Quoted from Mopar:Mike, are you saying all this time the "Lock Relay" was not energized after start up?
After you reset the machine, and manually push in the Lock Relay, it does not stay
energized (in)?
If that's the case, there's a slam switch in the rear of the machine where the score
reels are. Probably on the side of the cabinet. Those set of switches need to be clean
and making good connection with each other..
Or just solder them shut.
Quoted from drsfmd:Or just solder them shut.
True, but it's a direct circuit with the slam switch being the
only break once the Lock Relay is energized. It sounds like
the lock relay fires, but then won't hold itself which would
very much point right to the Slam Switch..
I'm thinking a quick fix..
Quoted from Mopar:Mike, are you saying all this time the "Lock Relay" was not energized after start up?
After you reset the machine, and manually push in the Lock Relay, it does not stay
energized (in)?
If that's the case, there's a slam switch in the rear of the machine where the score
reels are. Probably on the side of the cabinet. Those set of switches need to be clean
and making good connection with each other..
I will check this tomorrow, BTW I have been manually setting the lock switch and if I unplug the machine and plug it back in, that's when the Lock relay has to be manually set to rest score reels, however, the machine still will not score throes over the lane switches, I know its has to be due to other switches being set and adjusted correctly. It is going to take me a while cause I am still learning but I believe persistence always wins. I will keep this thread updated.
Thanks so far for every ones help.
OK, Slam switch is cleaned and set to close. Game over and lock relay appear to be working correctly. press coin button once and everything resets. Slide puck down alley nothing happens. The only thing working on alley is rear roll over switches, they activate the rear roll over relay.
This thing is really kicking my ass, now out of nowhere the rear roll over switches quit activating the relay. all I did was clean the contacts on the pin reset motor and the pin reset relay. This thin may make a pretty good bon fire.
Mike, the Bank Relay switch runs off of the score motor's cam.
I'm sure the score motor is completing it's revolution, so check
the switch stacks on the score motor's cam. The Bank Relay coil
is 110V E-mail direct if you like..
Hi Tim,
Thank you so very much for trying to help me, I have a switch or group of switches set wrong, I know I do. all this trying to set correct is backfiring on me. I think its the start or the game over relay switches but not sure. I am trying to figure it out. I could get score motor to run before using 1st ball relay and 2nd ball be but now it will not run either that's why bank relay coil was energized, score motor was not at zero position.
I picked up another shuffle bowler this past weekend. It's for a friend once I get it working. Chicago Coin Prestige. It's going to need some work to get going again. I have a schematic coming, that will help. It's got some burnt up coils that are the first major issue to sort out. The good news is with these out of the circuit, the fuses don't blow and it tries to start up. The bad news is, not only did the coils burn up, it took out the fiber board that moves the relay contacts. The coils can easily be replaced, but I don't know about the fiber boards (help me with what this part is called). I will be needing to repair or replace the following: Start Relay, Rest Relay 2, Rest Relay 3. Additionally, I need the coil number for the start relay, as no evidence of the number is left in the charred mess. Or maybe someone can tell me where to find the entire relay(s)?
Thanks guys!
Picked up three barn find shuffle alleys this weekend. I think the Williams United Palos Verde I will keep and repair. The other two need more work. United Orbit and Williams United Gateway Arch. Maybe I can find someone who wants them???? They are rough. The Gateway cabinet is rough on the right side, and the table needs work on the head end. The orbit has a good table, but the top of the cabinet has water damage. Both are repairable, but probably more than I can handle. Any suggestions? Thanks nomo
I know this is post that is old.but would like to keep it alive.for info and so on .accidently downloaded wrong pic.full house.put in right pic.bgresto did glass .real happy.just finished switch bank.long job but operation was success.please keep this thread alive for other members with shuffle bowlers or small ball bowlers.thank you.
Wms-Full-House-Front-1 (resized).jpg
Hi all, Since I am the one that started the thread, keeping it alive is a great idea. It took me 3 months of a lot of tinkering around to finally get mine working correctly. It sure can be trying at times. Good luck all involved with this thread with your bowlers!
Still working on my shuffle bowler in spare time.just wanted to add sections of machine as I complete them.the lane turned out real nice.replaced cork board side rails with rubber ones from pbr.its said rubber side rails were factory replacement for the cork.i do like the rubber better as the puck bounces better off sides.
Was considering picking this up for $100 and tinkering to see if i can get it working. Guy selling it knows nothing except "It lights up". I figure if the back glass is good it is'nt too risky. No coin mech but it would be for home use. I've never worked on any EM but want to learn. I would appreciate any feedback. Thanks
bowler (resized).jpgQuoted from Pmedic871:I would appreciate any feedback.
Yeah, if you would like a vintage shuffle for the game room,
it's worth $100.00
It's missing the entire wooden box that the coin unit would be in.
Are the wires there (probably an 8 or 9 round prong male plug)
underneath that went to the coin unit..
Edit: I was thinking on some United ball bowlers. The shuffles
may be a 3 prong plug. I know I have one entire box unit which
I'll be using, I'll check if I have another..
Thanks for the advice and your offer Mopar, but that deal got snapped up before I could get there. I have pulled the trigger on a United Times Square Shuffle Alley that will need a little mech. work and the formica(?) looks rough. I searched but didn't find much on repairing or replacing the play surface. I imagine the surface can be polished but there are some larger defects on the near surface of the playfield. I am not looking to restore only make it playable and improve it's appearance if possible. Any words of wisdom? Thanks!
Bowler1 (resized).jpgIt's probably not worth enough to justify the cost of the parts, but if you *really* want to do it, there are new playfields out there... http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-SHUFLANE-UN
FWIW, I have a United machine too, and it has some of the white spotting you've got on yours. I cleaned it well when I first got it, and use liberal applications of the "cheese" and it's been just fine for me.
Cool.freezebox,glad to see another bowler up and working.im sure you already heard a few times what needs replaced on yours,ha ha.i would try and find a flat piece of stainless .old frige,table ect...and just cut holes.looks real good anyway.glad you posted.thanks.
http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=BOWL
May cost more than the bowler, but there’s reproduction Formica out there.
The pinball resource,also try pinballmike.com,also ebay,another place is in missouri,not saint louis,if I can look it up later I will post it.good luck.
HEY GUYS ( ATTENTION !!!) .IF YOU OWN A UNITED 6 PLAYER SHUFFLE ALLEY.GO TO GOOGLE AND TYPE IN .(1954 UNITED TEAM SHUFFLE ALLEY,BOWLER) .THEN GO TO( ARCADE MUSEUM ) WEBSITE.THERE YOU CAN DOWNLOAD SERVICE MANUAL FOR UNITED 6 PLAYER SHUFFLE ALLEYS.MOST 1950,S MODELS WILL BE SAME.HOPE THIS HELPS GET SOME OF THESE SHUFFLE ALLEYS WORKING AGAIN.MANUAL HAS IT ALL FOR THESE TYPE ALLEYS. GOOD LUCK.
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! I just got a United Mars Shuffle Alley and have been scouring looking for a schematics/manual for it. Would love to restore it to playing condition.
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