(Topic ID: 304843)

Anyone ever use this stuff to level off sunken inserts?

By Sea_Wolf

2 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 22 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by gdonovan
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

No games have been linked to this topic.

    Topic Gallery

    View topic image gallery

    Resized_1638101472726280941363019319180_32966399647877 (resized).jpeg
    6b6a7ed0afcc32a7183a8a4fb8c50e648d991f1e (resized).jpg
    a464eaefb4bf6e9241bf3c427e3e7a68236c0abc (resized).jpg
    20210906_133912 (resized).jpg
    20210821_163551 (resized).jpg
    8EF21D22-C088-40E0-A716-C806422587F2 (resized).jpeg
    #1 2 years ago

    I’ve got a few machines that need the inserts leveled and wondered if this stuff would be durable enough. The price is definitely right, $14 per quart on Amazon.

    I may give it a shot if no one has had bad results with it.

    8EF21D22-C088-40E0-A716-C806422587F2 (resized).jpeg8EF21D22-C088-40E0-A716-C806422587F2 (resized).jpeg
    #2 2 years ago

    Should work well and Lacquer usually dries very fast. Keep us posted...........

    #3 2 years ago

    There's a good video on raising inserts. Worked well for me and wasn’t difficult. I can’t find the same video I’d seen, but basically the method is to soften the old glue from the bottom with a heat gun on low temp, knocking the insert out with a nut driver the size of the insert, cleaning the edges & gluing it back down. A heat gun is only $30 at harbor freight.

    Seek ye a video!

    #4 2 years ago

    As a train collector as well as a pinball person I use a product called "fake water" which I get at my local train supply place.

    #5 2 years ago

    I've used lacquer before. It works alright, but it's pretty thin. Might need several coats if they are sunk a lot. If you put it on too thick, it will take a long time to dry. I had better results with that one part ultraviolet epoxy stuff. It never dries while you work with it, then hardens in a couple of minutes under a black light.

    That said, I don't bother with them any more. If the inserts are sunk. I just make a playfield protector for it. Two birds with one stone.

    #6 2 years ago

    Thanks for all the input. I’m going to try it on one machine and let you know how it goes.

    As far as using the heat gun method, there’s a thread on here somewhere describing that and I may go that route but I’m going to be lazy first.

    #7 2 years ago
    Quoted from edednedy:

    I had better results with that one part ultraviolet epoxy stuff. It never dries while you work with it, then hardens in a couple of minutes under a black light.

    Do you have a link to this product?

    Does it dry totally clear?

    #8 2 years ago
    Quoted from RTS:

    Do you have a link to this product?
    Does it dry totally clear?

    Yes. It dries crystal clear under black light or sunlight. You can find it on Amazon or Ebay. It's called UV Resin.
    Here's one:

    https://www.amazon.com/Resin-Crystal-Clear-Hard-Type/dp/B0991PB6BJ/ref=sr_1_17

    #9 2 years ago

    Pinballhelp.com and search leveling inserts. Several very good videos.

    #10 2 years ago
    Quoted from undrdog:

    There's a good video on raising inserts. Worked well for me and wasn’t difficult. I can’t find the same video I’d seen, but basically the method is to soften the old glue from the bottom with a heat gun on low temp, knocking the insert out with a nut driver the size of the insert, cleaning the edges & gluing it back down. A heat gun is only $30 at harbor freight.
    Seek ye a video!

    This may work for inserts which are sunken and otherwise flat, but often the inserts are cupped (concave) in the center, and on older woodrails, even shrunken.
    It those cases, some type of filler needs to be used. I've often thought about using "Cover Your Glass", but I don't think it's available anymore. The model railroad stuff (fake water) sounds promising.

    #11 2 years ago

    I might be wrong, but wouldn't yellowing be a concern with this product?

    I was always under the impression that 2PAC was the only way to go or others have had some success with this if you don't want to spray:

    https://www.amazon.com/KBS-Coatings-8404-DiamondFinish-Clear/dp/B00DMIDEMS/ref=asc_df_B00DMIDEMS/

    #12 2 years ago
    Quoted from ruralcollector:

    I might be wrong, but wouldn't yellowing be a concern with this product?
    I was always under the impression that 2PAC was the only way to go or others have had some success with this if you don't want to spray:
    amazon.com link »

    That’s the question as most petroleum based clearcoats yellow or amber up after time and the difference in price between the one you posted, $55 a quart to $14.

    I did read where some users reported no significant yellowing with the Watco but I’m skeptical. I’ll definitely let everyone know if it does. Ordered the cheap can today.

    #13 2 years ago

    On concave round inserts, aren’t new ones generally available?

    #14 2 years ago
    Quoted from undrdog:

    On concave round inserts, aren’t new ones generally available?

    I had a Buccaneer that the inserts were cupped bad and loose. I figured I'd buy all new ones and just replace them all. Unless you restore the whole playfield to a bright shiny new playfield, especially the white ones, the new inserts don't look right.

    I've leveled 3 games worth of inserts. 2 successful, 1 not so much. The bad one I think was related to a previous attempt at a repaint. Other 2 games they practically fell out. I followed the pinball help link above. Once out, using a heat gun with the insert facing up, heat the top of the insert. Look closely at the plastic and you can see a change in its sheen. At that point, flip it over on a smooth surface and press down on the insert with something flat that fits inside the plastic. I usually use wooden dowels. I use a ceramic tile to heat on and a piece of glass to press against.

    #15 2 years ago

    BubbaK thanks! Great tips.

    #16 2 years ago

    There is a difference between unlevel/sunken inserts... and sagging/cupped inserts.
    Always level inserts with heat gun and re-glue or you'll have problems again in the future. The insert needs to be "secure" in its forever home or it will eventually work it's way out.
    Cupped inserts either need to be "melted" back in shape as BubbaK suggested; and/or use some kind of filler to level the shallow areas.

    #17 2 years ago

    I tried one insert using automotive clear coat to try to fill in, sand, fill in, sand and it took way too much effort. First time with the heat gun was a bit scary, but you get a feel for it pretty quick. It works and its quick as long as the inserts come out. The first few take a few times to heat and press, but once you get the time to heat down, its not bad.

    #18 2 years ago

    I used this stuff, not bad.

    20210821_163551 (resized).jpg20210821_163551 (resized).jpg20210906_133912 (resized).jpg20210906_133912 (resized).jpg6b6a7ed0afcc32a7183a8a4fb8c50e648d991f1e (resized).jpg6b6a7ed0afcc32a7183a8a4fb8c50e648d991f1e (resized).jpga464eaefb4bf6e9241bf3c427e3e7a68236c0abc (resized).jpga464eaefb4bf6e9241bf3c427e3e7a68236c0abc (resized).jpg
    #19 2 years ago
    Quoted from gdonovan:

    I used this stuff, not bad.
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    The last picture looks great. Did you spray it on?

    #20 2 years ago
    Quoted from RGarriott:

    The last picture looks great. Did you spray it on?

    Used it for filling inserts, though people have done playfields with it. Seawitch was finished with 2 part auto clear Spraymax 2K.

    So far the results are good. The Diamond clear does take a few days to properly harden though and you have to be careful about humid conditions which can make it bubble if going in heavy. Almost all the inserts on Seawitch were filled this way.

    Resized_1638101472726280941363019319180_32966399647877 (resized).jpegResized_1638101472726280941363019319180_32966399647877 (resized).jpeg
    #21 2 years ago
    Quoted from gdonovan:

    Used it for filling inserts, though people have done playfields with it. Seawitch was finished with 2 part auto clear Spraymax 2K.
    So far the results are good. The Diamond clear does take a few days to properly harden though and you have to be careful about humid conditions which can make it bubble if going in heavy. Almost all the inserts on Seawitch were filled this way.[quoted image]

    Ok cool. I have had some really good results with the spraymax.

    So you filled the inserts, then what put the first coat of 2k down then sand to flatten everything? and then go for your finishing coats.

    #22 2 years ago
    Quoted from RGarriott:

    Ok cool. I have had some really good results with the spraymax.
    So you filled the inserts, then what put the first coat of 2k down then sand to flatten everything? and then go for your finishing coats.

    Have about three cans of Spraymax on Seawitch. First was after cleaning and doing some art work, then I did insert filling and water slides, then second coat. Sanded flat as possible and then hit with last coat.

    With the Diamond coat I actually used a single edge razor blade to 'blade" the inserts flat before finishing with 600-800 grit. Does a great job taking the high spots off in a hurry without impacting the surrounding area much.

    Reply

    Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

    Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

    Donate to Pinside

    Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


    This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/anyone-ever-use-this-stuff-to-level-off-sunken-inserts and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

    Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.