forceflow:
and is sold out.

see post about 5 above yours

really??

I've made the 'riptide' shot in both directions from the upper flippers. while it's not an "easy" shot (by any means), it is makeable and I believe that you should be able to "rip" around the loop multiple times with a well-timed flip.

however, I have noticed that on my game, there is definitely not enough space for the ball to "slide" under the upper right flipper back into the shooter lane. in fact, a well placed shot will [trap] the ball between the bottom of the flipper and the playfield plastic below. the flippers are the standard stern part no. 1A-284 shoe/shaft components

I'm going to be restoring my from top to bottom. if you don't mind waiting a while, I'll post out my old slingshot plastic to you once I take delivery of my reproduction playfield from greatwichjohn.

I'm kind of bummed out that mine doesn't have that brick pattern on the bottom of the cabinet

wow! those look 100% better. what exactly did you use?

goo-gone (not goof-off) appears to work gently (I had a huge operator's metal sticker right over the center of the apron) but I messed up and then attempted to use isopropol alcohol afterwards clean up some residue which started to break down the paint

it's time that matt merfeld started producing reproduction classic stern aprons!

matt, are you listening?

unfortunately, the colors don't look correct for their seawitch apron decal

ah, it was the black (to show the shape of the apron) that threw me. I guess I should have taken more time to read

I've emailed cliffy a few times and offered to send mine, but I've had no response from him

sweet! and pretty cool that I'm a pinball reference now

cdnpinballer:
I may have one. I'll check when I get home tonight and pm you

doh! I got busy and forgot to look. I promise to do so tomorrow night

a huge thanks to cliff for getting this done!!

seshpilot:
I haven't done that to mine yet, but might take the plunge when I've got some time. I'm on john's list for repro playfield, so if it gets any cleaner, it would be better than what mine currently looks like

just remember to go slow and don't press hard. you don't want to burn through the paint

I'm one of the 10 people still waiting for their SG playfield (and I'm also on the SW list). my guess is that we will not see any progress on the seawitch playfields until this summer (june-july) at the earliest

greatwichjohn does a really nice repro backglass (and is going to start producing repro playfields soon

check out this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/would-you-prepay-500-us-for-a-new-stern-seawitch-or-star-gazer-playfield

I got mine 2 years ago for $300, so there are some "deals" to be had. it had a few hacks and the top thumper bumper didn't work (which turned out to a few issues on the power driver board

patiently waiting for greatwichjohn to start completing the seawitch playfields (already have a new backglass from him

they didn't pay $1499, it looks like a best offer was accepted. I like the fact that it had a make shift piece of metal for the shooter lane divertor
2017-03-08 11_18_08-stern seawitch _ eBay (resized).jpg

I guess for someone who is one greatwichjohn's playfield list, but didn't have a machine, it was one way (albeit an expensive one) to get you 80% there to building one from scratch

when soldering the wires directly to the rectifier board, there are some eyelets that you can purchase (they crimp onto the wire and provide a strain relief for the actual soldered connection). I can't remember the exact name, but I think they are still sitting on my creech, so I'll check when I get home. I think that I purchased them from either digi-key or mouser.

A104001CT-ND (resized).jpg

Terminals - Wire to Board Connectors -- A104001CT-ND
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/3-770565-2/A104001CT-ND/2816399

very nice

Jjsmooth
the blue flipper rubbers were a nice touch. who's are you using?

that's interesting, especially considering that they are hot stamped as well with the outer ringed ribbing. prototype caps (or possibly homemade?

1- shooter lane much improved with a "ski jump" instead of the metal flapper, makes RH loop shots easier.

this is the one thing that I would like to see if it's possible to retrofit in my seawitch. it looks like it's 2 or 3 pieces of metal; the ski jump itself, a different outer ball guide which has the cut out that is just over the 1/2 of ball's height under the [jump] and a 2nd (upper section) of ball guide to prevent launched balls from leaving the playfield

at this point, you might as well hold off producing any more seawitch playfields until you receive the yellow arrow inserts. given that you are ordering them, I'm guessing that everyone on the list is going to want them, I know that I do (and based on how long we've already waited, 1 more month isn't going to make that much of a difference

for anyone interested in altering their seawitch as cottonm4 did above, I have one extra set of all of the stern parts required to make the change. contact me via pm for details

the guys reproducing the classic bally aprons are supposedly going to go the same route with the classic sterns. my understanding is that it's just a matter of time

silly question, but have you checked continuity on the wire(s) that should be providing the 5v to the SDU board from the rectifier board?

haven't seen the CPR one. I've got john's and it's very nice

UV light over the years has changed the chemical make-up of the posts. they were originally a deep blue. steve young @ pinball resource was kind enough to re-run these a while back.

I want your apron. it looks 10x nicer than mine

kevin @ CPR will state that they used the pantone colors listed which is fine, however I think a lot of additional factors come into play (based on what I've personally experienced helping to produce the repro plastics for joust

- I honestly believe that colors that were selected by the artist/designer and indicated on the original drawings, doesn't rule out the possibility that different colors were used (or mixed) on the production items given how long ago some of these were actually originally produced

- pantone chips have a life expectancy of about 12-18 months. at that point you are supposed to purchase a new set. pantone sells both a coated and uncoated set of their color chips for $370. they can change and be rendered useless if not properly stored

- monitor colors can look completely different than what actually gets printed (even if you have an expensive, correctly calibrated monitor. monitors are RGB and most printing process use CMYK

- pinball manufacturers used multiple vendors to source their parts. playfields and plastics alike could be produced by upwards of 4 vendors, each using their own "color mixes" (which also varied lot to lot)

when we did the color selection for the joust plastics, I did so over 5x under completely different environments & conditions (outdoors summer day w/ no cloud cover & overcast, indoors w/ halogen lighting, w/ LED lighting and w/ incandescent lighting) to determine which color chips most closely resembled the unfaded colors on the plastics. it was a very difficult & time consuming process, because I could determine colors and then wait an hour and try and do it all over again and come up with completely different results.

I would start by swapping P1 with P2, 3 or 4 and see if the issue moves with the display or remains with the P1 position. that will help you identify if the problem resides in the display itself (or board) or in the wiring/connector going to P1.

if the issue persists in the P1 position, then clean connector/perform continuity tests on all wires to trace the issue.
if the issue moves, then it could be the edge connector on the display board, the glass display itself or component(s) on the display board.