Disassemble the door and soak the door and trim in evaporust. Paint the door, trim and bolts in silvertone hammer spray paint. Pinball Resource may have a coin reject button, or you can try Marcos. Buy new coin door large square decal and a credit button decal. You door will look brand new.

Wow. Thank you! That’s great advice. Will do it.

With the right tools and some sheet metal skills, that coin door can be fixed so don't throw it away.

That coin door looks better than most I see for sale used. Does it close smoothly? The bottom right edge looks like someone tried to pry it open at some point.

I’m actually picking it up Thursday evening, so I’m just working ahead. With that being said, I believe it closes okay. It’s got a relatively clean playfield. Cabinet is solid. Repro backglass. Price is right. I’m really excited it get it.

How bad is the inside of that door? I need all the framework to hold the coin mechs since an op made it unable to be competition. If you get one I might buy some of the scraps tgat are missing from mine if you are interested.

I’ll have coin door guts (and a face that’s got a padlock hasp on it) available as soon as I finish putting mine back together for anyone who’s interested.

Nit gonna jump in front of him if he needs it but here is what I have. Worst part is the front piece that holds the coin acceptors was riveted to hold a blank piece of sheet metal blocking coin entrances. I think I might need the harness to, or rewire the other 2 coin switches.

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You can dremel out those pop rivets from the other side. The chutes and everything else might be a bit harder to source, but you might be able to trade the whole door with someone who has no intention of ever routing their classic stern and would take a few bucks instead.

I’m picking the Seawitch up tomorrow evening and will send pics of the inside of the door. I’ll circle back to everyone then - Pinheadpierre and Tomass.

Thanks everyone. Much appreciated.

Chutes https://www.shapeways.com/product/WV6TYWTKB/80-s-stern-ss-pinball-coin-plate-chute?optionId=43403498&li=shops

I bought a couple of these for ny F2K and they fit perfectly.

Corrected the volume pot hack (i mean it worked but wasn’t pretty) on Seawitch today. JT Amusements sent me an OEM pot which worked perfect

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I want your apron. it looks 10x nicer than mine

Finally got around cleaning up a drop target bank. I had a few new drops in stock, gotta wait for the rest to come in this week.

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I also did this today. Robbed an atx power supply from an old pc and fashioned my very own bench top board tester. This thing had a shit ton of wires so i opened it up and cut out what i didn’t need, and at the same time grounded the green wire that used to run to the power button so i can just use the on/off switch for it now. I did this inside the housing so you can’t even see it.

I kept enough wires to create two harnesses with 4 pin molex plugs on them. I doubled up each source (5V, 12V and ground) because why not. I still cut out a bazillion wires lol. One harness has -12V also.

What i plan to do next is create “adaptors” for each type of board i work on. I just need to figure out which voltage goes to which pins on the mpu (or whatever) and build the new connectors accordingly. I know i can use alligator clips to the test points but i like this way better.

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I’m just circling back on our discussion regarding the coin door. I picked up the pin yesterday and the coin door is better than expected. I’ll clean it up a bit and one of the coin mechs needs to be refastened, but I’m very happy with it. Thanks everyone for the advice and offers.

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What are the original flipper band colors for a Seawitch? I’m looking at the flyer online and it seems like yellow for the upper and blue on the lower. The Marco rubber set comes with all red. If anyone knows for sure, I’d really appreciate some definitive clarification. Thank you!

Great question - following. I always thought all 4 were yellow based on a thread of people looking for yellow rubbers for it (pinfest thread i think). This is what my Seawitch came with also. So i replaced with all yellow. but what do i know lol.

I’ve tried to do the research, but definitely no clear answer. I’ll see if I hear from anyone else, but I’m guessing it is all blue, all yellow or maybe a combination of the two. While I have your attention, are these the right acorn nuts for a Seawitch? I put in a order for some that ended up being too big. I guess I’m not that seasoned enough to just look at the post and know the size. Thanks in advance.

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Mine had those white rubber things that just slip over the posts. My F2K uses the metal acorn nuts tho.

I don't believe back in the day that you could get flipper rubbers that were anything other than Red or Yellow... never saw Blue out in the wild.

I mostly use red for everything anyway, ultimately it doesn't make that much difference.

I’m guessing yellow, but it really doesn’t matter. Every color under the sun is available now. Pick a color you like rather than submitting to the palette limitations of the time of original production.

So I finally got all the drop target banks cleaned up with new targets. 7 of them were proper, the 4 in the middle were not. But didnt think i’d like 4 really white ones and 7 clean but not so white ones. So they all are new now.

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Heres what they all looked like coming out. The before pics didn’t quite depict just how dirty they were.

I didn’t go too nuts. As in i wasn’t trying to remove every single scratch. Just get back to the factory shine with a bit of elbow grease and some Mothers.

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I should of listened to Cotton. They look good and function great, but make all the other mechs look worse than before. Guess i’m doing those next...

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May I suggest that you protect your new targets with a strip of mylar? You need not cover the entire face. A 3/8"or 1/2" strip of mylar covering the ball travel area will shlep to keep them looking newer and cleaner for longer.

You have them all shined up. Now take the next step and spray a light coat of clear Rustoleum to keep them somewhat shiny. They will start dulling out and pick up a white cloudy hue if not hit with a little bit of clear. But then again, it does not really matter unless you are going to be entering play fields propped up beauty contests.

If you have not done so, you should wax the land that the targets set on. If you wax the land and the landing points on the targets, they will drop like rocks.

What Mothers product did you use? The cleaning wax?

I’d recommend using Blitz wax. https://www.pinballlife.com/search.html?Search=Blitz

I have Blitz wax that I use for playfields, but does that also work to clean the metal parts of the drop target mech? I apologize if these are basic questions but I was thinking I should clean the drop targets like Completist did.

For cleaning metal parts up:

Simple Green

https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=simple+green&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

Mean Green

https://www.google.com/search?q=mean++green&client=safari&rls=en&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwia-MTm7p_rAhVS7qwKHYnpAkQQ_AUoAXoECA4QAw&biw=1280&bih=963

( mean green is strong stuff. Use only with rubber gloves )

Zep Industrial Purple

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/zep-commercial-industrial-purple-cleaner-degreaser-concentrate-128-oz

( use rubber gloves. Wear a mask or hold your breath. )

Purple Power

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Purple-Power-1-Gal-Cleaner-Degreaser-100539322/308623047?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D28I-G-D28I-28_4_CLEANING-MULTI-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-BASE_SHP&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D28I-G-D28I-28_4_CLEANING-MULTI-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-BASE_SHP-71700000041074444-58700005459736589-92700049810295128&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7cKNlvCf6wIVzcDACh0ltA2LEAQYASABEgKVcvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

For best action, let the parts soak for awhile.

Other cleaners will probably work just as well. These are the ones I am familiar with.

If you are wanting real shiny metal, get a buffer machine.

No i just used the Mag and Aluminum polish at the end. Most of the work was the Tumbler and a scotchbrite flap wheel for the larger parts.

I thought i had some spray clear on hand but all i had was Triple Thick. When i moved the moving company wouldnt allow any type of flammables or paints. Which is a bummer as i lost all my pinball goodies incl my Molotow paints for F2K stencil job

As for waxing the land for the drops i had never heard that tip. So thats what i’ll do next. I think i have some mylar i can use for the drop target faces also thanks Cotton.

Triple Thick will work. All it is is clear with more solids in the mix.

Just got this in from greatwichjohn and it looks really good!

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There is a nice new Seawitch playfield with about 5 lenses off for alignment. Likely one of the early tests to dial in cnc & art. $400 US shipped to USA. If you have a beater this is a great deal!

So I've replaced the mpu with an alltek and I am still seeing 22's instead of a 0 at boot. Any ideas champions?

Disconnect all but one of the displays. If it still happens, swap that last display for another. If it still happens, you have an open circuit on the display BCD data 1 signal from the MPU board at pin 26 of J1 to all the displays at pin 18. This is a Blue-White wire that gets daisy chained from one display to another on pin 18. More likely you have a bad crimp terminal connection at the source MPU board pin 26 of connector J1.

Those stupid pal nuts are garbage throw them in the trash. Just use the nylon or rubber ones. Those pieces of garbage always grab the stud and pull the whole thing out. I hate them so passionately it’s difficult to put into words.

Mine are all blue but I bought an original playfield that was junked and it was all yellow. Probably just whatever Stern got a good deal on at the time.

Many thanks for that I owe you a beer. It was pin 26 on the connector after all.

Next question is there any modifications to be done to make the loop shot more accessible?

Someone (probably earlier in this thread) made a solid gate for the right that flips in and out so you can get a more solid shot on it.

I don't think the loop shot is the money shot in this game anyway, it's max 22k. Max the bonus and milk the drops for the 39k intead.

I don't own a Seawitch but if I did, I'd probably move the left post a touch as mentioned here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/any-seawitch-fans-on-pinside/page/16#post-5451065
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/any-seawitch-fans-on-pinside/page/16#post-5455268

And also experiment with changing that upper left flipper for a 2 inch bat.

Hey guys, I've only been in the hobby a few years now. I have only had Williams system 11's and WPC machines up to this point. I've been offered a Sea Witch that doesn't boot but appears to be in nice shape. The only thing I know is he has had it since the 80's and a couple years ago it would boot if he turned it on and off quickly. What is the most you guys would pay for a non working Witch in today's market? Any things I should be looking for on early Stern's? I'm going to go look at it Tuesday night and want to be prepared as possible. Thanks.

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Show pics of the boards.

This is all I have at the moment. I'm going to assume there is acid damage since he seemed surprised when I asked about batteries.

I have a new Seawitch glass with a tiny chip in the corner before the glass was tempered. It will be hidden with trim & for some reason it fails over the next number of years I will replace it free! Offer only to a USA customer, $200 US + $50 US shipping. You save $75 US. It is boxed & ready to go out. Delivery is about a week UPS ground.

Glass is going out for a 3-4 year old one as a free warranty replacement on me. California bound.

For those of you looking for a replacement classic Stern standard width (non-widebody) cabinet:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/106602

that's pretty cool!

Does anyone have clean copies of the various warning labels in the cabinet and head that I could use to print new ones?

Have you checked here?
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/