Used in PF swap

It didn't come with one.

I have a playfield, side rails and backglass. So therefore I'm building a Seawitch.

Well the parts pile is much larger than that now, matter of fact I'm only a few parts short of having everything I need.

My Seawitch coin door is missing the coin return rod. Does anyone have any ideas where I can obtain one? I ran an ad awhile back and didn’t get any leads. Thanks everyone.

Shawn at Third Coast Pinball does make the play field harness for Seawitch. It all depends of what your time is worth.

I talked to him, not doing them at this time. Since I actually enjoy doing wiring work not that much of a hardship for me.

Build thread is up!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/seawitch-from-scratch-allentown-edition

I am hoping someone here has seen this issue. I am finishing a restoration on my Seawitch complete with Greatwich playfield and having some switch issues. When the spinner switch is closed it instantly fires the right slingshot. The right inlane and the left outlane also do not work at all with no scoring or sound on those two switches. I have been looking for a short in the area of the spinner switch and have traced the white with green stripe wire. All but the left outline are on the same row of switches. Any ideas would be appreciated.

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What is switch test mode telling you about these switches?
Does it happen when all drop targets are up? If it only happens when certain drop targets are down, exactly which ones?
If you start game and then remove the J3 cabinet switch harness from the MPU board, does the spinner issue still occur?

Thanks for the reply. Yes it still does the same thing with J3 on the MPU unplugged and with all drop targets up. When you run the switch test and operate the spinner it shows switch 5 which is the spinner and also 13 which is the right slingshot. It has me stumped for sure.

One of those two switches likely has a bad diode or a diode that is shorting out.

Thanks for the reply. I have changed them out already with no effect.

OK. Here come Joe Shadetree. When nothing else works.......

Make a jumper wire with a contact pin crimped on. Install an alligator clip.

** Get your Y-R wire out of the picture.

Remove the Y-R wire at connector A4J2-5. Install your jumper wire. This will disable all 8 switches on row ST4

Since the left outlane is all on its lonesome touch your alligator clip of the left outlane switch and see if that gets it to working. If it gets that switch to work, then possibly something is wrong with your Y-R wire. ??

Next, do the same for the other three switches by touching the right inlane Y-R wire at the right outlane.

If this leaves you still searching, then repeat the above at A4J2-2 B-W wire for r/h slingshot.

And you can also do this for the A4J2-1 W-R wire.

It may or it may not help you, but since you have tried everything else, why not?

I did something similar awhile back. It did not isolate my problem but it got me to looking around and found I had a pinched wire under a piece of metal.

All 4 of your switches that are having problems are hooked to the Y-R wire. I would look at all solder joints at all of the switch connections on the Y-R wire. And, as mentioned above, isolate the Y-R wire by using a jumper.

No promises.

I appreciate the suggestion. I will do it this weekend and report back my findings. I think it is something like what was wrong with yours but I am not having much luck finding it.

Are you sure one isn't backwards installed? If so, the next possible (and likey) problem is the harness. Those wires are getting old and the coverings are beginning to crack. To top things off the classic Sterns have some of the tightest cable ties in the business. Start at the rear bottom of the playfield where the harness leaves the playfield and falls to the bottom of the cabinet. That is where the most stress happens. Cut a few ties and lossen the wire bundel. After that retest. I had a similar problem on my game and that is the area the problem was at.

If someone has a free moment I could use 3 good pictures showing the wiring for the three lamps in front of the drop targets.

I will get one tonight if no one posts one sooner.

I have my wiring bundled up so not sure if this will help you.

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Lower left 3-place drop assy.

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Middle 4-place drop.

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Top drop.

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If you need, I can cut some tie wraps. Or I can tell you which wire colors you are looking at.

Had this on my phone. Does it help?

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When I get off work I'll check! It will certainly narrow down the locations and color codes I have to go through.

The spinner causing other switches on the same row to be sensed is usually a short on the strobe column wire to something like a playfield lamp.
Someone recently who did a playfield swap had a similar spinner issue causing ghosting in their switch matrix. They accidentally had a lamp socket touching a T-nut which their spinner post was screwed to and through the spinner frame electrically connected to the spinner switch.

Try this for me, rotate the spinner 180 degrees so the spinner switch is closed and somehow lock it in that position without you touching it.
Turn the game on and see if the MPU board fails to boot past the 3rd LED flash.

Also carefully inspect the white-red wire on the spinner switch and top rollover button (both on the strobe #0 signal).

I don't know if this will be confusing or if it will help. But I will try to keep you from getting confused with the color codes.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The 3 lines high lighted in blue are lower 3-place drop target.

The 10,000 target is the pink light in front of the target assy. ........ Color Blu-White. (mine is grey)

The increase (bottom) is big white X in front of the drop...........................White/ Yellow

B-1 is the #1 light in front of the drop.....................................................Black/ Yellow. (mine is BLK-White)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

3 lines hi lighted in pink

Increase (middle) .............Big white X...................................................................Pur-B

10,000 pink light..................................................................................................R-Blu (mine is blk/blu)

B-2 is the #2 light................................................................................................Grey. ( mine is BLK-Red)

-----------------------------------------------------------

3 lines in green

Increase........................Big White X.....................................................................O-BLK

B-3 #3 light .....................................................................................................Pur-Blu (mine is BRN-BLK )

10,000 pink light..................................................................................................Blu-WHT (mine is O-G)
--------------------------------------------------------

Sterns drawings are sloppy and poorly written. There is a lack of consistency. Sometimes I feel Stern delegated the drawing work to its junior engineers. When you place a Stern drawing next to a Bally drawing, Stern's slop job is readily apparent.

I ran into this wiring color mis-match from the drawing when I restored my Big Game. IIRC, I had 4 wires on my BG that did not match drawing. For example, if the drawing called for Red-white I would find purple-white. I figure Stern's parts department would run out of a particular color of wire and start substituting different wire colors in an effort to keep the assy. line moving.

Hope I do not completely confuse you.

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That was me. But once I got that fixed, I ran into a drop target that gave me fits. I swapped drops and my last problem went away. I have not yet looked at that set of switches to see what was/is wrong.

Anyone have a nice scan of the spinner? If not I'll just whip something up in Photoshop.

I can scan you one.

I'll try for later today.

Thank you!

TractorDoc Are you still making decals for classic Sterns?

You mean like these?

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I still have some left. When Pinside switched from Paypal to Stripe for payments my Pinside Store was put into maintenance mode. The Pinside shop was a nice way to help other pinheads out with these decals but as it was more or less covering my costs (and not making any profit) I did not want to set up a separate bank account to accept credit card/stripe payments. I still don't mind helping out and will send Pinside the occasional donation but unless a new way evolves to accept payments you'll just have to send me a PM to see what I have.

Hope that makes sense!

Only issue I can think of is I'd have to check dimensions as I'm not using a Stern spinner.

Paint the spinner white, and if the decal is smaller than the spinner then it should blend in?

The spinners, at least Bally, are the same as the stern spinners. The one you showed pics of with the red diamond shape will work fine. Tractor Doc makes some good ones.

I'll scan mine for you if you want, but the one you can buy is the way to go.

Hello All - a fellow Pinsider really wanted me to make him a S ball defector for the upper left flipper. I told him I was out of colored Lexan so he sent me some. I have a little left over. Pm me if interested. $35 shipped in the US. Includes 3 nylon nuts.

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Seawitch S Ball Deflector. Wow - these went quick. I have 3 left. $35 free shipping in the US. Includes 3 nylon nuts. I have no plans to make these again. PM me if you want one

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The S Ball Defectors have all been purchased. If you received a PM you got one. Thanks everybody.

Timing is everything… and unfortunately, it doesn’t often work in our favor.

Recently picked up a Seawitch. Will be ordering a repro backglass shortly, but would really like to swap out the playfield (hence my problem).

Was following the greatwichjohn threads sporadically, but that ship seems to have sailed(?) unfortunately. What is the latest on possible avenues for future Seawitch repro pf availability?

Find someone who wants to sell their Greatwich Seawitch play field. Nobody is doing any talking.

That would certainly be ideal. Though I was guessing (from the thread discussions I read anyway) that everyone was very pleased with the quality and because they took so long to receive that they would probably not be in favor of letting them go.

Anyone here looking to sell one?

Rats. Missed the opportunity for a deflector.

I have a Greatwich playfield with a couple blemishes that he had agreed he would replace for me but he left me hanging. If whoever he sold his business to ends up making them I'll have one for sale but then you wouldn't need mine anyways.

I sort of expected to hear more details about who bought it out and what the new details were by now (2 months ago, right?)

Get a thin piece of clear plastic. I like polycarbonate (lexan) but PETG will work, too. I would not recommend plexiglass; The arcrylic likes to crack.

Cut the plastic to the play field plastic profile and set it underneath.

If you want, you could make your cut so that the clear plastic sits a little further forward of the flipper, but the cut I have has only let me down one time.

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I still have my aluminum deflector I made before I went with the plastic. I'd let it go for $20.00 plus shipping.

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This was not the issue. I blocked the 2 leaf switches on the sling with paper and closed the spinner and it would randomly shotgun, not every time, but most of them.

Also having intermittent issues with the inlanes not scoring unless the ball rolls very slow. I’ve cleaned them with course paper (arcade tickets actually) and it briefly fixs the issue for a day.

AND the left flipper is driving my FAH-KING nuts!!!
I’ve adjusted the hell out of the EOS. The switch stack is brand new, Crispin redid these. Even when I bought it he said it was finicky, and it’s been acting up worse and worse. I’ve cleaned and filed the cabinet switches. They’re not the issue. The right flippers work perfect. The left double flips, it doesn’t fully extend, then it falters and then fully flips. Sometimes the ball hits it and it just gives

How did you bend the Lexan like this? It looks fantastic. Love the color too.

Bending it is easy. I do it by hand one bend at a time with a heat gun. The hard part is cutting the Lexan into the strips. Most saw blades can't do it or makes really rough cuts. It is also too long and thin to just score and snap. My friend has this really fancy scoring saw. He does the cuts for me. To date it is the only thing that works for me.

Can someone be a sport and post pictures of the 5 connectors on the solenoid board so I can confirm what the wiring schematics state? Thanks!

Still chasing my problem on my Seawitch. Can someone send a picture of the wiring on the right slingshot please? I want to make sure mine is correct as part of running this issue down. I appreciate everyones help on here.

Here you go. Hope this helps

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Awesome, thank you!

I'm still plugging away and sometimes a good photo or two really helps.

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I really like his style as a total stucky ball protector which is what my jumpy ass seawitch needs

I also need one.

Helped me get my game going. I had the white and green wire on the coil and not the switch on the right pop bumper. Embarassing to say the least but thank you for posting thr pic.

I recently picked up a Seawitch and started shopping it, replaced all the drop targets and want to replace the 4 stationary target faces, the ones I got from PBR are blue and the original are black.

I think the blue matches but was wondering if the black ones are correct and if there available.

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Black is the correct color. Other than the blue stars from PBR, I don't know where you will get any with stars, of any color, on. Use the blue, if you wish. No one will ever notice. And no one will care.

Wow, I always thought it was Blue. The ones I’ve seen ways had the blue! It looks better with the theme, so go with that!