Boom...

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Looking good!

OoooH , That's nice.

Jjsmooth
the blue flipper rubbers were a nice touch. who's are you using?

Titan.
Using ice blue LEDs, added ice blue tape under apron.
I have a few more bulb sockets to replace, and get my displays straightened out, but I'm liking..

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My first machine! I'm in love!

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Great start!

Joined the club a couple weeks ago. It's rough but it came with a new backglass and plastic set (unused, still in box) and a prepaid place in line for a new playfield. I'm super stoked!

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Watching the Stern Circuit Finals and I'm over the moon to see a Seawitch in the lineup!!! You don't get to see it in major competition all that often; this is great!Eric Stone vs Escher Lefkoff in a playoff on Seawitch

Any one got a spare left hand slingshot plastic? Mine is broken with a chunk missing. ( Thats how I bought it) The rest of the plastics are great which is why I don't want to buy a whole plastics set just for 1 slingshot. You will need to send it to me in New Zealand ( just in an envelope between 2 cardboard strips is fine)
I am happy to pay costs.
Regards
Clive

Thanks for the picture. It helped me find the link.

Seawitch starts at 8:52.

Thanks for getting the timestamp!

Seawitch actually shows up in a few games throughout the event; it shows up in a tiebreaker and one if the final three games, as well as in a few regular groups. I don't know if I have time to go through and pick out all the timestamps, but that would certainly be cool! Need to properly watch the vid anyway.

This is a Stern vid. Showing Freefall, Meteor, Catacomb, Seawitch and Galaxy.

There is also Batman 66 and Robocop.

Seawitch first comes at time stamp 4:15.

You are correct about watching. To properly see it you just have to kick back and plan on watching for awhile.

Hello everyone. Just wanted to throw my hat in the ring if anyone is looking to sell their 'Witch. No drama, no feet dragging, just cash for your machine right away if anyone decides to move on. I am just a collector who is looking to join the ranks of ownership.

Jason

PS Big thanks to cottonm4 who has tried to point me in the right direction a couple of times and has been super helpful. I'm still trying.

Like many, I am waiting for on of John's play fields. My play field has its share of battle scars, especially where it is worn to the wood on the yellow light run.

I made my first order for LEDs for another pin and liked the ice blue lights some of you have put on so I thought I would give them a try. The picture does not do these LEDs justice. They make it look like a different pinball machine. Sort of like putting lipstick on a pig.

Shoot, I guess I could put up a For Sale ad: Seawitch. Plays great. Has LEDs. You should see what these are selling for on Ebay. You can have this one for $4,000.00 ! Did I say it has LEDs. It has LEDs

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Finally joined the club. I have wanted one of these babies for some time. I am excited to get everything sorted out. I also got his spot in line for the repop playfield so that's good since this one is hammered! Am I right in not finding a playfield protector for Seawitch?!? Seems there should be one but I cant find it on the list? I look forward to reading through this thread and gleaning some good knowledge as this is my first old Stern game.
Thanks,
-Jim
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I haven’t had any luck finding playfield protectors. Not sure they exist.

Finally starting my shop out of a seawitch I bought last year. I just realized that mine has white pop bumper caps. Anyone know what the story is behind this? I’ve only seen blue before.

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You will need to make your own protector. .020 polycarbonate works well.

Sounds like a PITA. Would much rather buy a pre -measured and precision cut product.

It is not hard to make. It takes a little time and some tools.

that's interesting, especially considering that they are hot stamped as well with the outer ringed ribbing. prototype caps (or possibly homemade?

That’s what I’m wondering. Dracula is the only other pin I know with the scull on the caps, but the outer ring doesn’t have the lines like these do. Could possibly be home made, though no idea why someone would go through the trouble.

Well, it's your pin to view in the flesh, but when I enlarge the pic it looks to me like someone went the DYI homemade route. The hot stamp lines are sloppy and uneven. The sculls look like they were drawn with a sharpie.

Looks like someone painted the blue caps white & scratched the paint off in the hot stamped areas

Just played Seawitch for the first time. They now have it at Walt's Bar near Pasadena

Great art. Pretty fast-moving for its age. It had a greater tendency of the ball hitting the glass than any other game I have tried, maybe the owner needs to adjust the angle a bit or something. Great fun though.

Yep mystery solved. When I took the pop bumper caps off, they were blue on the underside. So the painted it white then filled in the hot stamp lines with a new color. New caps from Marco are on the way!

Seawitch spotted in the Deadpool release video!

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Just spotted this myself - looks almost a widebody. Nice touch!

Two questions... Does anyplace have proper Seawitch pop caps with the stamping around the edges, and is it possible to make that right alley shot with a normal stern flipper bat in place? Mine has a williams bat right now and I want to go original but I'm afraid I'll never hit it again.

Oh I thought of a third question is there any way to reduce the amount of airballs? I swear the playfield glass is going to break sooner or later. The ball is also jumping up onto the left side plastic and going down to the outlane. This game is still just so damned good.

Marco has pop bumper caps. I don’t think the proper ones have stamping around the edges.

Make sure you drop targets are flush with playfield. This drastically cut down on air balls for me.

This is a proper Witch pop cap.

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Steve Young at Pinball Resource makes the pop bumper caps that Marco’s sells. I asked Steve about making proper Seawitch and Star Gazer caps with the hit kind stamping. He said it would require a special die with s $400 set up fee for the die. I offered to pay the setup fee for Star Gazer caps and buy a large lot if he gave me the exclusive on them. He refused. You should be able to find someone who can make labels for that lower ledge that should be hit stamped

In another forum a Pinsider said that he made correct tombstone drop targets and is selling them. The ones that Marco’s and Arcade Classics sells (on EBay) are made by Steve Young and are from The original die from the 70s/80s. He die has broken down and has resulted in these badly formed drop targets. Several people over the years on Pinside and klov have pointed this out and asked a Steve to order a new die. Some people have offered to pay for the die or guarantee a minimum number of sales, but Steve still refuses to buy a new die.

You’re better off either; printing labels for your existing drops or coughing up the extra money to buy the newer generation drops. Tomorrow Ill find the forum where this was discussed, including the new sellers contact info

Boy, Steve is one stubborn fellow!

TIL!

So I was expecting there to be an adjustment bar like in the bally drop target mechs. How do you adjust the height on these drops? All my middle targets are about 1/8" above the playfield and when down are resting on the reset bar.

No oblong holes for adjustment:

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Seawitch fans! I lost the keys to my machine...sad day. Not excited about drilling the locks. I assume these are universal? Any chance of getting a copy? I will pay all expenses!!

They are not universal.

They would be replaced every time the machine was sold to a new operator, so there could be anything on earth installed in there...

Post a pic of the lock face and **maybe** someone has the matching #.

But new locks are only $3 anyway.....

I just bought these from Marco's recently. The 7/8" is for the coin door and is pretty standard. The 1-1/8" (for the head lock) contains several parts, including the spacer that you need to install to the left of the lock bar. You can buy the same type locks from any of the pinball sites. IF you drill the locks use an impact driver drill, not a regular drill. Drills take way too much time.

Lock and cam - 7/8 inch keyed-alike LKA78
Lock and cam - 1-1/8 inch keyed-alike LKA118

Oh, that's a huge bummer. There aren't any numbers or other identifying marks on the lock :-/. I really wish I could figure out just WHAT I did with the keys, but I'm sure I put them somewhere very, very safe.....4 years and two moves ago. Sigh.

Thanks bluespin for the item numbers!

You could buy a lockpick kit on Amazon. Pinsiders have been about 50% successful using a lock pick

A spare key for the backbox is usually just inside the coin door, or near the plumb bob on a wire hook ; so you might wait until you have opened the coin door before worrying about the backbox.

Checked--nope. But I do see the little hook where that would go.

bluespin I love it. Get the head open AND learn lockpick skills. Awsome.

So you have the game open?

I have the coin door open. I do not have the head open. Different keys. On (stupidly) different key rings.

When drilling metal use a little oil on your bit and drill slowly!

It will drill out in 2 seconds (the cylinder is soft brass).

=
=

But if you are absolutely afraid to drill:

1. Take a big standard screwdriver with a square shank

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2. Tap it into the keyslot with a single hammer tap

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3. Then using a Crescent wrench, turn the screwdriver shaft about 1/8" clockwise

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The lock will be popped.