I just did the BOP super complete (w/ non-ghosting upgrade). I'm happy with the lights & the service (very good service after some mixups), but I think the website is pretty horrible for differentiating between bulbs, kits, etc. I'm going to order some new items because I'm not exactly happy with the "kit".

My problems are with the GI, you're going to want to either stick with incandescent or maybe go frosted (this is what I'm planning to do), as the bright LED's just don't provide adequate lighting in that area. Also, if you have any lights that are exposed to your eyeball during play, I'd go frosted or incandescent as well. My wife plays a little lower than me, and she was getting blinded by the LED's in certain areas under the plastics that were at her eye level. I would say the same for the backglass.

I bought a set for a SM i had, looked great but the directions leave you scratching your head on what's what and where it goes. If they had a layout grid with exactly what they added to each spot it would be easier to figure out where they go. That being said I was very happy with the results after switching things around for a few hours longer than it should have taken.

I've bought kits for Tron, transformers, potc, and the shadow. All great kits!! Easy to install! Don't need a outline. The kits go through the lamp diagnostic order on your machine. Just go to the lighting tests on your machine any cycle all the way through. 1-xx.
I usually install a complete kit in just about an hour or so. I sometimes make changes when all installed to make it unique. I've had a few issues with some bulbs not working or being busted. No biggie. Coin takers has always replaced those. Just a hassle waiting for replacements.

// Error: Image 90963 not found //

I would stay away from the kits. If they had all frosted kits then maybe I would do that, but I don't think they do. Supers cost more money than frosteds, and for me they are no better and in some cases worse. I usually don;t like LED GI for one, and I don;t think the flashers improve at all, and cost a hell of a lot more.

Until you get a that NGG specific info, general info for me are frosteds, color matching inserts except white for yellow inserts.
Buy some extra warm/cool white 44s, then you can do a small area of the PF and see if you like the look or not.

That's what I would be waiting for NGG users to chime in. Overall though, I've never seen much ghosting from inserts...that's usually an above PF thing for exposed bulbs...might be worth it to get Premium frosteds then...don't even know if NGG has any. i think the whole "premium" angle is overused.

I like Cointaker...pinball life is good but i think the CT frosteds do better spreading the light.

If you want to do the backglass...you can use either Pinball life minis because they have less light, or use CT Frosteds and just fill half the sockets.

Will be LEDing my NGG. Updating only the lighting in the inserts with the following frosted LEDs:

Frosted Warm Whites in the Clear, White, Yellow and Orange inserts.
Use a color matching frosted bulb in: Blue, Red, Green.

I sued the kit for the playfield , GI was already white frosteds. I'd go super inserts frosted GI.

I've seen a NGG with the super kit. It looks fantastic. It's very bright. Personally, I would ask them for the LED list, they reply very quickly. It you put the order together yourself you will save money over the kit. You would think it would be the other way around, but it isn't. I typically take the list and eliminate the backbox and flashers. And change the GI to frosted. The kit is a good starting point. There will be errors and there will probably be some stuff you dont like. You need to experiment. Everyone has a different taste.

more questioning do i really want the same bulb for every application on the machine?

I would stay away from the kits

Do your own LED conversion. Do not use CoinTakers Super bright under slings or some plastics. They sit so low to playfield that they will shine in your eyes. If a Bulb socket is in direct line of sight. Use a led the is frosted. Do you want Cool White or Warm White for G.I. I almost all ways use CoolWhite. But SM & TOTAN I used Warm White for G.I. Color Changers are cool. Slow fade & Fast changing. Pinball Life (3 LED ablaze 44/47) are great for Cool White G.I. Man It is fun to use your creative side and do your own color spectrums. You tube some LED Pinball machines to get some Ideas. Go easy on the super Bright LEDs for back box. They create glare on glass. I used CionTakers Mini's coolwhite & warm white For MB and SW Also some mini's used in Back box ST:TNG. Do flashers last they cost a lot and do not always pan out. But they can work. Just buy a few and test. Here is an example of MB Translight. Used CoinTaker Mini's 555 coolwhite. Pink Super brite to hightlight the pink art work. And a green Super Flex to reach castle window. Good Luck!!

100_0101.JPG

Mine was 50-70% done when I got it with Frosted CT's. I liked the look and followed up with the rest of the machine. Frosted throughout GI and color matched frosted to inserts and like the others said, frosted warm white's for yellows/oranges. I put in CT super flashers in the flashers. Game seems to work out perfect.

My CT kit for my T2 is great. Only thing I am going to change is the lack of color matching in the backbox. I will probably go red behind the red text, and add some blue in with the cool white and warm white for the face (they included warm white for the face)

I have warm frosted in my GI. The flasher kit in the blue ramps is real over powering so I would just use LED flashers under playfield. I am still tweaking the inserts but have used supers in them. It all depends on YOUR preference. My yellow may be different than your. Buy in bulk and play with it.