I don't know about Meteor, but my two early SS games (Firepower and Space Shuttle) are pretty easy to move. Firepower has only 4 or 5 main harness plugs to disconnect in the neck of the game, you don't actually have to unplug everything in the backbox. So basically unplug the harnesses, undo the bolts holding the bb to the cabinet, remove bb, and done. Space Shuttle doesn't appear too different in terms of harnesses, but that one has an early folding backbox. I helped set up a couple other early SS games at an expo that had a removable backbox though, and they were all pretty easy. The trickiest part is engaging the metal brackets on games that have them, versus making sure the bolt holes are lined up on games that don't. It helps to have a second person to stabilize the backbox while it is open.

Aside from connectors, breakdown and setup seems pretty similar to newer games. For breakdown you remove balls and loose objects, remove or fold & secure the backbox, wrap the game if desired, remove legs, etc. Setup is the reverse of breakdown, plus checking leveling and pitch, as well as mechs and connectors that jostled loose during movement and transport, etc.

Early solid state games aren't usually too complicated. The number of connectors that have to be disconnected aren't more than a dozen.

Compare that to a System 11 or WPC--taking the backbox off and then later connecting it back all up is an adventure.

Take several photos before you disassemble things if you haven't done it before just as insurance so you have a reference to where things go if you get stuck. Also, don't forget to disconnect the grounding braid/cable if there is one. On some games, this is attached with a nut in the backbox.

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For Meteor you'll have to pull the two connectors on the right of the MPU, the two connectors on the left and the bottom one on the SDB, and three connectors on the lamp driver board. Feed all of those down into the cabinet.

You will also need to remove the large connector on the rectifier board, disconnect the knocker and speaker, and feed that cable up into the head.

There may also be a couple of square Molex connectors between the head and body that have to come apart.

Oh and don't forget to unscrew the ground strap in the head.

As far as transporting is concerned, keep the backglass in the head and transport it right side up. If you transport it top side down for stability and forget to lock the glass it will fall out. I put the head to one side of the vehicle with the glass facing inward, then shove the cabinet next to it with a moving blanket in between.

Setup can be done a couple of ways:
1. Lift the head onto the machine, bolt it down, then feed the cables through the neck.
2. Lay the head on top of the body (like it would be if it could fold down), feed the cables through the head and neck, then tip it up into place and bolt it down.

For transporting I leave the backglass in and lie the headboard on top of the machine. The bottom of the headboard rests against the neck that supports the headboard. I use foam, bubble wrap or cardboard between the headboard and the cabinet so that if the backglass falls out during transport it doesn't break. I then lightly strap the headboard to the cabinet with a ratchet strap.

If you are transporting many of these, or need to store it on its end to save space, take the rear legs off first, then tilt the machine onto its back with the coin door at the top and the front legs in the air. Take the front legs off. You can then transport it easily with a sack truck or hand trolley. This is what I did when I moved my collection.

When setting back up, don't forget to run the power cord out the slot before attaching backbox.

And reconnecting the ground wire!

I put a moving blanket on the playfield glass and just fold the head down even if it doesn't have a hinge and just strap it using a lashing strap or rachet strap. Then you don't have to disconnect the connectors. It's super easy. I will keep the glass in if it has a lock or remove it if the lock is gone. I wouldn't remove the head unless you have to.

I bought a couple of classic Sterns at the TPF swap meet this year that were broken down and stored like this. Pretty clever way of transporting games in the days before hinged backboxes.

However, I don't know how Bally or Williams cabinets are made, but the necks were broken on both of the Sterns I bought. They weren't designed to handle the weight of the head on the side of the neck like that. So just be aware that if you decide to transport it this way it could possibly damage the neck. I think if you transported it with the cabinet flat instead of upright you should be fine. I don't think standing it up to dolly it around will cause any problems either.

check the slack available on all the connections if you are going to attempt to leave them connected and fold the head down. i just received three sterns and two had connections yanked off the mpu. considering the inherent problems in these style connectors its best not to F with them any more than necessary...

Good advice - I have the strap tightened down pretty good. I wonder if the neck was already weak. The head doesn't put that much pressure on the neck when it's strapped tightly. The moving blanked is there to protect the rails from becoming dented. I've transported a bunch of pins this way and never had issue.

i've pulled the necks off f2k and galaxy during restoration. they are held on with pretty thin nails or staples even

Everything that goes from the head into the coffin comes out. There are connectors between stuff in the head that stays connected.

The first time you do it, it can feel overwhelming. The fifth time is easy. After the first 20 you won't remember what the big deal was. It just gets easier.

Moving is just a matter of protecting the game as you do it. Accept that a nick or two will happen, and protect the glass.

I'm guessing the Ops didn't strap them down super tight and the bouncing from being transported upright would be like a jackhammer on the neck.

I take games to two shows every year. I don't have a walkout basement, but I do have a side door on a landing about halfway up. I have to make a sharp turn in a very tight area to move machines in and out.

To make it easy (and also so that I can move machines in/out by myself) I COMPLETELY disassemble them.

Head
Backglass
Playfield glass
Playfield
Cabinet
Lockdown bar & legs

All come up from the basement in separate trips. I lay the playfield back in the cab, put the glass and lockdown bar on, put the backglass in the head and stand it up next to the cabinet, transport it to the show, roll the cabinet in, roll the head in and reassemble/reconnect everything there. You'll fit right in if you need to transport yours in pieces.