I made this up, help at all?

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http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Stern_Seawitch_Tech_Chart.pdf

Thanks guys -- the thing I found on pinball rebel already helped, since it lists the SCR's next to each lamp.

Did Stern not make that chart?

If you know of anyone looking to join the club please hit me up.

Machine - For Sale

Seawitch Archived

Fully shopped/refurbished - “Selling a fully working, classic Stern Seawitch. Solid cabinet with a few dings and scratches but no touchups. Displays are crisp and bright, backglass looks great for a Seawitch, ...”

2022-07-10

Li, NY

Crispin

3,400 (OBO)

Archived after: 8 days

Viewed: 869 times

Status: Didn't sell to Pinsider

Today was a pretty good day. We clearcoat batches of 5 based on the size of the spray booth.

Fantastic!

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What brand are you using for clear coat?

How many coats are you laying down?

Three coats 5 minutes apart. Playfield is then sanded with a longboard to ensure it is flat. This is repeated for another three coats and sanded to check. Once the playfield is flat and smooth, the clear is capped with a ceramic clear as the 7th coat.

I will check on the product names on my next visit.

This is careful and labour intensive process that results in a hard durable surface. So far I have 30 playfields completed with no customer complaints. The clearcoat is the most expensive part of the playfield manufacturing process, but the results are…

Fantastic!

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Awesome! Are yall printing your own artwork yet or still going through GWJ's stock?

These a GWJ whitewoods. I remastered the art to improve the image quality.

What, pray tell, is ceramic clear? I read ceramic clear this and ceramic clear that, but cannot locate any info saying what ceramic clear is.

These are the clearcoat products we are using.

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Glad to see all the improvements done by Greg the last year. I had a number of playfields of both Seawitch & Star Gazer with the lenses installed before my financial resources ran out. Doing quality pinball playfields is a extremely hard job to do!

Speaking of clear coats, just got this back this morning. So excited to have It back. First step, yoppsicles

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Hello I have a galaxy wire harness for the displays+head., For my frankensteined Seawitch. I am adding the pin7 on J1(mpu) add a wire and daisy chain it to 9 pin on 7 digit displays for proper 7 digits. Can someone send me good pictures of the back of the backbox headboard to look at the wiring please? And, I dont know where these 2 cube molex that come from the wiring of the playfield get connected to(see pic)??

Thanks
Stephen
-Edit I found where the wires go to the backbox but I still can't figure out the ice cube molex from the playfield thanks
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First Attempt In Learning

The first trial of glass on the printer. I was concerned about how to do the masking layer on the back. We made two glasses and made a mask layer with vinyl. On one glass we used the vinyl as the mask layer. It did not stick very well and I was concerned about temperature shift causing separation. Carrying the glass away from the work table it tapped the doorknob and instantly turned into a bucket of diamonds. Sadness.
The second glass we used the vinyl as a paint mask, and sprayed with adhesion promoter followed by primer. This looks great, but the vinyl was again a fail because it was difficult to weed and then pulled the ink up in some parts.

Added to this, I am questioning if the mask layer is correct. I don’t see that the circles with the player up was included correctly in the block layer. I will need some help from someone with a good original glass to do a comparison.

Some photos of the F.A.I.L..

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I can take some in a bit, the player circles are not lit.

Please check image for errors.
Fantastic!

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My Seawitch has 2 black Molex connectors and 2 white Molex connectors. The problem is the idiots at Stern wired both connector sets up the same way, meaning it is possible to cross plug them. I see why Stern did what it did, but there is a better way.

Onward.

You have one Molex connector ( by my left finger ) and the other Molex (by my thumb).

The one by my finger has some gray wires and an orange wire; This connector is for the back box speciality lights such as High Score, Match, Game Over, etc.

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The one by my thumb feeds wiring up to connector J-2 on the SDU.

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Thanks for the photos. I should of updated that I put the 2 connectors in my picture together, got the game up and running. Everything works besides the upper left flipper in which I ordered a new coil. Here's a pic of what I got going on currently

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Here are pictures of original Stern backglass with touch ups.

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Seawitch backglass are in stock and ready to go.
$300Cnd includes shipping.

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Starting to work on a Stern Seawitch project. I'm not super familiar with classic Stern games- does this wire jump look correct?

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Assume you are referring to the upper flipper

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Bally/Stern#Stern_Seawitch
6.1.2 Upper Flippers Power Resistor

That's it! Thank you.

Check out my restored Seawitch apron. Actually, this apron started out as a green and yellow Hot Hand apron and a pinsider with vinyl print capabilities did this for me.

I had a can of a custom mix of blue paint made up and then the vinyl was added over the top.

It is about as good as you will get without having silk screen capabilities.

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I just picked up a Seawitch that needs a new BG...anything to recommend yours vs CPR other than price? I was going to upgrade my DE SW to back glass while I was shipping, but that's a very reasonable price.

May replace the playfield at some point too, though this one is pretty good other than an absurd amount of ball swirl. You expect to make those for a while, or limited run and done?

Here is a video showing how to install.

Girl, you fancy. Nice work.

My buddy Bill was astounded that I successfully cleaned and polished my Galaxy apron without ruining it. He said his success rate is very, very low. Heh. I'll have to make an apron, with this same approach, for Quicksilver.

OK. You have outed yourself. Pinsiders, gdonovan is who did the Seawitch resto for me. Fantastic work !

Here is the restored apron pictured on top to compare to my OG Seawitch apron on bottom. I was lucky that my paint supplier got a very good match on the apron blue. Gdonavon's dark blue graphics is just a little bit darker than original but it is also very close to original.

There is only one flaw with his work that I can see. It is so minor. You will see it or you won't.

Short of having someone step up and actually start silk screening repro Stern aprons, this is the way to go.

Using gdonovan's method will also let me make/restore a Quicksilver apron and a Star Gazer apron.

Good stuff !!

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Well, people would just PM you asking where you got the vinyl so I thought I'd save you a bunch of PM's flying back and forth.

You are awesome. I just picked one up and am immediately troubleshooting a light issue, just made my life much easier. Thanks!

I posted this on the Stern Electronics thread but it belongs here.

I cooked up something for Seawitch. Have a look.
I have some .125 polycarbonate on hand and the idea just hit me this afternoon. So I went to work.
I cut the poly to match the upper left orbit plastic. I modded a plastic post and attached it to the poly.

I have been playing Seawitch hard this afternoon. This mod works great. There is a little more at the link.

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https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/price-check-1980-sterns-quicksilver-stargazer-seawitch/page/150#post-7227200

See post #7467

I still have a brand new Seawitch playfield and a brand new Seawitch backglass sitting on the shelf.
I guess the demand for these is complete so there is no need to run another batch?

Any chance of getting any video of the gameplay after the adjustment?

Thank you-

I've been ogling over it for a while.. prob regret not getting it.. just not sure if I'm rich enough, or if my example is poor enough. :/.

Ahh..

After my Nine Ball, I will be putting my Fantasic! Seawitch play field together. I found a buyer for my Greatwich Seawitch play field so I could get this one. It is beautiful. The colors are stunning. If you think you will regret not getting it, then you know what you gotta do.

Live on a diet of hot dogs for 3-4 weeks

I'm not set up to do video currently. I will need a friend to come over and help with camera duty when he gets some free time. I would like to make a movie of this; Thanks for asking. Hopefully in just a few days.

In the meantime, this is a righteous mod for Seawitch. You can make it for a few dollars. It is not permanent if you don't like it.

The difference in game play is a lot, IMO. For the first time, I have made two 3-Loop left hand orbits. And I have too many 2-loop left orbits to count. It makes the orbit accessible.

I'll need a backglass at some point but trying not to buy stuff too far ahead of projects. I picked up a old populated playfield that is good. I think I remember you FantasticPinball posting a picture of Seawitch plastics somewhere that were not good color matched and I kind of inferred you would be doing those as well?

Yes, I bought CPR Plastics and they are too green, I would buy another set that match better.

I have a set of those plastics with the green in them. Not a fan of them.

Good to know, thanks.

I did this today, and I can make the loop a little easier from the right flippers. Mini Post with 1" rubber I think. When I originally did the post location I cheated it in a little than what was marked.

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Take the next step. Replace your Seawitch J-27-1700 sling shot coils with a pair of J-26-1200 sling coils used on the MPU-100 pins. This will really spice things up. I know some do not like the fast zig-zag action as the slings throw the ball back and forth, but I like the extra speed and momentum the smaller coils provide.

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Anyone try modern flipper bats on this game? Would it help for making loops, or is this cheating?
My targets brick like crazy, going to get some Swinks V4 in this thing soon.

Someone installed Williams style flipper bats in the two upper positions when I got it my game. Normally I would not stand for wrong bats but to me they make sense on Seawitch with the geometry. I haven't played it with Stern upper bats so am afraid I can't compare for you but it does slightly open the shot from the lower right flipper.
It's something you can try that's easily reversible.
I've even thought of installing a 2" upper left flipper bat.

Following on from what you did above, at some point I'll be trying one of these narrow blue posts on the left riptide entry.

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I installed some of those aluminum flippers bats that Pinball Life was selling for awhile. They are cut the the Williams profile with the narrow nose. I did not have Seawitch for very long before I installed these bats so I cannot give you a comparison either.

I guess I am not a purist and if a mod is easily reversible I don't worry about it. I don't consider it cheating: My house my rules. If it is something that allows the game to play "better" and faster, I am onboard since I'm not raking quarters.

Flipper bats are a cheap mod to try. Give them a try. The Williams bats open up both sides of the orbit.

Yes I am going to try it. Just didn't know if anyone else did. At least the mechs don't have clamps so that actually makes it less risky.
I changed out my R&M to the precision flippers and had to buy new clamps because they don't work great after one time use.

Has anyone ever tried and been successful with lighting up more of the backglass? It drives me bonkers that half of it just doesn't have bulbs behind it because it's such wonderful art. Just feels like it could (and should) be better.

I'm still mixed on whether or not I want to try to open the orbits any. Part of what makes the game great for me is that those loops are a nightmare to make. It's supposed to be nasty -- and it is.

You can use some of the Martrix lights at Comet. I currently have my Seawitch back glass lit up with them. They are plug n play.

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/lighting-strips

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/matrix-extension-wires

Try my mod for the orbit. It's cheap and easily reversible. Or you can just remove the left orbit plastic, remove the lowest post, and remove the GI light and place a piece of tape over the bulb socket. This will be a little more open than my mod because I have the GI socket blocked with a post---which you would not have.

Or just slide on down here and play mine. I'm planning to have all the guys over for a pin party here pretty quick.

Hey gang-

Having an issue with my Seawitch. This is a little complicated so here goes:

1) Putting in a coin does not give a credit.
2) In switch test, dropping a coin does activate the correct coin credit switch (Switch 3 I believe)
3) Swapped out another PIA chip in U10 as a shot in the dark: no change.
4) Switched out the MPU with another and the same thing.

Any ideas? Problem came out of nowhere. Would lead me to think it is a wiring issue but I have no idea where to start. In the schematics I noted that one of the coin switches is supposed to have a diode and none of mine have one. But I checked another Seawitch I have and it doesn't have diodes on any of the coin switches either.

Thanks for any info.
Mike

So in switch test you can actuate slot 1,2 and 3 and this registers correctly .. But outside of the test they are not giving the configured credit for any of them?