Just got a Seawitch that I am working on.
I have an issue with gameplay when the ball is hit around the left orbit.
When the ball gets to the thin metal flap, it will bow it inward and it flexes back out, effectively forcing the ball away from the upper right flipper.
This makes it impossible to do multiple orbit shots.
I saw someone mention above that Cliffy may have a replacement flap. Might it be a bit stiffer to allow a smoother ball trajectory?
Or is there some other fix for this problem?

Thanks for the links.
Not a fan of either of those solutions though.
Hopefully the Beetles retrofit will somehow work out for us.

Just received my new power distribution board for Seawitch today.
The last game I changed one of these on was a Bally KISS and it came with very good instructions for the wire colors and where they were to go.
This time the board came with no instructions.
Has someone here already done this fun task and have any tips for how to make it easier.
I have searched for an online link for Classic Stern power board instructions but have come up empty.
Even just a photo of the back side of someones replacement board would help.

Wow.
Thanks guys.
Both excellent advice.

Removed power supply and am labeling my wires with tape.
Already an issue on the first wire
E1 in the photo lists as Red large gauge and E3 lists as red small gauge.
Problem is both of my red wires are large gauge but one has yellow stripes.
If I had to guess, I would guess solid red would go to E1 and red/yellow would go to E3. But can’t be to cautious so posting here first.
Edit solved.
Just looked in my old board and the above is correct.

Good thing I cut my wires so I could see the old locations because tons of wire colors and sizes do not match the photo in the link.
Here are my wire colors and locations to help someone else down the line here.
E1 Red
E2 Yellow
E3 Red/yellow
E4 White/Red
E5 Green
E6 Orange/White
E7 Blue
E8 Black
E9 Orange
E10 Green/Black
E11 White
E12 White/Blue

The power distribution board swap out was a success. But despite having a replacement MPU, light board and power distribution board the game will still randomly decide to reset itself no matter if you are playing a game or just sitting in attract mode.
WTH?
No rhyme or reason to when it will decide to reset.

I have not repinned the connectors on the power distribution board yet.
That is next in my list.
About 3 of the molex holes are pretty dark.

And here is a nice before and after photo of the power board swap out today.
I took the board out and sanded it down so it looks like new now.

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Thanks.
I got the new connectors in with the board and totally forgot about them. Lol
I just tossed them off to the side and forgot I even had them.

Yes
There was no way to put the heat sink on this new power board.l

I am interested in a glass.
I will be at TPF as well

Gotcha.

Ed is a friend of mine.
This is not how he operates.
Sounded a little shady but you never know.
I am still interested in a glass if you have some at the show.

Thanks for clarifying.
I have no problem buying from the drawing winner. Lol

Getting ready to re-pin the three connectors on the power board.
Big Daddy sent me two different bags of pins with the molex connectors.
What is the difference? And which ones should I use?
There is a BT and an AT bag.

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Awesome news. Can’t wait to see the finished product in action.
Will this be doable by everyone if correct ball guide is provided by someone?

The BT May have a slightly larger gap in the back but hard to tell.
I can’t find a difference in AT & BT by searching.

Same here.
I added spinners to my brand new Metallica Pro. That was a bit scary to drill.
I would have no problem with two tiny shooter lane holes in my crappy Seawitch Playfield to vastly improve gameplay.

Got all my connectors repinned yesterday.
Went fairly quickly

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What are these two middle post supposed to look like?
I can’t get a nut to fit on either one of mine so they just flop about loose under the plastic right now.
I assume my setup is not factory.
So any part numbers I may need for new post screws if needed are appreciated.

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Thanks. Got it fixed.
The two posts are nice and tight now.
Someone had just put hand cut machine screw shafts in the holes in my game.
I fully expected to remove T-nuts under the playfield but they were just screwed into the holes from the top. Very weird.
Anyway all good and stock now.
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Next question.
My Flipper button leaf switches are shot.
What is a good plug and play part number on these?

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Did not even notice. When I ordered them I just requested Blue posts for Seawitch and that is what was sent to me. lol
Oh well, they work and look great.

Thanks for the part #

Interesting read. $9.00 a switch is pretty expensive for simple switches.
So I can see where making your own if skilled enough could be cheaper.

Where does one get one of these?
Still available?

Anyone have a paint code mix number or general paint color name for the blue frame around the backglass?

Finally stopped my ball jams over the left Flipper using a part on hand.
I had an old comet populated playfield that I use for parts and it just happend to have this nice metal part that was used to prevent ball jams under the plastic ramp. Works nicely to guide any errant fly balls right back down to the Seawitch playfield.

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In case this helps anyone else I went to Lowe’s to find the best match paint I could for whatever color my head around the backglass had faded to. For me it is the color on the top of the photo on Sherwin Williams card #233A “Oceanside Blue”
I know the true color will never show in a photo but here is the card anyway.

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Cool find on the Ali cabinet.
I did just repaint the inside of mine.
Looks so much better now.
Now I need to see about toning down my Flipper power a bit.
Both of my lower flippers are way to strong and I know something will break if I leave them alone.
What coil should be on the lower flippers?
Maybe someone used what they had.
If they turn out to be correct is there a way to soften them with the end of stroke switch maybe?

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I played a couple of games on this game at TPF.
Nicely done sir.
Game played very well.
What I did like the most is the use of a regular skinny flipper bat for the upper right. Gives a much better shot at a spinner rip.
By playing your game I also now know that my flipper strength is way to hard for this game. Yours did not seem like it will snap any drops but played well.
I also picked up a reproduction backglass from GreatJohn at the show.
Does anyone know the size of metal lift trim I need for it and the best place to order if available?

Thanks. Was worried they were for only Bally williams but then I read where he will do custom lengths if needed.
Looks like the new glass is 1/8" but I will double check when I get home.
Thanks for the reply.

Finally had time to see what flipper coils someone had put on my game. Both of them as I suspected were incorrect.
New ones on order already from Pinball Life.
My left coil is a J-25-500/34-5050
Right coil is a A-24-570/34-3600

Got both new flipper coils in the mail today.
Installed left one perfectly. Works great.

But of course the pinball gods must throw a monkey wrench in to make things fun.
When I took photos of the right coil wiring so I could carefully label them, I failed to notice that the previous owner had put the coil in the bracket upside down so that the lugs were at the coil stop end. Arrrrgh.

So naturally when I put the new coil in place I put it in correctly without thinking. This flips lugs 1 and 3 to the opposite sides.
I fired the game up, tested left flipper, perfect.
Tested right flipper and immediately blew the F4 fuse on the power distribution board. Again Arrrrrgh.
Ran out of time to flip the coil over and re-wire so I will have to do that tomorrow.
Any chance I blew the diodes on the new coil as well, or should I be good to go just turning it around?

Luckily nothing bad happened but the fuse blowing.
Got the wires swapped out on lugs 1 and 3 and we are good to go.

And back to bad on my right Flipper.
It worked great for one game then suddenly started getting weaker and weaker until it won’t flip it or the upper right Flipper anymore.
What the hell?
If I tap the right Flipper button very fast it will try to flip but if I press it normal or hold it in, nothing.
I should have just left well enough alone.
Now I have gone from working game to not working game.
I have cleaned all contacts on button and end of strike, made sure they are still adjusted correctly but nothing helps.

Turns out my problem with the right Flipper was that the Flipper button leaf switch was toast. New switch installed and we are flipping good again.

I was curious while looking at my drop target coils. Are they supposed to have a return spring like the flippers or do they just use gravity to pull the bar back down?

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Funny. I have always called them lightning bolt targets. Had no idea those were supposed to be S’s

Lol.
They are calling them S stand ups on the sale sights so I will roll with it.

While I agree the photo is a bit to blue use what you like.
I use Comet white sunlight and the game looks great with none of the heat on my backglass and plastics.

This is most certainly true.