NOT transparent. <
20180416_233156 (resized).jpg20180416_233507 (resized).jpg20180416_233740 (resized).jpg20190325_200506 (resized).jpgQuoted from Atari_Daze:I think they are mincing terminology, and I think this has actually come up before in regards to heat cure, them vs. experts on here...
if you "over-reduce" (thin them to the extreme) you can achieve transparent. I can tell you from my experience, > the way I apply them (the Wicked line), they are NOT transparent. <[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Good to know. I'm guessing you are using little to no reducer?
Correct, very little thinning, just enough to get the consistency that sprays good. I also almost always spray a base coat of light gray as primer. They sell one but I just make my own with leftovers.
That blue on Atlantis required NO primer, I think I sprayed that right out of the bottle of W013 Laguna Blue with only slight thinning, no mixing at all.
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