Thanks, I did. I'm just seeing scans of dirty old cards with staple holes in them. That's useful if you don't have the label at all, but not so useful if you're goal is to print out a clean copy. I'm hoping someone has already done the cleanup work and has a file that can be printed.

In case anybody is interested in mixing their own paint for the cabinet, here’s a formula. All paint for this mix is from the Createx Opaque line. All measurements were taken by weight on a digital kitchen scale. For the dark blue I matched to paint that hasn’t seen the light of day under the side rail. Light blue was matched to clean paint inside the neck. I adjusted my mix dozens of times until my wife and son could not find the test spot of my mix on the sample area. I’m pleased with how it turned out after sealing it with slightly matted 2pac.

Dark blue
• 120ml blue
• 70ml white
• 1ml black

Light blue
• 330ml sky blue
• 5ml blue
• 115ml white
• 1ml light green
• 1ml black

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Edit: The formula listed above wasn’t quite enough in terms of volume, especially the light blue if your painting the inside of the cabinet and head also. I think I wound up using roughly 1.5x what’s listed above.

The final Seawitch test playfield before the 20 production ones going in for printing before xmas. There is a special to a USA customer only for the last one $500 US + $50 US shipping. Looks very good overall but there are some issues. Here is what I see: some dust in finish clear (most are like this one), some minor rippling from sanding upper special to top of 4 green lenses (when populated should be fine, finish is flat), may have a few tiny weep holes on some lenses (edge), some lenses are off mostly near the top & yellow arrows which show a little wood, bottom green 10k is off but looks ok, a tiny triangle shape piece of paper got trapped in the clear above the right flipper. I forgot another set of pictures at the workshop. I boxed the playfield up tonight ready to go out. It has been almost 2 weeks since the playfield got finish coats. A very good new replacement for a blown out game if you are looking for a playfield this year!

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John,

If this play field is still available, consider it SOLD.

I have sent you a PM.

sold thanks. should be more next year

Awesome- yep keep us posted John! You do great work! (Shotty on the next one, btw)

Funny you say that! Before I found that Cliffy made replacements, my plan was to use a Sorcerer ball guide as the original one was beyond repair. I bought two Cliffy replacements just in case. My first one is holding up good so far.

The cliffy material doesn't seem springy enough then to maintain it's shape in all cases, permanent bends or kinks??

This was my fix last year, elegant enough for me, reversible, no new holes, works beautifully!!

Bespoke rigid ball guide for Seawitch.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/any-seawitch-fans-on-pinside/page/15#post-5186990

I Would also be interested in construction

I bought the launch ramp used in The Beatles pin. Then I made an extension to the ball guide. It works like charm.

I have to drill 2 small holes in the shooter lane to attach the ramp.

It works very well.

Here's a link to the one I made. It sometimes catches the ball if you soft plunge, but not so much that a little nudge won't clear it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/any-seawitch-fans-on-pinside/page/19#post-5741230

Can you please post the part number and possibly a link to where it can be purchased?

Go here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/any-seawitch-fans-on-pinside?tu=cottonm4#op. that isolates my posts for you.

Start at post #541. The part number that you seek is in #545. My last post was #572. This all was happening before, or just after The Beatles was release and everybody was trying to visualize it in their heads.

If you have any questions, send me a PM. I had to go through a Stern distributor to get the ramp. I went with the distributor in Dallas.

I'll try to put something in a post soon for anyone wanting to put this together, more detail including some sort of drawing/diagram. It is a pretty simple 2 part diverter (with a spring) that will attach with the original 2 screws and require no other mods, as well as minimalist and not changing the games overall appearance.

Each of the 2 finished parts has a welding element to it's construction, so as long you can get some basic TIG welding done you should be laughing. Base part consists of Mounting plate and 3/16" SS rod pivot pin, fabricated together. Diverter consists of 3/16" SS rod for the rail, 1/16" stock for spring eyelet, and 3/16" tube as the hinge. Dimensions were fine tuned between clearance and operation, the first prototype was only successful in that it allowed the functional dimensions to be fine tuned (it did hang up the ball, and required a bit of refinement). It is impossible for the now refined diverter to wedge the ball against the wood rail. Works nicer than I could have ever hoped for, and I though pretty straightforward. Best part is no more bouncy springy orbits.... so the Spinner shot Actually Works!!! . Now we can Really Rip that sucker!!

I had it made in a few hours of messing about, and did not end up needing to even use the lathe at all. TIG welding is a requirement though, and bending/fabrication.

Anyone prepaid or have shown interest in buying a new playfield please contact me. Trying to get out playfields before the next 32 cnc ones go into production the end of the month. Some guys prepaid are waiting for these with trans blue lenses I had made the end of last year from Northern Precision Plastics. I will remind any new people that all my playfields will be going to $700 US + $50 US shipping to USA. So if you want to lock in a lower price contact me before the end of the month! Any new customers for Star Gazer the deadline was the 15th & has ended. Working on them now, 6 of 24 likely have buyers. Anyone with a Big Game the art is being worked on for Spring Production.

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Just over 24 hours to lock into $600 US price for Seawitch. I might have a couple another $50 off with minor issues also.

Seawitch Game play question.
With bottom right flipper can the loop shot be made ?

Yes, but it’s tight!

I have a few discount Seawitch playfields available now. PM me for details. The last 5 of the first 20 production playfields were finished clear on Friday. I start production on the next 32 cut playfields the end of this week.

VERY tight...need a little luck on your side!

Get a Williams flipper with a narrow nose or that Williams Lightning flipper.

Can that shot be made repeatable Williams flipper?

Or is a 1/100 times shot?

Are Williams flippers more fun than classic stern flipper with regards to game play?

From the lower right flipper, the ball will go around the orbit and either you whack it with the upper right flipper or let the ball come down to the lower left flipper.

All the narrow tipped Williams flipper does is gets out of your way for the lower right flipper shot.

I can't answer that. My Seawitch was not playable until I shopped it and at that time, I added those Pinball Life aluminum bats that are Williams style. I adjust them in their flipper bushings so that the front side of the flipper is on the same plane a Stern flipper would be on.

I have the aluminum bats on all my pins.

Switched all flipper bats to Williams and dialed in game.
Now I can make
Lower left flipper around loop
Upper right flipper around loop
Sometimes make lower right flipper around loop @ 1/10 tries.

Seawitch is a lot more fun to play when able to make loop.

cottonm4 how do aluminum bats differ than plastic, greater transfer of energy to ball?

I cannot tell you that you will see any performance improvements. However, my opinion is they do not cost you any performance. I bought a pair because I thought they looked cool and also would not break. And if I get tired of looking at the aluminum, I can paint them any color I want.

Anyway, I have them on all my pins except for Munsters and Bog Game. Munsters will remain and unmodded original. As soon as I can buy some more, Big Game will get a set---at $15 each it will be---as soon as I can afford them

Looking at a darker blue version for Seawitch & Star Gazer. If you have access to color swatches to give me a idea of what shade you think it would be. At the moment there are 8 Seawitch playfields available for sale.

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Posted our really nice Seawitch in Marketplace.

SOLD!

Machine - For Sale

Seawitch Archived

Partially restored (almost original) - “Changing our collection up a bit so posting our really nice Stern Seawitch for sale. It's a very clean example and has been gone through. Has new Alltek MPU and power supply has be...”

2021-02-25

Greenville, NC

Tokkentakker

3,100

Archived after: 18 days

Viewed: 730 times

Status: Sold (amount private)

Contributed to Pinside

Got positive feedback

Hey Seawitch owners, I just bought a Seawitch and I’m in the process of fixing her up. I see two plastic sets available. One is digitally printed and the other is a legacy silkscreen version. Which one looks better in person? I’ve heard that the silkscreen version is brighter but that’s from the vendors trying to sell them. I’m looking for owner feedback.

Thanks in advance.

Check out the blue on the plastics. There’s blue on the CPR plastics that should be white.

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Are you sure that is a CPR plastic? It looks drastically different then the one on their website.

I have a set of those blue plastics, too. They came with my Seawitch that I bought in 2016. I assumed that they are CPR. I am not aware of any other shop making Seawitch plastics. That don't look right next to the play field.

Where do you see two sets available, please?

Some websites (like Marco) are selling a digitally printed version while others are selling the 8 color silkscreened version CPR did years ago. The CPR ones are more expensive but I’m really interested it which one looks better in person.

I love my Seawitch but the ghosting in the LEDs is the worst I have ever seen. My game has an OEM light board with an anti-flicker kit installed. The flicker is under control but the ghosting isn’t. I think I’m just going to buy a new light board and call it good. Is anyone else having or had the same issue with this title?

These games don't have a lamp matrix so ghosting isn't an artifact of using standard LEDs with the way lamps are illuminated on this architecture, only flickering is. You have some other problem. Are you getting wrong lamps illuminating?

70% of my controlled LEDs are not turning off. They sit idle at 50% brightness and 100% when activated. Old school bulbs work flawlessly. I had other classic Bally and Stern games do this but this one is extreme. Tons of resistors have been added to my sockets by the previous owner. My guess is they were trying to stop the ghosting on the cheap. I’m hopeful I can just remove the resistors, replace the light board and call it good.

This sounds like the wire from the anti-flicker boards is not making contact with the 6V feature lamp supply voltage. What voltage do you measure at the hookup wire on the anti-flicker boards? Where do you have this wire hooked up to in the game?

Here is the original Seawitch play field and original plastic.

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Here is the replacement plastic.

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Here are both sitting on top of a new play field. Pick your poison.

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Here is what Marco shows in its ad. But is it what Marco will ship?

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I’ll check the voltages when I get home but I know I connected to the correct wire in my backbox. I’m also going to remove all the resistors from my sockets. It looks awful and should no longer be needed. I’ll report back with the outcome. Thanks for the help.

Well now I’m leaning towards the Marco plastics. Maybe I’ll just fall on the sword and buy a set. Has any else purchased the Marco plastics?

Let us know what Marco sends out, please?

I did a fun thing on my seawitch last week, I hooked up a guitar hero controller with individual flipper control. It was super fun!
https://clips.twitch.tv/CleanLivelyChimpanzeeDendiFace-Hi5wfulyWBmTzFxF
We also did some games on it with a DDR mat controller, the dance pad is... Much more difficult.

The controller just switches a bank of relays that have the N.O. switches hooked up to the flipper button switches, I also insulated the N.O. EOS on the lower flippers and did some creative wiring in order to have full flipper "staging". No physical alterations were made to the machine.

Well my nasty ghosting problem has been solved. I started to cut off my no longer needed resistors that were added to every controlled light. The person that did this to my game was pretty sloppy. They didn’t trim the extra wire. I believe one of those extra wires was touching my GI power by a slingshot. The resistors are gone and so is my ghosting. This makes me very happy. Thanks for the help.

I need a backglass. There are basically 3 options available. CPR, Marco from an unknown new supplier and BGresto. Anybody buy one of these? Are you happy with it? Please let me know your thoughts on the subject.

talk with GREATWICHJOHN, I'm very happy with the BG I got from him.

My first choice also but he doesn't have any. I just bought a playfield from him.