I just picked up a Seawitch that needs a new BG...anything to recommend yours vs CPR other than price? I was going to upgrade my DE SW to back glass while I was shipping, but that's a very reasonable price.

May replace the playfield at some point too, though this one is pretty good other than an absurd amount of ball swirl. You expect to make those for a while, or limited run and done?

You are awesome. I just picked one up and am immediately troubleshooting a light issue, just made my life much easier. Thanks!

Those look nifty, but is there a specific reason I want them? Never had issues with balls going up there, but that's all I can think of...

Can someone with an original paint job post a pic of the side of the head? Repainting mine, pimp stencils have a base color (light blue) stripe at the front by the frame. Swear mine didn't, but already sanded down, and the photos I'm finding all look like repaint jobs.

I'm finishing up a playfield swap/cab restore and can restore now, if you're looking for someone to test it out I'd be happy to if it requires no permanent mods. Might be interesting to see how it rolls with the fantastic repro playfield
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Mine will have traditional bats, which could make a dif.

On a related note, John @ Precision (the awesome new aluminum flippers, have put them on all my modern stuff) is making a small run of aluminium flipper bushings specifically for classic sterns in a couple of weeks (slightly different size than modern or b/w). While I love them in general for the tighter play, anyone who is doing a Fantastic swap should reach out and see if you can get a set - I'm guessing if you have to enlarge that lower left flipper bushings hole to get the alignment right as others have (and I will), the reduced support for plastic bushings may wear them faster or cause other issues long term. And if nothing else they really do improve play. Not sure if he'll do them again, so if interested, I'd shout now.

Home stretch on the swap. Thinking I'll try some titans on it instead of the rubber...white looked pretty sharp, but has anyone tried light blue, and if so, any pics? I normally like transparent around lights but I think that's just gonna look strange here, leaning towards light blue or just sticking with white.

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Repopulating the topside and just realized some of the star posts are slightly taller than others - basically identical posts other than the top bit being a bit longer, so didn't notice what came from where taking them off. Actually didn't even notice until I had them all on and was check plastic fits, lol.

Which go where? I'm guessing the talls came from around the pop circle and middle drops maybe?

Man, I love when someone saves my lazy ass the trouble of clicking a link and researching Thanks man, you too cotton.

Where'd that apron card come from by the way? Dig.

I thought about doing a custom instruction card...

1. Shoot the drops in order.
2. Shout YAY! when you actually hit the loop. Probably by accident.
3. Wonder why it's not worth more.
4. Try not to drain, but when you do, YAY SCORE!

Yup, those plastics are original and fortunately pretty minty. Your colors are spot on. Can't wait to flip it.

Speaking of colors, I said screw tradition on the cab and did it in metallics. Was a bit of a PITA, but love the way it turned out. Couple more coats of clear for posterity and I'll get her put back together.

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Shipped too. Came out cheaper, and better quality. Not a knock on CPR, just props where due.

Now, go make more stargazer Playfields :p

Can someone post a couple quick pics of the lower inside of the backbox, preferably a Seawitch? Reassembling and don't seem to have any pics. Just wanna make sure i wire the ground into everything that needs it. Think it should be self explanatory but, ya know, measure twice cut onse.

Well, I've still got a fair bit of work to do fixing small stuff and dialing everything in, but really happy with how this came out. Pics don't do the metallics justice, and the powder is metallic with a slight irridescense. Got some lights out, need to adjust the flippers and figure out why one of the pops and slings aren't firing, but booted up and played fine. Pretty anxiety inducing flipping it on that first time after complete disassembly and playfield swap.

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Saw someone else do it on a restore thread, seemed like an easy way to reduce all that crap that came off in the dishwasher in the future Cheap on Amazon. Was gonna do the underside of the playfield too, but that was a real PITA so scrapped it.

Agreed. I'm happy with my paint job but it doesn't hold a candle to that playfield.

Offhand I'm not sure on the specifics of the circuits involved, but often there's a safety check built in to verify a minimum voltage... usually a capacitor in that line to maintain voltage, if it starts to go bad you'll get what you're seeing when the voltage drops too low. Had a Zac do something similar; only noticed when I put it in my garage for a while in the winter and it was cold, which exacerbated the failing cap.

I just finished a playfield swap; the short version is you need the tall ones at the slings, short ones at the edge plastics to match the rail height - everywhere else either will work. There's an image mapping the usual positions of tall/short earlier in the thread (might be what you're referring to here). Usually it's talls around that left target bank plastic too, only reason I can figure is it might reduce airballs over there which some say are a problem.

I'd dig just lit waves, but can't really get into putting the name up there, right above the name on the backglass. Not sure why everyone does that, other than it's pretty simple to make happen. Lum Topper? Does look nice, redundancy aside.