(Topic ID: 61134)

Official Seawitch Fan Club ... All Welcome

By DirtySouth

10 years ago


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  • 1,541 posts
  • 153 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Ollulanus
  • Topic is favorited by 66 Pinsiders

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There are 1,541 posts in this topic. You are on page 31 of 31.
#1501 1 year ago

I hope I am posting this correctly.

I have had a Seawitch since 2001. Worked pretty well up until 201X. My kids were playing it and the power supply blew. I left it sitting, but recently replaced the power supply and the caps on the solenoid driver board. Boots right up - seven lights and with a few quarters begins to play!

At some point based on no pattern it will simply stop. The MPU does not reset (no lights) and if there are still games registered, you can simply press the coin door button and play more. Repeat pattern. I am working on a Mata Hari at the moment, so only had time for a few searches. One interesting result said that if the voltage drifts below a certain threshold, the game will reboot. But to me that is a full MPU reboot which I do not see. Any quick thoughts or links? Everything else in the game seems to be working - while its up. I tested all the targets, flippers, pop bumpers, etc.

Thanks in advance.

#1502 1 year ago
Quoted from joelfrancis:

At some point based on no pattern it will simply stop.

Have you re-pinned any of the connectors going to the rectifier board, solenoid driver board, or MPU?

When the game "stops", does it go back to 'attract mode' where it cycles the playfield lights, shows high score and scores from the last game played, etc?

#1503 1 year ago
Quoted from frunch:

Have you re-pinned any of the connectors going to the rectifier board, solenoid driver board, or MPU?
When the game "stops", does it go back to 'attract mode' where it cycles the playfield lights, shows high score and scores from the last game played, etc?

In fact i did repin both the male and female pins of the driver board connectors right side - J3 and J2. 12 volts was open from the PS to the board and then onto the MPU. Once i replaced them the game came up. And yes -- I just tried it again. It goes to attract mode - cycles the playfield lights and shows high scores, etc.

thanks! and of course -- your diagnosis???

#1504 1 year ago
Quoted from joelfrancis:

In fact i did repin both the male and female pins of the driver board connectors right side - J3 and J2. 12 volts was open from the PS to the board and then onto the MPU. Once i replaced them the game came up. And yes -- I just tried it again. It goes to attract mode - cycles the playfield lights and shows high scores, etc.
thanks! and of course -- your diagnosis???

Offhand I'm not sure on the specifics of the circuits involved, but often there's a safety check built in to verify a minimum voltage... usually a capacitor in that line to maintain voltage, if it starts to go bad you'll get what you're seeing when the voltage drops too low. Had a Zac do something similar; only noticed when I put it in my garage for a while in the winter and it was cold, which exacerbated the failing cap.

#1505 1 year ago

Working on a beater Seawitch and looking to change out the faded and worn plastic posts. Any idea what I need to order, different sizes, and where should order from. Not sure if replacements are available or I should use something else.

Thanks
Mike

#1506 1 year ago
Quoted from mikeflan:

Working on a beater Seawitch and looking to change out the faded and worn plastic posts. Any idea what I need to order, different sizes, and where should order from. Not sure if replacements are available or I should use something else.
Thanks
Mike

PBR has the best price. The game uses both tall and short posts. Count them up and add a couple to each count for good measure.

https://www.pbresource.com/posts.html

The sizes you need are the top 2 posts listed. You need them in dark transparent blue.

#1507 1 year ago
Quoted from mikeflan:

looking to change out the faded and worn plastic posts. Any idea what I need to order, different sizes

The only reference I've seen was posted by Mad_Dog_Coin_Op
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/any-seawitch-fans-on-pinside/page/23#post-6367673

My game has most of the plastic posts in the wrong positions and I've been meaning to see if Mad_Dog_Coin_Op list matches the number and sizes I have but haven't had time.

#1508 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

The only reference I've seen was posted by Mad_Dog_Coin_Op
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/any-seawitch-fans-on-pinside/page/23#post-6367673
My game has most of the plastic posts in the wrong positions and I've been meaning to see if Mad_Dog_Coin_Op list matches the number and sizes I have but haven't had time.

I just finished a playfield swap; the short version is you need the tall ones at the slings, short ones at the edge plastics to match the rail height - everywhere else either will work. There's an image mapping the usual positions of tall/short earlier in the thread (might be what you're referring to here). Usually it's talls around that left target bank plastic too, only reason I can figure is it might reduce airballs over there which some say are a problem.

#1509 1 year ago
Quoted from Ollulanus:

I just finished a playfield swap; the short version is you need the tall ones at the slings, short ones at the edge plastics to match the rail height - everywhere else either will work. There's an image mapping the usual positions of tall/short earlier in the thread (might be what you're referring to here). Usually it's talls around that left target bank plastic too, only reason I can figure is it might reduce airballs over there which some say are a problem.

Like you, long posts on the slings. Short everywhere else, except for the spinner.

So, longs on the slings, and longs on the spinner. And short everywhere else.

Quoted from Quench:

The only reference I've seen was posted by Mad_Dog_Coin_Op
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/any-seawitch-fans-on-pinside/page/23#post-6367673
My game has most of the plastic posts in the wrong positions and I've been meaning to see if Mad_Dog_Coin_Op list matches the number and sizes I have but haven't had time.

here is Mad Dog's picture.

Pinside_forum_6367673_0 (resized).jpgPinside_forum_6367673_0 (resized).jpg

#1510 1 year ago

Thanks! I was confused since the game I have has finned posts, which I didn't think was right.

Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

PBR has the best price. The game uses both tall and short posts. Count them up and add a couple to each count for good measure.
https://www.pbresource.com/posts.html
The sizes you need are the top 2 posts listed. You need them in dark transparent blue.

#1511 1 year ago
Quoted from mikeflan:

Thanks! I was confused since the game I have has finned posts, which I didn't think was right.

Here are the Stern faceted posts. In dark blue. Longs and shorts.

https://www.pbresource.com/posts.html

#1512 1 year ago

Hello all - I no longer have my Seawitch. It has found a new home with another Pinsider. I was going through my shop today and found a set of Mantis Metal flat rails / ball guides sitting on a shelf. They are brand new. Anybody interested? $110 and free shipping in the US. Let me know.
seaw-ballguide (resized).jpgseaw-ballguide (resized).jpg

#1513 1 year ago

Does anybody have the small plastic that sits on top of the 4 bank drops in the middle of the PF? A used one is fine as well. Thanks.

#1514 1 year ago
Quoted from Methos:

Does anybody have the small plastic that sits on top of the 4 bank drops in the middle of the PF? A used one is fine as well. Thanks.

I could make you one. It would look OK. Not the best, but OK. Better than nothing. Send me a PM if you have no luck finding one.

#1515 1 year ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Mantis Metal flat rails

I have to ask. What are Mantis flat rails?

#1516 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I have to ask. What are Mantis flat rails?

He’s talking about the metal ball guides. https://mantispinball.com/product/seawitch-ball-guide-set/

3 weeks later
#1517 1 year ago

I found 3 more S deflectors in my shop. They are all yellow. Anybody still need one? PM me if you do.

20230202_235434 (resized).jpg20230202_235434 (resized).jpg20230610_100853 (resized).jpg20230610_100853 (resized).jpg

2 months later
#1518 10 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Hello all - I no longer have my Seawitch. It has found a new home with another Pinsider. I was going through my shop today and found a set of Mantis Metal flat rails / ball guides sitting on a shelf. They are brand new. Anybody interested? $110 and free shipping in the US. Let me know.
[quoted image]

I still have these new Mantis Seawitch metal ball guides. $100 and free shipping in the US. Pm me if interested.

seaw-ballguide-1 (resized).jpgseaw-ballguide-1 (resized).jpg
1 month later
#1519 9 months ago

Anyone have the 6" long metal flap in the shooter lane, looks like mine is chrome plated and the chrome is peeling off.

#1520 9 months ago
Quoted from tomtest:

Anyone have the 6" long metal flap in the shooter lane, looks like mine is chrome plated and the chrome is peeling off.

Cliffy makes them.

http://www.passionforpinball.com/wip.htm

About halfway down the page.

Screen Shot 2023-10-22 at 9.06.14 AM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2023-10-22 at 9.06.14 AM (resized).jpg

3 months later
#1522 5 months ago

This is my very last Seawitch S deflector. I found it hidden away in one of my parts bins. PM me if interested.

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1 week later
#1523 5 months ago

Topper from Xdetroit looks amazing!

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#1524 5 months ago
Quoted from MasterBlaster:

Topper from Xdetroit looks amazing!
[quoted image]

I'd dig just lit waves, but can't really get into putting the name up there, right above the name on the backglass. Not sure why everyone does that, other than it's pretty simple to make happen. Lum Topper? Does look nice, redundancy aside.

#1525 5 months ago
Quoted from Ollulanus:

I'd dig just lit waves, but can't really get into putting the name up there, right above the name on the backglass. Not sure why everyone does that, other than it's pretty simple to make happen. Lum Topper? Does look nice, redundancy aside.

Here is my topper. I will be applying finish that will make her look chrome plated. Ignore the Nine Ball back glass that is in temporary "storage".

IMG_5019 (resized).JPGIMG_5019 (resized).JPG

#1526 5 months ago
Quoted from Ollulanus:

I'd dig just lit waves, but can't really get into putting the name up there, right above the name on the backglass. Not sure why everyone does that, other than it's pretty simple to make happen. Lum Topper? Does look nice, redundancy aside.

I was the same way at first, but the logo and colors are really great. Plus, that’s sorta what Stern does these days with their official toppers. So I figured what the heck. Waves are printed separately from the logo, so hit up Xdetroit if you want waves only. I’m sure they can oblige. The printing is great quality and thick/hefty. Added a Comet strip light today.

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4 months later
#1527 37 days ago

Joining the club tomorrow! I’m trading my Lightning + cash for a nice example with some ball swirl that I’m pretty sure I can mitigate with ME and alcohol - I’ve had good luck on most of my Bally pins.

#1528 37 days ago
Quoted from MasterBlaster:

I was the same way at first, but the logo and colors are really great. Plus, that’s sorta what Stern does these days with their official toppers. So I figured what the heck. Waves are printed separately from the logo, so hit up Xdetroit if you want waves only. I’m sure they can oblige. The printing is great quality and thick/hefty. Added a Comet strip light today. [quoted image][quoted image]

That's a nice looking topper.

#1529 37 days ago

Toppers - bah.

#1530 37 days ago

The SeaWitch font is cool. I wouldn’t use that as a topper, but I could see just hanging it from the wall somewhere.

#1531 36 days ago

Magic Eraser is magical. I lost a tiny bit of paint in a few places, but it’s a good tradeoff.

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#1532 36 days ago

Here’s a section where I got a little too ambitious and lost paint. Not terrible though.

IMG_5285 (resized).jpegIMG_5285 (resized).jpeg

#1533 36 days ago

Very nice. Clear coat over?

#1534 36 days ago
Quoted from joetechbob:

Very nice. Clear coat over?

I usually just do 3 coats of wax, and renew the wax every year or so. Usually works fine, especially with single ball games.

#1535 35 days ago
Quoted from swampfire:

Magic Eraser is magical. I lost a tiny bit of paint in a few places, but it’s a good tradeoff.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That cleaned up nice.

#1536 33 days ago

I’m trying to make this game a little faster for tournaments - it’s way too friendly with the 2 big posts blocking the outlanes. I pulled them out entirely, which is great for something like a state tournament. But I think this works better for a normal tournament. I can always remove the 4 post rubbers if it’s still too long.

EDIT: I watched the PAPA finals that someone posted earlier, and saw that all four of the posts were removed! That would definitely make it challenging, and explains why the top score was just 800k.

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1 month later
#1537 3 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

This is my very last Seawitch S deflector. I found it hidden away in one of my parts bins. PM me if interested.
[quoted image]

If somehow you still have this, I'll take it!

#1538 3 days ago

Does anyone have a template of this? Haven't been playing my girl much because of the ball trap up there on the upper left flipper plastic even with new plastics ball Flys up there and gets stuck 90% of the time. I asked the gentleman on ebay for a trace paid for one but didn't get a response.

Screenshot_20240719_115824_eBay (resized).jpgScreenshot_20240719_115824_eBay (resized).jpgScreenshot_20240719_115828_eBay (resized).jpgScreenshot_20240719_115828_eBay (resized).jpgScreenshot_20240719_120014_eBay (resized).jpgScreenshot_20240719_120014_eBay (resized).jpg
#1539 3 days ago

That shouldn't be hard to make one for you there I think it's odd that so many people have this issue I rarely get it on mine. Do you have the under playfield resistor to drop the voltage to the upper left flipper for weaker shot (this is factory)?

You can also have the end of stroke open a lot earlier to drop the strength and make sure you have the proper coil in there I don't think it's a -600 but it might be.

#1540 2 days ago
Quoted from Kidkaos:

Does anyone have a template of this? Haven't been playing my girl much because of the ball trap up there on the upper left flipper plastic even with new plastics ball Flys up there and gets stuck 90% of the time. I asked the gentleman on ebay for a trace paid for one but didn't get a response.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Sorry, but IMO, the cut on this piece is not correct. The cut needs to be reversed with the plastic sticking out over the flipper to catch/stop the ball at the flipper.

You might reverse its current mounting and see if that changes things for you.

#1541 2 days ago

I'm with slochar - look at what you might adjust on your game. I have literally never seen an airballs on mine. But it should be easy enough to improvise something with a scroll saw or laser cutter if you can't beat it by tweaking the game

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