(Topic ID: 61134)

Official Seawitch Fan Club ... All Welcome


By DirtySouth

6 years ago



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  • 799 posts
  • 113 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 days ago by razorsedge
  • Topic is favorited by 39 Pinsiders

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There are 799 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 16.
#351 2 years ago

Well, my Seawitch is coming along. Replaced all male headers on all of the boards, recapped sound board & solenoid driver, installed NVRAM, & re-pinned all plugs. Good thing I did the plugs, as I found this ...
IMG_0520 (Medium) (2) (resized).JPG

Decided to give rebuilding my rectifier board a try & I think it turned out ok.
IMG_2838 (Medium) (resized).JPGIMG_2839 (Medium) (resized).JPGIMG_2840 (Medium) (resized).JPG

IMG_2842 (Medium) (resized).JPG

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Cleaning up inside of head, replacing drilled out lock, putting in new board standoffs to replace the old brittle ones, clean ground contact areas, & replace several missing board mounting screws (grounds!).

Once this is complete I need to solder the wires to the back of the rectifier board & test my output voltages. If they look good then I will plug it all together & see where I stand.

IMG_2843 (Medium) (resized).JPG

#352 2 years ago

when soldering the wires directly to the rectifier board, there are some eyelets that you can purchase (they crimp onto the wire and provide a strain relief for the actual soldered connection). I can't remember the exact name, but I think they are still sitting on my creech, so I'll check when I get home. I think that I purchased them from either digi-key or mouser.

#353 2 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

when soldering the wires directly to the rectifier board, there are some eyelets that you can purchase (they crimp onto the wire and provide a strain relief for the actual soldered connection). I can't remember the exact name, but I think they are still sitting on my creech, so I'll check when I get home. I think that I purchased them from either digi-key or mouser.

Yes, I would be interested in seeing what those are.

#354 2 years ago

A104001CT-ND (resized).jpg

Terminals - Wire to Board Connectors -- A104001CT-ND
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/3-770565-2/A104001CT-ND/2816399

#355 2 years ago

Well, on vacation in San Francisco and visited the Pacific pinball museum. Finally got to play a Stern Seawitch! I must say I was impressed, play was fast and fun. The pin needed a little TLC, but I got a good feel for how it plays. Can't wait to get finish the restoration on mine.

#356 2 years ago

I just picked up this beauty and I am bringing it home now. I can't wait to restore it, including a greatwichjohn playfield and backglass.

IMG_0019 (resized).JPG

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#357 2 years ago

anyone here would have a lead or an idea on how to replace a broken slingshot arm kicker? :s

#358 2 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

anyone here would have a lead or an idea on how to replace a broken slingshot arm kicker? :s

Your best bet is to locate a used replacement from EBay or someone selling used Stern parts.

#359 2 years ago
Quoted from bluespin:

I just picked up this beauty and I am bringing it home now. I can't wait to restore it, including a greatwichjohn playfield and backglass.

OK. Good. You got it. Your coin door looks pretty clean. Show some pics of the playfield. And I hope Atlanta I-285 traffic is not too bad for you on Monday morning.

#360 2 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

anyone here would have a lead or an idea on how to replace a broken slingshot arm kicker? :s

Pinsiders too-many-pins and ibuypinballs both sell parts.

#361 2 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

anyone here would have a lead or an idea on how to replace a broken slingshot arm kicker? :s

Weld it.

#362 2 years ago

Well, finally finished rebuilding the C-464 rectifier board on my Seawitch & mounted it on the board. Printed out a repro fuse label too.
IMG_0800 (Medium) (resized).JPG

Added a .084 12-pin Molex plug between the transformer & the rectifier board to make it easier to deal with if I need to remove it later. I used the phosphor bronze connector pins, & Molex shows these good for 20A, so I'm pretty sure these are OK.
IMG_0801 (Medium) (resized).JPG

Also printed out a repro transformer label & sanded down the nasty mounting board & shot it with some varathane. Looks a lot nicer. Rebuilt the knocker too while I was at it. The plunger was rusty - nothing a bath in evaporust wouldn't fix. Added a new sleeve too.
IMG_0802 (Medium) (resized).JPG

Rigged up a 10-pin Molex plug for J2 to a 120V power cord & tested output voltages. First try I immediately smoked the 3A fuse.. I had a fast blow fuse in there & it was supposed to be slow blow. Replaced the fuse & all was good (so far).

Test points read:
TP1 = 9.59VDC (should be 4.6 to 6.2VDC)
TP2 = 186.2VDC (should be 203 to 257VDC)
TP3 = 14.59VDC (should be 10.to 13.3VDC)
TP4 = 7.46VAC (should be 6.4 to 8.2VAC)
TP5 = 46.1VDC (Should be 47.6 to 48.4VDC - from Clay's old guide, I think this is a misprint in range, median should be 43VDC)

TP1 & TP3 read a bit high - & TP2 looks low. Anyone have any opinions before I plug this into my game?

#363 2 years ago

very nice

#364 2 years ago
Quoted from dasvis:

Well, finally finished rebuilding the C-464 rectifier board on my Seawitch & mounted it on the board. Printed out a repro fuse label too.

Also printed out a repro transformer label & sanded down the nasty mounting board & shot it with some varathane. Looks a lot nicer.

Where do you find these repro labels, please?

3 weeks later
#366 2 years ago

Finally got back to my Seawitch project. Repinned all molex connectors (male & female) & installed all boards back in machine. Test points showed correct voltages, so I went ahead & connected everything & gave it a go.

IT"S ALIVE!!!
Some bulbs out, RH upper drops locked up, LH upper flipper inoperative, no sound, etc, etc.
All fixable stuff --- pics to follow

IMG_0944 (Medium) (resized).JPG

#367 2 years ago

Does someone has a spare old used center drop target bank plastic? It's the only one missing from my project machine right now... I will get around to buy a full repro set at some point but in the meanwhile I would rather have something there...

I could go and mold a blank plastic and maybe get a decent scan from someone as well.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-guide-to-making-your-own-reproduction-plastics

#368 2 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

Does someone has a spare old used center drop target bank plastic? It's the only one missing from my project machine right now... I will get around to buy a full repro set at some point but in the meanwhile I would rather have something there...
I could go and mold a blank plastic and maybe get a decent scan from someone as well.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-guide-to-making-your-own-reproduction-plastics

I need the same plastic too, mine is there, but broken & nasty looking!
That one must really take a beating, being centrally located.

#369 2 years ago

I would take a HQ scan from the plastic from someone in the meanwhile if anyone could get around to do it?

#370 2 years ago
Quoted from dasvis:

I need the same plastic too, mine is there, but broken & nasty looking!
That one must really take a beating, being centrally located.

Is this what you need? If you need full size I can email it. I don't know why yours is broken. I play the shit out of my Seawitch and this piece is never in danger. But I don't get any air balls with this pin, either.

Seawitch07052017 (resized).jpg

#371 2 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Is this what you need? If you need full size I can email it. I don't know why yours is broken. I play the shit out of my Seawitch and this piece is never in danger. But I don't get any air balls with this pin, either.

What is the measurement center to center on the mounting studs? Someone relocated the posts & I can't tell which is correct.

#372 2 years ago
Quoted from dasvis:

What is the measurement center to center on the mounting studs? Someone relocated the posts & I can't tell which is correct.

Center to center on the two outboard studs is 4.0". The two inboard posts are just screw heads.

#373 2 years ago

not great but it will do better than nothing until I decide to pay for a replacement plastic set

Thanks for the scan!

WP_20170511_15_49_09_Pro (resized).jpgWP_20170511_15_49_00_Pro (resized).jpg

#374 2 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

not great but it will do better than nothing until I decide to pay for a replacement plastic set
Thanks for the scan!

It looks OK to me. Would you please tell us your steps for taking a .jpg scan of this plastic and tuning it into something that can be used of a pin?

#375 2 years ago

I went the easy way, just printed out the scan I got fro.a user here with my work floor printer. Used some crystal clear packing tape to stick to the back of some Lexan I cut then dremeled cornered. Good enough for now

1 week later
#376 2 years ago

While going thru the underside of my playfield, rebuilding flippers & what not I came across a cement type resistor on both of the upper flippers. I thought this odd, so I checked the schematic & they were not shown. They appeared factory installed, so I did some searching & found this:

On Seawitch, both upper flippers have a single 1 ohm 5 watt power resistor installed in series with the power winding of each flipper coil. Neither resistor is listed in the game's manual or schematics. It is presumed that the resistors were installed due to the upper flippers close proximity of nearby drop targets and plastics. The resistors are not necessary for proper function, and could be by-passed, but it is best to keep the resistors installed. The lack of this resistor will increase the flipper power, and more frequent breakage of drop targets or plastics may result.
Similar resistors were installed on other Stern games at this time typically on upper flippers that were close to targets.
An alternate to leaving the resistors in place (used in this application as a crude voltage reduction device; i.e. runs very hot and causes burn marks on the bottom of the playfield) is to open up the end of stroke switches instead. The flipper will flip with less power which is the intended goal.

---------------------------------------

I think I'm going to leave them as is, but may add a switch to bypass the resistors just for the hell of it.

#377 2 years ago

Yes, keep the resistors in place or adjust the EOS switch to open earlier to reduce power.

1 month later
#378 2 years ago

Getting to the point of re-rubbering the playfield. Seawitch calls for a few 2-1/4" rings, but I don't see any suppliers offering this size. Any input here? I suppose I will have to settle for 2-1/2" -- but?

#379 2 years ago

I'm in the process of restoring mine. Waiting on pf being painted and backglass from BGResto.

IMG_20170526_113144229 (resized).jpg

#380 2 years ago

I'm another source of glass: Seawitch, Star Gazer, Nine Ball, Catacomb, Lightning, & Iron Maiden. Please contact me here, my website is changing soon. I don't have access to webmail at greatpinball.com

#381 2 years ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

I'm in the process of restoring mine. Waiting on pf being painted and backglass from BGResto.

I would order a Seawitch backglass from greatwichjohn, and he probably has this in stock. I would order backglasses from manufacturers and retailers that have them on stock, like Greatwichjohn, and only order from bgresto if no one else stocks it or makes it. Bgresto backlog can be six months at times so adding a backglass like Seawitch to his list just makes everyone else wait even longer for their backglasses that no one else will make.

#382 2 years ago

Of even greater importance, greatwichjohn provides a true silk screened product with proper masking. I have several of his back glasses (maybe even all). They are hands down the best repros from any provider (although Webb is just as good).

#383 2 years ago

Actually my printer does flatbed uv inkjet production. 2 hits color, 2 hits white, & 1 hit of gray blocking. Same printer does the same on new playfields, Star Gazer, & next month Seawitch. 2 hits white, & 2 hits color.

#384 2 years ago
Quoted from dasvis:

While going thru the underside of my playfield, rebuilding flippers & what not I came across a cement type resistor on both of the upper flippers. I thought this odd, so I checked the schematic & they were not shown. They appeared factory installed, so I did some searching & found this:
On Seawitch, both upper flippers have a single 1 ohm 5 watt power resistor installed in series with the power winding of each flipper coil. Neither resistor is listed in the game's manual or schematics. It is presumed that the resistors were installed due to the upper flippers close proximity of nearby drop targets and plastics. The resistors are not necessary for proper function, and could be by-passed, but it is best to keep the resistors installed. The lack of this resistor will increase the flipper power, and more frequent breakage of drop targets or plastics may result.
Similar resistors were installed on other Stern games at this time typically on upper flippers that were close to targets.
An alternate to leaving the resistors in place (used in this application as a crude voltage reduction device; i.e. runs very hot and causes burn marks on the bottom of the playfield) is to open up the end of stroke switches instead. The flipper will flip with less power which is the intended goal.
---------------------------------------
I think I'm going to leave them as is, but may add a switch to bypass the resistors just for the hell of it.

Possible to post a pic of this?? I don't have these on my game.

#385 2 years ago
Quoted from cdnpinballer:

Possible to post a pic of this?? I don't have these on my game.

OK, will post this evening.... hard @ work now.

#386 2 years ago

thanks, me too! LOL

#387 2 years ago
Quoted from dasvis:

Getting to the point of re-rubbering the playfield. Seawitch calls for a few 2-1/4" rings, but I don't see any suppliers offering this size.

My memory might be off, but aren't the slings 2-3/4"? You can get them from PBR...
http://www.pbresource.com/Rubberprc.html

#388 2 years ago
Quoted from cdnpinballer:

Possible to post a pic of this?? I don't have these on my game.

IMG_2915 (Medium) (resized).JPGIMG_2914 (Medium) (resized).JPG

Here are the two upper flipper resistors. I have replaced both with new correct units, one was an old original & the other had been replaced with an incorrect value. My Seawitch also had one wrong flipper coil, so I replaced both of those too.

2 weeks later
#389 2 years ago

Looking for a couple of coin mech retainers for a classic Stern.
retainer 1 (resized).JPGretainer 2 (resized).JPG

#390 2 years ago

Could anybody tell me what the placement of the wires is on the lower left drop target bank?
I've got:

yellow-red
Orange
White-brown
Brown-yellow

Game was missing the drop bank when I got it so I don't know which is top middle bottom or the common amongst them. Also is there anywhere to find a switch matrix diagram for these older bally/sterns?

#391 2 years ago
Quoted from Venom_249:

Also is there anywhere to find a switch matrix diagram for these older bally/sterns?

The manual and schematics are both freely available at the internet pinball database. They're both in the documentation section:

http://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=Seawitch&sortby=name&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick#2089

#392 2 years ago
Quoted from Venom_249:

Could anybody tell me what the placement of the wires is on the lower left drop target bank?
I've got:
yellow-red
Orange
White-brown
Brown-yellow
Game was missing the drop bank when I got it so I don't know which is top middle bottom or the common amongst them. Also is there anywhere to find a switch matrix diagram for these older bally/sterns?

Yellow-red is common
White-brown is #1
Brown-yellow is #2
Orange is # 3

#393 2 years ago

Awesome thanks guys!

2 weeks later
#394 2 years ago

I just opened a new printed glass. It had a printing error, & would be a good replacement for one missing ink, etc. $99 USD, & shipping USA/Canada is $60 USD

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#395 2 years ago
Quoted from greatwichjohn:

I just opened a new printed glass. It had a printing error, & would be a good replacement for one missing ink, etc. $99 USD, & shipping USA/Canada is $60 USD

Tempting, how fragile is that ink in the wrinkly spots?

#396 2 years ago

It's stable, looks like sale to New England area.

#397 2 years ago

PM sent

Quoted from greatwichjohn:

I just opened a new printed glass. It had a printing error, & would be a good replacement for one missing ink, etc. $99 USD, & shipping USA/Canada is $60 USD

2 months later
10
#399 2 years ago

This thread has been quiet for too long.

I'm just getting to the home stretch of my Seawitch restoration. Hope to be flipping this beauty again before Christmas!

Cabinet repaint is complete. Playfield is in the final stages of restoration. I'll be getting all the major mechs cleaned and rebuilt over the next week or two.

Can't wait!

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1 month later
#400 2 years ago

Pf from Neo back, and almost complete. Can't wait to drop it in the cabinet.

IMG_20171217_161117072 (resized).jpg

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