(Topic ID: 61134)

Official Seawitch Fan Club ... All Welcome

By DirtySouth

10 years ago


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3 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #209 Replacement Shooter Lane Ball Gate by Cliffy Posted by Cliffy (8 years ago)

Post #391 Link to IPDB for manual / schematics. Posted by frunch (6 years ago)

Post #512 Link for guide to wiring in new rectifier board. Posted by Chalkey (5 years ago)


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#116 8 years ago

Just joined the club myself! I found some very useful info in this thread. Does anybody know if Cliffy ever repro'd the A-667 Ball Guide? I'm in the process of a relatively thorough shop job and found that the ball guide on my game is ok, but has begun cracking toward the lower half near the bottom rivet. It'll hold for now, but I'm hoping to locate a replacement sooner or later (or J-B Weld the crack, if it comes down to it)...Anyways, I wanted this game for years and finally landed one! Here's a couple pics!

IMG_20150713_191012.jpgIMG_20150713_191012.jpg

IMG_20150718_171625.jpgIMG_20150718_171625.jpg

#122 8 years ago

Can anyone tell me what the part number is for the lower 2 flipper EOS switches? They are stacks of 2 switches. I can't find a part number in the Stern parts catalogue. Anyone?

Thanks!

3 weeks later
#158 8 years ago

I just realized I forgot to order 2+3/4" rubber rings for the slingshots on my Seawitch (naturally, as she's very close to completion since I picked it up and started working on it a month ago), and I don't want to place an order strictly for a couple rubber rings. Will 2+1/2" rings suffice? I have plenty of them. What do you all use? They seem like an odd size...

#160 8 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

try them they ay be just fine.

I will! Just grinds my gears when I think about all the parts I've ordered for this thing and still managed to forget something... oh, the trials and tribulations of being a pin head!

#162 8 years ago

Are there replacement drop target decals available anywhere? Looks like one of the targets on my Seawitch was replaced and the target that was used as a replacement has no graphic on it at all. Looks like Action Pinball has some, but they look really pixelated (at least on their site they do)...can anyone recommend a place I can get decals?

Thanks!

#165 8 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

frunch pm your address and i will send you a used target

PM sent! Thanks a million!

1 week later
#175 8 years ago

Quick wiring question in hoping someone can help me with: I'm replacing the speaker, and I'm not sure which wire is the positive and which is the negative. Schematics don't appear to tell which is which, and I couldn't see any designation on the old speaker. There's a green wire with yellow tracer going to one lug, and another green wire with white tracer going to the other.

Also, I'm looking to replace the volume pot-what is the correct value for the replacement?

Thanks!!

#182 8 years ago
Quoted from schudel5:

Potentiometer 25k Ohm goes to J3-1 and J3-3 on sound board.
Speaker Out (+) Green/white from J3-9 on sound board.
Speaker ground (-) Green/yellow from J3-8 on sound board.

Thanks so much! Armed with this info, I'm yet another step closer to finally reassembling my newly acquired 'witch!

#185 8 years ago

Started a topic in the restoration forum, but thought I'd ask here too: how should I go about cleaning the apron on this game? I've read of accounts where people have ruined their apron trying to clean it. Any suggestions?

#189 8 years ago

Thanks for the tips! I'm going to go the soap & water route. Lightly, as suggested. My Seawitch is a little rough around the edges anyway, I can deal if the apron isn't spotlessly clean.

Thanks again!

#197 8 years ago

Thanks for all the responses! I opted to go with Classic_Stern's advice and just used a very mild mix of soap and water. I was very careful not to apply too much pressure when cleaning, and it went fine.

Next issue: I've got the game up and running, so now to dig into gameplay problems! I've found 90% of shots to the right orbit from the bottom-left flipper wind up bouncing off the spring-steel ball flap on the right, ricochet back and forth (a few inches above the spinner), then roll back down the way it came (usually stopping the spinner from racking up all those glorious points).....I have to assume others have run into this issue. Any ideas what I can do to prevent this from happening, or at least from happening as often? I'll post a video if it needed, to demonstrate what I'm talking about.

Thanks!

2 months later
#203 8 years ago

That's fantastic news! I'm looking forward to ordering one myself! Please let us know when they become available!

#216 8 years ago

Thanks for your hard work Cliffy! I wish you a speedy recovery!

1 week later
#231 8 years ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

SOOOO pumped to be joining this club. Just bought my Seawitch. Probably overpaid, but REALLY want this game! Being delivered by STI in the next week or so. Pics coming...

Congrats, man! Welcome to the club!

1 year later
#297 7 years ago

Have you checked for voltage at the drop target reset coils?

2 weeks later
#301 7 years ago
Quoted from fnord:

Late follow up, but yeah it was the yellow wire that carried power. There was a bad solder point on one of the solenoids which was sometimes letting enough power through to run the rest of the solenoids and sometimes was not.
Thanks

Nice! Glad to see this thread has helped a number of folks. Nothing like finally conquering a stubborn problem!

6 months later
#391 6 years ago
Quoted from Venom_249:

Also is there anywhere to find a switch matrix diagram for these older bally/sterns?

The manual and schematics are both freely available at the internet pinball database. They're both in the documentation section:

http://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=Seawitch&sortby=name&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick#2089

1 year later
#455 5 years ago

I've always had trouble with the ball flap/gate at the end of the shooter lane and recently made a prototype gate with piano wire and a spring. I originally posted this a little while ago on the Stern Electronics club thread, but thought I'd share here as well. The design is far from final, but it works surprisingly well as is. I rarely get a spinner shot rejected since putting it in place of the metal flap. It also interferes less with the ball on plunges. Only issue so far is the gate bumps the ball when it comes around the loop clockwise, making it a somewhat unpredictable transition to the upper right flipper. I'm pretty happy with it as it is though, and hope to continue improving the design. cottonm4 sounds interested in the idea, so maybe he'll come up with something
IMG_20180930_102940.jpgIMG_20180930_102940.jpgIMG_20180930_102946.jpgIMG_20180930_102946.jpgIMG_20180930_103014.jpgIMG_20180930_103014.jpg

1 month later
#457 5 years ago

I spotted a Seawitch repro backglass for sale here at pinside. $150+$50 shipping

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-seawitch-backglass-1

1 month later
#475 5 years ago

Who else is playing Seawitch tonight (or today, depending on time zone)?

IMG_20190106_192628.jpgIMG_20190106_192628.jpg
#479 5 years ago

Should be rivets. Contact Cliffy to order up one of his replacement ball guides for the game, they're very nice.

www.passionforpinball.com

...I don't see them listed at his site, but i was able to order one from him via email, listed at the contact section

(forgive the potato quality of this photo, but it should do the trick showing the rivets)

IMG_20190107_090824.jpgIMG_20190107_090824.jpg
4 months later
#707 4 years ago
Quoted from Marv:

Solenoids don't seem to be working correctly, i.e If the Right slingshot is hit the knocker sounds and the right bumper will trigger the ball trough.

Sounds possible that the solenoid data lines are missing a bit--possibly due to bad solder joint or bad connector. I would make sure the male and female connectors at J4 on the MPU and J4 on the SDU have both been re-pinned/re-flowed/replaced, as they carry the solenoid data between the MPU and SDU. If one or more bits are missing, it can cause weird behavior/incorrect coils firing.

2 months later
#719 4 years ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Came here to put up a vid of a mod that I came up with to improve loops flow:

I was tinkering with some ideas to improve the design there too but never came up with anything i was completely satisfied with. Any chance you would want to make another to sell?

#730 4 years ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

I have some alterations I'm working on that will allow a better alignment with the spinner rubber guide. I think the most practical way to adjust tension is simply by spring selection.
Here is a coloser video of the existing version demonstrating some orbits.

Looks good, man! Count me in if you decide to make some more of em!

Gotta admit it never crossed my mind to throw a power Ball into my Seawitch. I might have to finally treat myself to one....

4 months later
#755 4 years ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Will be joining the club very soon!


Congrats!!!!

#772 4 years ago

+1 for John's. Not to mention the packing job he did for shopping the glass. First rate all the way!

1 month later
#827 4 years ago
Quoted from Tallon:

So I'm gonna throw this out there and see who knows the right answer. I have a seawitch with bally yellow bats and I was having trouble hitting the right shot under the upper right flipper into the shooter lane. When I was at the Pinball Life open house, I saw that the classic stern flipper bats were narrower at the tip (like Williams bats) and have a slightly shorter rod. Are these more accurate to the bats that came on the game? Mine was a basket case when I got it.

Yeah, you'll want the type 2 flipper bats--here's a link for them at Pinball Life: https://www.pinballlife.com/classic-stern-flipper-bat-and-shaft-assembly.html

2 months later
#894 3 years ago
Quoted from jim5six:

I cannot afford a kruzman clearcoat... this is as it came. Its good for me but for some it will not be good enough. To me its still pinball... I don't need (or more honest cant afford) crazy nice.
-Jim

Just curious, what's the approx cost on something like that?

1 month later
#933 3 years ago
Quoted from Completist:

Backbox GI is fine, i have some GI on pf but some lamps are very dim. When i first powered up the game i know my pops were lit fine. Now they are barely glowing.

I'd take a close look at the solder connections at each gi socket under the pf. There may be a weak/loose connection somewhere.

2 years later
#1446 1 year ago
Quoted from joetechbob:

I designed a couple of 3d printed parts, one being the equivalent of the metal ramp you installed, but set up to only require the original mounts.

Nice work!! Definitely put me on the list if you're planning on making more!

1 month later
#1502 11 months ago
Quoted from joelfrancis:

At some point based on no pattern it will simply stop.

Have you re-pinned any of the connectors going to the rectifier board, solenoid driver board, or MPU?

When the game "stops", does it go back to 'attract mode' where it cycles the playfield lights, shows high score and scores from the last game played, etc?

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