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Wow what we're you using to desolder? Almost every trace looks destroyed. These traces and pads are very small on the wpc games and you must use at a minimum a desoldering gun with a built in vacuum pump.
plus have alot of previous experience. Hope someone can help you but it looks like the board is toast.

No, trashed.

Top picture shows over 40 traces wiped out. Button picture looks like road rash from a motorcycle accident.

Replace.

Certainly not beyond repair, but the time/money it's going to take to run new traces and verify versus the schematic will likely get close to the cost of a new one.

Wow, people are going to join quick on this one. Two beat me in seconds.

You did not do this did you? You have been around too long to all of the sudden decide to do something like this.

While theoretically possible, it would end up costing much more than a replacement board. That's even assuming anybody would be willing to take a crack at it, and has the ability to do a professional repair of that difficulty. Not something I would attempt myself.

I'd say replace the board. Way too much damage has been done. The cost of repair might exceed the cost of a new board.

The board is trashed otherwise, might as well get a proto pcb, put the sockets in, and then start wiring it to the nearest other trace.

Desoldering guns are awesome. I'd love one someday. So far I've gotten by using my soldering station (variable heat) and a manual pump style solder sucker and copper desoldering braid.

I'd avoid using the blowtorch in the future. Or whatever happened here.

Sorry, these kind of things suck. Best of luck getting your game back up and running.

Were you using some very old desoldering gun that had the heat way way to high?

Wow, that is amazing.

Yes, it could be fixed, but as others have said, the repair costs would exceed the value of the board.

Cheaper to pony up the $250 for the Rottendog replacement board

if you want to toss the board away, can i get dibs on it?

That board is shot. Not worth bothering to fix IMO.

yeah, can't tell what the grey is on top of the board.. just stuff to be cleaned or what.

I still want to hear the story on the board.. trying to use a plumbing torch or something??

I wouldn't fix it and I fix everything. That would take 4+ hours for me to fix. As other said, the labor involved makes it much easier to just buy a new board. Now, if it was a few traces or even as many as 10, I would probably fix it.

As it sits, keep it as a parts board. I have a sys11 board just like this that I marked as "parts only" and have used it to fix 10 other games.

Since this board is a lost cause, you could use it to practice on. My solder skills are not great and I go many months not using them, so before every repair I grab a dead board and practice a little just to refresh. (You can also purchase practice kits.)

Trust me, if Snyper thinks it's not worth it, it's not worth it. Haha

We all live and learn. You're not alone if it is any consolation.

G

I'm pretty sure a 40 watt soldering iron would be the max to use on these PCBs. That board looks like it was roasted with a 100 watt or bigger iron. It ain't in the tip, it's in the power rating of the iron, although a small chisel tip works best for ICs and discretes. Also, it would be best to use a temperature controlled ESD safe iron to work on them boards.

Well no matter what,your a good man for not coming up with some crazy story like your dog did it. Lick your wounds and move on to a new board.
Mike

At least now you can use the old board for practice.

Whoa, I read this reply too quickly as, "My crazy dog licked it and was wounded."

eh0my8x_(resized).jpg

I did not realize you can get a blank CPU board? Where from and how much?

You DIYers will always amaze me. This compared to 250 for a brand new complete board is a no brainer for me.

Fun Fact: You can send PCB's to china and they will scan and make you a 1 to 1 replacement. Costs about $150

At least you made an attempt! I just buy new rd's (2 and counting) as I wouldn't attempt soldering (de) of a board. So I give you---

Read Terry's guide. A desoldering iron is nice to have, but not necessary. I have desoldered alphanumeric displays, 40 pin chips, etc. with a soldering iron. The key is temperature control. It's a very delicate balance between melting solder, and not destroying through-hole plates and nearby traces. Too cold is just as dangerous as too hot. 40W and 100W soldering irons are garbage. Wattage (power) has nothing to do with temperature or the melting point of something. It's a gimmick. Get a temperature controlled soldering iron and dial that puppy to 650-675F and you will have no problem with pinball/arcade PCBs. The right tip and tinning it is equally important.

Again, a desoldering iron is a nice tool and a time saver when working in bulk, but a good temperature-controlled soldering iron and a $3 solder-sucker/soldapult works just as well.

Just a slight violation of copyright laws, though.

Not within reason...

You are never going to desolder all those parts, especially things like the chips, without damaging them. You going to have to source dozens of various parts that you are going to have to pre buy or wait to replace.

Parts are trimmed to the way they were installed... Your going to go insane trying to work with parts like that.

agreed with everyone else.. I could fix it but wouldnt bother.. its beyond economical repair. cheaper to replace it.

i get it that you learned the hard way and we all did once..

what i dont get is .. why didnt you stop when you saw the damage starting?

I keep wondering the same thing

Very difficult to enforce though. Even Mr. Personality can't throw his weight around to stop the far east stuff like that.

I know a old guy that will fix it and not break the bank. Pm me and I will buy it on the cheap if you want to sell.

I respect the way you man up and admit the fault too.
De-soldering chips like that is difficult vs. just replacing transistors and such.
If you plan on trying similar repairs in the future, I would do plenty of practice on that trashed board.
At least the practice can help ease the replacement costs.
It helps to add a bit of fresh solder first, then the mix of old and new solder will flow a bit better when you use the de-soldering gun.

This thread is testament to the advantages and merits of a high quality soldering and/or de-soldering gun.
And, practice on a throwaway board, like a modem board or the motherboard from an old PC.

You have to break eggs if you want to make an omelet. Didn't work before, so not really that big of a loss.... wait.

A desoldering iron is *very* useful.

I started out with a desoldering pump, but it didn't last very long.

It took be an hour to desolder a system 80 battery from an MPU, which alsi resulted in some board damage. With a desoldering iron, it took less than 10 minutes with no board damage.

You should not be doing any board work without a desoldering iron.

A desoldering iron also makes quick work of desoldering wires from parts on the playfield (switches solenoids, etc).

I've fixed worse.... Don't use it for soldering practice. Someone can/will fix it. It just takes a lot of time (and skill) to repair something like that. If you want something to practice on I've got a pile of worthless scrap PCBs. Even if you have good equipment, you are going to have to learn how to use it. I've seen some pretty horrific work done by people that just bought a new $300 desoldering rig.