(Topic ID: 61134)

Official Seawitch Fan Club ... All Welcome

By DirtySouth

9 years ago


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  • 1,413 posts
  • 147 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 20 days ago by cottonm4
  • Topic is favorited by 62 Pinsiders

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#1301 8 months ago
Quoted from mof:

manual and schematics.
Neither has a lamp matrix.
Sorry in Stern-speak it's a "controlled lamp chart"

I made this up, help at all?

50cb8ca2a92a4e263ff226fb7311057b7728ee52 (resized).jpg
#1302 8 months ago

http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Stern_Seawitch_Tech_Chart.pdf

Thanks guys -- the thing I found on pinball rebel already helped, since it lists the SCR's next to each lamp.

Did Stern not make that chart?

2 weeks later
#1303 8 months ago

If you know of anyone looking to join the club please hit me up.

Machine - For Sale
Seawitch Archived
Fully shopped/refurbished - “Selling a fully working, classic Stern Seawitch. Solid cabinet with a few dings and scratches but no touchups. Displays are crisp and bright, backglass looks great for a Seawitch, ...”
2022-07-10
Li, NY
3,400 (OBO)
Archived after: 8 days
Viewed: 869 times
Status: Didn't sell to Pinsider

#1304 8 months ago

Today was a pretty good day. We clearcoat batches of 5 based on the size of the spray booth.

Fantastic!

5B82F84C-E04A-4A19-90E9-AFAA664535A7 (resized).jpeg
#1305 8 months ago
Quoted from FantasticPinball:

Today was a pretty good day. We clearcoat batches of 5 based on the size of the spray booth.
Fantastic!
[quoted image]

What brand are you using for clear coat?

How many coats are you laying down?

#1306 8 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

What brand are you using for clear coat?
How many coats are you laying down?

Three coats 5 minutes apart. Playfield is then sanded with a longboard to ensure it is flat. This is repeated for another three coats and sanded to check. Once the playfield is flat and smooth, the clear is capped with a ceramic clear as the 7th coat.

I will check on the product names on my next visit.

This is careful and labour intensive process that results in a hard durable surface. So far I have 30 playfields completed with no customer complaints. The clearcoat is the most expensive part of the playfield manufacturing process, but the results are…

Fantastic!

22ABDD66-AE84-4554-B359-42FDEB438042 (resized).jpeg4DF72037-50F8-4A8E-A14F-837EA53B2D44 (resized).jpeg5C7040B9-D4DB-433B-960B-9A68BA63EB1A (resized).jpeg747C6740-AC8B-471E-9168-885B2029F88D (resized).jpegB55ADBBA-2099-4648-8A91-10BA1E419746 (resized).jpegD53D14FA-E03D-4000-BCD8-10980FD2E291 (resized).jpegEFB4ADC6-F69B-44A3-80BF-A01EA7E66CAB (resized).jpegF8DBAF5E-0DCE-4B09-9DD6-14DDD4DC4B42 (resized).jpeg

#1307 8 months ago

Awesome! Are yall printing your own artwork yet or still going through GWJ's stock?

#1308 8 months ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Awesome! Are yall printing your own artwork yet or still going through GWJ's stock?

These a GWJ whitewoods. I remastered the art to improve the image quality.

#1309 8 months ago
Quoted from FantasticPinball:

the clear is capped with a ceramic clear as the 7th coat.

What, pray tell, is ceramic clear? I read ceramic clear this and ceramic clear that, but cannot locate any info saying what ceramic clear is.

#1310 8 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

What, pray tell, is ceramic clear? I read ceramic clear this and ceramic clear that, but cannot locate any info saying what ceramic clear is.

These are the clearcoat products we are using.

25239658-3A0D-4EA2-88AD-6B2603295A29 (resized).jpeg6CD27534-0F8F-4A77-941F-A3170D30C6BB (resized).jpeg
#1311 8 months ago

Glad to see all the improvements done by Greg the last year. I had a number of playfields of both Seawitch & Star Gazer with the lenses installed before my financial resources ran out. Doing quality pinball playfields is a extremely hard job to do!

2 weeks later
#1312 7 months ago

Speaking of clear coats, just got this back this morning. So excited to have It back. First step, yoppsicles

20220806_104731 (resized).jpg20220806_104740 (resized).jpg
#1313 7 months ago

Hello I have a galaxy wire harness for the displays+head., For my frankensteined Seawitch. I am adding the pin7 on J1(mpu) add a wire and daisy chain it to 9 pin on 7 digit displays for proper 7 digits. Can someone send me good pictures of the back of the backbox headboard to look at the wiring please? And, I dont know where these 2 cube molex that come from the wiring of the playfield get connected to(see pic)??

Thanks
Stephen
-Edit I found where the wires go to the backbox but I still can't figure out the ice cube molex from the playfield thanks
received_479363273528317 (resized).jpeg

#1314 7 months ago

First Attempt In Learning

The first trial of glass on the printer. I was concerned about how to do the masking layer on the back. We made two glasses and made a mask layer with vinyl. On one glass we used the vinyl as the mask layer. It did not stick very well and I was concerned about temperature shift causing separation. Carrying the glass away from the work table it tapped the doorknob and instantly turned into a bucket of diamonds. Sadness.
The second glass we used the vinyl as a paint mask, and sprayed with adhesion promoter followed by primer. This looks great, but the vinyl was again a fail because it was difficult to weed and then pulled the ink up in some parts.

Added to this, I am questioning if the mask layer is correct. I don’t see that the circles with the player up was included correctly in the block layer. I will need some help from someone with a good original glass to do a comparison.

Some photos of the F.A.I.L..

2FAA2B15-CFF8-47B2-A5DD-C8AAFB53410D (resized).jpeg4256BEBF-2211-42E8-B2D9-0F75E3C004A4 (resized).jpeg59D67C7C-2713-4681-9B9D-29675EB5FD70 (resized).jpeg62872ADB-8608-405F-B372-611AFD720E6E (resized).jpeg7AFC7477-819D-48DA-9673-7F1B4E30F5F0 (resized).jpeg7BB68020-095C-4A66-BB40-D570ACFBCF81 (resized).jpegBCF426AE-8800-4A49-9E6B-E4DF1FCB3827 (resized).jpeg
#1315 7 months ago
Quoted from FantasticPinball:

Added to this, I am questioning if the mask layer is correct. I don’t see that the circles with the player up was included correctly in the block layer. I will need some help from someone with a good original glass to do a comparison.

I can take some in a bit, the player circles are not lit.

#1316 7 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I can take some in a bit, the player circles are not lit.

Please check image for errors.
Fantastic!

RS1073_SeawitchBG300DPI20120312SilverFinal-scr (resized).jpg
#1317 7 months ago
Quoted from SMP14:

Hello I have a galaxy wire harness for the displays+head., For my frankensteined Seawitch. I am adding the pin7 on J1(mpu) add a wire and daisy chain it to 9 pin on 7 digit displays for proper 7 digits. Can someone send me good pictures of the back of the backbox headboard to look at the wiring please? And, I dont know where these 2 cube molex that come from the wiring of the playfield get connected to(see pic)??
Thanks
Stephen
-Edit I found where the wires go to the backbox but I still can't figure out the ice cube molex from the playfield thanks
[quoted image]

My Seawitch has 2 black Molex connectors and 2 white Molex connectors. The problem is the idiots at Stern wired both connector sets up the same way, meaning it is possible to cross plug them. I see why Stern did what it did, but there is a better way.

Onward.

You have one Molex connector ( by my left finger ) and the other Molex (by my thumb).

The one by my finger has some gray wires and an orange wire; This connector is for the back box speciality lights such as High Score, Match, Game Over, etc.

IMG_1068 (resized).jpg

IMG_1070 (resized).jpg

The one by my thumb feeds wiring up to connector J-2 on the SDU.

IMG_1069 (resized).jpg

IMG_1071 (resized).JPG

#1318 7 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

My Seawitch has 2 black Molex connectors and 2 white Molex connectors. The problem is the idiots at Stern wired both connector sets up the same way, meaning it is possible to cross plug them. I see why Stern did what it did, but there is a better way.
Onward.
You have one Molex connector ( by my left finger ) and the other Molex (by my thumb).
The one by my finger has some gray wires and an orange wire; This connector is for the back box speciality lights such as High Score, Match, Game Over, etc.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
The one by my thumb feeds wiring up to connector J-2 on the SDU.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Thanks for the photos. I should of updated that I put the 2 connectors in my picture together, got the game up and running. Everything works besides the upper left flipper in which I ordered a new coil. Here's a pic of what I got going on currently

20220818_003423 (resized).jpg20220818_010033 (resized).jpg
#1319 7 months ago
Quoted from FantasticPinball:

Please check image for errors.
Fantastic![quoted image]

Here are pictures of original Stern backglass with touch ups.

20220819_055009 (resized).jpg20220819_055027 (resized).jpg20220819_055057 (resized).jpg20220819_055116 (resized).jpg
#1320 6 months ago

Seawitch backglass are in stock and ready to go.
$300Cnd includes shipping.

A5C90477-3E55-4596-93C1-AF5785FC3011 (resized).jpeg
2 weeks later
#1321 6 months ago

Starting to work on a Stern Seawitch project. I'm not super familiar with classic Stern games- does this wire jump look correct?

PXL_20220913_021025212 (resized).jpg
#1322 6 months ago
Quoted from truemagoo102:

Starting to work on a Stern Seawitch project. I'm not super familiar with classic Stern games- does this wire jump look correct?
[quoted image]

Assume you are referring to the upper flipper

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Bally/Stern#Stern_Seawitch
6.1.2 Upper Flippers Power Resistor

#1323 6 months ago
Quoted from PinNeu:

Assume you are referring to the upper flipper
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Bally/Stern#Stern_Seawitch
6.1.2 Upper Flippers Power Resistor

That's it! Thank you.

12
#1324 6 months ago

Check out my restored Seawitch apron. Actually, this apron started out as a green and yellow Hot Hand apron and a pinsider with vinyl print capabilities did this for me.

I had a can of a custom mix of blue paint made up and then the vinyl was added over the top.

It is about as good as you will get without having silk screen capabilities.

IMG_1393 copy (resized).jpg

#1325 6 months ago
Quoted from FantasticPinball:

Seawitch backglass are in stock and ready to go.
$300Cnd includes shipping.
[quoted image]

I just picked up a Seawitch that needs a new BG...anything to recommend yours vs CPR other than price? I was going to upgrade my DE SW to back glass while I was shipping, but that's a very reasonable price.

May replace the playfield at some point too, though this one is pretty good other than an absurd amount of ball swirl. You expect to make those for a while, or limited run and done?

#1326 6 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Check out my restored Seawitch apron. Actually, this apron started out as a green and yellow Hot Hand apron and a pinsider with vinyl print capabilities did this for me.
I had a can of a custom mix of blue paint made up and then the vinyl was added over the top.
It is about as good as you will get without having silk screen capabilities.
[quoted image]

Here is a video showing how to install.

#1327 6 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Here is a video showing how to install.

Girl, you fancy. Nice work.

My buddy Bill was astounded that I successfully cleaned and polished my Galaxy apron without ruining it. He said his success rate is very, very low. Heh. I'll have to make an apron, with this same approach, for Quicksilver.

#1328 6 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Here is a video showing how to install.

OK. You have outed yourself. Pinsiders, gdonovan is who did the Seawitch resto for me. Fantastic work !

Here is the restored apron pictured on top to compare to my OG Seawitch apron on bottom. I was lucky that my paint supplier got a very good match on the apron blue. Gdonavon's dark blue graphics is just a little bit darker than original but it is also very close to original.

There is only one flaw with his work that I can see. It is so minor. You will see it or you won't.

Short of having someone step up and actually start silk screening repro Stern aprons, this is the way to go.

Using gdonovan's method will also let me make/restore a Quicksilver apron and a Star Gazer apron.

Good stuff !!

IMG_1395 (resized).JPG

IMG_1396 (resized).JPG

#1329 6 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

OK. You have outed yourself.

Well, people would just PM you asking where you got the vinyl so I thought I'd save you a bunch of PM's flying back and forth.

#1330 6 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I made this up, help at all?
[quoted image]

You are awesome. I just picked one up and am immediately troubleshooting a light issue, just made my life much easier. Thanks!

1 month later
#1331 4 months ago

I posted this on the Stern Electronics thread but it belongs here.

I cooked up something for Seawitch. Have a look.
I have some .125 polycarbonate on hand and the idea just hit me this afternoon. So I went to work.
I cut the poly to match the upper left orbit plastic. I modded a plastic post and attached it to the poly.

I have been playing Seawitch hard this afternoon. This mod works great. There is a little more at the link.

ba9bee2a18d5f11c66433488e882daa7d16c19c6 (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpeg

image (resized).jpeg

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/price-check-1980-sterns-quicksilver-stargazer-seawitch/page/150#post-7227200

See post #7467

#1332 4 months ago

I still have a brand new Seawitch playfield and a brand new Seawitch backglass sitting on the shelf.
I guess the demand for these is complete so there is no need to run another batch?

#1333 4 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I posted this on the Stern Electronics thread but it belongs here.
I cooked up something for Seawitch. Have a look.
I have some .125 polycarbonate on hand and the idea just hit me this afternoon. So I went to work.
I cut the poly to match the upper left orbit plastic. I modded a plastic post and attached it to the poly.
I have been playing Seawitch hard this afternoon. This mod works great. There is a little more at the link.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/price-check-1980-sterns-quicksilver-stargazer-seawitch/page/150#post-7227200
See post #7467

Any chance of getting any video of the gameplay after the adjustment?

Thank you-

#1334 4 months ago
Quoted from FantasticPinball:

I still have a brand new Seawitch playfield and a brand new Seawitch backglass sitting on the shelf.
I guess the demand for these is complete so there is no need to run another batch?

I've been ogling over it for a while.. prob regret not getting it.. just not sure if I'm rich enough, or if my example is poor enough. :/.

Ahh..

#1335 4 months ago
Quoted from koji:

I've been ogling over it for a while.. prob regret not getting it.. just not sure if I'm rich enough, or if my example is poor enough. :/.
Ahh..

After my Nine Ball, I will be putting my Fantasic! Seawitch play field together. I found a buyer for my Greatwich Seawitch play field so I could get this one. It is beautiful. The colors are stunning. If you think you will regret not getting it, then you know what you gotta do.

Live on a diet of hot dogs for 3-4 weeks

#1336 4 months ago
Quoted from koji:

Any chance of getting any video of the gameplay after the adjustment?
Thank you-

I'm not set up to do video currently. I will need a friend to come over and help with camera duty when he gets some free time. I would like to make a movie of this; Thanks for asking. Hopefully in just a few days.

In the meantime, this is a righteous mod for Seawitch. You can make it for a few dollars. It is not permanent if you don't like it.

The difference in game play is a lot, IMO. For the first time, I have made two 3-Loop left hand orbits. And I have too many 2-loop left orbits to count. It makes the orbit accessible.

#1337 4 months ago
Quoted from FantasticPinball:

I still have a brand new Seawitch playfield and a brand new Seawitch backglass sitting on the shelf.
I guess the demand for these is complete so there is no need to run another batch?

I'll need a backglass at some point but trying not to buy stuff too far ahead of projects. I picked up a old populated playfield that is good. I think I remember you FantasticPinball posting a picture of Seawitch plastics somewhere that were not good color matched and I kind of inferred you would be doing those as well?

#1338 4 months ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

I'll need a backglass at some point but trying not to buy stuff too far ahead of projects. I picked up a old populated playfield that is good. I think I remember you FantasticPinball posting a picture of Seawitch plastics somewhere that were not good color matched and I kind of inferred you would be doing those as well?

Yes, I bought CPR Plastics and they are too green, I would buy another set that match better.

#1339 4 months ago
Quoted from SR230CC:

Yes, I bought CPR Plastics and they are too green, I would buy another set that match better.

I have a set of those plastics with the green in them. Not a fan of them.

#1340 4 months ago
Quoted from SR230CC:

Yes, I bought CPR Plastics and they are too green, I would buy another set that match better.

Quoted from cottonm4:

I have a set of those plastics with the green in them. Not a fan of them.

Good to know, thanks.

2 weeks later
#1341 3 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:I posted this on the Stern Electronics thread but it belongs here.
I cooked up something for Seawitch. Have a look.
I have some .125 polycarbonate on hand and the idea just hit me this afternoon. So I went to work.
I cut the poly to match the upper left orbit plastic. I modded a plastic post and attached it to the poly.
I have been playing Seawitch hard this afternoon. This mod works great. There is a little more at the link.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/price-check-1980-sterns-quicksilver-stargazer-seawitch/page/150#post-7227200
See post #7467

I did this today, and I can make the loop a little easier from the right flippers. Mini Post with 1" rubber I think. When I originally did the post location I cheated it in a little than what was marked.

image0 (1) (resized).jpeg
#1342 3 months ago
Quoted from SR230CC:

I did this today, and I can make the loop a little easier from the right flippers. Mini Post with 1" rubber I think. When I originally did the post location I cheated it in a little than what was marked. [quoted image]

Take the next step. Replace your Seawitch J-27-1700 sling shot coils with a pair of J-26-1200 sling coils used on the MPU-100 pins. This will really spice things up. I know some do not like the fast zig-zag action as the slings throw the ball back and forth, but I like the extra speed and momentum the smaller coils provide.

Screen Shot 2022-12-04 at 7.23.13 PM (resized).jpg

Screen Shot 2022-12-04 at 7.24.47 PM (resized).jpg

#1343 3 months ago

Anyone try modern flipper bats on this game? Would it help for making loops, or is this cheating?
My targets brick like crazy, going to get some Swinks V4 in this thing soon.

#1344 3 months ago
Quoted from SR230CC:

Anyone try modern flipper bats on this game?

Someone installed Williams style flipper bats in the two upper positions when I got it my game. Normally I would not stand for wrong bats but to me they make sense on Seawitch with the geometry. I haven't played it with Stern upper bats so am afraid I can't compare for you but it does slightly open the shot from the lower right flipper.
It's something you can try that's easily reversible.
I've even thought of installing a 2" upper left flipper bat.

Following on from what you did above, at some point I'll be trying one of these narrow blue posts on the left riptide entry.

Posts_Slim_03-9357-xx_blue.jpg

#1345 3 months ago
Quoted from SR230CC:

Anyone try modern flipper bats on this game? Would it help for making loops, or is this cheating?

I installed some of those aluminum flippers bats that Pinball Life was selling for awhile. They are cut the the Williams profile with the narrow nose. I did not have Seawitch for very long before I installed these bats so I cannot give you a comparison either.

I guess I am not a purist and if a mod is easily reversible I don't worry about it. I don't consider it cheating: My house my rules. If it is something that allows the game to play "better" and faster, I am onboard since I'm not raking quarters.

Flipper bats are a cheap mod to try. Give them a try. The Williams bats open up both sides of the orbit.

#1346 3 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I installed some of those aluminum flippers bats that Pinball Life was selling for awhile. They are cut the the Williams profile with the narrow nose. I did not have Seawitch for very long before I installed these bats so I cannot give you a comparison either.
I guess I am not a purist and if a mod is easily reversible I don't worry about it. I don't consider it cheating: My house my rules. If it is something that allows the game to play "better" and faster, I am onboard since I'm not raking quarters.
Flipper bats are a cheap mod to try. Give them a try. The Williams bats open up both sides of the orbit.

Yes I am going to try it. Just didn't know if anyone else did. At least the mechs don't have clamps so that actually makes it less risky.
I changed out my R&M to the precision flippers and had to buy new clamps because they don't work great after one time use.

#1347 3 months ago

Has anyone ever tried and been successful with lighting up more of the backglass? It drives me bonkers that half of it just doesn't have bulbs behind it because it's such wonderful art. Just feels like it could (and should) be better.

I'm still mixed on whether or not I want to try to open the orbits any. Part of what makes the game great for me is that those loops are a nightmare to make. It's supposed to be nasty -- and it is.

#1348 3 months ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Has anyone ever tried and been successful with lighting up more of the backglass? It drives me bonkers that half of it just doesn't have bulbs behind it because it's such wonderful art. Just feels like it could (and should) be better.
I'm still mixed on whether or not I want to try to open the orbits any. Part of what makes the game great for me is that those loops are a nightmare to make. It's supposed to be nasty -- and it is.

You can use some of the Martrix lights at Comet. I currently have my Seawitch back glass lit up with them. They are plug n play.

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/lighting-strips

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/matrix-extension-wires

Try my mod for the orbit. It's cheap and easily reversible. Or you can just remove the left orbit plastic, remove the lowest post, and remove the GI light and place a piece of tape over the bulb socket. This will be a little more open than my mod because I have the GI socket blocked with a post---which you would not have.

Or just slide on down here and play mine. I'm planning to have all the guys over for a pin party here pretty quick.

#1349 3 months ago

Hey gang-

Having an issue with my Seawitch. This is a little complicated so here goes:

1) Putting in a coin does not give a credit.
2) In switch test, dropping a coin does activate the correct coin credit switch (Switch 3 I believe)
3) Swapped out another PIA chip in U10 as a shot in the dark: no change.
4) Switched out the MPU with another and the same thing.

Any ideas? Problem came out of nowhere. Would lead me to think it is a wiring issue but I have no idea where to start. In the schematics I noted that one of the coin switches is supposed to have a diode and none of mine have one. But I checked another Seawitch I have and it doesn't have diodes on any of the coin switches either.

Thanks for any info.
Mike

#1350 3 months ago
Quoted from mikeflan:

Hey gang-
Having an issue with my Seawitch. This is a little complicated so here goes:
1) Putting in a coin does not give a credit.
2) In switch test, dropping a coin does activate the correct coin credit switch (Switch 3 I believe)
3) Swapped out another PIA chip in U10 as a shot in the dark: no change.
4) Switched out the MPU with another and the same thing.
Any ideas? Problem came out of nowhere. Would lead me to think it is a wiring issue but I have no idea where to start. In the schematics I noted that one of the coin switches is supposed to have a diode and none of mine have one. But I checked another Seawitch I have and it doesn't have diodes on any of the coin switches either.
Thanks for any info.
Mike

So in switch test you can actuate slot 1,2 and 3 and this registers correctly .. But outside of the test they are not giving the configured credit for any of them?

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