Quoted from HighVoltage:
When I first opened this thread, I saw the picture and thought this was an April Fool's, then when I read it
I thought of the Seinfeld episode as in you "yada, yada, yada'd" the best part with just a "got screwed up royally".
Not to make the OP feel bad or belabor the issue, but I was genuinely curious what went wrong, as I have been NVRAMing my machines also. I've only done the Whitestar drop-ins so far, and was considering the others that require de-soldering chips. I've just off-boarded the batteries for now, and may stick with that. But was this from trying to heat up all the pads with soldering iron and remove the chip or socket all at once? What is a better option? Am I remembering correctly that you can pull the plastic socket and leave the pins in the board to remove one by one? Some special technique to loose the socket from the pins? Or should the socket be clipped off / cut off and then do the pins one-by-one? What is the right tool to do this, would dremel-disc-cut the pins at the socket be a good technique? Other tool to do it properly? I'm talking about the case where you just have a soldering iron of course.
Random thoughts on desoldering.............
Hakko FR300 and the right technique can make the 6264 ram fall out of the PCB after desoldering.
1.0MM tip for through hole ICs
Hold the board vertical so you are using pointing the gun in the natural direction (horizontal)
When you touch the iron tip to the solder pad. Give it a moment for the solder to melt all the way through to the top side.
Do NOT rub the hot tip against the solder pad. That is how you lose pads. It is OK to move the through hole lead with the iron tip, but don't rub the hot iron tip against a pad very much or it will fall off.
If you didnt get a hole entirely clean, DO NOT pry the chip out. That is how you lose traces, through hole plating and pads on the top side. Instead use a pen iron to add more fresh solder and then clean the hole out over.
If you have trouble getting a pin to desolder. Add more fresh solder and try again. A halfway cleared out hole will not desolder properly until you fill it back in with fresh solder.
The 5v and ground pads will typically take more time. Leave the iron on those pins a little longer as there is more mass to heat up.
With the proper tool you do not cut out chips first. Cutting out chips and pulling leads one at a time is not ideal in my opinion. You heat the pad up an extra time. You still have to clear out holes. You risk damaging and shorting the component side of the PCB and it takes longer. If your having trouble getting IC's and components, you need to check you technique and your equipment.
Some boards are much more difficult to desolder than others. The WPC MPU is far more delicate than a system 3-7 board. If you pull traces and pads on WMS 3-6, you REALLY had to ham fist it. I sware i could probably pry out a factory soldered in chip with brute force and the pads wouldnt get damaged on a 3-6 board.
TEMPERATURE. Don't be scared of the heat. I work really hot compared to what i see people recommend. Because it is really hot, I work really fast. When desoldering you have to get all the solder to melt before pulling the trigger. That means sometimes heat has to travel through to the topside of the board with large heat sinking trace attached to it. I have my FR300 set hot enough that it can pull a 1.56" header attached to a ground plane on a WMS driver board after a few seconds. I use that same temp on small through hole components and I think my rework is hard to distinguish between factory solder once finished and cleaned.