(Topic ID: 300695)

Anyone on here make reproduction plastics?

By broncoking

38 days ago


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  • 52 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 days ago by bigguybbr
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There are 52 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 38 days ago

I recently picked up a Gottlieb Arena and it's missing the plastic on the top left of the pit. Couldn't find one online. Wondering if anyone on here made plastics. If anyone would be interested in making me another one just let me know, I'd be more than glad to pay whatever you think is reasonable plus shipping. Thanks

Screenshot_20210918-152617_Chrome (resized).jpg
#2 37 days ago
Quoted from broncoking:

I recently picked up a Gottlieb Arena and it's missing the plastic on the top left of the pit. Couldn't find one online. Wondering if anyone on here made plastics. If anyone would be interested in making me another one just let me know, I'd be more than glad to pay whatever you think is reasonable plus shipping. Thanks
[quoted image]

A good start would be finding someone that has that game and would be willing to scan that plastic. If you get a good scan it opens up a lot of opportunity for help.

#3 37 days ago

I'd really like to know this as well.

I have a Solar Fire that is missing one plastic. I got someone to scan their plastic for me, but I'm not sure where to go to get one reproduced (printed and cut). I'd love to see what you find out here.

#4 37 days ago

I will second what mrm said.

I would suggest putting out a wanted ad on here first, then contacting some people in the database directly that own one, then posting in the following thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/trade-your-plastics

#5 37 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

A good start would be finding someone that has that game and would be willing to scan that plastic. If you get a good scan it opens up a lot of opportunity for help.

I gotcha, that would be a good place to start, I'll get with some other Arena owners and see if someone could scan it for me.

#6 36 days ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

I'd really like to know this as well.
I have a Solar Fire that is missing one plastic. I got someone to scan their plastic for me, but I'm not sure where to go to get one reproduced (printed and cut). I'd love to see what you find out here.

I watched a video of a guy that was making them himself, seemed like something you definitely have to know what you're doing to make them look right

#7 36 days ago
Quoted from broncoking:

I watched a video of a guy that was making them himself, seemed like something you definitely have to know what you're doing to make them look right

Oh, I'm fully confident this isn't something I could do myself. I was hoping to find somewhere I could get the scan I have turned into a replacement plastic.

#8 36 days ago

Can be as simple as scanning, cleaning up the artwork (with photoshop or something equivalent), saving just the lines denoting the outline of the piece and holes to create a vector file (which can be used for laser cutting the plastic piece), and then printing a decal or equivalent from the cleaned up scan of the artwork (e.g., at FedEx/Kinkos or somewhere equivalent). Various resources and instructions for doing so are mentioned in the topic below.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-guide-to-making-your-own-reproduction-plastics

#9 33 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

A good start would be finding someone that has that game and would be willing to scan that plastic. If you get a good scan it opens up a lot of opportunity for help.

So I managed to get a scan of the plastic from another pinsider. Do you know anyone that could actually make the plastic? Or at least the decals? I can make the polycarbonate piece but I have no experience what so ever using adobe illustrator to make the art look right for the decal.

#10 33 days ago
Quoted from broncoking:

So I managed to get a scan of the plastic from another pinsider. Do you know anyone that could actually make the plastic? Or at least the decals? I can make the polycarbonate piece but I have no experience what so ever using adobe illustrator to make the art look right for the decal.

Post the scan (or a reduced file version if it's too big). How detailed is the art?

#11 33 days ago

So does anyone do this as a service if you already have the scan? I'm missing one small triangular plastic on Solar Fire that seems like it would be easy for someone who knows what they're doing (which isn't me). I got the scan from another Pinsider, I just don't know what to do with it from here. Sounds like OP is in the exact same position. Package deal for someone who wants to make a plastic for each of us? LOL

#12 33 days ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Post the scan (or a reduced file version if it's too big). How detailed is the art?

It's not very detailed

Pit Left (resized).png
#13 33 days ago
Quoted from broncoking:

It's not very detailed[quoted image]

That shouldn't be too bad. I'll take a shot at it for you.

#14 33 days ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

That shouldn't be too bad. I'll take a shot at it for you.

Thanks I really appreciate it. Another question. What's the best way to make the template to cut out the polycarbonate since I don't actually have the plastic that came off of it?

#15 33 days ago
Quoted from broncoking:

Thanks I really appreciate it. Another question. What's the best way to make the template to cut out the polycarbonate since I don't actually have the plastic that came off of it?

If the scan is actual size, turn that to vector and cut from that. I can't tell what size the original plastic was since the jpg is 72dpi and that makes the image like 15 inches, which I'm sure it is not.

#16 33 days ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

If the scan is actual size, turn that to vector and cut from that. I can't tell what size the original plastic was since the jpg is 72dpi and that makes the image like 15 inches, which I'm sure it is not.

No it's about the size of a tortilla chip

#17 33 days ago
Quoted from broncoking:

No it's about the size of a tortilla chip

Is the scan you have at scale (actual size)? When pinside posts, it converts the images, so that's probably why I'm seeing 72dpi here.

Check the image properties and see what it says the DPI of the scan is.

#18 33 days ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Is the scan you have at scale (actual size)? When pinside posts, it converts the images, so that's probably why I'm seeing 72dpi here.
Check the image properties and see what it says the DPI of the scan is.

The DPI of the scanned image came out to be about 328, want me to send you the original image file?

#19 33 days ago
Quoted from broncoking:

The DPI of the scanned image came out to be about 328, want me to send you the original image file?

According to photoshop it's 299.99, so essentially 300DPI. It also now gives me what I think is a somewhat realistic size of 57.66mm x 97.03mm.

#20 33 days ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

According to photoshop it's 299.99, so essentially 300DPI. It also now gives me what I think is a somewhat realistic size of 57.66mm x 97.03mm.

Gotcha, I just used a dpi calculator since it wasn't in the image settings.

#21 33 days ago
Quoted from broncoking:

Gotcha, I just used a dpi calculator since it wasn't in the image settings.

It's quick and dirty, but at the size you're printing this it should look fine. Saved it as a PDF so you'll have the transparency and resolution.

Pit Left-300dpi.pdf
#22 33 days ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

It's quick and dirty, but at the size you're printing this it should look fine. Saved it as a PDF so you'll have the transparency and resolution.[quoted image]

Thank you so much. That'll look great. I really appreciate it. Would you let me pay you for doing this? I would have paid someone else to make it.

#23 32 days ago
Quoted from broncoking:

Thank you so much. That'll look great. I really appreciate it. Would you let me pay you for doing this? I would have paid someone else to make it.

Nah, don't worry about it. If I was taking money for it, I would want it to be a whole lot better. As it is, it's just good enough.

#24 32 days ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Nah, don't worry about it. If I was taking money for it, I would want it to be a whole lot better. As it is, it's just good enough.

Thanks again, I'll send you a pic after I get it made and put it the game.

#25 32 days ago

Vistaprint custom window decals offer ‘inside glass’ adhesive which makes it easy to adhere.

#26 32 days ago
Quoted from broncoking:

Thanks again, I'll send you a pic after I get it made and put it the game.

How are you going about getting the plastic piece cut?

#27 32 days ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

How are you going about getting the plastic piece cut?

Haven't figured that out yet, going to Lowe's tomorrow to get a piece of polycarbonate. I don't have a scroll saw. Might try a jig saw or see if a 1/8 drill bit on my drill press will cut it.

#28 32 days ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

Vistaprint custom window decals offer ‘inside glass’ adhesive which makes it easy to adhere.

Might have to look into that, but it shouldn't be to hard to print it on decal paper and apply it to the plastic

#29 32 days ago
Quoted from broncoking:

Haven't figured that out yet, going to Lowe's tomorrow to get a piece of polycarbonate. I don't have a scroll saw. Might try a jig saw or see if a 1/8 drill bit on my drill press will cut it.

If you get PETG, you can sand and heat smooth the edges so they aren't rough from the saw. Polycarbonate doesn't do well with heat. For that area of the pin, PETG should be more than strong enough.

Quoted from broncoking:

Might have to look into that, but it shouldn't be to hard to print it on decal paper and apply it to the plastic

Paper will kill too much of the light and also will discolor over time from the lamp heat if there's a bulb or bulbs underneath. I'd use clear plastic. A window cling might be ideal.

#30 32 days ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

If you get PETG, you can sand and heat smooth the edges so they aren't rough from the saw. Polycarbonate doesn't do well with heat. For that area of the pin, PETG should be more than strong enough.

Paper will kill too much of the light and also will discolor over time from the lamp heat if there's a bulb or bulbs underneath. I'd use clear plastic. A window cling might be ideal.

Oh, I watched a video of a guy that made them by cutting out the polycarbonate in the shape of the plastic, then printing the art onto clear decal paper, sealing the paper then wet applying them to the polycarbonate. Is there a better way to make it?

#31 32 days ago
Quoted from broncoking:

Might have to look into that, but it shouldn't be to hard to print it on decal paper and apply it to the plastic

Quoted from broncoking:

Oh, I watched a video of a guy that made them by cutting out the polycarbonate in the shape of the plastic, then printing the art onto clear decal paper, sealing the paper then wet applying them to the polycarbonate. Is there a better way to make it?

Dunno. Haven't seen that video. If the paper's clear is it actually paper? I'm pretty sure it's a plastic film like a window cling. If that's the way you're going, get the kind with the white backing on the film to more accurately match how the plastics are screened.

As for cutting, again, haven't seen that video, but cutting poly with a saw can give it rough edges that you can't do much about except maybe sand smooth. PETG won't be as much of a rough edge and you can flame polish the edges to smooth them out.

#32 32 days ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Dunno. Haven't seen that video. If the paper's clear is it actually paper? I'm pretty sure it's a plastic film like a window cling. If that's the way you're going, get the kind with the white backing on the film to more accurately match how the plastics are screened.
As for cutting, again, haven't seen that video, but cutting poly with a saw can give it rough edges that you can't do much about except maybe sand smooth. PETG won't be as much of a rough edge and you can flame polish the edges to smooth them out.

Watch "Make Your Own Reproduction Pinball Plastics" on YouTube

Here's the video. It was part of another thread on pinside a while back.

#33 32 days ago
Quoted from broncoking:

Watch "Make Your Own Reproduction Pinball Plastics" on YouTube
Here's the video. It was part of another thread on pinside a while back.

If you have a scroll saw with a blade like his, you should be golden. Looks like it makes pretty clean edges.

#34 31 days ago

I have used a copping saw, utility knife and a dremel.
I use the utility knife to rough the shape.
I use the coppling saw with a new blade with the most TPI i can get to shape it further.
I use vaious grinding tips on the dremel to fine tune the shape.
Finally, i file, sand and polish the edges.
Sounds like an all day event but i am usually done in an hour.

Be very careful when drilling holes for posts. If the drill binds and pulls the bit thru you will crack the plastic.

#35 31 days ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

How are you going about getting the plastic piece cut?

I've had plastics made by cutting the .060 (or 1/16") lexan with a vinyl siding snippers, then
rounding the corners with a file. Once cut, my Vinyl Graphic Designer digitizes the art, prints it
in reverse on clear vinyl, applies it to the backside, then a layer of white vinyl, and all set.
I'm presently having a set made for one of the machines..
I'd maybe look for a fairly local Vinyl Graphic Designer. If they're experienced, even backglasses come
out very decent..

IMG_0570 (resized).JPGIMG_0665 (resized).JPG

#36 31 days ago

Not that it matters when you want something but how much is the graphic artist charge for the plastics?
I would guess pricing would vary wildly from region to reqion and even by GA to GA.

#37 31 days ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

but how much is the graphic artist charge for the plastics?

The last plastics I had done were the 2 for Fun House's (1956) sling shots and it was $25.00
It takes a while to digitize the art, so I'm fine with that price.
It's not what he mainly does for work, so it may take a little while, but he squeezes it in
for me..

#38 31 days ago

That price seems fantastic to me.
I suspect it would be more in the Boston area but as i said when i asked, the price doesnt really matter when it is something that you want to complete a game.
I may look into this the next time around.
Thanks.

#39 31 days ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

That price seems fantastic to me.

Yes, that is a good price and I'm sure others will be higher.
I knew him for many years, and he's very good at what he
does. In the mid 90s I picked up many ball bowlers, and he
saved me making the glasses for them..

1 week later
#40 24 days ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

It's quick and dirty, but at the size you're printing this it should look fine. Saved it as a PDF so you'll have the transparency and resolution.[quoted image]

How do I get it to print out the size plastic is supposed to be? When I try printing it it prints the image almost the entire size of the page

#41 24 days ago
Quoted from broncoking:

How do I get it to print out the size plastic is supposed to be? When I try printing it it prints the image almost the entire size of the page

Your printer settings might be at stretch to print or fit to page, or the dpi may be set wrong (72dpi setting on a 300dpi image will make the image print LARGE). Check the pdf and printer settings.

#42 24 days ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Your printer settings might be at stretch to print or fit to page, or the dpi may be set wrong (72dpi setting on a 300dpi image will make the image print LARGE). Check the pdf and printer settings.

gotcha, i'm not very good with computers, i'll mess around with the settings, thanks

#43 24 days ago
Quoted from broncoking:

gotcha, i'm not very good with computers, i'll mess around with the settings, thanks

If you're using adobe acrobat to open the PDF, on the print menu, there's an "actual size" choice. Check that. You can see on the preview to the right of the one I did that the plastic is then the right size relative to the 8.5"x11" page representation on the right.

acrobat menu (resized).jpg
#44 24 days ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

If you're using adobe acrobat to open the PDF, on the print menu, there's an "actual size" choice. Check that. You can see on the preview to the right of the one I did that the plastic is then the right size relative to the 8.5"x11" page representation on the right.[quoted image]

I'll install it, I don't have it on my laptop

#45 24 days ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

If you're using adobe acrobat to open the PDF, on the print menu, there's an "actual size" choice. Check that. You can see on the preview to the right of the one I did that the plastic is then the right size relative to the 8.5"x11" page representation on the right.[quoted image]

I forgot that the image defaulted to 72dpi when shared on pinside. I'll have to change it back to 300.

#46 24 days ago
Quoted from broncoking:

I forgot that the image defaulted to 72dpi when shared on pinside. I'll have to change it back to 300.

It shouldn't have changed the size if you clicked on the PDF. When you click it, it should load the PDF viewer and from within that viewer you can save it. I just did it to verify and it didn't change the DPI.

#47 24 days ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

It shouldn't have changed the size if you clicked on the PDF. When you click it, it should load the PDF viewer and from within that viewer you can save it. I just did it to verify and it didn't change the DPI.

you are right, i was right clicking and saving the image instead of clicking on it to open it

2 weeks later
#48 10 days ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

It shouldn't have changed the size if you clicked on the PDF. When you click it, it should load the PDF viewer and from within that viewer you can save it. I just did it to verify and it didn't change the DPI.

Just to let you know, the plastic didn't turn out so great. Apparently there is a lot more to this process than I thought. Everything was going fine until I put the decal paper into the warm water, as soon as I did the ink started cracking, then trying to get the decal to slide off the paper and onto the plastic was a nightmare, the decal was so thin it kept tearing. Gonna do more research and see if I can find a better process.

#49 10 days ago
Quoted from broncoking:

Just to let you know, the plastic didn't turn out so great. Apparently there is a lot more to this process than I thought. Everything was going fine until I put the decal paper into the warm water, as soon as I did the ink started cracking, then trying to get the decal to slide off the paper and onto the plastic was a nightmare, the decal was so thin it kept tearing. Gonna do more research and see if I can find a better process.

Thanks for the followup. I haven't done the print and transfer part of it. I'm assuming maybe the transparency didn't accept the ink well enough not to lose it when it got wet. Dunno. Definitely post when you get it figured out. Alternately, you can send the art out to one of those window cling makers and they can make a cling for you. Costs more, but it should work easier.

#50 10 days ago

There is a bit of a trick to getting water slide decals to transfer properly. When you put it in water, only leave it long enough for it to just start to free from the backing. It’s more trouble if it has pulled away and is floating on its own. Pull the decal and the backing (hopefully still somewhat attached but able to slide) together from the water and lay it on the transfer surface and position it where you want. Put one finger on the edge of the decal, and slide the backing out from underneath from the opposite side. This will stop it from tearing on you, and should help save your ink from getting scratched away. Finally, gently work out any of the water trapped under the decal and let it dry.

There are 52 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.

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