Had you gone through and cleaned the Game Selector Step Up Unit.
And also, does that unit have spring loaded wipers?
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Had you gone through and cleaned the Game Selector Step Up Unit.
And also, does that unit have spring loaded wipers?
Your welcome. I don't work on the bowlers as much as in the past, but
the last few were from the 50s. It's been awhile since I worked on one with
Flash, but the Flash Motor energizes through the Game Selector Unit when
on Flash or Dual Flash. Tempest is Williams right? If so, I'm thinking the Game
Selector's wiper may be individually spring loaded. You'll want to take the wiper
off and clean the wiper board's rivots either way, but if the wiper is spring loaded,
it's a good idea to put a couple drops of light weight oil in each individual wiper
hole and then move each one in and out a few times to make sure each one is
free and not sticking. Cleaning and lubing the Step Up Units are a good size
plus for the machine.. (T)
Oh yes, I just looked it up. Tempest is a 1964 which is before Williams bought United. I think
in the 60s, Williams stayed with the spring loaded wipers. Anyways, like Fattdirk said, servicing
the Step Ups are a huge plus, especially cleaning and lubing the score motor's wiper board
(which gets heavily used), and the Flash motor's wiper board which also would have
much more friction when on Flash without the lube (light grease)..
I'm pretty sure the Player-Step-Up-Unit also has the spring loaded wipers. I'd do the
same servicing on that..
Glad you care about your vintage machine. Happy to help of I can..
You should be able to get that coil. I wouldn't be surprised if
PBR has one, but when repairing, don't forget to scrape away
the wires outside coating before sodering..
I'm pretty sure the flash motor is fine, but to check, this is
where a vari-ac is handy. I use mine quite a bit..
Did a wire on one of the brake coil's lugs jump to one of the
flash motor's lugs? If so, you should be able to jump it off the
brake coil's hot lead. When the game selector is on flash, and the
1st Shot Relay hasn't been energized, that lead should be hot.
You may be able to jump it of the lock coils hot lead also.
Do you have schematics for the machine? If so, maybe you can
take a pic of the flash motor's circuit..
Okay, the Flash Relay's circuit travels through the Game Selector. So, when on
Flash, is the Flash Relay energized? If so, you'll want to check those contacts,
and a few other relay's contacts that are in that circuit, but lets first make certain
that the Flash Relay is energized when the Game Selector is on Flash..
The schematics shows a switch in the 1-10 and #1 Relays (which are in the bank) need
to be closed and also it looks like Ball Relay but probably saids something else.
If you find the Flash Motor on the schematic and follow its circuit line upward, you'll
see the relays that are in that circuit. It'll say Flash and then have a circle with like a
lightning bolt through it to represent the motor, but check the contacts in the #1 and
1-10 Relays for sure..
You could put a volt meter on the flash motor to check if it has juice, and yet no working,
but I'm 99% sure that the motor is okay..
When it plays 6 players, yet it's set on single play, it
does reset back to the first player, or stays on player 6?
Glad you found the flash problem. I'm a little surprise
the motor was frozen tight..
The Flash is working, that's good, but once the brake coil is back in,
it'll stop on a dime the way its meant to be. Also there's like a cork
little spring loaded clutch in the Flash Unit, right? You'll want to make
sure that the clutch bits, but also is able to break loose..
On the bulbs, putting the #47s in the tight areas, I use a rubber vacuum
hose that the glass end of the bulb snuggly fits into. I take that style of
bulb out that way also, but taking the round style bulbs out cam sometime
be a little tricky. The hose won't really go on the round bulb, but with a bit
of pressure applied, it can turn the bulb the 1/4 or so turn and then can patiently
be wiggled out with a tiny screw driver. If the rubber hose doesn't turn the
bulb, (with machine off), I have broken the bulbs glass with a needle nose pliers
to get to the metal base to take it out. Then of course right away vacuumed
the glass particles. I haven't had too bad of luck with that style of sockets.
Once again with the machine off, after the bulb is out, I have gone on the
backside of a socket and pushed in the little center metal tab to give it a better
connection on the new bulb..
Yeah, I know. Can't get behind all bulb sockets.
Had you takin' of the Coin-Step-Up-Units wiper
and cleaned its wiper board? I clean the boards rivots
by putting a solvent (I use carb cleaner) on a small piece
of scotch brite and rub on the board then wipe off cleanly
before putting on the lube. Also it's a good idea to make sure
that the wiper's blades have pretty good tension on the rivots..
Quoted from HD_Fatboy:The light sockets I cant get to are behind the board that the points coils and reset coils are mounted to.
I just remembered. I have also used a tiny allen (L) wrench
to pull the sockets little center tap forward from the front side if it
looks as though it could use it..
On the score reel units, I do put a small spray of carb cleaner on
a small piece of scotch brite and wipe and clean the center axle
after pulling off the center gear like unit that rides on it, then after
wiping cleanly, I finish it with lemon pledge on a small piece of paper
towel. The pledge makes it 100% stick free.
Yes, it's important to clean all steppers. Not only the number of player
lights, put the Coin-Step-Up-Unit also tells the machine when to reset
back to the first player on a multi player game..
Quoted from HD_Fatboy:I read where do not take snow show style steppers apart if it can be avoided.
Yea. I have had to replaced spring loaded wipers before, but maybe
never on an United. Gottlieb Ball Count wipers I have.
But for sure, I put a couple drops of Remmington Gun Oil in each
of the spring loaded wiper holes. They can stick upward when riding
over he wiper board's rivots..
Those brass pieces on the score reel units are very common to freeze
up. The worse ones I spray and then turn back and forth until it'll
pry upward with a screwdriver.
Glad to hear all is working okay. Lubing up those stepper wiper boards
are important, and I also like to clean the Bank Relay's reset bar and also
the relay plates where the bar makes contact then lube the bar so it
slides on the plates with ease when the bank coil is energized..
Quoted from HD_Fatboy:I hate to admit, as much as my one pinball.
Shuffle Bowling can be a good time. Years back when there was only
the 1956 United Shuffle Bowler and Pool and Ping Pong table, playing partners
on the shuffle for a buck or 2 a man was a dam good time. I actually think at
least as much as it is now with many machines set up..
I have a couple Pitch & Bats set up, and I think 3 stored. If you get any other
machines in, maybe we can make a trade. If you happen to get it a Pleasure
Isle, I'll trade you the 1963 Williams Major League which is the better one
that I have stored..
We're within' reach. I'm in Upstate N.Y. in Newark which is
between Syracuse and Rochester. Not sure if you mentioned,
but what pinball do you presently have?
Oh, my mistake. That's right, I asked what pinball you had.
I was thinking you wondered if I would trade a P&B (Pitch and
Bat) baseball for a High Hand..
A friend threw a Pizza Party here today with a bunch of kids.
I was somewhat busy first thing and wasn't 100% thinking..
This has been a little while, and I forget. Is this you Mike?
Anyways, you'll want to check the contacts in the following
Relays: The Start, Game Over, Pin Reset, Score Motor, Rollover
Motor, and 2nd Ball Relays..
However, if the Game Over Relay energizes when the machine
is turned off, then back on, the problem wouldn't be in the Start
or Game Over Relays, but may be in the others..
Mike, are you saying all this time the "Lock Relay" was not energized after start up?
After you reset the machine, and manually push in the Lock Relay, it does not stay
energized (in)?
If that's the case, there's a slam switch in the rear of the machine where the score
reels are. Probably on the side of the cabinet. Those set of switches need to be clean
and making good connection with each other..
Quoted from drsfmd:Or just solder them shut.
True, but it's a direct circuit with the slam switch being the
only break once the Lock Relay is energized. It sounds like
the lock relay fires, but then won't hold itself which would
very much point right to the Slam Switch..
I'm thinking a quick fix..
Mike, the Bank Relay switch runs off of the score motor's cam.
I'm sure the score motor is completing it's revolution, so check
the switch stacks on the score motor's cam. The Bank Relay coil
is 110V E-mail direct if you like..
Quoted from Pmedic871:I would appreciate any feedback.
Yeah, if you would like a vintage shuffle for the game room,
it's worth $100.00
It's missing the entire wooden box that the coin unit would be in.
Are the wires there (probably an 8 or 9 round prong male plug)
underneath that went to the coin unit..
Edit: I was thinking on some United ball bowlers. The shuffles
may be a 3 prong plug. I know I have one entire box unit which
I'll be using, I'll check if I have another..
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