(Topic ID: 138772)

Any tips to get LED bulbs to "stay in"


By grifter

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 34 posts
  • 23 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by frunch
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    20150914_193017.jpg

    #1 4 years ago

    I placed some LED bulbs behind the lightning bolts of my AC/DC, and the one on the Rock n Roll train ramp keeps falling out.

    Wondering if there's anything I can do to keep it in there!

    #2 4 years ago

    I assume these are 555's or spade type bulbs. Fold out the two "wires" until the are pointing straight out of the bottom. Now wrap the plastic tip or "spade" with one or two wraps of tape. Now fold back the "wires" and insert back into the socket. The added thickness should keep em in place.

    #4 4 years ago

    buy American?

    #5 4 years ago

    Hot glue!

    #6 4 years ago
    Quoted from Spitfiren8:

    I assume these are 555's or spade type bulbs. Fold out the two "wires" until the are pointing straight out of the bottom. Now wrap the plastic tip or "spade" with one or two wraps of tape. Now fold back the "wires" and insert back into the socket. The added thickness should keep em in place.

    That's what I do
    Electrical tape

    #7 4 years ago

    I use heat shrink around the lamp holder and the led. They never pop out and it leaves a nice clean look.

    #8 4 years ago

    Wow Rock, great tip. You learn some thing new every day.

    #9 4 years ago
    Quoted from Zitt:

    Stern seems to use Hot Glue.

    Since I find dead LEDs on occasion, electrical tape sounds like a better idea to me.

    #10 4 years ago
    Quoted from Baiter:

    Since I find dead LEDs on occasion, electrical tape sounds like a better idea to me.

    Hot Glue is pretty easy to pull out if you need to.

    #11 4 years ago
    Quoted from Baiter:

    Since I find dead LEDs on occasion, electrical tape sounds like a better idea to me.

    Yep that works, so does hot glue both good ways to do it. I started using heat shrink after i pulled a prong out of the lamp holder using electric tape. I know that was probably rare but it happened and me without a rivet press. I tried hot glue once it worked but i really like the finish look of the heat shrink so i roll with that. It does cut off easy with just a little slice from a razor knife.

    So take that for what it is and do what works best for you.

    #12 4 years ago

    I'm not saying that Hot glue is "cool"; just that it's one way of doing it.
    Heat shrink sounds better. But alas; I have a preferred method yet.

    #13 4 years ago

    20150914_193017.jpg I wrapped a thin copper wire (one strand from some speaker wire) and soldered it. Worked great.

    #14 4 years ago

    I use plumbers Teflon tape.

    #15 4 years ago

    Dont forget with the power off, and tweezers/small needle nose, you can tighten and close up the contacts in the socket too.

    #16 4 years ago

    All valid methods. My favourite has become the clear heat shrink though..

    image.jpg

    image_1.jpg

    #17 4 years ago

    On my STNG's back lane lamps; I soldered my LED into the twist base... still have connectivity problems due to bad solder divots I think.

    #18 4 years ago

    What heatshrink tubing,??

    #19 4 years ago
    Quoted from CNKay:

    What heatshrink tubing,??

    16.0/8.0
    I like the clear for two reasons. Firstly things still look stock and it means you can do a selection of problem bulbs and they don't stand out. And secondly, I find the clear feels more "grippy" than coloured, so I have a feeling it is holding the bulb better. I have not tested this though, it is just a subjective feeling.

    Edit-- ahhh, I see what you did there. Sorry for the literal take at first read.

    #20 4 years ago
    Quoted from TimeBandit:

    16.0/8.0
    I like the clear for two reasons. Firstly things still look stock and it means you can do a selection of problem bulbs and they don't stand out. And secondly, I find the clear feels more "grippy" than coloured, so I have a feeling it is holding the bulb better. I have not tested this though, it is just a subjective feeling.
    Edit-- ahhh, I see what you did there. Sorry for the literal take at first read.

    ? What is the diameter?

    #21 4 years ago

    I used heatshrink. But not to connect the bulb to the base. I used it like the poster who said to pull out the prongs and use electrical tape. And it was able to fit snugly, I didn't have to heat it up.

    #23 4 years ago

    Dang it. I'm going to have to try that clear heat shrink. That looks good and will hold even better than my current process. Right now, I'm using that blue sticky stuff that teachers put on the walls. Been working pretty good but I still get the random bulb out sometimes. just ordered some of that heat shrink.

    #24 4 years ago

    i have used hot glue and it fails. used on bulbs over the ramps on TFtC. i have used plumbers teflon tape. move the bulbs legs down. but teflon tape to be a little shorter than what comes off the roll. wrap it once around the bulb. fold legs back up and done.

    #25 4 years ago

    Take a set of pliers and crimp the plastic base of the bulb, this will cost you zero!

    Hot glue and heat shrink both work also

    #26 4 years ago

    So, the tubing has a rectangular cross section rather than circular?

    #27 4 years ago

    I'm sure its round (at least the stuff I found was). Heat shrink will mold to what ever you are shrink it to.

    #28 4 years ago

    Im lazy so I use a little dab of household Goop. Goop holds good but is forgiving so with pressure it can be undone. I have only had to do this on troublesome spot lights.

    #29 4 years ago

    I use a small dab of Permatex clear rtv silicone, it works great. It also doesn't pull the chrome off of spot lights when removed like hot glue does.

    #30 4 years ago

    So, is this the correct size for the clear heat shrink?

    amazon.com link »

    #31 4 years ago

    I just bought 5/8 inch. 16mm is a tad bigger than 5/8ths.

    5/8 inch = 0.625 (inches) * 25.4 (mm to an inch) = 15.875 mm

    #32 4 years ago
    Quoted from alveolus:

    So, the tubing has a rectangular cross section rather than circular?

    Heat shrink sizes are quoted in before-diameter/ after-diameter. So 16/8 is 16mm before shrink, 8mm after.

    Quoted from frunch:So, is this the correct size for the clear heat shrink?
    amazon.com link ยป

    That looks to be 8/4 and will be too small.

    #33 4 years ago

    Ever try Bondic that stuff is awesome
    http://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/bondic-kit/6000187094028

    #34 4 years ago
    Quoted from TimeBandit:

    that looks to be 8/4 and will be too small.

    Ahhh, now I get the sizing! Thanks for the info!

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