(Topic ID: 61134)

Official Seawitch Fan Club ... All Welcome

By DirtySouth

10 years ago


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Post #209 Replacement Shooter Lane Ball Gate by Cliffy Posted by Cliffy (8 years ago)

Post #391 Link to IPDB for manual / schematics. Posted by frunch (6 years ago)

Post #512 Link for guide to wiring in new rectifier board. Posted by Chalkey (5 years ago)


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#1250 1 year ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Finally got the top coils swapped over to 600s. Still getting airballs unfortunately. With deflectors no longer being available, what's my next step? Resistors? EOS? Smashing my head into a wall? Haven't swapped my lower 500s to 475s but I don't really expect a lot of difference tbh. Power from the flippers seems fine as is.
Also got my Evos installed. Didn't like the translucent blue caps I bought so I swapped the OGs back in while I look around for something different. Think I may try changing GI over to cool white to see how I like that, I've never been a huge fan of how the cool white underglow of evos contrasts against anything OTHER than cool white GI. My High Speed is a similar deal with warm white GI and Evos and I just don't like the contrast. But imo cool white GI only SOMETIMES works. Witch might be the case where it does.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Inserts all level? airballs are pretty infrequent on my Seawitch... sometimes running too much pitch can cause airballs as well.. so obviously, if you must run that angle, then you need some other creative solution.. but tbh, the game may play faster, but I find the difficulty less with greater pitch unless you compensate with wider outlanes...

1 month later
#1286 1 year ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

It's a cruel game lol. I'm not particularly amazing at it either, but I finally knocked off my friend's high score yesterday, albeit only by 2000 (I tilted away my last ball). I love Seawitch though!
[quoted image]

Better than knocks.. When people around hear that bonus go on for longer than it has any business going on for.. Hahaha.. Then some extra wave crashing sounds.. And then shoot again.

#1294 1 year ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

When it's time to hit the top drops the lower left flipper can hit most. Shooting the left of the center drops from the lower right or upper left can get the harder to reach ones off of the pops.
Still nothing more satisfying than that loop though. Either direction. I wish it was worth more!

There is a custom rom which awards loop / spinner a bit more (dip setting), and also records a GC for the spinner, but for sure, it is a drop target / bonus multiplier game primarily.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-software-for-stern-seawitch

5 months later
#1333 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I posted this on the Stern Electronics thread but it belongs here.
I cooked up something for Seawitch. Have a look.
I have some .125 polycarbonate on hand and the idea just hit me this afternoon. So I went to work.
I cut the poly to match the upper left orbit plastic. I modded a plastic post and attached it to the poly.
I have been playing Seawitch hard this afternoon. This mod works great. There is a little more at the link.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/price-check-1980-sterns-quicksilver-stargazer-seawitch/page/150#post-7227200
See post #7467

Any chance of getting any video of the gameplay after the adjustment?

Thank you-

#1334 1 year ago
Quoted from FantasticPinball:

I still have a brand new Seawitch playfield and a brand new Seawitch backglass sitting on the shelf.
I guess the demand for these is complete so there is no need to run another batch?

I've been ogling over it for a while.. prob regret not getting it.. just not sure if I'm rich enough, or if my example is poor enough. :/.

Ahh..

3 weeks later
#1350 1 year ago
Quoted from mikeflan:

Hey gang-
Having an issue with my Seawitch. This is a little complicated so here goes:
1) Putting in a coin does not give a credit.
2) In switch test, dropping a coin does activate the correct coin credit switch (Switch 3 I believe)
3) Swapped out another PIA chip in U10 as a shot in the dark: no change.
4) Switched out the MPU with another and the same thing.
Any ideas? Problem came out of nowhere. Would lead me to think it is a wiring issue but I have no idea where to start. In the schematics I noted that one of the coin switches is supposed to have a diode and none of mine have one. But I checked another Seawitch I have and it doesn't have diodes on any of the coin switches either.
Thanks for any info.
Mike

So in switch test you can actuate slot 1,2 and 3 and this registers correctly .. But outside of the test they are not giving the configured credit for any of them?

3 weeks later
#1363 1 year ago
Quoted from SR230CC:

Got my Swinks drop targets installed. No more bricks. I also installed modern flippers. They don’t help much on the loops but the ball comes off the guides very smooth now.
[quoted image]

That's interesting.. Never seen anyone retrofit the tombstones on Seawitch. I figured the new style was better for sweeping? maybe not.. curious to see them in video if you could share some gameplay?

Should be noted, that WMS style 3" bats are the shortest. Bally carrot style are the longest. Bally/Stern are somewhere in between.. I think the Stern are actually less wide than bally? Either way, it's amazing the difference that tiny bit of thickness and length can make.

#1367 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

The tombstones and the hooded drop targets are the same size. The difference in width that you see is just part of the hood extending over to the side. You can sand the hood off and have a tombstone.

Yeah, I guess I was thinking maybe the ball made some contact with the hood.. but on consideration, it must hit below.

2 months later
#1427 1 year ago
Quoted from aeonblack:

Just joined the club as well! Game is a project that came with a NIB playfield, backglass and plastics from CPR. Currently I know the rectifier board is shot and a few of the drops are busted, but I've got all the replacement stuff on order now for those.
The plan is to remove and clean the drop banks, put in new targets and re-install onto old pf, replace the rectifier board and see if I have any other issues. If I don't have any other board issues I figure I can probably swap the game to the new pf over a weekend. I've never replaced a rectifier board, so that should be interesting, but probably not as interesting as all the sparks and smoke that board made when I turned it on lol

It's quite satisfying, particularly since the Stern/Bally boards are always so toasted and hacked. Congrats on the machine!

#1434 1 year ago
Quoted from MasterBlaster:

Aha! While we’re on the subject of updated code and whatnot, I thought I remembered seeing something about updated rule set for Seawitch? I did a search on this thread and couldn’t seem to find mention, but I could’ve sworn I saw something as I was scrolling pages. Unless I dreamed it. Or I was looking at an entirely different thread about an entirely different game, which is highly possible!

Here is the thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-software-for-stern-seawitch

As mentioned in the thread as well, the stock code is solid for sure.. these are some adjustments tho which you might enjoy. The high score spinner count mod is definitely pretty good to have. Some other tweaks to add some incentive for loop etc...

1 month later
#1488 11 months ago

Streaming some new code from slochar if anyone wants to join.. Starting in a few minutes.

I'm live on Twitch, come hang out! https://www.twitch.tv/pinbruh?sr=a

1 week later
#1490 10 months ago
Quoted from aeonblack:

Hey guys, hoping I can get a little bit of guidance because I can't seem to find the solution so far. I got the game working 100% and then I did the playfield swap. I replaced all the GI with LED's and the feature inserts with the led pcb's that Pinball Life carries (similar to Yopsicles...https://www.pinballlife.com/classic-bally-stern-insert-led-pcb.html). Now, the 10a feature fuse on the rectifier board blows as soon as the game boots up.
I assumed I had a short somewhere, so I went through looking for anything touching or mis-wired but I can't find anything. I re-flowed a few solder joints that looked a bit suspicious, but testing with continuity everything is grounding fine over the common. I know the rectifier board is solid as it was tested and working for weeks before the playfield swap (and it's a new rectifier board, everything was re-soldered and re-pinned). The LDA-100 board in the backbox looks solid as well. Could this be caused by an issue with the connectors? To me that would just make them not work (not blow the fuse), am I correct in thinking that?
At this point, any ideas are welcome!

I'd kind of sus those lamp boards maybe? Is it possible to try running it with only one header off the lamp driver? Maybe try with just J2 and then just with J3? Just thinking of a quick way to try to isolate if there might be a particular feature lamp that is defective and shorting?

#1492 10 months ago
Quoted from aeonblack:

Okay, so J2 only was still causing the fuse to blow, J3 only did not cause it to blow (but there were still no lights on). On closer inspection, the 7th pin from the bottom on J2 had some kind of green goop on it, so I pulled that pin, cleaned it with alcohol spray and reseated it. Now with both J2 and J3 connected the fuse isn't blowing but I am still not getting any feature lights EXCEPT for the white arrow just after the spinner. Doing the feature light self test nothing flashes or turns on (except for the white arrow which just stays lit).
I'm also now getting the 1a fuse on the playfield blowing as soon as any coil but the knocker fires so something must be messed up there too.

When you did the swap, I'm assuming you kept the wire harness intact, and just replaced the sockets with the led boards.

Green goop is normal with all sterns. good to clean it off, but I don't think this would have caused the symptom you were having.

Seems to just point to a PF short somewhere.... The coil short seems like the easiest to track down.. hopefully it's all related...

#1494 10 months ago
Quoted from aeonblack:

That's correct, so I don't think I corrected anything backwards (but who knows, never rule anything out lol).
Glad that the green goop is normal...but it's weird that after I cleaned it up the fuse stopped blowing. Maybe it was just re-seating that connector that actually fixed it? Still hasn't fixed the lights, but at least it's a start that the fuse isn't constantly blowing now.

Yeah, I think I read about the goop being from the wire insulation is some breakdown on plastic.. it's weird, but every classic stern that has not been serviced seems to have it.

Yeah, If they are not on tho, that sounds like another issue. Out of curiosity, was the game originally set up for LEDs? I ask because possibly the OE or an aftermarket Lamp driver is already configured/modified for LED, if this is the case, you prob can disable this, as the LED boards you have will already have their own anti-flicker driver.

Actually looking at these, I think they may be driving the LED properly.. much better than Yopps? I've never seen it before.. but looks great.

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