A good start would be finding someone that has that game and would be willing to scan that plastic. If you get a good scan it opens up a lot of opportunity for help.

I'd really like to know this as well.

I have a Solar Fire that is missing one plastic. I got someone to scan their plastic for me, but I'm not sure where to go to get one reproduced (printed and cut). I'd love to see what you find out here.

I will second what mrm said.

I would suggest putting out a wanted ad on here first, then contacting some people in the database directly that own one, then posting in the following thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/trade-your-plastics

Oh, I'm fully confident this isn't something I could do myself. I was hoping to find somewhere I could get the scan I have turned into a replacement plastic.

Can be as simple as scanning, cleaning up the artwork (with photoshop or something equivalent), saving just the lines denoting the outline of the piece and holes to create a vector file (which can be used for laser cutting the plastic piece), and then printing a decal or equivalent from the cleaned up scan of the artwork (e.g., at FedEx/Kinkos or somewhere equivalent). Various resources and instructions for doing so are mentioned in the topic below.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-guide-to-making-your-own-reproduction-plastics

Post the scan (or a reduced file version if it's too big). How detailed is the art?

So does anyone do this as a service if you already have the scan? I'm missing one small triangular plastic on Solar Fire that seems like it would be easy for someone who knows what they're doing (which isn't me). I got the scan from another Pinsider, I just don't know what to do with it from here. Sounds like OP is in the exact same position. Package deal for someone who wants to make a plastic for each of us? LOL

That shouldn't be too bad. I'll take a shot at it for you.

If the scan is actual size, turn that to vector and cut from that. I can't tell what size the original plastic was since the jpg is 72dpi and that makes the image like 15 inches, which I'm sure it is not.

Is the scan you have at scale (actual size)? When pinside posts, it converts the images, so that's probably why I'm seeing 72dpi here.

Check the image properties and see what it says the DPI of the scan is.

According to photoshop it's 299.99, so essentially 300DPI. It also now gives me what I think is a somewhat realistic size of 57.66mm x 97.03mm.

It's quick and dirty, but at the size you're printing this it should look fine. Saved it as a PDF so you'll have the transparency and resolution.

Pit Left-300dpi.pdf

Nah, don't worry about it. If I was taking money for it, I would want it to be a whole lot better. As it is, it's just good enough.

Vistaprint custom window decals offer ‘inside glass’ adhesive which makes it easy to adhere.

How are you going about getting the plastic piece cut?

If you get PETG, you can sand and heat smooth the edges so they aren't rough from the saw. Polycarbonate doesn't do well with heat. For that area of the pin, PETG should be more than strong enough.

Paper will kill too much of the light and also will discolor over time from the lamp heat if there's a bulb or bulbs underneath. I'd use clear plastic. A window cling might be ideal.

Dunno. Haven't seen that video. If the paper's clear is it actually paper? I'm pretty sure it's a plastic film like a window cling. If that's the way you're going, get the kind with the white backing on the film to more accurately match how the plastics are screened.

As for cutting, again, haven't seen that video, but cutting poly with a saw can give it rough edges that you can't do much about except maybe sand smooth. PETG won't be as much of a rough edge and you can flame polish the edges to smooth them out.

If you have a scroll saw with a blade like his, you should be golden. Looks like it makes pretty clean edges.

I have used a copping saw, utility knife and a dremel.
I use the utility knife to rough the shape.
I use the coppling saw with a new blade with the most TPI i can get to shape it further.
I use vaious grinding tips on the dremel to fine tune the shape.
Finally, i file, sand and polish the edges.
Sounds like an all day event but i am usually done in an hour.

Be very careful when drilling holes for posts. If the drill binds and pulls the bit thru you will crack the plastic.

I've had plastics made by cutting the .060 (or 1/16") lexan with a vinyl siding snippers, then
rounding the corners with a file. Once cut, my Vinyl Graphic Designer digitizes the art, prints it
in reverse on clear vinyl, applies it to the backside, then a layer of white vinyl, and all set.
I'm presently having a set made for one of the machines..
I'd maybe look for a fairly local Vinyl Graphic Designer. If they're experienced, even backglasses come
out very decent..

IMG_0570 (resized).JPGIMG_0665 (resized).JPG

Not that it matters when you want something but how much is the graphic artist charge for the plastics?
I would guess pricing would vary wildly from region to reqion and even by GA to GA.

The last plastics I had done were the 2 for Fun House's (1956) sling shots and it was $25.00
It takes a while to digitize the art, so I'm fine with that price.
It's not what he mainly does for work, so it may take a little while, but he squeezes it in
for me..

That price seems fantastic to me.
I suspect it would be more in the Boston area but as i said when i asked, the price doesnt really matter when it is something that you want to complete a game.
I may look into this the next time around.
Thanks.

Yes, that is a good price and I'm sure others will be higher.
I knew him for many years, and he's very good at what he
does. In the mid 90s I picked up many ball bowlers, and he
saved me making the glasses for them..

Your printer settings might be at stretch to print or fit to page, or the dpi may be set wrong (72dpi setting on a 300dpi image will make the image print LARGE). Check the pdf and printer settings.

If you're using adobe acrobat to open the PDF, on the print menu, there's an "actual size" choice. Check that. You can see on the preview to the right of the one I did that the plastic is then the right size relative to the 8.5"x11" page representation on the right.

acrobat menu (resized).jpg

It shouldn't have changed the size if you clicked on the PDF. When you click it, it should load the PDF viewer and from within that viewer you can save it. I just did it to verify and it didn't change the DPI.

Thanks for the followup. I haven't done the print and transfer part of it. I'm assuming maybe the transparency didn't accept the ink well enough not to lose it when it got wet. Dunno. Definitely post when you get it figured out. Alternately, you can send the art out to one of those window cling makers and they can make a cling for you. Costs more, but it should work easier.

There is a bit of a trick to getting water slide decals to transfer properly. When you put it in water, only leave it long enough for it to just start to free from the backing. It’s more trouble if it has pulled away and is floating on its own. Pull the decal and the backing (hopefully still somewhat attached but able to slide) together from the water and lay it on the transfer surface and position it where you want. Put one finger on the edge of the decal, and slide the backing out from underneath from the opposite side. This will stop it from tearing on you, and should help save your ink from getting scratched away. Finally, gently work out any of the water trapped under the decal and let it dry.