Quoted from cottonm4:

Rusty ball from no action. That pin has not been played for a long time.

Quoted from SDTMinSTL:

I'm playing and tweaking! New member of the club finally. It's a game that I have chased for some time now. Fabbed a Lexan bracket to prevent the glass/plastic jam and it turned out great. Now to clean, touch up and make her all she can be. Snuck some games in and had a blast.

Quoted from cottonm4:

Go to your local paint retailer and start grabbing paint color chips and match your blues that way. Rustoleum spray cans has both the dark blue and light blue that is a pretty good colors match.

Quoted from SDTMinSTL:

It is discussed here with a couple of options. http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Stern_Seawitch
Plexi (Lexan) shaped with a torch, a few brackets, 6x32 machine screws and some nylon lock nuts and I am thrilled. [quoted image]

Quoted from Completist:

When i colour matched my F2K cab i removed the side rails to reveal the true base colour as opposed to matching the faded paint. I just wheeled the cab in the store and had them match with their fancy machine. Was kinda funny but we fot a perfect match lol

Quoted from SDTMinSTL:

Thanks. That was the previous owners doing. I am still trying to decide if I want to keep them or go back to original.

Quoted from Spraynard:

Amazing outlane save on Seawitch by Jason Werdrick at INDISC
https://clips.twitch.tv/DependableRacyMangetoutDatSheffy

Quoted from Tyamry:

I'm in... can't wait to get it set up![quoted image]

Quoted from cottonm4:

Once I get the loop guide part number from Stern (and I will) there would be no point to involve Mantis or Cliffy. They would both need a Stern part to measure from and use as a pattern.
The only reason to involve these two is if Stern will not sell the parts. I just bought the ramp so I'm thinking Stern likes taking in the money. For right now, anyway.

Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

Yup. I’ve got more of those kits than I can count at this point. Good stuff

Quoted from cottonm4:

Thank you. I have managed to shoot one double loop tonight. No matter how I set it up, I don't think I will doing too many multi-loops like some of the Beatles playing guys have said they have gotten on the Beatles pin.
But it is nice to see that ball come down on a trajectory that looks like it was planned. And the only way I was able to square up the spinner is due to some space opening up with removal of the flap gate.

Quoted from cottonm4:

My contact at Stern has given me the part numbers.
The number for the guide in gray color is 535-1888-01. This for sure is the one you will need, unless you cobble something together as I have done.
The second part number, for the guide in green in the pic is 535-1888-07. We need to talk about this one.



So, to get all of the part numbers in on place:
1) shooter lane ball ramp........................535-1888-04. Known internally as Guide #4
2) ball loop guide...................................535-1888-01 I would assume this is Guide #1
3) skill shot gate bracket.........................535-1488-00
4) skill shot gate wire..............................535-1536-00
5) 535-1888-07 (I don't know what it is called. The green one, I guess). Even with my shooter mods I am going to need to make an upper guide as the ball will launch onto the plastic sometimes. So, I need something. But I am not sure this guide will fit under Seawitch's short play field glass without some sort of modification of cutting some material off of the top . I know I can make an effective guide for less than $10.00 and I will probably go with that.
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If anyone decides to make this mod to their Seawitch they are going to need this upper ball guide or make one of their own.
Also, my little ball guide, that I made for around $10.00, seems to be working well so I will probably not be buying the loop guide. Since the ramp cost me $39.00 shipped I am guessing the ball loop guide will cost every bit of that. That's a lot of money for something that is probably not going to enhance game play very much, if any at all.
I'm not sorry I spent the money. I like fabricating things and fooling around. But to tell anyone that this is a must-have mod would be a lie. So far, I have managed to hit 4 or 5 double loop shots and I can not see much improvement when compared to the factory flap gate. But it looks cleaner, IMO.
The one big benefit from this exercise is that I was able to square up my spinner for better alignment with the lower left flipper trajectory. I never had noticed that the spinner was sitting off-angle to the flipper. And the reason it was located this way was to work around the flap gate mounting angle and its two attachment screws.
I have tell you, I never was impressed with the spinner on my Seawitch. It just never could gain momentum and get any kind of ripping action. I did nothing but square it up and I have been getting some decent spinner action.
I highly recommend that everybody try to square up their spinner. All you have to do is move the post forward a little bit and drill one new (worthwhile) hole. You will need to mod the post to allow it to fit over one the flap gate's bracket screws. And that screw will be hidden.
Good Luck.

Quoted from cottonm4:

My Big Game, Seawitch, and Dragonfist spinners are mounted on tall posts. My Catacomb is mounted on short posts. I had not noticed this. I am going to swap it to tall posts which is the opposite of what you just did with your Seawitch. The reason I want tall posts is that the ball only needs to make very small contact with the spinner to make it spin. If you leave yours on those short posts more of the lower area of your spinner is going to lose paint because of your now larger ball contact area. I'll have to get you pics of my worn out Catacomb spinner so can see.
The forward angle on your Witch spinner that you are speaking of is a problem I also have with my Seawitch and some times it can disturb the hit. That angle crap happened after I made some adjustments to the spinner wires. All I/you need to fix that is moved the spinner switch back on the underside of the play field, fill the old holes with dowel rod and drill two new holes. I have my spinner balanced and spinning well and I do not want to jeopardize that by trying to adjust the angle out of it with the wires. I will be moving my switch backwards shortly; It is on my to-do list.
EDIT: just to be sure, the angle I was speaking of in my post about that, is the angle of the spinner cage and not the spinner itself.

Quoted from Chalkey:

Your spinners arms have likely been bent slightly back by constant abuse. Look at it from above and make sure it is a straight plane through the middle. It'll hang correctly afterwards. Make sure all the angles on the wires are very uniform for max spinnage.

Quoted from Mitch:

Spinner should always be adjusted at the arms on the spinner never by tension of the rod.
You should be able to remove the rod and still have the spinner sitting at any angle you want just with arm adjustments.

Quoted from Mitch:

Call me tommorow if you want. ( later today)

Quoted from cottonm4:

The weather reporters around here talk like the disaster-ly cold we are having stops at the border. I'm figuring at 4am you are adding another log to the fire.

Quoted from Chalkey:

It's just physics, it will hang straight if you get it aligned properly. Putting one arm at an angle and trying to pull down on it with your switch is only going to reduce your spintential but it seems you're not liking the flavor of my kool-aid anyways so I'll drop it.

Quoted from Arcade:

Got all my connectors repinned yesterday.
Went fairly quickly [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from cottonm4:

I think dasvis is correct. Mice. Eating the insulation but leaving the wire alone.
I trick I learned recently for striped wiring: Acrylic paint and a small paint brush. Say you to need a white wire with orange stripes. Get the correct white wire and some orange acrylic paint and make your own striped wire. Cut the bad out, solder in the new, shrink wrap it.

Quoted from Arcade:

What are these two middle post supposed to look like?
I can’t get a nut to fit on either one of mine so they just flop about loose under the plastic right now.
I assume my setup is not factory.
So any part numbers I may need for new post screws if needed are appreciated.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

And rails are now available. Taylor made a template from my set. He can make them to order now.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Arcade:

Finally stopped my ball jams over the left Flipper using a part on hand.
I had an old comet populated playfield that I use for parts and it just happend to have this nice metal part that was used to prevent ball jams under the plastic ramp. Works nicely to guide any errant fly balls right back down to the Seawitch playfield.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]