(Topic ID: 61134)

Official Seawitch Fan Club ... All Welcome

By DirtySouth

6 years ago

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  • 736 posts
  • 105 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 37 days ago by cottonm4
  • Topic is favorited by 37 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #209 Replacement Shooter Lane Ball Gate by Cliffy Posted by Cliffy (3 years ago)

Post #391 Link to IPDB for manual / schematics. Posted by frunch (2 years ago)

Post #512 Link for guide to wiring in new rectifier board. Posted by Chalkey (9 months ago)

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#321 2 years ago

I'm in the club!
Just picked up a decent one for $100 yesterday. Not working, cosmetics are decent, wiring has some hacks.
IMG_0280 (Medium) (resized).JPGIMG_0257 (Medium) (resized).JPGIMG_0261 (Medium) (resized).JPGIMG_0263 (Medium) (resized).JPGIMG_0264 (Medium) (resized).JPGIMG_0260 (Medium) (resized).JPG

#325 2 years ago
Quoted from Vince_Giannini:

WOW $100! Good find, enjoy.

And he thanked me for taking it off of his hands, as he was moving and did not want to deal with it.
I am always there to help!

#328 2 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Nice buy !! Nice play field !! And yes, I am jealous . Yours has that brick-like looking material for the bottom. I find that interesting. Mine has a real wood bottom, not any kind of fiber board.
But my Nine Ball had the same brick-like bottom your Witch has. My NB bottom was sagging so bad that I had to replace it. Your bottom looks like it is in nice shape.

I hate to brag, but yes, my bottom is in great shape....

#330 2 years ago

Cool, never seen a Bally -35/Stern MPU-200 this clean & acid damage free!!
Ordered NVRAM & will do a ground mod - should be good to go, unless of course the wiring hacks were destructive. We will see, have not powered it up yet. Lots of cracked solder on the display connections- fixing that... Re-capping sound board & solenoid driver board (w/ Clay's ground mods too).
The rectifier board is pretty messed up, I am leaning towards getting the Pinhead replacement from PBR....
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#332 2 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

pinhead replacement thats what i did . thumbs up!

Great, thanks for the vote of confidence on pinhead

#344 2 years ago

Hey, what size locks does Seawitch use on the coin door & backbox?
Never had a classic Stern before, are they the standard 7/8"
(the pin is at my storage & I just have the boards at home)

2 weeks later
#351 2 years ago

Well, my Seawitch is coming along. Replaced all male headers on all of the boards, recapped sound board & solenoid driver, installed NVRAM, & re-pinned all plugs. Good thing I did the plugs, as I found this ...
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Decided to give rebuilding my rectifier board a try & I think it turned out ok.
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Cleaning up inside of head, replacing drilled out lock, putting in new board standoffs to replace the old brittle ones, clean ground contact areas, & replace several missing board mounting screws (grounds!).

Once this is complete I need to solder the wires to the back of the rectifier board & test my output voltages. If they look good then I will plug it all together & see where I stand.

IMG_2843 (Medium) (resized).JPG

#353 2 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

when soldering the wires directly to the rectifier board, there are some eyelets that you can purchase (they crimp onto the wire and provide a strain relief for the actual soldered connection). I can't remember the exact name, but I think they are still sitting on my creech, so I'll check when I get home. I think that I purchased them from either digi-key or mouser.

Yes, I would be interested in seeing what those are.

#355 2 years ago

Well, on vacation in San Francisco and visited the Pacific pinball museum. Finally got to play a Stern Seawitch! I must say I was impressed, play was fast and fun. The pin needed a little TLC, but I got a good feel for how it plays. Can't wait to get finish the restoration on mine.

1 week later
#362 2 years ago

Well, finally finished rebuilding the C-464 rectifier board on my Seawitch & mounted it on the board. Printed out a repro fuse label too.
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Added a .084 12-pin Molex plug between the transformer & the rectifier board to make it easier to deal with if I need to remove it later. I used the phosphor bronze connector pins, & Molex shows these good for 20A, so I'm pretty sure these are OK.
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Also printed out a repro transformer label & sanded down the nasty mounting board & shot it with some varathane. Looks a lot nicer. Rebuilt the knocker too while I was at it. The plunger was rusty - nothing a bath in evaporust wouldn't fix. Added a new sleeve too.
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Rigged up a 10-pin Molex plug for J2 to a 120V power cord & tested output voltages. First try I immediately smoked the 3A fuse.. I had a fast blow fuse in there & it was supposed to be slow blow. Replaced the fuse & all was good (so far).

Test points read:
TP1 = 9.59VDC (should be 4.6 to 6.2VDC)
TP2 = 186.2VDC (should be 203 to 257VDC)
TP3 = 14.59VDC (should be 10.to 13.3VDC)
TP4 = 7.46VAC (should be 6.4 to 8.2VAC)
TP5 = 46.1VDC (Should be 47.6 to 48.4VDC - from Clay's old guide, I think this is a misprint in range, median should be 43VDC)

TP1 & TP3 read a bit high - & TP2 looks low. Anyone have any opinions before I plug this into my game?

3 weeks later
#366 2 years ago

Finally got back to my Seawitch project. Repinned all molex connectors (male & female) & installed all boards back in machine. Test points showed correct voltages, so I went ahead & connected everything & gave it a go.

Some bulbs out, RH upper drops locked up, LH upper flipper inoperative, no sound, etc, etc.
All fixable stuff --- pics to follow

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#368 2 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

Does someone has a spare old used center drop target bank plastic? It's the only one missing from my project machine right now... I will get around to buy a full repro set at some point but in the meanwhile I would rather have something there...
I could go and mold a blank plastic and maybe get a decent scan from someone as well.

I need the same plastic too, mine is there, but broken & nasty looking!
That one must really take a beating, being centrally located.

#371 2 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Is this what you need? If you need full size I can email it. I don't know why yours is broken. I play the shit out of my Seawitch and this piece is never in danger. But I don't get any air balls with this pin, either.

What is the measurement center to center on the mounting studs? Someone relocated the posts & I can't tell which is correct.

2 weeks later
#376 2 years ago

While going thru the underside of my playfield, rebuilding flippers & what not I came across a cement type resistor on both of the upper flippers. I thought this odd, so I checked the schematic & they were not shown. They appeared factory installed, so I did some searching & found this:

On Seawitch, both upper flippers have a single 1 ohm 5 watt power resistor installed in series with the power winding of each flipper coil. Neither resistor is listed in the game's manual or schematics. It is presumed that the resistors were installed due to the upper flippers close proximity of nearby drop targets and plastics. The resistors are not necessary for proper function, and could be by-passed, but it is best to keep the resistors installed. The lack of this resistor will increase the flipper power, and more frequent breakage of drop targets or plastics may result.
Similar resistors were installed on other Stern games at this time typically on upper flippers that were close to targets.
An alternate to leaving the resistors in place (used in this application as a crude voltage reduction device; i.e. runs very hot and causes burn marks on the bottom of the playfield) is to open up the end of stroke switches instead. The flipper will flip with less power which is the intended goal.


I think I'm going to leave them as is, but may add a switch to bypass the resistors just for the hell of it.

1 month later
#378 2 years ago

Getting to the point of re-rubbering the playfield. Seawitch calls for a few 2-1/4" rings, but I don't see any suppliers offering this size. Any input here? I suppose I will have to settle for 2-1/2" -- but?

#385 2 years ago
Quoted from cdnpinballer:

Possible to post a pic of this?? I don't have these on my game.

OK, will post this evening.... hard @ work now.

#388 2 years ago
Quoted from cdnpinballer:

Possible to post a pic of this?? I don't have these on my game.

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Here are the two upper flipper resistors. I have replaced both with new correct units, one was an old original & the other had been replaced with an incorrect value. My Seawitch also had one wrong flipper coil, so I replaced both of those too.

2 weeks later
#389 2 years ago

Looking for a couple of coin mech retainers for a classic Stern.
retainer 1 (resized).JPGretainer 2 (resized).JPG

3 weeks later
#395 2 years ago
Quoted from greatwichjohn:

I just opened a new printed glass. It had a printing error, & would be a good replacement for one missing ink, etc. $99 USD, & shipping USA/Canada is $60 USD

Tempting, how fragile is that ink in the wrinkly spots?

11 months later
#427 1 year ago

Looks like someone painted the blue caps white & scratched the paint off in the hot stamped areas

4 months later
#460 10 months ago

Played my Seawitch, then headed down to Blairally in Eugene, Oregon to play their new Beatles pin (Seabeatles?) to see how it compares.

1- shooter lane much improved with a "ski jump" instead of the metal flapper, makes RH loop shots easier.
2 - Left & right loop shots are opened up a lot so you can really rip the loops.
3- Spinning wheel in center. Did not think I would like this, but it kind of makes up for the ease of shooting the loops.
4 - Addition of passageway & target behind left drop targets.. cool addition.
5 - Magnet at top of loop instead of just a rollover button- cool addition.
6 - Addition of "modes" - updates the style of play. I like it, but found myself shooting for the drop targets mostly, old Seawitch habit that's hard to break.
7- Multi-ball addition - Cool new feature.
8 - Don't know why Stern does not add bluetooth sound to this pin (or ALL of their pins), It's hard to hear what's going on. Would love to use my bluetooth headphones while playing.
9 - No real knocker? Come on Stern, if there ever was a pin that needed it, this retro SS pin does.

Anyway, had a great time playing it, would like to have one of these at home next to Seawitch.... but not at that price!

#462 9 months ago
Quoted from j_m_:

1- shooter lane much improved with a "ski jump" instead of the metal flapper, makes RH loop shots easier.
this is the one thing that I would like to see if it's possible to retrofit in my seawitch. it looks like it's 2 or 3 pieces of metal; the ski jump itself, a different outer ball guide which has the cut out that is just over the 1/2 of ball's height under the [jump] and a 2nd (upper section) of ball guide to prevent launched balls from leaving the playfield

Well, if you try it, please post pics of the process & part #'s needed. I'm all for keeping stuff original, but this would really be a great improvement. Especially if it were reversible.

2 weeks later
#491 9 months ago
Quoted from atariaction:

White titan silicone rubber might look pretty sharp!!!! I may actually consider the yellow!

I have white Titans on mine, with blue flipper rubbers. Looks great

#506 9 months ago
Quoted from atariaction:

If I powdercoat legs on my Seawitch what color would look best? White, Blue, Yellow? Neither?

Factory hammerite silver

#515 9 months ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Bookmark it, awesome resource. I have done a ton of these, they're always a pain in the ass since the wires are directly soldered and never very long. IIRC seawitch is in the bottom of the cab so it's usually a little bit easier to access and work around, you'll just have to take a few breaks to stretch your back out. Dont bother unsoldering old wires, cut them close, strip and resolder. Start on one side and work your way over to get the most out of your wire length. Sometimes clipping the zip ties can help get a little more slack

I put an appropriately amperage rated Molex connector on mine.

#519 9 months ago
Quoted from atariaction:

Well I gambled with white powder coated legs![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

To each their own

1 week later
#557 8 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

If this works well you should contact cliffy or mantis and see it they will make a kit with the guide and the ramp.

I would be in for that. My playfield is just average at best, extra holes are no big deal to me.

#569 8 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Thank you. I have managed to shoot one double loop tonight. No matter how I set it up, I don't think I will doing too many multi-loops like some of the Beatles playing guys have said they have gotten on the Beatles pin.
But it is nice to see that ball come down on a trajectory that looks like it was planned. And the only way I was able to square up the spinner is due to some space opening up with removal of the flap gate.

& you won't. The Beatles pin geometry is slightly different & more favorable to loops.

#602 8 months ago
Quoted from atariaction:

Nice. I just did 3 of my seawitch display connectors. For some reason many wires had insulation worn off just enough to expose some bare wire here and there and there was many wires with electrical tape on them covering up the exposed wire. I cut off all the frayed wires which were all near the connectors (very odd) and tidied that all up. I will have to post a pic. There are so many wires in the head with electrical tape covering up minor insulation wear. Like maybe 40 wires.
What would cause this?


3 months later
#664 5 months ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Got tired of waiting for someone to make me something clear and plasticky, so I made this with the wire bendy kit from Marco's. It was a pain. I'll report back on whether or not it works. Hoping replacing the drop targets in the 4 bank might help as well but I can't find the damned "s" stickers I ordered a billion years ago >
[quoted image]

You would be better off finding a set of original stern drops. The repros don't seem to work as well.

#680 5 months ago

Never had that issue on my Seawitch

#682 5 months ago

New from PBR - though I have had issue with them not always staying up when resetting. They seem to be made of a little softer material than the OEM units.

1 week later
#693 4 months ago
Quoted from Spyder138:

New member of the club. #2433 was picked up over the weekend.[quoted image][quoted image]

Ugh, pull those LED's out & get incandescent bulbs in there

#698 4 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

What I have noticed about LEDs is that they are not photogenic. A couple of my pins look great with LEDs but if I posted pics here everybody would have fit.

True, but the abrupt on/off of LED's is what turns me off to them. For the older games, I prefer the incandescent bulbs.
The subtle fade in & out just looks right. I don't feel that heat is an issue in a home use game.

But to each their own, LED's are not a permanent hack.

#700 4 months ago
Quoted from Spyder138:

The photo definitely looks more blue than it does in person. I actually really like the blue displays and the lower voltage use. I will leave the blue LEDs on the play field for now and then figure out if I want to swap everything over to LED (blue and/or white), go back to incandescent, or leave as is with a mix of both. I am just stoked to finally own the machine.

On my Seawitch, I used all incandescent bulbs, but used blue "condoms" on parts of the upper playfield as the plain 47's that peeked out under the plastics were too bright.


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