I need one too. I saw walmart had a Sony one on sale for 99.99. But wasn't sure how good it is. http://mobile.walmart.com/ip/Sony-SA-W2500-10-Powered-Subwoofer/12687958?type=shop-by-department

If you want to add a plug and play connector for your sub to stern games directly to the sound board shoot me a email.
Thanks,
Lorenzo
Pinnovators.com

image-242.jpg

The standard Polk PSW10 is a hunner'bux at Amazon most of the time:
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-10-Inch-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B0002KVQBA/ref=sr_1_1

Or newegg if you'd rather:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=polk+psw10&N=-1&isNodeId=1

Not any current sales of the $70 caliber you can apparently get sometimes.

Or you can really extend the budget and go for my favorite subwoofer brand:

www.svsound.com

Oh, I thought you were asking about a "submissive"...never mind then.

Robert

I have an SVS cylinder in my theater. Good stuff.

you want to blow a wad on a subwoofer. Get the best around
https://totemacoustic.com/en/hi-fi/sub-woofers/storm-sub/specifications/

I thought you were talking about

sub-sandwich.jpg

I was gonna say, every month Subway has a couple different subs on sale for 5 bucks.

not even close to the "best sub around"... there are any number of subwoofers that would completely destroy it... this one, for example, will turn that sub into a pile of quivering goo and send it crying for it's momma...

submersive.jpg

furthermore...

realistically, i'd wager at least 90% of pinsiders have no clue how to set up a subwoofer in a room... and an even larger percentage don't have the tools to do it either...

low frequency reproduction in a room is just a BIT more than simply toss a big box in there... it is altogether too uncommon to see posts here at pinside that completely ignore basic audio science...

Sounds like you're just the guy to educate us! I have been putting them under the pins

Add sub, twiddle knobs until it sounds good. Works for me!

This is what I do (HINT: I'm not an audiophile). The problem is, they don't make much if any difference on most of my games. They make a pretty big difference on the couple Sterns I have, but for most of my W/B games, I can barely tell it's connected. On the contrary, I have 2 games that have old PinballPro subs in them and they rattle the glass.

I'm sure I'm doing something stupid (first time for everything...yeah right) but I'd love to get them working well. Might the speakers need some type of line level to raise the overall game volume but pull back the speaker volume?

I have a SPL meter...

Robert

Agreed. Husband used to design/install home theaters professionally, so he's in charge of all electronic things in our house. We've got a home theater that's 7.2 surround sound with thousands of dollars "retail value" in the speakers and 82" TV. (When the company went bankrupt and screwed over the employees, we made sure to take advantage of the liquidation sale prices, so it's much better stuff than I'd actually go shop and pay for.) He knows how to tweek things, set up the room accoustics, etc. The theater sounds awesome. Recently we got a LAH and he upgraded the speakers in the backbox and directly hooked it one of our Polk PSW10 subs, and it sounds... slightly better. I mean, you can tell the difference in clarity, but there's only so much you can do with older sound quality. The whole room has a nice rumble that you can feel upstairs when the shaker/crane goes off though.

We've got one Polk PSW10 dual hooked into Spiderman and Stargate. Very rarely do we ever have both games going at the same time. You can definitely tell a big difference in Spiderman, and it makes Stargate have barely more bass. He's going to upgrade the backbox speakers on those soon because he found a way to do it for around $40 each pin, but I don't know how much of a difference it will make. I am on the lookout for at least one more sub though, once they go back on sale in the $70 shipped range.

Did someone say SPL? This is a true subwoofer and an absolute experience to hear.

http://www.jlaudio.com/g213-gloss-home-audio-gotham-powered-subwoofers-96237

I ordered one of the polk psw 10 from ebay for 100 it was a refurbished one from polk and has a 2 year warranty .I only did this because everyone else was asking 131 .00 but of course they go on sale now lol. Anyway received it today and it looks brand new so I hooked it up to jd and dm and all I can say is wow .I wish I would have bought one months ago its very clean sounding and shakes the floor and walls and its only on half way and the pinball volume is at only 14 so im pretty impressed .in fact im ordering another for rs and jp .

Got my Polk sub for my Metallica off Craigslist for $40. It was hardly used. Save yourself the money

I love my SVS sub! I hooked it up to my Getaway just because I had it sitting in the garage at the time and my wife was in the garage within a minute complaining about how loud it was. Two 12" woofers, 1000w amp.

This is definately the wat to go, Lorenzo gave me one at the Allentown show to replace his original board I got from him a year ago, man what a difference!!!!!

Right, yes. We get that there are great subwoofers out there. Be realistic though - these are pinball machines, not high fidelity audiophile systems. Personally, I would not want to tie up a huge portion of my "hi fi" budget in a piece restricted to use on a pin, that just isn't practical. I work in pro audio, and found a subwoofer at a flea market for $10 that is sufficient for use on my F-14 Tomcat. I have to keep it turned down some anyways, since it shakes the house. Something is better than nothing for the "90% of pinsiders" out there.

I've got two of those Sony subs - bought them years ago. One is on MET and the other is on TAF. Great sounding sub. I have no experience with the Polk subs but if they go on sale again for $70 shipped, I may buy a couple.

Here's my home theater sub...
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_714SW112B/Klipsch-SW-112.html?tp=187&awkw=25289126425&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=6488537905&awdv=c

It pounds! For the money, you can't beat it.

That said, for $70 I run Polk PSW-10's for my Pins. More than adequate and perfect for pin application.

$12,000 for a sub? That thing better vibrate the whole neighborhood!

This^^^^^^

Agree that an external sub just does not work, or is needed on all machines. I had a PSW-8 tied into my F-14 (Williams System 11) and I really didn't notice much improvement.

I also had it connected to my Indy 500 (WPC-DCS) and it makes a nice improvement!

I got a PSW-10 for my AVLE and WOW! Couldn't imaging that game without one!

The PSW-10 is also connected to my T2 (WPC) and it helps that game a lot too!

The PSW-10 at $100 has to be way better than the subs installed in the cabinet as there isn't an extra amp to drive the sub beyond the small amp on the sound card... (although I have not tried one of those other systems).

Yes and I'm sure that thing doesn't take much real estate space. LOL You would be surprise how much the totem sub can push stuff around. Many people think the size of the speaker is important....it's completely false. It's the size of the magnets that are in the back of the speaker.

And yes alot of people need an education in subwoofer placement and the knowledge of cancelling audio waves. If example if you output two audio spectrums with the same frequency...they cancel themselves out.....

How do you hook the PSW-10 or other sub to a WPC game like No Fear(WPC-S- DCS) , Getaway, BSD, Creature from the Black lagoon, or even Congo (WPC95) etc.? Is there a how to hook up external subs to Pins 101 somewhere? How about SYS 11's like Whirlwind, Roller games, etc. Just a little advice would be nice.

Uh, no, not completely false. It's true the size of the magnets are important but remember what we are talking about here. A subwoofer is the entire package - even more important is the amplifier. Size, box design, amp, quality of components used - ALL play an important part in what is important in a subwoofer.

You might need to learn how to express what you mean in text a bit better. If you "output two audio spectrums (audio spectrums???)" If you mean to audio waves, with the same frequency, no they do not cancel themselves out. If they are in the same PHASE, they are additive. If they are out of phase, they effectively cancel themselves out.

Phase-Cancellation.jpg

I just get a connector. Then I tap of the wire going to the sub in bottom of cabinet.
run the wires out and to the sub.

DONE!

560b-run-tap-connector-ul-approved.jpg

That's what I meant but didn't really know the technical jargon... nicely explained. As for the speaker reference I was just talking about the speaker itself...something people think that a 12in sub will always out perform a smaller one. Which is not the case.....in other words...bigger doesn't always mean better.

Just to be clear... you said "tap off the wire going to the sub in bottom of cabinet." er...this is vague. Not everyone has a subwoofer in the bottom of their cab, often these are just regular speakers: A wide range or a woofer, not a subwoofer. If you are tapping off the feed into this speaker,you do have to be mindful of what inputs you are using into your amplified subwoofer. If you are using a amplified subwoofer, you may have line level inputs which require the use of an audio matching transformer. Many subs will also have a "speaker level" or amplified level input, which essentially has the matching circuitry built in.

You can alligator clip, use tap connectors or solder directly to the speaker terminals for the sub feed wires. I prefer the latter for a most reliable connection.

sub.jpg

I finally ran out of Sam boards a few months back. So we ran a design with the built in audio out for a powered sub before we ran the new batch. We could do them for Wms/Bally games but I never had enough demand to justify running new boards for those yet.

I knew that was cumin'......

Do I need to post the picture again?

Here's how I do it: http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hooking-up-powered-sub-to-pinball#post-1611723

There's some other options in that thread too.

Well put......a couple of additional points:

a) The driver itself functions as a unit, and is proportional to desired performance. The size of the cone can have an absolute impact on the driver, as well as the magnet....meaning they must be designed to work together. Depending on what kind of low end your looking for (impact around 110hz, or rumble around 35hz), will depend on the type of driver required. Hard to get big, long sine waves out of small transducers, period.

b) Amplifier choice is crucial to make these (or any) systems work. VERY deceptive power ratings out there, especially in Automotive equipment (a "gagillion" watts for $49.95, forgetting to mention it's @ .25ohm, 250% driven, 25% THD @ 1k....a silly example). You can't have too much power for a sub (or any cabinet), but too little will destroy things in milliseconds....it's how you manage the power that matters.

c) Correct term for "phasing" in the drawing (which is correct) would be "polarity". Identical frequencies at opposing polarities effectively cancel each other out.....no noise. Same polarity, gain achieved (twice the power, 3dbSPL gain).

sorry for rant.....just getting off work......

correct sorry. The big speaker in the bottom of the cabinet.

On the polk sub you can then go in to the speaker inputs.
Simple

Man,....just read my post above....apologize again for being overly "descriptive"....I too, own a multimedia contracting company....and a real crappy day at work....saw the thread and posted in " work mode" ....I come to Pinside ( and play pinball) to escape all of that stuff, as I'm sure a lot of you do......no one needs a lecture here, for sure....my bad

Point taken, as I copied the drawing.

Polarity and phase are often used interchangeably. More correctly, phase refers to a relationship in time. Polarity is more correct for the description of the two opposite waves occurring at the same instant in time.

Correct..."phase shifting", a popular effect for certain vocal and guitar things, can be created with time adjustments, but the polarity between signals is the same.

Your drawing shown in essence is "phase cancellation" when the polarity is reversed.

Good to know there is at least another true audio geek on pinside..I feel better now...

btw....as it relates to pins, I enjoy more bottom end in certain machines, but generally goes through the walls and annoys my Wife. I've been playing around with "artificial stereo" simulation, taking the mono signal (on most of my machines except WOZ, and using DSP along w Aphex processing to create "space" in the signal. Can't change the quality of the samples, but can sure have fun putting it in different places around the machine, image-wise. If you've been doing any of that, let me know...we can pm and share some thoughts. Trying not to come off as too big a geek here.........

Either get one of these: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/any-subs-on-sale#post-1722993

Or as others have pointed out, connect speaker wire to the speaker in the bottom of the cabinet, using spade connectors, alligator clips or soldering and run the wire to one of the speaker level inputs on the PSW-10. You can connect a second pin to the other speaker level input. 2 pins on one sub works great, even if playing them at the same time.

This is too much like work ... but glad it makes you feel better, though. Notice our thread?

IMG_20140620_090212882.jpg

I've been thinking about this a bit. I've got a couple extra of these around the house. I've been meaning to ask one of software engineers that writes our algorithms if he has any that simulate stereo for this box.

Omnia-6EXi-audio-processor-front.jpg

That Pinbit link seems to not be correct, it goes to a T2 Hunter killer ship? What specifically is the item you intended called?
THX

Do you need to have Line level converter?